MBFW Day 2: Carmen Marc Valvo Sets Silver Standard; Nicole Miller's Brazilian Vacation; At Cadet, They're Watching ...

A model wearing Carmen Marc Valvo, right, who is a celebratory mood. Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

HEADS UP: It's early September and that means one important thing in the ragtrade: fashion trade shows. To that end, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2015. As we at VEVLYN'S PEN endeavor to bring some interesting fashion news to our dear readers, we don't mind changing with the seasons. One small tweak this season, each day one (perhaps two) designers/labels will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy. Thank you for your support!

Day 2
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): A DÉTACHER, BILLY REID, CADET, CARMEN MARC, VALVO, CHADWICK BELL, CHARLOTTE RONSON, CUSHNIE ET OCHS, GREGORY PARKINSON, HELMUT LANG KATE SPADE NEW YORK, KATIE GALLAGHER, KELLY WEARSTLER, JASON WU, JENNI KAYNE, LYN DEVON, NICOLE MILLER, PIERRE BALMAIN, RAG & BONE, REBECCA MINKOFF, SALLY LAPOINTE, ST. JOHN, SAUNDER, SUNO, TESS GIBERSON, THE ELDER STATESMAN, TOCCA, TOMMY HILFIGER, TRIBUNE STANDARD, YIGAL AZROUËL

“I feel really invigorated, ” Carmen Marc Valvo tells Yours Truly a couple of days ago when I inquire after his general well-being, two days before his Spring-Summer 2015 show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, his 25th anniversary show.

For Spring-Summer 2015, he has silver on the brain for obvious reasons. Another source of inspiration is his garden, for him a beautiful place that has provided inspiration, solace and healing.

During our chat a couple of days ago after the “Salute the Runway” (http://www.bit.ly/1upn8q8), which featured one of his designs, he mentioned that SS 2015 would be heavy on silver. But he also invoked words such as“Americana,” “polished” and “sleek.” (See video below).

He did not over sell it. Silver fairly shimmers and is at its zenith in the form of the silver leather and double face silk organza gown.

The sleekness is most evident in well-placed flesh-toned mesh that gives the illusion of bare skin. A case in point is the black silk gazaar cocktail dress. Like several other pieces, it has cutouts about the upperbody, mainly around the shoulder area and under the arms, along the obliques. Here is a way to show skin without being vulgar.

As for polish, the whole collection is polished, even the inexplicable booties, which are best described as demure swimsuits. Surprisingly, though, polish is most apparent in the few men's pieces. Yes, menswear is part of CMV SS 2015. No doubt part of the expansion that he alluded to in our little tête-à-tête .

The first men's piece out of the gate is a black organza tuxedo shirt (tucked into black jeans). Organza is an arresting sight on a man; it is also done in white. The black embroidered tuxedo is sublime.

CMV does not have the look of a man who is plagued by worries. On the contrary, he appears carefree, with a very good reason.

“There are a lot of great things happening with the company, with Carmen Marc Valvo,” he says. “It's [25-year anniversary] a milestone … we have new offices … new energy.”

And it shows.

SNAPSHOT: NICOLE MILLER
Nicole Miller is inspired by a Brazilian vacation for Spring-Summer 2015. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

HOW to explain it? For Spring-Summer 2015 Nicole Miller must be feeling a little melancholy because Brazil was humiliated in the 2014 Fifa World Cup. How else to explain this lethargic collection, inspired by the idea of a Brazilian vacation.

The country is in mourning after spending billions on the games and to be dismissed without a cup victory. And then there is the matter of much of its citizenry lacking a pot to piss in. This is the atmosphere that NM is entering with her print motif. Depressing business all around.

The colors are bright, as one would expect. Alas they lack energy and vitality, particularly the orchid jungle series. In a collection that leans heavily on blindingly bright colors, the one that makes the best impression is white. The white viscose crepe godet dress with puckering on the front is a little showstopper.

Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Similarly, the metal dress with ruffle in tomato, a color that looks like pale watermelon, is ready for carnival! The color alone has the power to lift the mood of a nation.

Another bright spot, which is more reminiscent of NM of seasons past is the exuberant pineapple jacquard series. The print is aligned along the arms and legs against a solid background. It suggests that the depression is lifting, that this has been a good day.

Despite the blues at NM for SS 2015, the designer must be commended for her shoe selection. The bright-colored, open-toe strappy sandals have a chunky heel that is, max, four inches.

If nothing else, the Nicole Miller girl will have happy feet.

STYLING BARBIE
THE hottest party last night had to be the CFDA Barbie party. That is not to mean hip and happening, though it was a little of both. It was held outside at the plaza in a tent set up at the intersection of 14th Street and 9th Avenue.

