Wednesday, February 13, 2013

MBFW Day 6: Grand Gesture From Oscar de la Renta



HEAD’S UP: That turnaround between September and February always seems short. One is in the middle of the Yuletide season when the notice arrives about registering for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York! Well, here we are at Fall 2013 and a small change in the VEVLYN’S PEN approach to covering Fashion Week. We will still put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits. We will also continue to endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Now, for the changes. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” as we on 7 Feb. (http://www.vevlynspen.com/2013/02/mbfw-day-1-snapshot-todd-snyders.html). We will also comment on particular pieces from a collection that capture our imagination. Finally, at VEVLYN’S PEN, coverage may take the form of photos with comments underneath, including whether the picture subject tends toward a trend. How’s that? OK, off we go!

Day 6
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): ADEAM , ARAKS, BADGLEY MISCHKA , BESPOKEN, DENNIS BASSO, DIESEL BLACK GOLD , ELIE TAHARI, J.CREW, JENNY PACKHAM, MARC BY MARC JACOBS, MICHAEL BASTIAN, MISHA NONOO, NAEEM KHAN, NARCISO RODRIGUEZ, OSCAR DE LA RENTA, PERRY ELLIS BY DUCKIE BROWN, RODARTE, SIKI IM, SOPHIE THEALLET, STEVEN ALAN, TORY BURCH, VANTAN TOKYO, VERA WANG, VICTORIA BY VICTORIA BECKHAM

LET’S
begin by stating the obvious: Of course, John Galliano helped Oscar de la Renta with his Fall 2013 collection. Seriously, does anyone think that the latter invited the former to his atelier to fetch his coffee?

ODLR is to be commended for giving JG a chance at redemption, critics and raised eyebrows be damned. It’s a little disturbing that we have reached a cultural moment where it seems that if one does an odious thing or has a dreadful lapse in judgment, then s/he is forever a pariah.

This in no way excuses JG’s alleged or outright anti-Semitic screed. Some of us must standup and reject such poppycock thinking, especially those of us who live in countries where Christianity is the dominant religion. Seriously, s/he who is without a serious lapse cast the first stone.

In any case, this is not a dissertation on religion or a sociological meditation. It wants to be a fashion commentary. Alas, occasionally fashion gets entangled in issues outside of itself. After all, it does not live in a vacuum hard as it might try.

So, it has been established that JG helped ODLR – and Yours Truly believes this JG guest residency is the beginning of a beautiful relationship. Not many others are as well-suited to takeover at ODLR when the old man steps down.

John Galliano: A man who deserves redemption. Archive photo.John Galliano: A man who deserves another chance. Archive photo.

Fortunately, there were not too many masters in the atelier, so the collection looks good. (See video above). In fact, some pieces are downright edgy. In February, it looked like ODLR was making more obvious his desire to attract younger customers. After all Barbara Walters and Barbara Bush – God bless their souls – are not going to live forever.

For fall, there is no doubt of ODLR’s intention toward this younger set. A strong case in point is the black suit with harem pants that have a cut-out on the right leg. Though the model wears nothing underneath the jacket, it doesn’t look ridiculous coming from the House of an octogenarian. Is there any doubt that JG strolled by and suggested the cutout and the braless, shirtless look for the runway? Of course, ODLR will never alienate his core customer. Those last two ball-centric gowns are fitting proof.

In closing, well done, gentleman, and kudos to you, Mr. ODLR, for a wonderful gesture toward a comrade in yarns.

On Deck today, Day 7: ANNA SUI, BIBHU MOHAPATRA, B MICHAEL AMERICA, BRANDON SUN, CLOVER CANYON, ELIZABETH AND JAMES, FALGUNI AND SHANE PEACOCK, GIULIETTA, HONORE, JEREMY SCOTT, J. MENDEL, JOIE, MARCHESANY, MICHAEL KORS, MILLY BY MICHELLE SMITH, NANETTE LEPORE, PETER SOM, PHILOSOPHY, PROENZA SCHOULER, REED KRAKOFF, THREEASFOUR, RICARDO SECO, ZANG TOI

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

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