Thursday, February 26, 2015

@ENK Coterie Day 3: Old Gringo Fairly Swaggers; Chaka Has No Boundaries; Kicking It With Dav – Rain, Shine, Sleet or Snow

From the Fall-Winter 2015 collection of Old Gringo Boots. Photos by Yours Truly.

HEADS UP: Though Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week have folded tents, closed doors, turned off lights and MBFW has hared off to Europe, there is still plenty of fashion showcasing ongoing in The Big Apple. Yards and garbs of it. In two words, ENK Coterie. It is a part of ENK International, one of the world's leading fashion trade shows with several topical shows under its umbrella aside from Coterie. They include Accessories Circuit and Intermezzo Collections. ENK Coterie's focus is mainly women's apparel and accessories. Rather than, say, 20 shows a day over eight days, a la fashion week, the proposition is 3 days (23-25 Feb.), 3 levels, more than 1,400 designers and thousands of buyers from more than 95 countries, plus the media. And at least seven major categories, including evening wear and shoes. At the Javits Convention Center. Because we at VEVLYN'S PEN have just come off of fashion week, commenting mainly on clothes, we will have our say in our ENK Coterie debut about a few shoe brands over the next three days.

THE feet just have to rejoice in these puppies because they are all eye-catching.

But there are other reasons for happy feet. A few clues are revealed. More will be revealed later, with additional images.

OLD GRINGO



AT the height of fashion with plenty of hype.

CHAKA



GENDERLESS.. Ageless. Borderless.

DAV



ALL-WEATHER luxury at economy class.

Visit http://www.enkshows.com/ to learn more about ENK Coterie and all of the shows produced by ENK International.

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

@ENK Coterie Day 2: Nicola Sexton Steps in to Fill a Void; Welcome Back, Kennel & Schmenger

Calf-high leather boot with silver-rimmed rings. Photos by Yours Truly.

HEADS UP: Though Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week have folded tents, closed doors, turned off lights and MBFW has hared off to Europe, there is still plenty of fashion showcasing ongoing in The Big Apple. Yards and garbs of it. In two words, ENK Coterie. It is a part of ENK International, one of the world's leading fashion trade shows with several topical shows under its umbrella aside from Coterie. They include Accessories Circuit and Intermezzo Collections. ENK Coterie's focus is mainly women's apparel and accessories. Rather than, say, 20 shows a day over eight days, a la fashion week, the proposition is 3 days (23-25 Feb.), 3 levels, more than 1,400 designers and thousands of buyers from more than 95 countries, plus the media. And at least seven major categories, including evening wear and shoes. At the Javits Convention Center. Because we at VEVLYN'S PEN have just come off of fashion week, commenting mainly on clothes, we will have our say in our ENK Coterie debut about a few shoe brands over the next three days.

NICOLA Sexton saw a problem and she sought a solution.

The result of her troubleshooting is Nicola Sexton, an eponymous line of Italian-made footwear.

“I have a love for shoes,” the Brit says matter factly, of her five-year-old line. (See video at right)

The problem she observed was a gap in the UK market for what she terms “ a very wearable, comfortable shoe that can sit alongside Italian handmade brands.”

To ensure that her product could figuratively hold its head high in the presence of the formidable Italians, the former real estate executive took herself off to that land. Soon, she pressed into service a manufacturer that could deliver a product such as a fetching little pump.

It is reminiscent of a popular style of a massively famous Italian footwear purveyor that won't be named. The first letter of the name, however, begins with “F”; the last with “O.”

Of course, this is not to suggest that the Nicola Sexton pump is a doppelganger; the perfectly, proper and comfortable-seeming affair is far from it. In the UK, such a one is called a “court” shoe, the kind that royals, nobles and others of that ilk might don to visit the queen. The queen, herself, wears such footwear, does she not?

From the Fall-Winter 2015 Nicola Sexton collection, patent leather pumps with buckle in stone and black.

But one digresses. For Fall-Winter 2015, Nicola Sexton offers footwear – boots, booties, ballet shoes – for just about every occasion in colors of the season, anchored by black, of course.

Here is a collection that is much like its creator – understated, conservative and elegant. Some bare accents such as buckles, do-dads and sliver-ringed cutouts. A few boots are lined and/or rimmed by shearling.