If Rebecca Taylor can design an out for Barbie, so can Yours Truly. Photo by Yours Truly.

It was probably about 80 degrees outside the tent and 90 degrees inside. There was a crush, and the fans at either end of the tents were blowing hot air. Necks were craning, elbows were rubbing and mobile phones were snapping or trying to snap one of the live and lifesize Barbies standing behind glass panels.

The models were got up in dresses designed by Charlotte Ronson, Cynthia Vincent, Rebecca Taylor, Tess Giberson and WHIT. Alas, they are not for sale.

Over in a corner away from the crowd was a bank of iPads on which anybody who wanted to could create an outfit for their own personal Barbie,

In any case, Yours Truly created an outfit for my Barbie. Disclaimer: That pink necklace is part of the Barbie promotion and could not be removed. Still, you get the gist of the outfit. Whaddaya think?

WELCOME TO GOTHAM, BORIS BIDJAN SABERI
I can't take my eyes off of this guy. I've made my way to the flagship store opening of the Boris Bidjan Saberi on Greenwich street.

That's saying something, considering the room is full of stylish downtowners, the kind of people who look super cool and who don't venture above 14th Street unless they have a very good reason. Business strategist Jey Van-Sharp – that is his name – is wearing a white shirt and dark jeans.

Jey Van-Sharp in some lost and found garb. Photo by Yours Truly.

The abbreviated-button down, wrap shirt is long and asymetrical On his feet are black sneakers with a pristine-white band on the toe area. The white of the shirt and the white on the tip of the sneaker play off of each other. (Both are from Lost and Found Ria Dunn, http://www.lostandfounddesign.net/)

How to describe this getup? J-S is rocking it.

On Deck today, Day 3: ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY, ADAM LIPPES, ALEXANDER WANG, ALON LIVNÉ, ALTUZARRA, BAJA EAST, BILLY REID, CHRISTIAN SIRIANO, DESIGNERS’ REVIEW, EDIE PARKER, EVA FEHREN, JILL STUART, KATYA LEONOVICH, KOONHOR, LACOSTE, LIE SANGBONG, LUIS ANTONIO, MALAN BRETON, MAX AZRIA, PRABAL GURUNG, PRISM BY ANNA LAUB, RALPH RUCCI, ROBERT GELLER, SON JUNG WAN, VENEXIANA

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

MBFW Day 2: Bohemians, Rebels, Vixens and Meditations on '90s

HEAD’S UP: It's Fashion Week, baby! Who's ready? We're ready! And we have a slight tweak to share. Of course, we still endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly&Co. witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. The tweak has been inspired by Twitter. The coverage will focus, as has become the custom, on what truly inspires or what is so painfully hideous that it is remarkable. However, we will tell that story in 50 words or less. Yes, 50. Or less. Ready? Let the games begin ...

Day 2
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Academy of Art University, Argentine Designers, Billy Reid, Carmen Marc Valvo, Chadwick Bell, Cushnie et Ochs, Duckie Brown, Fashion Law Institute, Gregory Parkinson, Helmut Lang, HFR, Jason Wu, Jenni Kayne, Kate Spade New York, Lyn Devon, Mark and Estel, Misha Nonoo, Nautica, Noon by Noor, Peter Som, Project Runway, Rachel Roy, Rag & Bone, Rebecca Minkoff, Rodebjer, Rubin & Chapelle, Sally Lepointe, Suno, Tess Giberson, Todd Snyder, Tome, VPL, Zimmermann

A day of surprises from Carmen Marc Valvo and Rebecca Minkoff, while Cushnie et Ochs did a fine job of editing. Elsewhere, Nautica decided to keep it moving.

Nicole Miller
Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

CONTRASTS fairly summed up in "Power Meets Pretty" and "the gardens of Versailles / storming the castle." Clever prints and surprising combos, all well-crafted. - YOURS TRULY

Carmen Marc Valvo
Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

MYRIAD references: tribal patterns, paillettes, elongated torsos, transparency. Contributor Neil Wolfson called it: "Well done, but nothing exciting." - YOURS TRULY

Rebecca Minkoff
Photos courtesy of Frazer Harrison/Getty Images and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
DRESSES were fine, with lots of loft to the longer silhouettes, but Ouch, my feet hurt. Gladiator meets Barbarella. - MARIE T. DRISCOLL

INSPIRED by fierce Latin bohemians like Frida Kahlo, the collection is RM's best to date. Where can a body get those gladiator sandals?!?! - YOURS TRULY (See video above, including performance by Janelle Monae).

