Tuesday, July 26, 2016

You Want Forgiveness? Don't Hold Your Breath, For It Will Be a Long Time Coming. Possibly Right Before Hell Freezes Over.

Primary school teacher Marcy Lowell uses illustrations to recount the classic tale of "The Boy Who Cried Wolf."


up and you have much groveling to do to make things right, my friend. You are in the doghouse; the boy who cried wolf.

Science has spoken and we best listen because this has potentially very serious implications. Researchers at the Universty of Chicago Booth School of Business have discovered that once an individual has created an unfavorable impression s/he has to bend over backward, and then some, to begin to create a favorable one.

Imagine the fallout if one has committed a crime. Or adultery?

Titled "The Tipping Point of Moral Change: When Do Good and Bad Acts Make Good and Bad Actors?," the study is published in the journal, "Social Cognition." ... More shortly.

Visit http://www.bit.ly/2ajeubJ to read an abstract or purchase a pdf of "The Tipping Point of Moral Change: When Do Good and Bad Acts Make Good and Bad Actors."

Friday, July 15, 2016

Last Day, Day 4 NYFWM Spring 2017: Tagging Along With Timo Weiland, Katama and David Hart x Hart Schaffner Marx


Players of Last Day, Day 4: Title of Work, David Hart x Hart Schaffner Marx, Landlord, Todd Snyder, Katama, Jeffrey Rudes, Palmiers du Mal, Devon Halfnight Leflufy, Parker & Ronen, Orley Timo Weiland, General Idea, Second/Layer, Siki Im, John Varvatos

BEFORE John Varvatos
closed out the last day of New York Fashion Week: Men's S/S17 and the first full year of the tradeshow, designers were tripping.

Timo Weiland went bananas, while David Hart x Hart Schaffner Marx strolled down memory lanes, stopping at The Maldives, among other locales.

It was to the beach or some other glittering wateringhole with Katama.

Enjoy the images for now.


Visit http://www.cfda.com/programs/new-york-mens-week to learn more about New York Fashion Week: Men’s, including shows and show times.

Thursday, July 14, 2016

Day 3 NYFWM Spring 2017: Chillin'; Everything Is Copacetic at Thaddeus O'Neil, Thorsun, Nautica and Assembly New York, Which Is Also on Locsdown

From the Nautica S/S17 collection. Photo from Nautica Facebook page.


DESIGNER Thaddeus O'Neil
is explaining his fascination with a Japanese knit from which a shirt in his latest collection is made.

His New York Fashion Week: Men's S/S 2017 presentation is in progress at Cadillac House. Listening, I am reminded of two important truths. More often than not, designers put a lot of thought into their collections. Of course, there is a fair amount of over-promising and under-delivering. But, still.

Second reminder: Regardless of one's milieu s/he often wants to be well-dressed, including TO's surfer audience ...

Whereas Day 2 of men's fashion week was taxing on the brain (Gypsy Sport, for instance), Day 3 is more laidback; easy like Sunday morning / it's summertime and the living is easy.

To that end, Assembly New York considers the notion of balance. Translation: Engaging loose-fitting garments that hang well and look comfortable. B&w and a few prints. Quality, understated silk, terry, organic cotton. Models, all sporting locs.

Going to / hanging out at the beach? Looking for something in subtle prints and/or solids? Well-constructed, well-sourced? Thorsun has you covered.

Elsewhere, there is a new Riviera, bursting with energy; Taittinger is flowing. Grab your passport, pack your rags (Nautica). Bon voyage.

Thaddeus O'Neil

Assembly New York


On deck today, Last Day, Day 4: Title of Work, David Hart x Hart Schaffner Marx, Landlord, Todd Snyder, Katama, Jeffrey Rudes, Palmiers du Mal, Devon Halfnight Leflufy, Parker & Ronen, Orley Timo Weiland, General Idea, Second/Layer, Siki Im, John Varvatos

Visit http://www.cfda.com/programs/new-york-mens-week to learn more about New York Fashion Week: Men’s, including shows and show times.

Wednesday, July 13, 2016

Day 2 NYFWM Spring 2017: Gypsy Sport Acquires More Sheen But Retains Plenty of Grit; Loris Diran Shows a Soft, Sensitive Side That Is All Man ...

