NYFW: The Shows Day 2 – Here’s an Adjective That Doesn’t Normally Apply to Custo Barcelona; Betsey Johnson is Golden; Zang Toi Has You Covered (Exquisitely) for Your Island Vacation; From the Academy (of Art University), More Glimpses of the Future

Some of the players on Day 2: CG, Gabriela Hearst, Wes Gordon, Jonathan Cohen, Visvim, Jason Wu, Yigal Azrouel, Novis, Kate Spade, Ida Cohen, Custo Barcelona, Zimmermann, Tanya Taylor, Rosie Assoulin, Sally LaPointe, Betsey Johnson, Karigam,Polo, Cushnie et Ochs, Giulietta, Max Gengos, Pamella Roland, Kye, Ryan Roche, Nicole Miller, Givenchy, Zang Toi, Chromat, Academy of Art University

ONE encounters a legend of prints whenever taking Custo Barcelona under consideration. In a good way, in the main.

For S/S 2016 at New York Fashion Week: The Shows, it is the same. Yet, there is a differentness. It has taken a few passes of players in the new line to suss it out. Dare one utter such a characterization of a Custo Barcelona collection?

One dares. It is elegant. For women, anyway. Men are a bit of an afterthought. “Carefree elegance,” are their key words for the new collection, drawing heavily on the label’s playbook.

Meanwhile, on the women’s side, it is called “Slow,” taking cues from the zeitgeist in the culinary movement to return to and enjoy slow cooking. The dizzying array of patterns – it’s in there.
However, it seems that more elegance is imparted by also relying on small, solid blocks of color here and there. Another device is occasionally pulling back a print or two, creating a more coherent, polished tableaux.

One can get used to this.

From the Custo Barcelona S/S 2016 collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

Zang Toi

Though Zang Toi S/S 2016 is inspired by a volcanic Greek Island, the collection is a meditation on serene elegance. A playlist of soothing music– including some Maria Callas favorites – further set the tone.

The stunning opening series of whites – pantsuits, tunics, dresses, blouses – in various high-thread-count cottons is the embodiment of Zen. Accessible where white can often imply frigidity, the peasant blouses with their oversized sleeves, in particular, suggest an invitation to watch one of the breathtaking sunsets for which the towns and villages of Santorini Island are known.

Another ironic twist is the minimalist quality of the collection. Where ZT could have indulged in an overabundance of stitching and beading to conjure the splendors of this patch of God’s green earth, he chooses instead to employ mere touches, deferring to scale.

For instance, only the cap sleeves of an ocean blue (navy) woven silk sheath are covered by hand-beaded sequins in ocean green. Elsewhere, an ocean blue Maria Callas great coat bears the same ocean green sequins in a block of space near its hem.

Incidentally, ZT keeps the color palette simple too – mainly white, turquoise and navy, with splashes of green. It’s a tranquil setting.

Betsey Johnson

WE can all but hope that we have the zest for life (and flexibility) that Betsey Johnson does when we’re 73.

It is not clear whether a S/S 2016 collection, titled “The Curious Case of Betsey Button,” was created or whether the cartwheeling, side-splitting, high-kicking designer raided her trunks. Tutus, tiaras, chains, cutouts, fishnet stockings, prairie dresses …

In paying homage to her 50th year in the ragtrade, the punk grand dame showed nightclub-inspired looks from each of the five decades in roughly descending order, introducing each in rhyme over an intercom

The models, God help them, how bland! BJ may have plucked drag queens and transgenders to do her on-stage dancing, vamping, vogueing and posing as each era was introduced.

Still, it’s Betsey, so there is always fun nearby. Happy 50th Betsey. And many, many, many more!

Academy of Art University

The San Francisco-based Academy of Art University (AAU) always represents a breath of fresh air at New York Fashion Week

Each season, AAU – celebrating 10 years at NYFW with S/S 2016 – brings a crop of students showing their thesis collection. Incidentally, these are not mere vanity projects to fulfill curriculum requirements.

AAU grads work with some of the top names in fashion. Alexander McQueen, Banana Republic, Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs are among them.

Last night, Livia Bianda and Wenhan Yuan showed two of the strongest collections. Remember these names.

