Tuesday, September 30, 2014

NYFF52 Day 5: Incredible Forgiveness, Boasting and Denial in 'The Look of Silence'; 'Beloved Sisters' and the Man Who Loves Them Both

Adi Kukun speaks with a man responsible for the killings of many in "The Look of Silence." Photo courtesy of Participant Media.

HEADS UP: Picking up where we left off last year, but expanding a tad (OK, quite a bit but still pithy), we will limit comments about New York Film Festival films to 200 or less. And ... Lights. Camera. ACTION! ...

WHEN the final credits roll, a good deal of them anonymous, one can't but shake one's head. The audacity of humankind, the sheer chutzpah.

In “The Look of Silence,” Joshua Oppenheimer's companion piece to the Oscar-nominated “The Act of Killing,” Adi Kukun speaks with some of the people responsible for the killing of his brother and around a million others during a communist purge in 1960s Indonesia.

The documentary has its U.S. premiere today at The 52nd New York Film Festival.

Perpetrators in “The Look of Silence” recount with glee their exploits to AK's face and to JO's camera. One man drank the blood of his victims. Another recounts slitting throats.

Yet another remembers fondly how they cut off penises. It is as riveting as it is disgusting. (See video below of JO in Venice, explaining how he filmed).

At the time the military, a regime that is still in power, overthrew the government and denounced the opposition as communists, using that excuse to kill indiscriminately.

When the perpetrators and/or their families learn the identity of AK, most deny, claim ignorance or try to justify. It is a sad, sorry business. One woman, the daughter of the “vampire,” is shocked, shamed to learn of her father's atrocity.

She apologizes. Perhaps, like the Oscar recognition of “The Act of Killing,” a sign that a reckoning may yet come. An opportunity for those who perpetrated and those who witnessed a national crime to speak freely.

In another word, a reconciliation.

“Beautiful” is the first word that comes to mind during the final credits of “Beloved Sisters.”

Dominik Graf's drama, in its North American premiere today, is based on the relationship between German poet Friedrich Schiller and the von Lengefeld sisters, Charlotte and Caroline. (See video below).

Indeed, it is a love story or a story about the power of love, this gorgeous, set piece with the German landscape as its backdrop. One that would fit perfectly on “Masterpiece Theatre” if it weren't on the large screen. At nearly three hours, not one boring moment.

“Beloved Sisters” is a delicacy, every morsel of which is a little orgasmic.

Visit http://www.filmlinc.com/nyff2014 to learn more about The 52nd New York Film Festival, including tickets and showtimes.

Monday, September 29, 2014

NYFF52 Day 4: In 'The Blue Room,' Possibly Where Murder Was Planned; Earlier Though, Mathieu Amalric Is in 'Dialogues'

Stéphanie Cléau and Mathieu Almaric are lovers who rendevous in "The Blue Room / "La Chambre Bleue." Photo courtesy of the New York Film Festival.

HEADS UP: Picking up where we left off last year, but expanding a tad (OK, quite a bit but still pithy), we will limit comments about New York Film Festival films to 200 or less. And ... Lights. Camera. ACTION! ...

“YOU are guilty if you are innocent, especially innocent people are guilty."

Mathieu Almaric asserted as much about noir film characters earlier this afternoon during a press conference following the screening of his noir film in which he directed himself and others.

Did he give away the central question in “The Blue Room" / "La Chambre Bleue?" Based on a Georges Simenon novel, the film makes its North American premiere tonight at The 52nd New York Film Festival.

“The Blue Room,” also starring MA's nonactor, real-life girlfriend (Stéphanie Cléau), who also shares a screenwriter credit with him, is a laconic tale about an extramarital affair that may have spawned the murder of a spouse. (See video below).

It nevertheless builds the suspense to the end, leaving the viewer to work out where guilt actually resides. It is reminiscent of old Hollywood noirs.

And for good reason, MA was inspired by RKO Radio Pictures, films “made on small budget; shot in 95 minutes.”

Elsewhere, MA is one side of the conversation this evening in the “HBO Directors Dialogues.”

Visit http://www.filmlinc.com/nyff2014 to learn more about The 52nd New York Film Festival, including tickets and showtimes.

Sunday, September 28, 2014

NYFF52 Day 3: A Surprise in 'Le Retour'; 'Maps to the Stars,' or What Was Julianne Moore Thinking?; In ' '71,' Belfast Is No Picnic

Africans in France are just people, like anybody else, in "The Return /"Le Retour." Photos courtesy of the New York Film Festival.

HEADS UP: Picking up where we left off last year, but expanding a tad (OK, quite a bit but still pithy), we will limit comments about New York Film Festival films to 200 or less. And ... Lights. Camera. ACTION! ...

“THE Return" (“Le Retour”) is mainly remarkable because it depicts Africans in France as something other than downtrodden refugees to be pitied.

Yohann Kouam's film is among those on the Shorts Program 2 premiering today at The 52nd New York Film Festival.

An older brother is clearly doing something positive with his life, judging by the new suit of clothes he has bought his loving, doting father. Another signifier of his upward mobility is the degree to which his little brother idolizes him.

That is, until the teen discover his big secret.

Elsewhere today, David Cronenberg's “Maps to the Stars" is in its final U.S. premiere screening. This story, with incest as a lietmotif, uses as a backdrop the cult of fame in 21st century Hollywood to explore omnipresent dysfunction. (See video below).

DC could have had a fine film instead of a coarse, gross, myopic mess. The acting is not the problem among a cast that includes John Cusack and Mia Wasikowska. The director falters in attempting to tell too many stories, diluting the whole.

Also, one can't but wonder why an actress of the caliber of Julianne Moore degrades herself so in "Maps to the Stars." Did she do it to work in a DC film?