At Nicola Sexton, the mandate is not to reinvent the wheel. Instead, it is to ensure that it is always well-oiled. And so it is.

KENNEL & SCHMENGER

From Kennel & Schmenger Fall-Winter 2015: Pointy toe brush leather sneaker (left) in stone. At right, clockwise from left: black sneaker in leather with black crystals and overlay and ragged sole; square-toe, leopard-print bootie in calf leather, and white leather sneaker with leopard-print detail at heel collar. Photos by Yours Truly.

THE German footwear company thrives in Asia and Europe, and for good reason.

Kennel & Schmenger prides itself on craftsmanship. All of its shoes are handmade in Germany. Leather lining resides in each pair. This is not a brand that goes in for a lot of bells and whistles. It is not necessary; the shoes have a language of their own.

Inexplicably, Kennel & Schmenger has been absent from the U.S. market for the last few years. However, it has returned to these borders in time to introduce Fall-Winter 2015, a collection that is more than 150-styles strong and accounting. It appears to be excited about re-upping on doing business in the New World.

Black runner with Swarovski crystals.

It is hoped that the reverse will prove true. For it would be sad news indeed if a New Yorker or Arkansan has to travel to Belgium, for instance, to procure that burgundy bootie.

It is leather but still bares calf fur. This is made possible though a special process that was explained to Yours Truly that fails the memory at the moment.

Gray boot in suede.

In any case, just know that the leather is so very smooth – almost like cashmere. On the side is an elasticized panel that is called a Chelsea, another notable detail of the shoe, along with its ragged rubber sole.

It simply would not do if one were compelled to journey to Hong Kong for the pleasure of a black sneaker categorized as a Runner. It is covered by Swarovski crystals. Kennel & Schmenger, according to the sales rep, is the only label in Europe permitted to apply the famous gems to shoes.

Burgundy bootie in calf hair leather and white leather sneaker with silver overlay at heel and lamb fur inside and out.

Kennel & Schmenger for FW15, and the brand in general, has a quiet, strong presence. A case in point is the white-soled, stone-colored sneaker with a zipper on the vamp in a brush leather that bears a slight resemblance to patent. Like so many of the sneakers in the collection, it is uber-stylish and may wish to attend a gala.

Further, on close and closer examination its sheer luxuriousness – as is the case for a number of other styles – is obvious.

Yet it is never ostentatious, much like Kennel & Schmenger.

Visit http://www.enkshows.com/ to learn more about ENK Coterie and all of the shows produced by ENK International; visit http://www.nicolasexton.co.uk to learn more about Nicola Sexton; visit http://www.kennel-schmenger.com to learn more about Kennel & Schmenger.

Tuesday, February 24, 2015

@ENK Coterie Day 1: Alegory Can Kick Up Many Heels With One Pump; Arricci's Curves and Love Jones for Brazil

Photos by Yours Truly.

HEADS UP: Though Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week have folded tents, closed doors, turned off lights and MBFW has hared off to Europe, there is still plenty of fashion showcasing ongoing in The Big Apple. Yards and garbs of it. In two words, ENK Coterie. It is a part of ENK International, one of the world's leading fashion trade shows with several topical shows under its umbrella aside from Coterie. They include Accessories Circuit and Intermezzo Collections. ENK Coterie's focus is mainly women's apparel and accessories. Rather than, say, 20 shows a day over eight days, a la fashion week, the proposition is 3 days (23-25 Feb.), 3 levels, more than 1,400 designers and thousands of buyers from more than 95 countries, plus the media. And at least seven major categories, including evening wear and shoes. At the Javits Convention Center. Because we at VEVLYN'S PEN have just come off of fashion week, commenting mainly on clothes, we will have our say in our ENK Coterie debut about a few shoe brands over the next three days.

SAME shoe, different heel. It begs the question why heretofore, throngs of shoe designers have not created such a one. Yet, as far as can determined only Paris-based Alegory and one other French label have come away from the design war room with this one.

The Alegory heel can come off (top) and stays on (right). Photo from Alegory Web site.

New to the market, Alegory is making its U.S. debut at ENK Coterie. The concept is simple: Take a basic pump and create several different heels in different heights and colors to fit it. Each pair of shoes comes with two different heels choices. They range from the classic skinny heel to the short and slightly chunky. Convertible clothing. Why not convertible shoes?