Black Sail by Nautica
Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

THE latest iteration of this nautical inspired brand incorporates tonal color blocking and asymmetrical piecing for the modern waterman- authentic performance with a metro twist. Loved the matte trench and the Vans shoes (aviator sunglasses too)! Definitely taken to the next level by designer Chris Cox. - MARIE T. DRISCOLL

THE label's first runway show in several seasons, but honestly, it was hard to concentrate on the clothes. - YOURS TRULY

On Deck today, Day 3: Alexander Wang, Alexandre Herchcovitch, Allen Kersten and Monsieur Belange, Altuzarra, Calla, Carlos Alberto Haute Couture, Charlotte Ronson, Christian Siriano, Cynthia Rowley, Designers Collective, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Jen Kao, Jill Stuart, Jonathan Simkhai, Katya Leonovich, Kenneth Cole Collection, Lacoste, Louise Goldin, Malan Breton, Mara Hoffman, Monique Lhuillier, Ostwald Helgason, Prabal Gurung, Rebecca Taylor, Robert Geller, Ruffian, Son Jung Wan, Tibi, Venexiana

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

MBFW Day 2: Snow, Shows and Shoes All Went On

HEAD’S UP: That turnaround between September and February always seems short. One is in the middle of the Yuletide season when the notice arrives about registering for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York! Well, here we are at Fall 2013 and a small change in the VEVLYN’S PEN approach to covering Fashion Week. We will still put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits. We will also continue to endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Now, for the changes. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” as we on 7 Feb. (http://www.vevlynspen.com/2013/02/mbfw-day-1-snapshot-todd-snyders.html). We will also comment on particular pieces from a collection that capture our imagination. Finally, at VEVLYN’S PEN, coverage may take the form of photos with comments underneath, including whether the picture subject tends toward a trend. How’s that? OK, off we go!

Day 2
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): A DÉTACHER, BILLY REID, CARMEN MARC VALVO, CHADWICK BELL, CHARLOTTE RONSON, CUSHNIE ET OCHS, GREGORY PARKINSON, HELMUT LANG KATE SPADE NEW YORK, KATIE GALLAGHER, KELLY WEARSTLER, JASON WU, JENNI KAYNE, LYN DEVON, NICOLE MILLER, PIERRE BALMAIN, RAG & BONE, REBECCA MINKOFF, SALLY LAPOINTE, ST. JOHN, SUNO, TESS GIBERSON, THE ELDER STATESMAN, TOCCA, TOMMY HILFIGER, TRIBUNE STANDARD, YIGAL AZROUËL

IT takes more than the threat of a blizzard to stop fashion in its six-inch heel tracks, as was proved yesterday when virtually all of the shows were on the runways and other venues as scheduled. Only one known cancellation: TU . BE by Sara Zanobi, which was postponed to 13 Feb.

The band (background) stole the show at Rebecca Minkoff. Photos from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

In other words, the show sites were packed, right up through Parkchoonmoo and Billy Reid at 9 p.m.

On Day 2 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, Noon by Noor made up for run-of-the mill designs with nice fabrics, which were stitched well enough ... The usual abundance of pretty, gorgeous, beautiful men at Nautica – who really cares what they are wearing? Well, perhaps a body would care what they are wearing.

In any case, it is what it is and it is Nautica, sure and steady – no rocking the boat ... The band, Wild Cub, is rocking out at Rebecca Minkoff. Alas, not in time with the beat is the designer’s well-intentioned effort to elevate grunge by getting it booked on a futuristic journey. Listen to a wag sitting next to Yours Truly: mall clothes (not an upscale one) ...

Killing it (or trying to) in Monika Chiang.

Meanwhile, Monika Chiang was given creative energy by a recurring dream in which she takes off into flight, this paired with a MoMa (http://www.moma.org) photo exhibit featuring birds. In one particular ensemble, the bird is not in flight. Perhaps, it was taken down by force. It is not happy. It is “dressed to kill,” for it is one angry creature ...

The girlfriend is dressed in her boyfriend’s clothes in Nicole Miller’s imagination; she commandeered his closet. So that explains the chic little high-waisted skirt with back pockets! Could the boyfriend thing also explain in part why NM showed in the smaller Studio tent instead of the Stage or Theater. Could this be a metaphor for the boyfriend’s smaller closet? Or is it the economy, stupid? ...

The man makes the Nautica clothes.

Mysteries abound, including the mysterious chick tricked out in a baroque/punk Carmen Marc Valvo cocktail dress. What would that look like? Let’s see: a black ducal face stain with square patent leather tile embroidered. Could also be a leather cut cocktail dress. And it may not even be a cocktail dress as evidenced by the striped lace bodice gown with patent leather embroidery. And kindly remember the simple ivory silk and wool gown with an alligator inset detail that just takes it to another level. (See video of show above.)