On deck today, Day 3: Adam Lippes, Lacoste, Misha Nonoo, Jill Stuart, Noon by Noor, Emerging Designers Collective, Osklen, Dion Lee, Rebecca Minkoff, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Tibi, Tsion Rocks by Yvette Crocker, Skingraft, Mara Hoffman, Ji Oh, Christian Siriano, Francesca Liberatore, Designers’ Collective, E Sosa, Santa Clara Moda, Chrisber’Y, Anthony Rubio, Marco Marco, Banana Republic, Collina Strada, Monique Lhuillier, Frank B Hollywood, Baby Ghost, Altuzarra, Son Jung Wan, Amiat by Tamil Robinson Group,

Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.

MBFW Day 7: The B(etsey Johnson) Is Back! And She Wants Some Justice …

From the Betsey Johnson Spring-Summer 2015 collection, PRENUP. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

HEADS UP: It's early September and that means one important thing in the ragtrade: fashion trade shows. To that end, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2015. As we at VEVLYN'S PEN endeavor to bring some interesting fashion news to our dear readers, we don't mind changing with the seasons. One small tweak this season, each day one (perhaps two) designers/labels will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy. Thank you for your support!

Day 7
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere: ADRIAN ALICEA, ANNA SUI, BIBHU MOHAPATRA, THE BLONDS, B MICHAEL AMERICA COUTURE, BOSS WOMEN, CLOVER CANYON, DELPOZO, ELIZABETH AND JAMES, ELLE RUNWAY COLLECTION BY KOHL'S, ERIN FETHERSTON, FLUX HAWAII, HANLEY MELLON, JEREMY SCOTT, JOANNA MASTROIANNI, LUAR ZEPOL, MARIA KE FISHERMAN, MAURICIO ALPIZAR/A. BERRETTS, MICHAEL KORS, NEWBARK, ORGANIC BY JOHN PATRICK, OSKLEN, PATRICIA MORALES, PROENZA SCHOULER, REED KRAKOFF, RICARDO SECO, STEVEN ALAN, TRADEMARK)

TWO male models, got up in matching white jackets, v-neck shirts and black pants, meander down the runway. Both are holding the same b&w bouquet. When they make their turn, printed on the back of their jackets in silver sequinned letters are the the words pre and nup, respectively. At the mouth of the runway, one of them grabs the other and kisses him on the mouth.

So begins the Betsey Johnson Spring-Summer 2015 show, “PRENUP. Clearly, BJ is making a case for marriage equality in her unique way. That is, with straight models, along with LBGTQ colleagues. You gotta love it. (See video below).

Judging by the attitude of the getups on the runway, BJ's financial woes of a couple of years ago are forgotten. She is as sanguine as ever and seems to be everywhere this season. One of her dresses appeared in the “Salute the Runway” show last week.

She's behind a few ensems in the traveling “Snoopy & Belle in Fashion presented by MetLife” exhibition that closed yesterday at the New Museum. And she was at that swanky opening cocktail party on Monday night. On Tuesday afternoon, she was front row at the Serena Williams Signature Collection by HSN Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York debut.

Old girl is her old self, producing clothes that don't pretend to be serious. Yet Spring 2015 is more accessible than much of what has come before it, without obvious conformity. And once the mind quits trying to ascertain the gender of the model wearing these wedding-themed frocks, it can concentrate on some of the nifty details and craft herein. They are in here.

Life is too short, so why not walk down the aisle in the blinding silver gown with halter-top and voluminous multi-layered skirt on Atlanta housewife Cynthia Bailey who is strutting a la Mae West? Indeed, one must have the little chiffon negligee with fur bra. A more conservative type may go for the fetching creme embroidered lace A-line cocktail dress with cap sleeves. Retailers will be happy about this one.

In considering BJ, do not literally interpret her from the runway. Of course, this is the case with many designers, but especially true of she of the signature cartwheel. Persist and you may do so at your folly.

Seriously, law enforcement may cite you for indecent exposure. To that end, save the white chiffon wrap with horizontal bands with bra and panties underneath for your bedroom. If you simply must wear it out of doors, pair it with a white pencil dress, for instance.

Similarly, take that cropped canary yellow top with "PRENUP" emblazoned across it – which is rather tame by BJ standards – and match it with a pair of high-waisted pants or a shift. The possibilities are various.

From the Betsey Johnson Spring-Summer 2015 collection/Getty Images. Photo by Frazer Harrison.

One piece with wide appeal, however, is the white gown with a bustier top and voluminous tulle skirt. It's actually quite beautiful and well-executed, with belle of the ball pretensions.


Yes, life with BJ is never boring; always fun!

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

On deck today, LAST DAY: ART HEARTS FASHION, CALVIN KLEIN, CRISTINA OTTAVIANO, EN NOIR, JEFFREY DODD, J. MENDEL, KITHE BREWSTER, K. NICOLE, KOTUR, MARC JACOBS, RALPH LAUREN

Betsey Johnson SS13 Dress Collection. Ha! Seriously.