ARRICCI

ArricciFashion

ASKED to give a 30-second elevator pitch about Arricci, its New York rep Tony Ramo launches into an overview that includes some important keywords phrases: Made in Brazil and New on the Market.

The L.A.-based brand embarks on its third season with its Fall-Winter 2015 collection. It is a competent mix of boots, booties and shoes in the colors of the seasons, anchored by taupe and tan and, of course, black.

Though these are not showstoppers, they are engaging, well-constructed, all-leather on-trend essentials. Arricci, a playful take on the Italian word for “curl” – hence the curvature of many of its creations – is carried by Nordstrom and Anthropologie, “but they are going fast,” TR warns.

Leather lovelies: Boots, booties and loafers from the Fall-Winter 2015 Arricci collection. Photo by Yours Truly.

At the moment, Arricci's mission it to create shoes that it hopes stand out and make Brazil a buzzword in shoe craft. Asserts TR, “We like the fact that we are using that Brazilian craftsmanship and bringing it back to the market.”

Visit http://www.enkshows.com/ to learn more about ENK Coterie and all of the shows produced by ENK International; visit http://www.arricci.com/ to learn more about Arricci; visit http://www.alegory.com/ to learn more about Alegory.

Friday, February 20, 2015

@MB/NYFW Last Day: Pride of Dorin Negrau; Back to Drawingboard for Ly Qui Khanh; F&F When Tokyo Runway Meets New York

From the Fall-Winter 2015 Dorin Negrau collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Last Day: Arts Hearts Fashion, Blue Les Copains, Calvin Klein, Cynthia Vincent, Dorin Negrau, Ikumi, J. Mendel, Marc Jacobs, Peter Som, Ralph Lauren, Sergio Davila, Sherri Hill, Tokyo Runway Meets New York

NINE observations about the Dorin Negrau Fall-Winter 2015 show:

1NE. The designer uses a combination of models and real-looking women. Perhaps, too, they are all models who look like real women. Further, none may be models;

2WO. It appears that fall-winter 2015 is made up almost exclusively of styles popular in his homeland of Romania;

3HREE. The women (models) are of various heights and variations of slim, though a couple tend toward normal;

4OUR. It is a collection, incorporating brilliant colors like turquoise, orange and fire-engine red;

5IVE. The models appear to be in age anywhere from late 20s to late 40s;

6IX. The beautifully intricate multi-colored bustiers want a snugger fit. All of this moving about is making them (and this viewer) dizzy;

7EVEN. One ensemble, a long navy dress with oversized collar and white vest, is the ugly duckling. Its presence is mystifying. One could find such a one in the clearance bin of a designer discount store;

8IGHT. Several beautiful ensembles, including the one featuring a white jacket, red print sash;

9INE. The more the eyes see of this collection, the more they imagine they are viewing a procession at a Romania Day parade. As a whole, this is too costumey.

NEW YORK LIFE, Ly Qui Khanh

From the Ly Qui Khanh Fall-Winter 2015 collection.

SHE takes one tentative step forward, moving very cautiously. One uneasy step at a time until she moves to the right side of the runway. There's a problem with her outfit.

Back on course for perhaps a step, then over to the right side of the runway for more troubleshooting.

It is fitting that on the last day New York Fashion Week of the last season of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week's fractious stay at Lincoln Center there should be some drama, trauma and spectacle.

And so it is – quite by accident – courtesy of Ly Qui Khanh, showing under the New York Life umbrella.

It is obvious that the designer's vision exceeded his reach. The lovely pink and white ballgown – constructed with a lot of tenderness and love, but too little care – was too long and possessed of too many layers for the model to both walk and keep her feet. It is not the only wonderful creation he sends out whose construction may be hazardous to the health of the wearer.

Pandemonium ensues – laughter, snickers, guffaws, catcalls, horror and mortification. No well-meaning person enjoys such a sight. It's akin to watching a figureskater fall or alpine skier crash and burn.

Mercifully, LQK extricates his model and creation from this awful scene. (See the final seconds of the exit in the video).

TOKYO RUNWAY MEETS NEW YORK, mastermind feat for A-GIRL'S

From the Fall-Winter 2015 collection of mastermind feat for A-GIRL'S.