“I do evening wear. I have to do me,” CMV asserted a couple days before at the H.H. Brown Børn Handbag collection launch. The designer’s first shoe line in about a decade was given a very prominent display space in that venue. (More on the shoes later). “I gotta be me,” the designer added, emphasizing this personal directive in the common vernacular.

Fabrics can make a difference as they do in the Noon by Noor Fall 2013 collection.

As he has proved season after season, CMV knows his way around evening wear. The tiles, embroidery, striped lace, leather squares and touches of alligator enticingly combine to give the garments the texture and depth that would evoke baroqueness. Of course, the nod to punk is the leather and the black. But CMV’s punk has grown a little more sophisticated but not so sophisticated that she will shed her leather. Blondie still looks cool and edgy. And … elegant.

On Deck today, Day 3: ALEXANDER WANG, ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH, ALON LIVNE, ALTUZARRA, CALLA, CHLOË SEVIGNY FOR O.C., CHRISTIAN SIRIANO, HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA, JEN KAO, JILL STUART, JONATHAN SIMKHAI, KATYA LEONOVICH, LACOSTE, LIBERTINE, LOUISE GOLDIN, MARA HOFFMAN, MARISSA WEBB, MONCLER GRENOBLE, MONIQUE LHUILLIER, OSTWALD HELGASON, PRABAL GURUNG, RAFAEL CENNAMO, RAIF ADELBERG, REBECCA TAYLOR, ROBERT GELLER, RODEBJER, RUFFIAN, SECOND/LAYER, SON JUNG WAN, TIBI, VENEXIANA, VPL

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

MBFW Day 2: Brilliant Color & Spotlight on Omar Salam

HEAD’S UP: Continuing the approach we adopted commencing with the Fall 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, VEVLYN'S PEN will put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway, rather than a sort of “best of the lot, even if it’s not that good.” Why the change? Simply put, we have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires, we will tell you so and tell you why. We still endeavor, however, to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

Day 2
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Fashion Law Institute, Czar by Cesar Galindo, Harlem's Fashion Row, Project Runway, Concept Korea, W118 by Walter Baker, Rebecca Minkoff, Pamella Roland, Tommy Hilfiger, Nicole Miller, Todd Snyder, Charlotte Ronson, ELLE Fashion/NEXT, Academy of Art University, Parkchoonmoo, Kara Ross, Project Runway, Concept Korea, Helmut Lang (See video of full show above), Noon by Noor, Erin Barr,Rafael Cennamo, Rubin & Chapelle, Sally LaPointe, Sherri Hill, Elena Vasilevsky

PRESSED to identify a trend from the second day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, one could make a strong case for a bright spring.

A really bright spring. Quite brilliant, actually. It was very much in evidence at W118 by Walter Baker, Helmut Lang, Sally LaPointe, Concept Korea, Noon by Noor and particularly at Sherri Hill, where the colors were sometimes blinding.

The day also played host to some really strong collections. One did not get the feeling that the designers called them in. Old lionesses (meant with the utmost respect) like Nicole Miller are always reliable in this regard. Spring-Summer 2013 is no exception.

On the runway at the site of the project: Heidi Klum, Michael Kors, Jennifer Hudson and Nina Garcia. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Usually the cutting edge and innovative are palpable in group shows. That helped the day, too. Good examples are Concept Korea and Fashion Law Institute.

It’s a great pleasure to report that because it was a good day there is a best overall show. The numbers are still being tallied. The frontrunner of the moment, however, is Omar Salam a bookish-looking young gent who knows his way around lace and layers and tulle and tucks. The emerging artist presented his collection as part of Harlem’s Fashion Row to an audience, including Natalie Cole and Vanessa L. Williams, that may have clapped its palm raw. It was that kind of collection.

In other developments, there is good news of a certain, former New York housewife. She is a very nice gal who deserves every good thing that comes, including therapy … More shortly, meanwhile enjoy the picture show.

On Deck today, Day 3:  Ruffian, Marissa Webb, Lacoste, Jill Stuart, Son Jung Wan, Mm6 Maison Martin, Margiela, Edun, Nina Skarra, Mara Hoffman, Marlon Gobel, Rafael Cennamo, Hervé Léger By Max Azria, Katya Leonovich, Vlov - Qingqing Wu, Monique Lhuillier, Venexiana, Christopher Esber, E L L E R Y, Mason Sylvester


Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 2 Pictorial
Charlotte Ronson
Photos by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images.