HEAD’S UP: Was there any doubt that after debuting “Glimpses of Fall” last year that there would be a “Glimpses of Spring?” Of course, not! Same deal; different season: To help trade and to help VEVLYN’S PEN readers and followers (potential shoppers), Yours Truly will be bringing to your attention over the next few weeks or so various spring collections. Most Thursdays through Memorial Day or the first week of June – I haven’t decided yet; stay tuned – I’ll provide a peek at a line/brand/shop that I deem captivating and worthy of your notice. Happy shopping!

FOR the doubters, introducing the Betsey Johnson SS13 Dress Collection. Yes, dresses – and not a cheerleader costume in the mix. Actual. Dresses.

BJ is actually capable of designing clothes that real women – not extremely young females or drag queens – will wear.

Mixed media sundress. Some vital stats: V-neck, full skirt, smocked back. Top, 92% polyester, 8% spandex. Skirt, 70% cotton, 30% spandex. Photos from Betsey Johnson Web site.

Recall that she likes to have fun, and that was what she was doing all of those seasons when it seemed to many that she was not designing at all. When the rap on the former dancer and cartwheel specialist was that she was just feeding her ever-expanding branding machine. No one is denying any merit in such observations.

Color block tank dress. Some vital stats: accordion pleats, scoop neck, dropped waist; 100% polyester

Her eponymous brick&mortars may be no more, but BJ is still holding it down online and in Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom and Macy’s amongst other places. In fact, a few weeks back, the Macy’s windows at New York’s Herald Square flagship store went all-out BJ.

Striped dress. Some vital stats: twist allusion, crew neck; 95% rayon, 5% spandex

At Macy’s, BJ declared to all who had ears, “I'm back!!! Doing my dress thing. Pretty and punk, sweet and sexy, always rock 'n' roll."

Who knew BJ had gone anywhere? In any case, she's undertaken a little makeover or simply returned to some fundamentals. Indeed, a brush with insolvency and irrelevance can send a body back to the sewing room. Make a date to meet Zip Front Tank; Floral w/Peplum' Striped; Color Block Tank; Mixed Media Sundress and others.

Confetti print dress. Some vital stats: assymmetry, draping ruching; 95% polyester, 5% spandex

The fetching assortment is fun, flirty, insouciant. And wearable, proving that BJ can have her fun and produce a serious frock, too.

That’s worth at least two cartwheels, no?

Visit http://www.bit.ly/YAiG6W to learn more about Betsey Johnson SS13 Dress Collection. Rx

MBFW Day 5: Takes More Than Reverses to Keep Betsey J. Down!

Betsey Johnson will take care of your workout wardrobe. Photo from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

HEAD’S UP: That turnaround between September and February always seems short. One is in the middle of the Yuletide season when the notice arrives about registering for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York! Well, here we are at Fall 2013 and a small change in the VEVLYN’S PEN approach to covering Fashion Week. We will still put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits. We will also continue to endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Now, for the changes. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” as we on 7 Feb. (http://www.vevlynspen.com/2013/02/mbfw-day-1-snapshot-todd-snyders.html). We will also comment on particular pieces from a collection that capture our imagination. Finally, at VEVLYN’S PEN, coverage may take the form of photos with comments underneath, including whether the picture subject tends toward a trend. How’s that? OK, off we go!

Day 5
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere):  3.1 PHILLIP LIM, ALICE + OLIVIA, ASSEMBLY, BARBARA TFANK, BELSTAFFICA HQ, BETSEY JOHNSON, BROOD, CAROLINA HERRERA, DONNA KARAN NEW YORK, DL1961, HERNAN LANDER, ICB BY PRABAL GURUNG, JIL SANDER NAVY, KAELEN, KAREN WALKER, KAUFMAN FRANCO, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, MARC BY MARC JACOBS, MATHIEU MIRANO, OHNE TITEL, PAMELLA ROLAND, REEM ACRA, THE ROW, THEYSKENS' THEORY, THOM BROWNE, TIM COPPENS, WES GORDON, YEOHLEE, ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO

HAND’S down, the vote for “Most Fun Show” on any day that she is showing goes to the indefatigable Betsey Johnson.

Off to a cocktail party at Betsey Johnson.Photo from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

There we were, a group of us, sitting insouciantly in one of the sponsor cubicles in the lobby of the tent Sunday night. Someone among us who had not done Fashion Week in a spell asked after BJ. Yours Truly is ashamed to disclose that it was I who said BJ was not showing.