Not challenged with staying focused is “'71,” Yann Demange's engaging thriller set in that year in Belfast. It also has the second of its two New York premiere screenings today.

A young UK recruit (Jack O’Connell) is shipped off to Northern Ireland to help keep the peace.

Gary (Jack O’Connell) has no way out in "'71."

He gets much worse troubles than he bargained for when a riot breaks out after what is supposed to be a routine extraction. Beaten, chased and unarmed, he is trapped behind enemy lines, not knowing how to get out or whom to trust. His fear is palpable.

A kindly former soldier tells him the facts of life, however, as he tends his wounds. “They don't care about us. We're just a piece of meat.”

Visit http://www.filmlinc.com/nyff2014 to learn more about The 52nd New York Film Festival, including tickets and showtimes.

Saturday, September 27, 2014

NYFF52 Day 2:'Misunderstood' Is Little Aria; Presenting a Genius Who Has Found That Life-Craft Balance in 'Seymour: An Introduction'

Giulia Salerno as Aria in "Misunderstood." Photo courtesy of New York Film Festival.

HEADS UP: Picking up where we left off last year, but expanding a tad (OK, quite a bit but still pithy), we will limit comments about New York Film Festival films to 200 or less. And ... Lights. Camera. ACTION! ...

PREPUBESCENT Aria (Giulia Salerno) is a middle child of sorts in “Misunderstood.”

Her narcissistic parents, a concert pianist and actor, both have a daughter with other partners. They hate each other and too often project that emotion onto their youngest child, kicking her out of their respective apartments at the slightest provocation.

Aria takes this toggling in stride as she packs her few belongings, including a black cat, encountering various inappropriate adventures along the streets of Rome.

By turns, tender, hopeful and deeply disturbing, Asia Aria Maria Vittoria Rossa Argento's autobiographical “Misunderstood” makes its North American debut today at The 52nd New York Film Festival.

On a completely differenet note and also premiering today at NYFF is “Seymour: An Introduction.”

This homage and master class in one was spawned by a meeting at a dinner party of first-time director Ethan Hawke and the great pianist and piano teacher Seymour Bernstein. (See video below).

The actor sought advice from the pianist about stage fright, resulting in this thoroughly engaging portrait. EH wisely gets out of the way and simply lets SB teach and talk. And play.

That Beethoven in the closing minutes has the beauty and power to make a grown man (and woman) cry.

Visit http://www.filmlinc.com/nyff2014 to learn more about The 52nd New York Film Festival, including tickets and showtimes.

Friday, September 26, 2014

NYFF52: 'Gone Girl,' Drinks w/R. Gere, Ming's Dynasty and a Huge Spotlight on Mankiewicz ... It's Going to Be a Bumpy (17) Night(s)!

Gene Tierney as the married lady of the title in "The Ghost and Mrs. Muir." Photos courtesy of New York Film Festival.

DID he or didn't he? In essence, that is the premise of “Gone Girl.”

The ''he” is Nick Dunne (Ben Affleck). And the question that needs an answer is whether he killed his wife, Amy (Rosamund Pike).

“Gone Girl” chronicles the relationship of the two unemployed writers Dunne and the investigation into and media circus surrounding the disappearance of Amy.

The film has its world premiere this evening as the opener of The 52nd New York Film Festival (through 12 Oct.) It opens in U.S. theaters on 3 Oct. Scuttlebutt has it that "Gone Girl," based on the Gillian Flynn best-seller, is a winner.

After the last two opening-night films, perhaps NYFF has on its hand one that won't be so polarizing between the “loved it” and “hated it” camps. Views on last year's “Captain Phillips” were decidedly split between the two sides.

One point of interest about “Gone Girl,” for which GF also wrote the screenplay, is that it won't be structured like the book. The novelist, who once upon a time was herself an unemployed writer, won praise for her detours from the traditional ways suspense plays out and quirky narration.

A tiger lives in Harlem but not in a zoo in “Ming of Harlem: Twenty One Storeys in the Air.”

Another point of interest is that Reese Witherspoon is one of the film's producers. (See trailer above). She is also one of the stars of NYFF centerpiece, "Inherent Vice." Paul Thomas Anderson's lurid expose on the Los Angeles drug scene of the '70s is adapted from a Thomas Pynchon novel, a first. It has its world premiere on 4 Oct.

Richard Gere may have a lot to jaw about on the evening of 8 Oct. over cocktails and dinner, including "Time Out of Mind."

Speaking of actor-producers, Richard Gere wears the two hats for “Time Out of Mind,” which will makes its U.S. premiere at NYFF on 5 Oct. The film explores homelessness, and the glamorous RG stars as a homeless man.

Giving good support is Ben Vereen in a project that homeless advocate (who knew?!) RG said came to him in the '80s. The actor also hangs out for "An Evening With ..." (one of NYFF's "Special Events") over cocktails and dinner.

Other "Special Events" and "Revivals" run to a 30th anniversary screening of “This Is Spinal Tap” and the beautifully restored “The Color of Pomegranates/Sayat Nova.”

Meanwhile, the “NYFF Talks” free series (NYFF Live and HBO Directors Dialogues) features Mike Leigh, Mathieu Amalric and others.

As expected, NYFF has its usual fare of shorts (“In August”/ “En Août” is a rich, amuse-bouche). Of course, documentaries, too, from the delightful to the disturbing (Ethan Hawke's directorial debut, “Seymour: An Introduction,” “The Look of Silence”).

On the menu as well is the “Projections” series, addressing experimental and innovative modes of filmmaking. One exhibit is Phillip Warnell's “Ming of Harlem: Twenty One Storeys in the Air”).

A wonderful (and perhaps final?) joy ride in "In August / "En Août."