Concept Korea
Photos by Mike Coppola/Getty Images.

Czar by Cesar Galindo
Photos by Mike Coppola/Getty Images.

Fashion Law Institute
Photos by Astrid Stawiarz/Getty Images.

Nicole Miller
Photos by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images.

Noon by Noor
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Pamella Roland
Photos by Larry Busacca/Getty Images.

Rebecca Minkoff
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Tommy Hilfiger
Photos by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images.

W118 by Walter Baker
Photos by Mike Coppola/Getty Images.

Day 3 NYFW: Better Days Ahead and Good Evenings

The Venexiana Spring 2012 collection of evening wear is large and lovely.

HEAD’S UP: I repeat, it is officially a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. It should go without saying, but it shan’t – this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because a body can’t be everywhere. But, of course, depend on one’s best effort. Drum roll, please …

Day 3
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere: ADAM, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, Band of Outsiders, Charlotte Ronson, Christian Siriano, Duro Olowu, Erin Fetherston, Eva Minge, Farah Angsana, Graeme Armour, Gregory Parkinson, Helmut Lang, Honor, Jill Stuart, Lacoste, Libertine, Lyn Devon, Monique Lhuillier, Pink Tartan, Rafael Cennamo, Son Jung Wan, Prabal Gurung, Ruffian, Venexiana, Vivienne Tam, VPL

IT seems to be on the same trajectory of a fine wine.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2012 is getting better with age. Day 3 is the best so far. As with Day 2, the committee is intensely discussing who merits “best overall show,” or say, “best interpretation” of a vision.” It is not difficult to imagine that Vivienne Tam will figure in the talks for her insightful meditations on a Chinese garden. One contender for the latter award is Alexander Wang who infused the NASCAR vibe into some cool street and club clothes. He is not the only one inspired by sports. There is Nicole Miller, a contender for Day 2 “best overall show” (http:/www./bit.ly/n5Qys5) for her exploration of wheels, while Altuzarra may have on the brain any number of sports – sky-diving, piloting, track&field; perhaps NASCAR, too. Leading indicators suggest that a trend is emerging.

While these are questions yet to be settled, there is consensus that an HONORABLE MENTION be awarded to Venexiana for evening wear. Somehow, designer Kati Stern makes it look fresh every season. She opened with a trio of gown from the red family: pink, fuchsia and Bordeaux. One is adorned with Swarovski crystals, two others have embroidery. All are gorgeous.

Vivienne Tam for Spring 2012 is evocative of a garden. Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

In a collection of 71 – yes 71 – gowns and dresses, KS commanded the attention with good fabrics, great colors and impeccable work with folds, beading and embroidery. A bronze tulle evening gown is embroidered into a spiderweb design with beading and Swarovski crystals. Any number of the pieces have such inventive detailing in a collection that has only a paucity of hiccups.

The Swarovski detail on the front of a red strapless gown suggests that the “overflow” is a baby bump. Likewise, a voluminous pleated ruffled gown wants shearing. Most at Venexiana, however, is smashing, in the spirit of the self-possessed bone/gold chiffon one-shoulder embroidered gown with a cut-out on the shoulder … More from Day 3 shortly.

On deck today, Day 4: Katya Leonovich, Lela Rose, Derek Lam, DKNY, Tracy Reese, L.A.M.B., Diane von Furstenberg, Jen Kao, Y-3, Guishem, Custo Barcelona, Tommy Hilfiger, Timo Weiland

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ and http://

Day 2 NYFW: We're in the Money! ... (Metallic Strike)

Rag & Bones likes layers for Spring 2012. Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images.

HEAD’S UP: I repeat, it is officially a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. It should go without saying, but it shan’t – this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because a body can’t be everywhere. But, of course, depend on one’s best effort. Drum roll, please …

Day 2
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Billy Reid, Christian Cota, Costello Tagliapietra, Mara Hoffman, Paola Hernandez, Emerson, Falguni & Shane Peacock, Cynthia Rowley, Doo.Ri, Jason Wu, Luca Luca, Mandy Coon, NAHM, Nicole Miller, Peter Som, Rag & Bone, Rebecca Taylor, The Row, Tess Giberson, United Bamboo, Yigal Azrouël, General Idea.

WHAT a difference a day has made at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2012!

On Day 1, there was a pronounced lack of verve, vivacity, vision. You name it, it wasn’t there. Some 24 hours later there is an embarrassment of riches. Whereas before, there could be no “best overall show” designation, for instance, now there is too much from which to choose.

Speeding wheels got Nicole Miller going for Spring 2012. Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images.