In my defense, I am certain that when I was sending out my initial invitation requests, BJ was not on the schedule. IMG, the outfit that runs Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, does send out updates. No doubt, BJ’s contact details appeared in a later iteration.

In any case, BJ has not gone away like her stores. The fledgling reality TV star showed an abbreviated collection in the Studio tent, a sure sign that she’s had a few financial setbacks. Normally, the BJ show is a SRO affair in the Theater tent, the largest of them all. The Studio was SRO, too. Tears were likely shed because the intimate space filled up quick, fast and in a hurry.

Betsey&Co. working things out on the runway. Photo by Neil Wolfson.

Thankfully, they could watch BJ's signature cartwheel and watch her do pushups with the models from the monitors in the lobby. Alas, it's only a fair substitute; it's a totally different energy inside the show - at least a BJ show. ALWAYS a spectacle not to be missed if it can be helped.

For Fall 2013, BJ is on her way to the gym or somewhere she can get her workout on. It’s a fun, bright, colorful trip. And to lighten her load, she may be wearing her post-workout outfit, for some of the ensembles look downright wearable outside of a good workout session. They can go places where they and their wearer won’t stand out in a most curious way.

In Betsey Johnson running errands or on the morning run.Photo from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

BJ’s business and fortunes may be down a tad, but BJ is never out!

On Deck today, Day 6:  ADEAM , ARAKSBADGLEY MISCHKA , BESPOKEN, DENNIS BASSO , DIESEL BLACK GOLD , ELIE TAHARI , J.CREW, JENNY PACKHAM, MARC BY MARC JACOBS, MICHAEL BASTIAN, MISHA NONOO, NAEEM KHAN, NARCISO RODRIGUEZ, OSCAR DE LA RENTA, PERRY ELLIS BY DUCKIE BROWN, RODARTE, SIKI IM, SOPHIE THEALLET, STEVEN ALAN, TORY BURCH, VANTAN TOKYO, VERA WANG, VICTORIA BY VICTORIA BECKHAM

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 5 MBFW: Marc Jacobs Knows What He's About

HEAD’S UP: Can you believe it's Fashion Week already? That respite between September and February seems very short, especially since press registration notices started arriving during the crush of the holiday shopping season. In any case, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York has returned for the Fall 2012 edition. At VEVLYN'S PEN, we are going to do things slightly different this season. I still endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

The change will be most apparent in show coverage. Where before I was doing a sort of "best of," I will tweak that this season and focus on what truly inspires me. Why the change? Simply put, I have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires me, I will tell you so and tell you why. Let the games begin ...

Day 5
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): : 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alice + Olivia, Betsey Johnson, Bibhu Mohapatra, Carlos Miele, Carolina Herrera, Chris Benz, Donna Karan, Emilio Cavallini, Irina Shabayeva, Jenny Packham, Karen Walker, Leather Japan 2012, Marc Jacobs, Negarin, Preen, Prete & Bruno, Reem Acra, Theyskens' Theory, Titel1, Thom Browne, Viktor Luna, Yeohlee, Zang Toi, Zero+Maria Cornejo

THE Wow! came in more ways than one last night, just as Day 5 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York was shuttering. Thank you, Marc Jacobs.

BEST PRESENTATION FORMAT and MOST INTRIGUING SHOW – MJ is like God in this respect: His thoughts are not our thoughts. For instance, to show his Fall 2012 collection he chooses a fantasy set out of some unknown dystopian world; indeed, it is a place that is gray and moody, the last of its best gone to the dust. It is also magnificent. (See video above).

Meanwhile, as the first strains of “Who Will Buy?” are piping out of the sound system, the first model descends a staircase. At first, all one can see is the sloppy fur (mink? chinchilla?) hat that would do proud musketeers Athos, Porthos and Aramis. As more of her is revealed so the mystery intensifies. She is also wearing a heavy black/gold scarf, gold metallic dress, black cropped pants, black wool shrug and purple coat. On her feet, black socks and black/gold pilgrim shoes. The second look is similar. So is the third, as is the fourth and many others that appear along the winding runway.

For fall, MJ likes layers that simultaneously channel a bag lady, dowager fallen on hard times and a grunge goddess with a gargantuan budget. His muse is also a little hippy, that is, she is not built like a 13-year-old boy. All are got up in lush fabrics: brocade, paisley, velvet, silk, glorious prints. Where is MJ going with this? Only he knows. Cheeky fellow that he is, he politely asks in tempos from somber to sanguine via that lone tune playing throughout the show, “Who will buy?” (There must be someone who will buy.) This is an enigmatic collection layered in a conundrum. Bets are MJ devotees will be circumspect in their choices.