The NYFF closing film (11 Oct.) is “Birdman or The Unexpected Virtue of Ignorance.” It stars Michael Keaton as a former action hero who is trying to stage an adaptation of a Raymond Carver work, while dealing with personalities, peccadilloes and pathos worthy of a Shakepearean comedy. The film opens nationally on 17 Oct.

Before it closes NYFF pays homage to a true icon in the retrospective, “Joseph L. Mankiewicz: The Essential Iconoclast." In short, 21 films. All classics or near classics.

Seymour Bernstein at the piano in "Seymour: An Introduction."

Consider: “Cleopatra,” “The Ghost and Mrs. Muir,” “Guys and Dolls,” “Julius Caesar,” “A Letter to Three Wives,” “No Way Out.” And “All About Eve.” (See video above).

Fasten your seatbelts …

Visit http://www.filmlinc.com/nyff2014 to learn more about The 52nd New York Film Festival, including tickets and showtimes.

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Monsieur Belange Generation Z: Morphing a Mere Mortal Into a Super Man



AS I am watching the Monsieur Belange SS2015 Generation Z collection on the short runway, I am thinking that these clothes are fit for a man with swagger.

A secure man, one who knows what he's about. He is at ease blending in or standing out, though he mostly stands out, especially in the black leather cropped pullover and matching shorts with bands at the torso and legs. (He will really be set apart if he has a six pack approaching anything like the model's.)

From the Monsieur Belange Spring-Summer 2015 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.

Boyfriend does not follow the trends; he sets the trends. A case in point is the gold print agbada (men's gown) – sans pants. And sans matching fila (hat), but with big hair.

Rather baroque observations, for sure. Nevertheless, this is the lingering impression left by this latest line from Nigerian-born, Brooklyn-based designer Patrick Nwosu.

The collection, truly edgy, debuted last night at the Alchemical Studios in the Chelsea section of New York City. (See the video at top) ... More shortly.

Visit http://www.monsieurbelange.com/ to learn more about Monsieur Belange.

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Better Fast Food: Modern Oats Is Not Your Mother's or Your Grandmother's Oatmeal

Modern Oats oatmeal can be prepared and eaten in its own container. Photos from Modern Oats Web site.

YOU'RE in a hurry and you want breakfast. But not just a piece of fruit, yogurt or juice. You want something hot!

Then, follow these directions:
1. Shake it up;
2. Add boiling water to cover contents;
3. Cover with lid;
4. Let cook for three minutes;
5. Stir well, and savor.


Friends, if you've been shopping right, you've just made yourself some oatmeal. Not just any oatmeal, though. Nuts & Seeds oatmeal from the California-based Modern Oats company.

This is oatmeal that is delicious, nutritious and can be prepared in mere minutes – in its own container! … More shortly.

Visit http://www.modernoats.com/ to learn more about Modern Oats oatmeal.

Monday, September 22, 2014

Encouraging the NFL to Not Fumble the Ball on Domestic Violence



HEADS UP: There has been much prognostication over the last couple of weeks about the alleged incidents of domestic violence coming out of the National Football League. Indeed, much heat but not that much light surrounds the issue. A reasoned voice from the Johns Hopkins School of Nursing offers to the NFL a sensible, straightforward roadmap – a route borrowed from Australia's National Rugby League.

BY PATRICIA DAVIDSON

VERY
public cases of alleged violence against women have once again put the spotlight on an endemic problem not just in football, but in society at large.

Yet, so much of the discussion has focused on the degree of punishment, who received what information when, and which lives will be shattered. Rather than naming and blaming, the NFL (National Football Association), government, commentators and community organizations should focus more on solutions.

Faced with similar cases of violence in its sport, Australia's National Rugby League worked to promote the Federal Government’s National Plan to Reduce Violence Against Women campaign.

The slogan is: “The only line you should be crossing is the try line [goal line] – say no to domestic violence.” A number of players became spokespersons on the issue and the campaign continues as a catalyst to further the discussion on a national level and change behaviors. (See video at top).

The Australian national campaign required resources, funding, collaboration – and particularly leadership from within the rugby community – women’s groups and community organizations. Similarly, the NFL should get credit for its pink campaign [NFL Pink – A Crucial Catch] in October when players put on pink shoes, shoelaces and uniforms to raise money for breast cancer research.

But how ironic that the league supports this important cause on one hand yet virtually turns a confused eye to violence against women on the other? Both kill women. This is a watershed moment for the NFL to prove itself.

A nation is watching to see whether the league will act superficially to maintain women’s market share or make a real difference to change behaviors and improve women’s health and safety.

The NFL only needs to reach out to a large community already working to prevent violence against women. At the Johns Hopkins School of Nursing, for example, our researchers work in several ways to safeguard women and girls worldwide. There are smartphone apps that warn of ominous relationship signs. The mission of the Domestic Violence Enhanced Visitation Program (DOVE) is to protect women and babies. Yet another program works to empower women caught up in violence in the Congo.

The Johns Hopkins School of Nursing and the entire nursing community stand ready to help the NFL. Nurses are oftentimes the only ones that women feel comfortable reaching out to in a medical setting.

All of us have a responsibility to reject and prevent violence against everyone, particularly those who are most vulnerable. Unfortunately, this is often women and children.

Stopping violence against women will require sustained and multifaceted approaches across society. We all need to challenge not only the attitudes and behaviors that allow violence against women to occur, but also address the factors that support and enable it.

We call on the NFL to lead this important culture change in the United States.

Patricia Davidson, an Australian citizen, is the dean of the Johns Hopkins School of Nursing.

Visit the following Web sites for more information:
http://www.whiteribbon.org.au
http://www.myoath.com.au
http://www.nfl.com/pink
http://www.nursing.jhu.edu/faculty_research/research/projects/completed/dove/

Friday, September 19, 2014

Dim Despite Star Power: 'A Walk Among the Tombstones' and 'This Is Where I Leave You'

Private investigator Matt Scudder (Liam Neeson) is on the trail of a murderer in "A Walk Among the Tombstones." Photo courtesy of Universal Studios.