Is it Nicole Miller who is best overall for letting it rip on wheels – possibly a skateboard as translated in stripes aplenty or bright multi-colored leggings that the blind can see? What of Peter Som’s arresting florals and partial nod to 60s style? Keep in mind, too, that Rag & Bone layered it on moderately – take note Nicholas K – with inspiration from hither and yon. Further, Cynthia Rowley’s exploration/excavation of metallica, including a gold metallic runway, has to be given its due consideration.

The committee is in intense discussion. Do standby. Meanwhile, there are other observations to make …

BEST PRESENTATION FORMAT – For Spring 2012, the cerebral Paola Hernandez is considering “the intersection between the physical and the spiritual” in a deceptively simplistic capsule collection called “Meeting Point.” Indeed, there is dichotomy throughout, whether it is manifested in solids as a metaphor for the material/tangible or sheers representing clarity. It’s visible in fluid silhouettes created from soft, light fabrics and the designer’s clunk-yish oxfords, pumps and moccasins shoes. In such an intellectual milieu models insouciantly sit and recline on chaise lounges, sipping a cocktail of hibiscus flower, tea and tequila or reading Albert Camus’ “The Stranger.”

The General Idea Spring 2012 collection includes some ideas that a number of men may not embrace. More on that shortly. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

BEST USE OF COLOR – “Mexican Mamas” such as the painter, Frida Kahlo (who was wonderfully depicted in the 2002 film, “Frida” starring Salma Hayek) inform Mara Hoffman for Spring 2012. In a collection of maxi dresses, pants, tops and new shapes that are marked by intermittent beading, embroidery and weaving, it is the colors that make a bold statement. Without the color, this would be an unremarkable collection. However, MH has a keen eye and sense of color. Incidentally, the prints were made in-house. The pinks, reds, turquoises and secondary colors of one sleeveless maxi dress are very muscular. Deep and bold they are, commanding the attention without uttering a word or casting about for light to draw attention to themselves. It is difficult to avert the gaze. The color scheme extends to the chunky, tiered mulit-colored necklaces, too. They speak most emphatically of Mexico. Such a necklace presented with a simple black halter gown makes for a stunning ensemble.

BEST HAIR – Hands down it is Falguni & Shane Peacock. On some heads the myriad hairpins, whether black or gold are arranged like fingerwaves. What a sight! How clever. Very inventive and artistic. The trivia question of the day is how many hairpins did it take to create that ‘do? 50? 200? Keep guessing.

Color plays a big role in the Mara Hoffman Spring 2012 collection. Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images.

FROM THE HORSE’S MOUTH – Backstage at Nicole Miller there is Richie Rich (Heatherette). Hugs and kisses, he drops his little bombshell, now he takes a sip of Champagne (or is this simply sparkling wine from Oregon). “We decided today that we’re having a show Tuesday, says RR, nodding at the handsome young man standing beside him whom he introduced as his partner (business or life, it’s not clear). “It’s at Lavo (http://www.lavony.com/). You have to come.”

After last year’s spectacle with Ellen Degeneres, ballerinas, a dominatrix, and sundry other entertainments – indeed, one must come.

On deck today, Day 3: Ruffian, Lacoste, Pink Tartan, Jill Stuart, Son Jung Wan, Adam, Vivienne Tam, Farah Angsana, Honor, Charlotte Ronson, Monique Lhuillier, Rafael Cennamo, Eva Minge, Venexiana

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ and http://

Away From the Center/Embracing Sleek Curves

Nicole Miller, left, has more edge this season. Below in descening order: Georges Chakra's vision is impressive. BCBG Max Azria cleans up nicely. Nautica knows it's man, while 3.1 Phillip Lim swings both ways. Nautica photo by Yours Truly; all others from Getty Images.

Just like last time, the plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Mind, this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because I can’t be everywhere. But depend on it, I’ll do my best. Drum roll, please …

Day 2
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Peter Som, BCBG Maz Azria, Duckie Brown, Rag & Bone, Michael Angel, Jason Wu, Edition by Georges Chakra, Costello Tagliapietra, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Ports 1961, DOO.RI, Alexander Berardi, Nicole Miller, Risto, Academy of Art University, Josie Natori, Tadashi Shoji, Lorick, Buckler