ANOTHER group show debuting at Fashion Week New York, more evidence that such economy-driven coops are a cottage industry on fashion week calendars around the world. Fun and fab for two out of the seven collections – a showcase for Japanese design talents to the world beyond its borders – that win the coin toss for a mention.

mastermind feat for A-GIRL'S holds down the fun portion with frocks for the prep school set. Supposedly, FW15 is inspired by the hope that peace will prevail on earth. The connection is murky unless it's suggested in the notion that there is nothing offensive here (or particularly creative).

TOKYO RUNWAY MEETS NEW YORK, Dresscamp

From the Fall-Winter 2015 Dresscamp collection.

DRESSCAMP is inspired by Vanitas. However, the resulting collection – the fabulous side of the Tokyo Runway Meets New York equation – channels the '60s, the 1960s. Two cases in point: the Holly Golightly shift and Jackie-Oesque jackets with shawl collar and three-quarter length sleeves. Deference to today is evident in some fabrics such as leather favored for evening gloves.

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Thursday, February 19, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 7: Get Us More Francesca Liberatore Types at Fashion Week New York

From the Francesca Liberatore Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photos from Francesca Liberatore.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 7: Alexis Bittar, Anna Sui, Bibhu Mohapatra, B Michael, Boss Womenswear, Clover Canyon, Delpozo, Eidos, Elizabeth and James, Erin Fetherston, Francesca Liberatore, Iijin, Greg Lauren, Jeremy Scott, Laquan Smith, Leanne Marshall, Lie Sangbong, Malan Breton, Marchesa, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Newbark, Pink Sheep Heiress, Proenza Schouler, Rolando Santana, Sons of William, Stephen F., The Blonds, Thomas Wylde

WHAT Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week want is more Francesca Liberatores. What a breath of fresh air and creativity these last few seasons!

Fall-Winter 2015 is full of delights and surprises.

From the Francesca Liberatore Fall-Winter 2015 collection.

A pair of well-tailored, wide-legged trousers with massive sway is heading in this direction, that is until the turn and behold, a pair of well-tailored shorts. Baring a surfeit of asymmetry and other characteristics is a b&w print vest. It is busy in a good way.

The asymmetrical series of navy and white with creme cording that opens the show is thoughtful. An interesting proposition from a black button-down dress with jewel-neck collar and cutout at the hem and a hint of a flounce.

Consider the forget-me-not black peacoat with fur collar and geometric metallic cutout at hem over a metallic pencil skirt, finely cut. The persistent and shape-shifting star (handbag, tote, necklace, bracelet ...) in red, black, then Dallas Cowboys blue – all bordered by a silver lining. What is this thing about?

The London-trained designer gives edge, urbanity, sophistication and whimsy.

More. More. More …!

LEANNE MARSHALL

From the Fall-Winter 2015 Leanne Marshall collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

IT'S circa 19th century France.

A young lady journeys there, looking for love.

It is not known whether she found love and lost it - mayhap some nobleman overpromised and underdelivered. Possibly, her beloved died tragically or she simply did not find love at all.

This quest would become a burning desire - an obsession. She is bitterly disappointed.

It drives her mad.

Throughout the saga of her heroine, the Project Runway" Season 5 winner turns her out in beautiful frocks of the era.

Accents such as draping and folding abound on bodices and skirts. Ruffles gather in surprising places. Occasionally, the dresses are bathed with ethereal watercolor prints.

The color palette changes with the romantic's state of mind - a deep wine color during her obsession.

Moodiest blue when she is in mental distress.

Beautiful tableaux, marred only by omnipresent wrinkles worrying the silk chiffon and organza.

On deck today, LAST Day: Arts Hearts Fashion, Blue Les Copains, Calvin Klein, Cynthia Vincent, Dorin Negrau, Ikumi, J. Mendal, Marc Jacobs, Peter Som, Ralph Lauren, Sergio Davila, Sherri Hill, Tokyo Runway Meets New York

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 6: Word About Zang Toi Is ... ; And One for Michael Costello, Too; Skingraft's Exploration; Nice Work and Todd Harrison Calvert Has Gotten It ...