A private detective is in search of a killer, while an eccentric family mourns the death of its patriarch. Two films with high-wattage star power – middling efforts, both – open in U.S. theaters day.

“A Walk Among the Tombsones,” is based on the novel of the same name by Lawrence Block. The crime drama stars Liam Neeson as an NYPD policeman-turned-private detective. Matthew Scudder is in search of the killer of a woman. Not any woman, but the wife of drug dealer Kenny Kristo (Dan Stevens).(See video below).

“A Walk Among the Tombstones,” directed by Scott Frank, who also wrote the screenplay, doesn't really offer any surprises. It is a typical big screen crime film. Here is a troubled man doing his usual good job with some usual roadblocks, challenges, nonsense and mendactiy. What sets it apart, however, is the casting of LN. In fact author LB likes the actor in this role.

“Readers often ask who'd be my ideal Matt Scudder, and I usually change the subject,” said LB who producers (a long list, including Danny DeVito) invited to the “A Walk Among the Tombstones” set. “But now it's safe to tell you that, ever since I saw him in “Michael Collins,” Neeson has been up at the top of my personal Scudder wish list.

Of course, this is no “Michael Collins,” but the presence of LN raises the material above the merely pedestrian. For his part, LN is in one of his best roles in a spell; certainly, a couple of rungs above that “Taken” series.

Alas, the presence of Jane Fonda, Tina Fey, Jason Bateman and Tom Olyphant namely, do not raise “This Is Where I Leave You.”

Much is afoot when the Altman siblings return to the family seat to sit Shiva `– in the Jewish tradition, a week of mourning following the burial during which the main family receives visitors and generally comports itself solemnly – at the request of their father before he passed. But none of it is particularly interesting. (See video below).

In fact, the goings-on `– much ado (adults behaving atrociously) about nothing`–- are puerile, bordering on vapid. TF's Wendy character punching a man is not funny. Similarly, using the boob job of 70-something mom, Hillary (JF), as part of the punchline misses the mark.

The problem in “This Is Where I Leave You” is not the acting. Neither is it the material, actually. This is the stuff of life after all. Perhaps this film, based on the book of the same name by Jonahan Tropper who also wrote the screenplay, should have remained a book. Another thought is that someone other than JT might have written the screenplay.

In any case, “This Is Where I Leave You” will leave viewers wondering why they bothered to watch.

“A Walk Among the Tombstones” is rated R for strong violence, disturbing images, language and brief nudity; visit http://www.awalkamongthetombstones.net/ to learn more about the film. “This Is Where I Leave You” is rated R for language, sexual content and some drug use; visit http://www.thisiswhereileaveyou.com/ to learn more about the film.

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Despite What God Says, We Still Want Payback Before We Can Begin to Forgive

Architect Paul Kersey (Charles Bronson), left, goes on a killing spree in the “Death Wish” films when family members are murdered. Archive images.

ALLAH/God/Jehovah, aka The Great I Am, famously makes it clear to Moses in the bible book of Deuteronomy that “vengeance” is mine. “I will repay.”

That is, that the Israelites then and all so-called believers for all time should leave the exacting of revenge to him, not to undertake it ourselves.

Yet throughout the age, so many so-called believers have not been content to leave vengeance to God. Whether through war, whether it is an individual exacting revenge or knowing that those who have wronged him/her are getting some sort of comeuppance, we are not able to let bygones be bygones. Of course, anecdotally, we know this. We know that humankind is not so forgiving. But science seems to have more evidence that humans are more apt to forgive if there is involved some sort of retribution and/or restitution.

"Justice and forgiveness are often considered to be opposites, but we've found that victims who punish their offender are more able to forgive and move on," says Peter Strelan, professor in the School of Psychology at the University of Adelaide (Australia). The good doctor and colleagues have been studying forgiveness to better understand how people can resolve personal conflicts.

Of course, God asks us to forgive and be done with it – no strings attached.

In a range of different scenarios involving someone who has done wrong – a negligent friend, a criminal offender, a troubled personal relationship – PS&Co. discovered that people were more willing to forgive if those who had given offense had been punished in some way.

Not by God, though. But who's ever to say whether it is he or other forces, anyway? Yet a believer –even a nonbeliever – knows that God is probably not the instrument behind the four flat tires on the new car of his/her ex or the obscene message scrawled on the door of her nosy, annoying neighbor.

"Punishment could take many different forms,” PS asserts. “It could be giving someone the 'silent treatment', which in itself is a very powerful psychological punishment. Or in the case of a criminal offender, knowing that a court of law has imposed a reasonable sentence and that justice is being done – that may be enough for some people to forgive. That sense of justice, or getting 'just deserts', is important."

PS strongly cautions, however, that in interpersonal relationships, the vigilantism portrayed in the “Death Wish” films, for instance, should be avoided because it won't help and will likely make things worse.

"For forgiveness to really work, there must be a sense that negative responses towards a transgressor are being replaced with positive ones. It's not about retaliation, it's about responding constructively and doing something about people's poor behavior toward you, in a way that works for both parties involved in the conflict," he says.

Yet, our creator asks us to go far beyond our human boundaries. The bold, audacious and self-satisfied Simon Peter asks Jesus Christ in Matthew, “Lord, how many times shall I forgive my brother or sister who sins against me? Up to seven times?”

Admonishes Jesus, widely inferred to mean that forgiveness has no end. “I tell you, not seven times, but seventy-seven times.”

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Jiva Dance Steps to a Classical Note ...

The Jiva Dance company honors an important bird in "Mayura: Blue Peacock." Photos courtesy of Jiva Dance.