BEST IN SHOW
NICOLE MILLER – One gets the impression that the last few seasons Nicole Miller has been strategically inching her way toward the edge. For Spring 2010, she experimented with riptides successfully. The spawn of the riptide could be this latest collection. The designer has arrived at the edge and is in her element. The color scheme of b&w and various shades of gray evokes a moodiness. It is brightened, however, by generous use of chiffon and linen. Now and again georgette invokes itself. Themes of S&M in the form of black bands/straps complete an engaging tableau, including white linen jacket, chiffon trousers and white boat-neck shirt with a series of black bands on front. A winner is a white chiffon shirt w/b&w rounded bands over a black linen high-waisted skirt. Underneath is a black bra w/black halter straps and a connector strap. In the office, one will want to wear a blazer. On the town, sans blazer, it is eye-catching, with showstopping potential. The line is sexy, sophisticated and in good taste Only a very few pieces seem to belong elsewhere. Perhaps, the self-conscious black vest/shorts/dropped shoulder blouse and also the dowdiness that is the belted black dress with slouched bodice with chiffon underlay represent a moment of panic and indecision, for the edge can be intimidating.

BEST INTERPRETATION OF A VISION
EDITIIONS GEORGES CHAKRA – The Absolute World 1 tower, a residential development in Ontario, Canada, has been nicknamed Marilyn Monroe because of its sensual curving design. It is a beautiful building, and it is no surprise that it has the power to capture the imagination of a designer as it has that of Georges Chakra’s for his Spring 2011 Edition by Georges Chakra collection. He hits the mark in a collection of evening dresses and gowns in the season’s most popular colors. They are heavy on folds and panels that evoke the balcony overhangs on the tower. Here and there are a few panel combinations that are simply too busy.
And as someone who knows about such things wisely pointed out, more thought should have been given to how some of those panels about the hips will treat the physiques of those who wear double-digit sizes. In the main, however, GC hits the mark. A few gowns are constructed to create a flow that shows the imprint of the walker’s leg from the very top to the very bottom. It perfectly captures the curve in the tower that extends outward from its top before cascading into a slight twist.

BEST USE OF PRINTS
MICHAEL ANGEL – An argument can be made to not credit Michael Angel with the nod for best prints since graphics is his strong suit. True. A valid counter-argument, however, is that he should not be penalized for doing well. I concur with the latter. MA’s prints for Spring 2011 are simply wonderful. A standout is the demure sleeveless gray/burgundy/graphite dropped waist dress (w/thigh reveal) w/white shirt collar. He wanted to use prints, and to keep it simple, too. His solution was to use asymmetrical thigh-revealing skirt – many in solid colors. He also uses layers of leather, twill and in some cases latex to create a peekaboo effect, cleverly obscuring the more sensitive body parts. Mostly, he succeeds, though it may be useful in future to employ other minimalist elements besides thigh-revealing asymmetry to obscure any repetitiveness.

BEST LITTLE WHITE DRESSES
BCBG MAX AZRIA – Is it one’s imagination or have recent BCBG Max Azria collections been a little too close to trashy than sassy? If that is the case, Max and Lubov Azria have atoned for their shortcomings. For Spring 2011, things are more chaste – symbolized perhaps by the profusion of white dresses that opened the show. A side note: There is not much color here, and what appears is from the yellow, pink, and of course, black families ... One of the first fashion lessons that many young women in the West learn is to have at least one little black dress. It’s time that she’s also taught the merits of adding a white one to her wardrobe – one of BCBG’s. Fetching little affairs mainly in silk and chiffon with little embellishment apart from asymmetry, sleeve treatments or a subtle print.

MOST ADROGYNOUS COLLECTION
3.1 PHILLIP LIM (Men’s) – Does Philip Lim even need present his women’s show on Wednesday? It would be almost pointless to do so, no? Women who don’t have need of another dress/gown can easily shop the men’s line with perhaps only minor adjustments. The color story is mainly black, white and sky blue. Without a doubt, the jackets are bisexual. Loose-fitting shirts have a flow that lend them a blousey-feel. Some shorts are above the knee; others are or longish, but tapered enough to attract a woman’s attention ... Something to think about, ladies.

MOST EVOCATIVE HAIR
ALEXANDER BERARDI – It says something about Alexander Berardi that the inspiration for his Spring 2011 line is Jean Seberg in Jean-Luc Godard’s “Breathless” (1960) also starring Jean-Paul Belmondo. The two are a bad boy and a good girl on the run from the law. Note that his inspiration was not the 1983 remake starring Richard Gere and Valérie Kaprisky. One thing it says is that he appreciates history, an important and often overlooked one in fashion. An admirable trait in one so young. The 24-year-old designer’s understated, girly pieces do good by JS’s Patricia Franchini. It is the hair, though that is most evocative. Patricia sports a pixie with an invisible side part with her hair styled in a backward sweep. AB pays homage while keeping it modern by giving the models a side part and a side ponytail.