From the Zang Toi Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photo by William Gaines.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 6: Alexander Vida, Badgley Mischka, Baja East, Christina Ottaviano, Diesel Black Gold, Elie Tahari, Georgine, Harbison, J. Crew, Jenny Packham, KTZ, Lela Rose, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Michael Costello, Lupe Gajardo, Narciso Rodriguez, Naeem Khan, Oscar de la Renta, Pedro Del Hierro, Rachel Zoe, Rodarte, Skingraft, Sophie Theallet, The Art Institutes, Tory Burch, Vera Wang, Zang Toi

IT'S a best practice before a Zang Toi show to lock down which superlative one is going to tag it with. For fall winter 2015, the designer considers the “Mystique Beauty of Venice.”

Sumptuous is to be the keyword for this ZT production. His Venice is a place where by day, a lady is turned out in basics of the highest quality fabrics, accessorized by the black murano glass necklace, for instance.

This one applique transforms her insouciant taupe lamb suede classic twinset and black georgette fortuny pleated maxi skirt into an arresting vision.

It sets the tone for the show and defines the keyword. The taupe handloomed cashmere and silk turtleneck twinset with hand-beaded tweeds ensemble – sumptuous. Brown handloomed cashmere and silk and ribbon and silk and wool tweed jacket and mini sheath dress, the very same.

Relaxed elegance at Zang Toi for FW15. Photo by William Gaines.

A lone bone to pick with this sumptuous feast is an evening confection: The black lame fortuny pleated venetian gown bordered with bronze crystal is in need of some tapering lest the poor (not really, but one gets the meaning) woman will appear as if she is expecting a happy event. Not a happy event if she is not.

The grand finale – the showstopper for the masquerade ball where one will no doubt waltz – should have been the black silk faille strapless ballgown with hand-embroidered chenille and bullion venetian arches. Without any adornment what so ever, it is beautiful. Sumptuous.

MICHAEL COSTELLO

From the Michael Costello Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

IN Europe, too (Paris and London), as well as Japan is Michael Costello. His jetsetter is very different from Zang Toi's, though.

Where the latter's lady adheres to the strictures of subtlety, decency and class, the former's is a bodacious broad who flirts shamelessly with indecency, forgetting or ignoring the good manners that were instilled in her. Perhaps, her wardrobe choices are what sexy means at the moment. She conforms to societal norms, however, when she takes herself off to Asia.

Before the start of the show the ears of Yours Truly catch snatches of the running commentary about MC from a woman sitting on the row behind me. “… In L.A., his models have big boobs and butts ...; he makes stuff that Kim KardasHian wears ...”


The reality star is a customer, as is Beyonce among others of the curvaceous set.

The first look out of the gate does not give lie to the words of our commentator. It is a fishnet-lace gown with a left split so high as to cause altitude sickness and one's very proper grandmother to call for the smelling salts were she to clap eyes on it.

In his program notes, the former “Project Runway” and “Project Runway All-Stars” finalist discloses that his woman “demands attention.” And she will have it. Most of this inventory – well-crafted, one must note – is not for the faint of heart or lack of a bangin' body.



The imperfect 99 percent can limit its consumption to the wardrobe dedicated to the Japanese leg of the jaunt.

SKINGRAFT


A little more refinement to its underground, counterculture pose most pronounced in embellished coats, jackets and vests redolent of the ponchos favored by the Peruvian nomad that in part informs the collection. Creme and white are conspicuous, though the oversized white shirt is off course in this odyssey.

Todd Harrison Calvert Has Many Reasons to Smile

Interior of Glasscock Boutique in Louisville, Kentucky. Photo from Glasscock Web site.

WHY is Todd Harrison Calvert smiling?

First, because he has good teeth and wants to show them off. Perhaps, but not really; he's a smiler.

Another possibility is because he is the buyer for the exclusive Glasscock Boutique in Louisville, Kentucky, an embodiment of a cushy gig. His job title, as it appears on his business card, is "Director of Fashion & Marketing." (http://www.glasscockinc.com/)

Through Glasscock, this son of a banker procures for the "upper two percent." The kind of folk who renovate a guesthouse on their Tampa, Florida beach compound especially for him. Folk who arrange riding lessons for THC; who have him rigged out with the proper attire to look the picture of equestrian elegance sitting astride a horse.

Can his very own horse be far behind. He didn't answer directly if one does not consider the glee winking out from the irises of his eyes. "My clients have names like Fo__es," he discloses during our tête-à-tête in the Mercedes-Benz Star Lounge. "Bergdorf Goodman wishes they had my clientele."