BY TAMARA BECK

IT'S
a showy, even magnificent but seemingly earthbound bird, at its best strutting and displaying its feathers.

Dance, on the other hand, is the essence of leaping, rising, reaching – a kind of flight. So perhaps it is safe to infer that rather than finding inspiration from the national bird of India, a rare and beautiful peacock, Sonali Skandan and her Jiva Dance company honor it.

Later this week, they unveil “Mayura: Blue Peacock,” a Bharatanatyam classical dance production.

Jiva Dance founder and artistic director Sonali Skandan is on an important mission.

“Mayura is the Sanskrit word for peacock, and throughout history, this magical creature has been featured in poetry, literature, sculpture, art, music, dance and mythology,” says SS, who founded Jiva Dance six years ago with a mission to present (and educate audiences about) the classical music and dance of India.

The company seeks to preserve and promote the traditional arts, while incorporating innovative techniques and invigorating the classical with a fresh and unique voice.

SS says of the peacock and the new production: “We wanted to pay homage to its beauty, grace and regal nature through our movement, music and choreography.”

The artistic director draws from these sources in her choreography for the evening-length program – from classical poetry and Indian myths and legends and love songs. An original score is provided by Rajkumar Bharathi, one of India’s most highly regarded composers.

The Jiva Dance company was founded in 2008.

“Mayura: Blue Peacock” will be performed on the evenings of 18-20 Sept. at the Chen Dance Center in New York's Chinatown.

Visit http://www.jivaperformingarts.org to learn more about "Mayura: Blue Peacock" and Jiva Dance; visit http://www.mayura.eventbrite.com for ticket information.

While Shakedown Dance Collective Lets It Rip
THE populist and free-form Shakedown Dance Collective (SDC) represents nearly the polar opposite of the stylized approach of Jiva Dance.

The New York City-based SDC, conceived by dancer-choreographers Jamie Benson and Deborah Lohse, invites everyone to get up and perform.

There are lessons, so the less adept won't fall flat. The concept, however, is anyone can (and should) dance. (See video at right).

The SDC season is just a week old and the dancing is from 7 to 8 ($10 class) Monday nights immediately followed by an hourlong rehearsal (free) at the Chrystie Street Ballet Academy.

Visit http://www.jamiebenson.com/shakedown/ to learn more about the Shakedown Dance Collective.

Thursday, September 11, 2014

MBFW Day 7: The B(etsey Johnson) Is Back! And She Wants Some Justice …

From the Betsey Johnson Spring-Summer 2015 collection, PRENUP. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

HEADS UP: It's early September and that means one important thing in the ragtrade: fashion trade shows. To that end, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2015. As we at VEVLYN'S PEN endeavor to bring some interesting fashion news to our dear readers, we don't mind changing with the seasons. One small tweak this season, each day one (perhaps two) designers/labels will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy. Thank you for your support!

Day 7
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere: ADRIAN ALICEA, ANNA SUI, BIBHU MOHAPATRA, THE BLONDS, B MICHAEL AMERICA COUTURE, BOSS WOMEN, CLOVER CANYON, DELPOZO, ELIZABETH AND JAMES, ELLE RUNWAY COLLECTION BY KOHL'S, ERIN FETHERSTON, FLUX HAWAII, HANLEY MELLON, JEREMY SCOTT, JOANNA MASTROIANNI, LUAR ZEPOL, MARIA KE FISHERMAN, MAURICIO ALPIZAR/A. BERRETTS, MICHAEL KORS, NEWBARK, ORGANIC BY JOHN PATRICK, OSKLEN, PATRICIA MORALES, PROENZA SCHOULER, REED KRAKOFF, RICARDO SECO, STEVEN ALAN, TRADEMARK)

TWO
male models, got up in matching white jackets, v-neck shirts and black pants, meander down the runway. Both are holding the same b&w bouquet. When they make their turn, printed on the back of their jackets in silver sequinned letters are the the words pre and nup, respectively. At the mouth of the runway, one of them grabs the other and kisses him on the mouth.

So begins the Betsey Johnson Spring-Summer 2015 show, “PRENUP. Clearly, BJ is making a case for marriage equality in her unique way. That is, with straight models, along with LBGTQ colleagues. You gotta love it. (See video below).

Judging by the attitude of the getups on the runway, BJ's financial woes of a couple of years ago are forgotten. She is as sanguine as ever and seems to be everywhere this season. One of her dresses appeared in the “Salute the Runway” show last week.

She's behind a few ensems in the traveling “Snoopy & Belle in Fashion presented by MetLife” exhibition that closed yesterday at the New Museum. And she was at that swanky opening cocktail party on Monday night. On Tuesday afternoon, she was front row at the Serena Williams Signature Collection by HSN Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York debut.

Old girl is her old self, producing clothes that don't pretend to be serious. Yet Spring 2015 is more accessible than much of what has come before it, without obvious conformity. And once the mind quits trying to ascertain the gender of the model wearing these wedding-themed frocks, it can concentrate on some of the nifty details and craft herein. They are in here.

Life is too short, so why not walk down the aisle in the blinding silver gown with halter-top and voluminous multi-layered skirt on Atlanta housewife Cynthia Bailey who is strutting a la Mae West? Indeed, one must have the little chiffon negligee with fur bra. A more conservative type may go for the fetching creme embroidered lace A-line cocktail dress with cap sleeves. Retailers will be happy about this one.

In considering BJ, do not literally interpret her from the runway. Of course, this is the case with many designers, but especially true of she of the signature cartwheel. Persist and you may do so at your folly.

Seriously, law enforcement may cite you for indecent exposure. To that end, save the white chiffon wrap with horizontal bands with bra and panties underneath for your bedroom. If you simply must wear it out of doors, pair it with a white pencil dress, for instance.