BEST HOST
NAUTICA – Nautica used the Library for the Performing Arts at Lincoln Center to introduce its new line in a presentation format. Spring 2011 is informed by both the spirit of water and the people/architecture of the country’s Southern coast. Guests are warmly greeted by the Nautica people and two nice spreads – 20-something of the most handsome men on earth and, healthful and welcome tables of eats: hummus, pita, crudite, tea sandwiches and sweets. Here, too, are passed foods in the form of veggie samosas and, salmon-wrapped asparagus (or were those haricots verts) and prosciutto-wrapped asparagus. On a fuller stomach one can really see the line and chat amicably with the young men wearing it. Like Nicholas K, Nautica is not attempting to reinvent the wheel. It knows its core customer and wishes to give said customer more of what he likes to wear on land and sea. He can choose from any combination or stripes and solids/stripes or solids. That taupe, ribbed cardigan will come in handy on cool coastal nights. For dress up there are crisp, low-maintenance suits, as well as jackets and slacks that complement each other rather than match. A colleague and I agree that both straight and gay men will shop the line, though they most definitely will put things together differently.

FASHION’S NIGHT OUT NOTEBOOK:
OVERVIEW – With so many Fashion’s Night Out parties where is one to start? Counting on being tired, I decided that I would stay close to home on the Upper East Side. For me that meant the shops on Madison and Fifth avenues from the high 50s up to the low 80s. I spent most of my time in the 60s. I boarded the Fashion’s Night Out bus and was deposited at Columbus Circle. From there I strolled the short distance to Bergdorf Goodman. As BF was hosting the whole of Fifth avenue, I kept it moving toward Oscar de la Renta. There I could not be received because I did not receive a special invitation. I licked my flesh wound and turned south and east toward Dennis Basso where I was warmly received and handed a glass of Veuve Clicquot to calm any frayed nerves. From there, things only got better.

EMPORIO ARMANI – Lauren Hutton regales the crowd at Emporio Armani, including Beverly Johnson (smashing in red) with tales of her times with Himself whom she met in the 70s. Some observations/claims/declarations. He was the first designer to dress stars outside of the Hollywood costumers. Remember “American Gigolo.” Remember how well Richard Gere was turned out. Remember the scene during which he lays out his clothes on the bed. LH mistakenly thought Armani would be designing her wardrobe for the film. The designer, LH declares, also created the red carpet, though “it was crappy linoleum.” And he was one of the first – if not the first – to introduce the world to fashion that didn’t originate from Paris. “Back then, there was no fashion in the United States; there was barely any in Italy. Of course, there was Valentino but he was showing in Paris … back then I was wearing jeans and T-shirts.” Armani did not like the status quo. “Don’t regular people deserve to wear clothes that look good and are well-made,” she recalls the designer saying.

CAROLINA HERRERA – Gail Simmons just blew through the doors at Carolina Herrera. Immediately, I introduce myself and congratulate her on “Top Chef: Just Desserts,” her new show debuting Wednesday (15 Sept.) on Bravo. “Thank you. It’s been a lot of fun and it’s about time we had a dessert show.” She assures me that I will become more excited about desserts after watching, and I believe her. She’d just come in from some foodie event – where did she say? Don’t remember. In any case, I ask whether she finds that when she is out at such events she is judging the food. “No,” she declares. “I’m off the clock and I just enjoy the food.” Later she buys a dress for herself and for me. Strangely, though, she leaves with both of them. Easy come, easy go … My running partner and I, along with a buddy of mine, are cooling our heels on Miss Herrera’s sofa right off of the dressing rooms. We’re watching the caricaturist and regaling each other with stories of where we’ve been the night. The highlight of Buddy’s evening is meeting/shaking hands with Naomi Campbell at Dolce&Gabbana. One is lead to make such a deduction because he retells the tale about three times in 18 minutes.

CALVIN KLEIN – The first face I see when I walk through the doors at Calvin Klein is Cynthia Nixon's. She’s chatting to some interviewer. I listen long enough to hear her jaw about how wonderful FNO is for the city. After I hear enough I venture over toward the photos on the wall by Bryan Adams,who will be performing at both 7 and 8:30. A concert might put some in the photo-buying mood, since some of the proceeds go toward charity. CN is one of the photo subjects. Dree Hemingway, daughter of Mariel, is another. And there’s Kerry Washington. Desiree Rogers. I know the name but can’t recall from where until a new acquaintance at Miss Herrera’s reminds me. “She used to work for [President Barack] Obama,” she says of the former White House Social Secretary. My acquaintance used her little sidebar with DR at CK to do some chiding.

"I told her, ‘how can you screw up a job like that’.”