Indeed, that rarefied retailer would, considering that THC represents the demographic that can spare $250,000 for a Zang Toi gown.

"I have already seen the collection," he gives me to know about a show scheduled in two hours for the hoi polloi.

When one is parting with that amount of coin, is it any wonder that previews are part of the package. Is it any wonder that when THC calls at Carolina Herrera the lady pays her addresses to him herself?

TC's dream job was born one fateful morning when a mutual friend called upon him on the phone at 7:30 – "I had not even had my first cup of coffee" – entreating him to help her friend, a damsel whose business (Glasscock) was in distress.

What started out as 15 hours a week by necessity would become a full-time job. Making a brand viable again and whipping into shape a lethargic and complacent staff demands a body's undivided attention.

Todd Harrison Calvert in the Mercedes-Benz Star Lounge. Photo by Yours Truly.

"I had other clients but could wrap them up in a month," THC recalls.

And so he did. Fast forward to the present day. His work brings him to New York a couple of times a month. When he journeys North for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week in tow are usually a few Glasscock clients.

Horizons are soon to expand, however – restlessness threatens; ennui is setting in – taking THC&Co.to places like Paris and London.

In Europe, they will replicate their New World behavior: sit on the front row, pointing and saying “I want that and that and that ..." like much of the 98 percent chooses from the list of adds-on at Chipotle, for instance.

And what does THC do? " I take notes."

On deck today, Day 7: Alexis Bittar, Anna Sui, Bibhu Mohapatra, B Michael, Boss Womenswear, Clover Canyon, Delpozo, Eidos, Elizabeth and James, Erin Fetherston, Francesca Liberatore, Iijin, Greg Lauren, Jeremy Scott, Laquan Smith, Leanne Marshall, Lie Sangbong, Malan Breton, Marchesa, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Newbark, Pink Sheep Heiress, Proenza Schouler, Rolando Santana, Sons of William, Stephen F., The Blonds, Thomas Wylde

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 5: Angel Sanchez In Good Company; TaorayWang – Focus!; T.Tandon, the Dogooder; Aunt Tea Annie's Big T NYC Riff; BradleyTheodore Splatters Live Art ...



HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.


From the Angel Sanchez Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 5: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Adeam, Alice + Olivia, Angel Sanchez, Barbara Tfank, Black'D, Brock Collection, Carolina Herrera, Dennis Basso, Donna Karan New York, Eckhaus Latta, Heimstone, Houghton, Karen Walker, Landeros New York, La Petite Robe Di Chiara Boni, Libertine, Milly by Michelle Smith, Nicopanda, Oudifu, Ovadia & Sons, Pamella Roland, Patrik Ervell, Rag & Bone, Ready to Fish, Reem Acra, Row Assoulin, Taoray Wang, Thom Browne, Tommy Hilfiger, The Row, The White Space, Tina Tandon, Veronica Beard, Vivienne Tam, Yeohlee, Zac Posen, Zero + Maria Cornejo

THIS is an Angel Sanchez production. Yet, it is so easy to believe that one is in a Carmen Marc Valvo show, for instance. Another craftsman about his business. Everything is done on a superior scale: fabrics, cuts, colors, lengths. No gimmicks. Not a hair out of place. (See video at top.).

TAORAY WANG

From the Taoray Wang Fall-Winter 2015 collection.

PLEASE, you are saying too much simultaneously. On the one hand, I infer micro-mini dresses. In the next breath, my ears are assaulted with mannish pants. Elsewhere, a whisper of minimalist shifts. Moreover, the plaid series? Really? Sound arguments. What's needed, however, is one coherent statement. Thanks.


Hopefully, T.Tandon's Good Deeds Won't Go Unpurchased



ECO-FRIENDLY. Socially-conscious. Charitable. Fashion-sensical

What's not to like about T.Tandon? Surely, something – for no one or nothing is perfect, of course. But it is difficult to find fault with this line created by Tina Tandon.

T.Tandon Fall-Winter 2015.

The FIT grad showed her fall winter 15 collection at the TechStyle NYC popup space at The House of Bumble. FW 15 is inspired by the winter garden. “I'm always inspired by nature," TT says. (See video above).