Similarly, take that cropped canary yellow top with "PRENUP" emblazoned across it – which is rather tame by BJ standards – and match it with a pair of high-waisted pants or a shift. The possibilities are various.

From the Betsey Johnson Spring-Summer 2015 collection/Getty Images. Photo by Frazer Harrison.

One piece with wide appeal, however, is the white gown with a bustier top and voluminous tulle skirt. It's actually quite beautiful and well-executed, with belle of the ball pretensions.


Yes, life with BJ is never boring; always fun!

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

On deck today, LAST DAY: ART HEARTS FASHION, CALVIN KLEIN, CRISTINA OTTAVIANO, EN NOIR, JEFFREY DODD, J. MENDEL, KITHE BREWSTER, K. NICOLE, KOTUR, MARC JACOBS, RALPH LAUREN

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

MBFW Day 6: Serena Tucks Another Win Under Her Belt; Shy Zang Toi Is Dragged Back to Face the Music; Concept Korea Takes It to the Street …

From the Serena Williams Signature Collection by HSN. Photos by Bebeto Matthew/AP.

HEADS UP: It's early September and that means one important thing in the ragtrade: fashion trade shows. To that end, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2015. As we at VEVLYN'S PEN endeavor to bring some interesting fashion news to our dear readers, we don't mind changing with the seasons. One small tweak this season, each day one (perhaps two) designers/labels will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy. Thank you for your support!

Serena Williams poses with models backstage after her fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York. Photo by Yours Truly.

Day 6
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere: AZEDE JEAN-PIERRE, CYNTHIA ROWLEY, J. CREW, BADGLEY MISCHKA, DIESEL BLACK GOLD, ICB, ISABELLA ROSE TAYLOR BY BELLE, JENNY PACKHAM, JURJIS JARVIS, MARC BY MARC JACOBS, MM6 MATHIEU MARTIN MARGIELA, NAEEM KHAN, NARCISO RODRIGUEZ, NOON BY NOOR, PAMELLA ROLAND, RODARTE, SERENA WILLIAMS SIGNATURE COLLECTION BY HSN, SOPHIA THEALLET, TIMO WEILAND, TORY BURCH, VALENTINA KOVA, VERA WANG, ZANG TOI)

SHE
wanted a collection that is immediately wearable; clothes that can be taken off the models and placed on mere mortals who could then go about their business.

Serena Williams closes her show with a plus-size model. Photo by Yours Truly.

On that score, Serena Williams hits an ace in her debut at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York. The Serena Williams Signature Collection by HSN is a capsule collection of ready-to-wear casual clothes.

Spring-Summer 2015 is heavy on black and gray with navy, pink and purple popping up occasionally. It is competent, wearable. Tooling around clothes that can also fit in at many offices, the night club and numerous other venues. Nothing earth-shattering like 18 tennis grand slam singles titles spaced over 15 years. These are pieces – go-to clothing – that are utterly accessible to the mass market that the tennis champ and businesswoman is targeting.

Serena Williams with Kenya Moore after her show. Photo by Yours Truly.

It is not yet clear where else one can cop those gray and black animal-print leggings or leatheresque A-line black miniskirt, but they will be available on HSN.

Meanwhile, one has the nagging suspicion that most of the enthusiastic witnesses to SW's fashion week debut are unaware that this is not her first fashion line ever. It is her first fashion week line ever. SW has been doing brisk business on HSN for a spell now.

With her days on the court winding down, it can be surmised that SW is slowly transitioning to another of her passions: fashion. No doubt, she will be accommodated.

Model hair, styled to perfection with salon-quality products from Olivia Garden (http://www.oliviagarden.com). Photo courtesy of Olivia Garden.

And if there was any doubt about the seriousness of this venture, one need not have looked any further than the front row where Anna Wintour took herself off to. It is only fitting that when the queen of the tennis court makes a serious foray into fashion that the queen of fashion deign to give her public blessing, as it were.

Also on the front row is galpal and vanquished 2014 U.S. Open opponent Caroline Wozniacki and home state girl, Kenya Moore, former Miss USA and current rabbble-rouser on the “The Real Housewives of Atlanta.”

Kenya Moore liked what she saw on the Serena Williams runway. Photo by Yours Truly.

The show closer is a pièce de résistance: a black dress with zipper on the front, an asymmetrical collar and chiffon sleeves. It is sexy and looks comfortable. Further, it is remarkable because it is worn by a plus-side model, a woman with a figure similar to – though not nearly as toned and honed – the designer's.

“I loved it,” gushes KM not surprisingly of the dress and her buddy's entire collection backstage after the show, her first of fashion week. “She's done a great job, like she does with everything.”

SNAPSHOT: ZANG TOI
CARMEN Marc Valvo is not the only designer this season celebrating 25 years in the ragtrade. Take a bow, Zang Toi. ZT, who produces evening wear with mastery and elegance, is a perennial hit at fashion week. He is also a very humble and shy man.

It is no surprise, then, that he is very reluctant to accept the adoration that is his due after his spectacular show, in three parts. In fact, he is downright persistent in not facing the praise; gripping the hand of one of his models, seemingly for dear life, he is fleeing backstage.

Just as persistent, however, is photog wrangler Richard Renda. He sets off in pursuit, literally pulling the Malaysian designer and muse back onto the runway to be serenaded by the crowd, and to blow the candle on a chocolate (or opera) cake. So very American like ZT's show, “A Privileged Life: The American Dream.”

Wrote RR on his Facebook wall about the Zang Surprise: “Life and all its powers chose the way this would come together. Everyone in the house was on the edge of their seat in anticipation or standing and cheering as we all came together as one big family and had a Magical Moment give new means to the word 'spontaneous'.

Wait, i take that back! I think EVERYONE was standing, clapping, and cheering in anticipation of will Destiny be fulfilled. The Moment of – this is Unbelievable!"