OTHER MENTIONABLES – Betsey Johnson is growing up. Off to the Oscars for Zang Toi. As elegant as ever is Carolina Herrera. Welcome to la grande mela Prete& Bruno. More shortly, meanwhile enjoy the pictures and the MJ video.

Jenny Packham & Zang Toi
Photos by Mike Coppola and Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Bibhu Mohapatra & Yeohlee
Photos by Frazer Harrison and Andy Kropa/Getty Images.

Betsey Johnson (work & play)
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

On Deck today, Day 6: Alexandre Herchcovitch, Ankar Sweden, Carmelita Couture, Badgley Mischka, Dennis Basso, Diesel Black Gold, Emerson, Fotini, Ghassan Yazbeck, Haus Alkire, J. Crew, Josie Natori, Malan Breton, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Naeem Khan, Narciso Rodriguez, Norisol Ferrari, Oscar de La Renta, Pamella Roland, Rodarte, Sophie Theallet, Tory Burch, Vera Wang

Visit http://http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 5 NYFW: Retiring Collection From Retiring Lady?

For Spring 2011, Betsey Johnson goes burlesque and more demure. Betsey Johnson photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

HEAD’S UP: I repeat, it is officially a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. It should go without saying, but it shan’t – this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because a body can’t be everywhere. But, of course, depend on one’s best effort. Drum roll, please …

Day 5
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere):
Alexandre Herchcovitch, Alexandre Plokhov, Araks, Bebe, Betsey Johnson, Callula Lilibelle, Carlos Miele, Carolina Herrera, Chris Benz, Creatures of the Wind, Donna Karan New York, Edite Showroom designers, Jad Ghandour, Jenny Packman, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Norman Ambrose, Ohne Titel, Pamella Roland, Perry Ellis, Rachel Roy, Rachel Zoe, Rebecca Minkoff, Reem Acra, Thom Browne, Victoria by Victoria Beckham, Vlov_ Qingqing Wu, Yeohlee, Zero + Maria Cornejo


BOY, were tongues awagging after the Betsey Johnson show yesterday. Hardcore fans loved it. Some thought it boring, while others observed that she had the prettiest models.

A goodly number declared it the most accessible show BJ has staged in some time.
“Who wears those clothes,” one wag grunted, referring to the BJ of most seasons past. “I can see someone buying these.”

Amongst the scuttlebutt, too, is the sinister notion that BJ has gone totally commercial. “She has all of these tie-ins because she’s planning her retirement,” sniffed a wag who knows such things. “Those weren’t clothes, it was all lingerie!”

Actually, BJ does have a licensing deal with Intimates Carole Hochmann Design Group, and the company is listed as one of the licensees in her program. Further, Betsey Johnson LLC has more than a dozen licencing agreements. This comprises legwear, jewelry, swimwear, timepieces, outerwear and signature fragrance. All were on the runway or in the swag bag.


Regardless of the view one takes, Spring 2012 is one of BJ’s most subdued and approachable collections. Ironically, it takes a lot of inspiration from burlesque, yet it is quite chaste and often enough cleverly so. BJ put a tight reign on herself, to use a phrase. Did she do it to keep the cops from the door or to get customers into the door?

More shortly on the BJ saga and the rest of goings-on, including “best overall show,” from day 5 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2012. For now enjoy photos of some of the day’s offerings.

Yeohlee
Photos by Joe Kohen/Getty Images.

Perry Ellis
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Jenny Packham
Photos by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images.

Norman Ambrose
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Donna Karan New York
Photos by Mike Coppola/Getty Images.

Carolina Herrera
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Carlos Miele
Photos by Ileana Garcia Jacolow/ASJAIS Images.

On deck today, Day 6: Michael Angel, Tory Burch, J.Crew, Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, Zang Toi, Diesel Black Gold, Bibhu Mohapatra, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Argentine Designers, Improvd, Tibi, Narciso Rodriguez, Heatherette, Malan Breton

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and to see live and taped streams of the shows.

Day 5 NYFW: Luxury, Whimsy & Rock 'n' Roll

Rust abstract print organza gown from the Fall 2011 Carolina Herrera collection. Photo from Getty Images.