It becomes apparent in a bunch of crystals on the bodice of a sleeveless dress in the color of a winter sky. A black shift with streaming paillettes or sequins references a rainfall, perhaps even icicles.

This is TT's fourth line. After graduation, she cut her teeth in the business working with such houses as Escada and Christian Lacroix. In fashioning her garments, she relies heavily on bio-degradable and sustainable fabrics.

T.Tandon Fall-Winter 2015.

Her consciousness does not end there, however. A portion of proceeds from sales goes to support charities that help poor children in India, hopefully rescuing them from the horrors of child labor. Further, TT says she mainly produces her line in factories owned by women.

And who does she design for? “Young professional and older women who like to wear something that is interesting and not boring, something of good quality … something unique that is not available everywhere.”

Visit http://www.ttandon.com to learn more about T.Tandon.

Big T NYC Hails From China, Not Africa, China


Yours Truly is in search of some sustenance. It is at this moment that I meet the very affable Annie.

“Would you like some tea,” she asks with a high-wattage smile.

Annie, brand ambassador for Big T NYC.

I have just approached the counter in the corner of the 8th floor room of The House of Bumble. Normally, food can be foraged in this quarter. In progress is TechStyle NYC, a popup retails space where various manner of business connected to the fashion industry is marketing wares to the media and tastemakers invited through the doors.

I am more in the mood for tea sandwiches, but how is Annie to know this? “What kind of tea is it.”

It's as if the Indiana native were waiting for me to ask that very question. She launches into a delightful spiel about how her niece (Theresa Krier), who formerly worked in the fashion industry, created Big T NYC.

The daughter of her brother observed backstage at the fashion shows that the parched models would not drink the juices and sodas – and can one blame them??? To that end, she put on her thinking caps and in late 2013 what TK&Co. call the world's first couture tea brand was birthed.

It's organic, too. This excited Anne to no end. She recalled how it came from Africa – no – was it China???

Said I unhelpfully, “It was a province in China called Africa!”

“No, I think it was China,” Annie determines, hedging and entreating me not to think ill of her for not unequivocally knowing this one major detail.

The Big T NYC Couture Collection gift set contain the three Big T NYC organic teas, an infuser, and a tea-making guide. Photo from Big T NYC Web site.

No worries. We are clear on the other salient points. The tea is organic. At the moment there are three blends: Baby It's Cold Outside Black Tea, Unexpected Fling Green Tea and Tell-Tale Glow White Tea. They are available backstage at many shows during New York Fashion Week and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (and elsewhere).

As best as anyone knows – unless another turns up to contradict it with irrefutable proof – Big T NYC is the world's first couture tea, “bringing artistry and gourmet flavor combinations to the tea category.”

Finally, it is not sourced from Africa, China.

http://www.bigtnyc.com/ to learn more about Big T NYC.

At Italia Independent Party, Bradley Theodore Creates Some Extremely Contemporary Art



LATER, I'm going to do some live art,” Bradley Theodore volunteers as he quickly and deftly paints the rims of a pair of sunglasses.

“Isn't this live art, “ asks Yours Truly, pointing at the ministrations being applied to a pair that has a passing resemblance to the Ray-Ban Wayfarer.

The digital media specialist and street artist utters nary another word, but methinks I glimpse a smirk.

We are at the store opening party for the Italian eyewear brand, Italia Independent. The specialty label is setting up shop in Soho at 85 Mercer St.

Later, at the afterparty at the Skyroom of the New Museum, the disclosure of this native of Turks & Caicos would come to life in full, living color. (See a before version on the video above and the after version in the photo below.)

Visit http://www.bradleytheodore.com/ to learn more about Bradley Theodore; visit http://www.italiaindependent.com/en to learn more Italia Independent.

Bradley Theodore's live art is finished.

On deck today, Day 6: Alexander Vida, Badgley Mischka, Baja East, Christina Ottaviano, Diesel Black Gold, Elie Tahari, Georgine, Harbison, J. Crew, Jenny Packham, KTZ, Lela Rose, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Michael Costello, Lupe Gajardo, Narciso Rodriguez, Naeem Khan, Oscar de la Renta, Pedro Del Hierro, Rachel Zoe, Rodarte, Skingraft, Sophie Theallet, The Art Institutes, Tory Burch, Vera Wang, Zang Toi

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.
 
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