CONCEPT KOREA
From Spring-Summer 2015 collection of Concept Korea designers Beyond Closet (left) and Resurrection. Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

YOURS Truly concurs with stylegeister Phillip Bloch about the Concept Korea collective show: “It is edgy, real fashion, the type of clothes that people wear. The kind of stuff you see in London.”

On deck today, Day 7: ADRIAN ALICEA, ANNA SUI, BIBHU MOHAPATRA, THE BLONDS, B MICHAEL AMERICA COUTURE, BOSS WOMEN, CLOVER CANYON, DELPOZO, ELIZABETH AND JAMES, ELLE RUNWAY COLLECTION BY KOHL'S, ERIN FETHERSTON, FLUX HAWAII, HANLEY MELLON, JEREMY SCOTT, JOANNA MASTROIANNI, LUAR ZEPOL, MARIA KE FISHERMAN, MAURICIO ALPIZAR/A. BERRETTS, MICHAEL KORS, NEWBARK, ORGANIC BY JOHN PATRICK, OSKLEN, PATRICIA MORALES, PROENZA SCHOULER, REED KRAKOFF, RICARDO SECO, STEVEN ALAN, TRADEMARK

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

MBFW Day 5: Guess Who They Are Wearing Then and Now: Snoopy & Belle in Fashion …

Snoopy and Belle by Karl Lagerfeld. Photos by Yours Truly.

HEADS UP: It's early September and that means one important thing in the ragtrade: fashion trade shows. To that end, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2015. As we at VEVLYN'S PEN endeavor to bring some interesting fashion news to our dear readers, we don't mind changing with the seasons. One small tweak this season, each day one (perhaps two) designers/labels will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy. Thank you for your support!

Day 5
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, ADEAM, ANGEL SANCHEZ, CAROLINA HERRERA, GEORGINE, LELA ROSE, MILLY BY MICHELLE SMITH, THE ROW, PALTER DELISO, PEANUTS WORLDWIDE, REEM ACRA, TAORAY WANG, THEORY, TOMMY HILFIGER, THE WHITE SPACE, YEOHLEE, ZAC POSEN)

Snoopy and Belle by Hermes.

THE
siblings canine are dressed to kill in their black evening finery. Ready to disco in their shimmering silver. And between galas and parties, they are a sporting pair in what looks to be golf garb.

Regardless of the getup, Snoopy and Belle are turned out in high style, courtesy of some of the world's top designers.

Rachel Kapur and Betsey Johnson have a tête-à-tête after the designer looks over her pieces.

Welcome to the second edition of “Snoopy & Belle in Fashion presented by Metlife.” It is among a number of Peanuts-related entertainments, timed to coincide with the 65th anniversary next year of the Charles Schulz comic strip.

The traveling exhibition, celebrating 30 years of Peanuts in fashion, opened yesterday with a star-pocked cocktail party at the Sky Room of the New Museum in the Soho section of Manhattan. Hurry, it leaves on Wednesday (10 Sept.)

Snoopy and Belle by Gucci.

Betsey Johnson, the talent behind four Snoopy and Belle ensems, is here in this space offering some enviable views of the Lower East Side and Soho. The designing men of Costello Tagliapietra are lumbering about in their plaids. Fresh off of the successful showing of his Spring-Summer 2015 line, Christian Siriano is stealthily moving about, trying to make himself feel smaller than ever. And Tyson Beckford is standing here and there in fine, v-shaped form.

Almost from the beginning, Snoopy fans began demanding a wardrobe for their plush doll. A few years after Belle hit the fashion scene, an executive from the company that had heretofore been producing the frocks reached out to some of the world's top designers, no doubt humbly asking whether they would deign to design some threads for a pair of dogs.

Snoopy and Belle by Royal Asscher X Pluma.

The response was enthusiastic and that first world traveling exhibit was born in 1984. The class includes Giorgio Armani, Karl Lagerfeld and Oscar de la Renta, who is presenting his Spring-Summer 2015 collection this evening.

Thirty years later, it seems fitting for a redux. The new class includes Siriano, Zac Posen, Tracy Reese and Rodarte, also showing today during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York.

Snoopy and Belle by Hermes.

“Snoopy and Belle in Fashion presented by MetLife,” free and open to the public with reserved ticket, journeys to the Palais de Tokyo in Paris after it quits New York. Other stops are Milan, Moscow and Tokyo on a two-year tour that is still being worked out.

Visit http://www.snooopyandbelleinfashion.com to learn more about “Snoopy & Belle in Fashion presented by Metlife,” including ticket information.

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Monday, September 8, 2014

MBFW Day 4: Is Vivienne Tam Missing Something or Is Someone Missing Some Sleep

From the Vivienne Tam Spring-Summer 2015 collection. Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

HEADS UP: It's early September and that means one important thing in the ragtrade: fashion trade shows. To that end, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2015. As we at VEVLYN'S PEN endeavor to bring some interesting fashion news to our dear readers, we don't mind changing with the seasons. One small tweak this season, each day one (perhaps two) designers/labels will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy. Thank you for your support!

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere: BRANDON SUN, CUSTO BARCELONA, DEREK LAM, DESIGNERS' PREMIERE, HOOD BY AIR, NANETTE LEPORE, PORSCHE, PUBLIC SCHOOL ROLANDO SANTANA, THAKOON, TIM COPPENS, TRACY REESE, VICTORIA BECKHAM, VIVIENNE TAM)

THE
dress with an enchanting floral print on its top, black on its skirt and red panel at its waist is perky.

The blue floral dress with orange cut-outs has verve. Here we are at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, the Vivienne Tam Spring-Summer 2015 show. It is informed by decorative treasures from the Ming and Qing dynasties that reside in the Forbidden Palace. Vases and such bearing exquisite floral designs and motifs; whatnots that are lacquered up. Exquisiteness and craft, all.