HEAD’S UP: It’s now a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. This go round Yours Truly has a wingwoman in the person of Dame Francesca Simon. Even with two of us, though, we really, really can’t be everywhere. But we will be where something is happening and will keep you in the loop. Drum roll, please …

Day 5
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Alice + Olivia, Betsey Johnson, Carlos Miele, Carolina Herrera, Chado Ralph Rucci, Callula Lilibelle, Chris Benz, Creatures of the Wind, Donna Karan New York, Guishem, Jenny Packham, Marc Jacobs, Monique Lhuillier, Pamella Roland, Sachin + Babi, The Row, Theyskens' Theory, Tracy Reese, Zero + Maria Cornejo

THE name behind one of the strongest collections on one of the best days of Fashion Week is Carolina Herrera. One word that fairly describes the collection is luxurious. This is true of everything from the dark gray wool flannel A-line skirt/black turtleneck w/wing cuffs combo for day to the rust abstract print organza gown for evening. Clever touches such as exaggerated cuffs on the aforementioned turtleneck and superior fabrics set the tone.

More from Carolina Herrrera and Day 5 shortly. Meanwhile see shows/highlights: http://www.mbfashionweek.com/

On a Grand Tour With a Girl at Heart

Betsey Johnson, left, has New York travel on her mind for Spring 2011. For a visit to the Seaport, at least two recommendations, below. Jaclyn Smith, bottom, celebrates a special anniversary with a certain discounter. Photos from Getty Images.

Just like last time, the plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Mind, this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because I can’t be everywhere. But depend on it, I’ll do my best. Drum roll, please …

Day 5
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): William Tempest, Jenny Packman, Carolina Herrera, Carlos Miele, Diesel Black Gold, Tracy Reese, Donna Karan New York, Monique Lhuillier, Yeohlee, Herchcovitch Alexandre, Betsey Johnson, Leifsdottir, Perry Ellis

MOST FUN SHOW
BETSEY JOHNSON - Is there any doubt that the incomparable, irrepressible, irresistible Betsey Johnson will not put on a good show? For Spring 2011, BJ goes on “Le Tour de Betsey.” It starts in Brooklyn, winds its way to The Met, then swings west to Central Park and into Betsey’s New York stores for appropriate traveling clothes. This is a grand tour of New York City, after all. To look one's best, some must-haves: bike shorts, belly-bearing cropped tights, bustiers, ball gowns, tutus, tiaras, prairie dresses w/hoop skirts, striped thigh-highs, garden party dresses to put Scarlett O’Hara to shame, cinched-waist black coat with batwing lapels, leather and lace, this and that.

Tricked out in a sailor's uniform (short or trousers), for instance, the tour winds southeast to the Seaport before journeying north to the final destination at Times Square. The lavendar, strapless mermaid gown w/tulle hem is just the thing to wear to see the ball drop on New Year’s Day. All along the tour music is blaring: “Ride Me Hard,” “Double Trouble,” “Cruisin’ for a Bruisin’, Babe in a Barrel, “Lacey Lynn,” “Officer,” “Gentleman” and so on.

As a finale, not only does BJ do a cartwheel, she cruises down the runway on a bike to where her daughter and granddaughter are seated to the beats of “Slow Rider.” The crowd erupts into applause and whistles. It rises up again when the models return to the runway waving b&w checkered flags and wearing yellow – a la a certain other tour – dresses bearing “Le Tour de Betsey” logo.

What a party!

BEHOLD, AN ANGEL
JACLYN SMITH – “No alcohol, no cigarettes, no drugs – clean living.”

From Jaclyn Smith’s mouth to your ears, ladies (and gentlemen). That is the secret to looking good at 62. That is the secret to looking 35 at 62. That is the secret to having the body of a 20-something at 62.

“I’m also a ballerina, and you never loose that need to be moving,” she gives me to know. “You are always taking two steps at a time.”

Ladies (and gentlemen), exercise is also a key to looking good at 62, and just about any age.

JS, my favorite of “Charlie’s Angels" – and I tell her so – is at the new/sleek/swank Gansevoort Park Hotel for Conde Nast’s reception honoring the 25th anniversary of her Kmart clothing line.

“It is a culmination of everything we have been doing for 25 years,” she says of the inspiration for the approximately dozen on-season pieces. “We went back and looked at what we’d done and pulled them together to make them look modern … “Isn’t this great,” she asks, gesturing to the (faux?) leather skirt and sleeveless top w/(faux?) silk blizzard top she’s wearing. “And it’s all under $100.”

From Jaclyn Smith's mouth to your ears.