Yet there is a disconnect. Something is lost in translation on this runway. This collection lacks a specialness, unlike Custo Barcelona, but more on that later. The music is heavily techno and the clothes tend toward zen. Ying and yang. Not a good match here.

From the Custo Barcelona Spring-Summer 2015 collection. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

The prints are beautiful, and of course, the garments are well-constructed. Yet, something is off (or is someone behind on her sleep?). The last gown – blue and white floral that is in its natural habitat on a grand vase, or gown – is quietly beautiful. Demure, even.

One likes SS 2015 at VT but with elusive caveats.

MILLENNIAL MISCHIEF, OR IS SOMEONE TOO OLD FOR THIS _ _ _ _?!!!
“Did he send you over here,” Big, Beefy Guy demands to know from Yours Truly and her Wingwoman as I open the door – and he stays my hand – to enter the Lower East Side bar, Max Fish. He is referring to his colleague, also a BBG, who'd pointed us toward the door when we inquired about the whereabouts of the refurbished haunt.

“Yes,” I say. He releases my hand, I open the door and we sweep inside, quickly hustling ourselves through the crowd of hipsters here at the Frank 151 x DKNY afterparty, celebrating the issue of the quarterly cultural rag, sponsored by the fashion brand. We're hurrying and scurrying before BBG No. 1 checks out our story and hauls us back outside and to the back of the long line of people waiting to go inside.

DKNY sponsored the latest edition of Frank 151. Photo by Yours Truly.

It appears that we are off to a good start. After we settle our gear in a seat that just opened up next to an acquaintance, Wingwoman goes to the bar for some liquid refreshment and returns with a cocktail for her and a beer in a glass for me.

I introduce her to my companion and the three of us quickly chatting amicably. Then, a little bit of hell breaks loose. CRASH! BANG!! BOOM!!! Our table is upset and glasses and beer fly, giving the three of us a premature shower. The cause of this commotion – a tall drink of water with a baby face and light brown hair– is profusely apologetic. Profusely. So profusely that he does not understand that I am asking him to replace my beer. Finally, comprehension dawns. “If you replace my beer, all will be forgiven,” I promise.

He smiles sweetly and off he goes. And he does return with beer, apologizes again, and decides that it may be better not to try to dance wildly with his girlfriend while standing between the bench and our table in a space that is about two-feet wide.

All is well that ends well, right? My little party returns to chatting, only to have to suffer through a few aftershocks.

Aftershock No.1: Curvy Six-foot beauty in red hot pants is go-go dancing right in front of us. She is close enough to give anyone of us a lap dance.

Aftershock No. 2: Five-foot beauty, a tiny thing who is an acquaintance of six-foot beauty, somehow manages to stand behind her friend but in front of us. Her rear is so close we can bite it. Finally, I can stand it no longer. Quite apart from me, my left hand pushes her forward. She reacts like scalded cat, calling me a dog of the female variety and stomps off. Good riddance.

Aftershock No. 3: A guy is smoking a cigarette of dubious origin until maybe he has had enough of it. Yes, they is smoking inside an establishment in Manhattan. Maybe the Lower East Side has different rules. He attempts to put the cigarette out on the table. I suggest the floor or going outside. I don't think he even hears me.

Aftershock No. 4: Random handsome guy who we strongly believe has had a little too much of something, drunk-sits next to me. Or should I say partly on my right leg, then he puts his arm around me and Wingwoman. By now, I am speechless.

Aftershock No. 5: Mya, a late 1990s and early 2000s R&B, is performing now. Everybody wants to see. By now, the bench around us is populated by fans who are standing on the bench. Video guy appears and is standing right next to where I am sitting, so absorbed in recording that he does not realize that he is partly standing on my leg. I jump up like a scaled cat, nicely informing him once upon a time about three seconds ago he was standing on me. He is profusely apologetic.

By now, I decide that I can't stand this any longer. I have no choice but to stand – on the floor. That's when I see a snake sprawled across my purse. Before thinking, I was about to throw the critter across the room, that is until I realize that it is a skateboard resting on my purse as if it is a blanket. I haul it under the table. The infernal thing belongs to Video guy, I learn soon enough. I didn't even bother to tell him where he dropped it.

Aftershock No. 6: By now, Mia is on her third song. The Hot Young Think in the Black Gown, who has been standing on our table, is now swaying. As Mia gets toward the end of her song HYTitBGM is ramping up for a full dance-on. Meanwhile, the glasses on the table are shaking as if the earth is quaking. The closer she gets to what is about to be a go-go dance, I tap her on the arm and suggest that it may not be a good idea to do that level of dancing on the table, which is full of glasses.

Several performers stepped up to the mic last night during the Frank 151 x DKNY afterparty at Max Fish. Photo by Rachel Kapur.

“Did you buy this table,” she asserts (it was not a question).
“No,” I reply, “ but the glasses are going to break and our drinks are here.”
Looking down on the table. “Oh.”
I look her in her glassy eyes, my expressions saying, “Even you see the problem, right.”
“I guess I should probably get down,” she reasons.
“Yes.”
She extends her hand and I take it as she steps down from the table, nearly toppling it and everything else on it.
“I love her so much,” HYTitBGM says of Mia.
I nod in understanding.


The moral of the story: In the United States, the under-30 crowd is … has a certain je ne sais quoi.

On Deck today, Day 5: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, ADEAM, ANGEL SANCHEZ, CAROLINA HERRERA, GEORGINE, LELA ROSE, MILLY BY MICHELLE SMITH, THE ROW, PALTER DELISO, PEANUTS WORLDWIDE, REEM ACRA, TAORAY WANG, THEORY, TOMMY HILFIGER, THE WHITE SPACE, YEOHLEE, ZAC POSEN

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.
 
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