From the Gypsy Sport S/S17 collection. Photo by VW.


That is a term that it is surprising to attach to a Gypsy Sport creation. Yet, there it is.

Day 2 of New York Fashion Week: Men's S/S 2017 was one that did fashion proud. It commenced with the elegance and masterliness of Joseph Abboud.

Just after midday, Loris Diran, pondering South America, delivered sensitivity, sensuality, seductiveness and sexiness. The color palette is heavy on shades of gray with black and white areas, as well as a touch of teal.

Women can take many of the ensembles under serious considerstion. Indeed, the collection shows its feminine side, yet is utterly masculine.

Several jackets - in this collection they are mainly tapered at the waist and all hip length - are curved, shawl-like, at the closure. A black linen suit (gray pocket flaps and lapels, skinny pants) throws over a shirt in favor of a light gray, v-neck, knee-length tunic. Two collarless maxi jackets in teal and taupe are cleverly convertible. Undo the zipper and behold a short jacket that rests at the waist.

From the Gypsy Sport S/S17 collection. Photo by VW.

At teatime however, Gypsy Sport was served in large portions. The design duo behind the label takes the day in this humble opinion. The schtick of streetwear informed by found objects, many of them of the basketball uniform variety, has acquired an extra coat of polish without losing the razor-sharp edges (Thank you, Anna Wintour?

For S/S17, two words: lace, fringe. These two appear on just about everything that cannot be nailed down. The effect: fanciful, ingenious, thoughtful, fetching. Cases in point, the sleeveless canary yellow jersey with fringe at the hem. The netted shirts with fringe.

Some words to the uninitiated: Gypsy Sport caters to an uber-cool, underground culture. It is not for most everybody. However, if conventional types can deconstruct the ensembles, it becomes possible to begin to wrap the brain around this bit of trigonometry.

In the simply adorable category are the blue shorts with yellow pockets and lace-trimmed boxers underneath. One of the most accessible ensembles is the canary yellow ribbed blouse with lace sleeves and blue-multi scarf transformed into an assymetrical skirt.

From the Loris Diran S/S17 collection. Photo by VW.

In executing a gimmick that works, the presentation at Cadillac House was a runway show presented in a continuous loop. In short, for nearly an hour the diverse group of models walked the runway over and over and over again.

Smartly done, because one look is insufficient to understand or appreciate the genius of Gypsy Sport.

Visit http://www.cfda.com/programs/new-york-mens-week to learn more about New York Fashion Week: Men’s, including shows and show times.

Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Day 1 NYFWM Spring 2017: Gimmickry Works Better Some Places (Suitsupply, Robert James) Than Others (Uri Minkoff)

colleague who covers fashion for The Economist asks me during our chat at the Uri Minkoff presentation whether I have noticed any trends emerging on Day 1 of New York Fashion Week: Men's S/S 2017 (11-14 July).

I say no, as we are discussing the state of fashion as well as the vastly altered state of fashion journalism, owing to the digital revolution. We are also watching the UM models - dancers were cast - gadding about Studio 5 at Industria Studios. The name of the designer's latest collection is TIME.

It is as I am observing that UM S/S2017 is a collection that relies heavily on shades of blue and further that it is nothing particularly special as it regards the actual clothes, that in fact a small trend has emerged: the gimmick.

UM employs two gimmicks in one show: casting dancers instead of models and directing said dancers to move around the space in a dancerly fashion. Ironically, the idea of runway shows and presentations is to sell the clothes, yet the clothes here are overshadowed by the bodies within them.

Perhaps something special is going on - a dark (is that silk?) shirt with Nehru collar is crisp and polished - but it is difficult to know with all of the genuflection and one set of exquisite thighs on bow legs.

Robert James fares better with gimmickry. The space at Industria's Sub Rose studio, taken up by numerous pillars, is well-suited for the cross-formation runway show. The clothes are as hip and rock star-centric as the soundtrack. The blindingly silver bomber jacket is ready to rock and roll. The Army green blazer (canvass-like fabric) with zipper in back has swagger to spare. Interspersed are nerdy-cool ensems. Like the song says, "born to be wild."

Last year, one of the models gives me to know, Suitsupply used the street outside its office on Broome Street for its show. One year later, for a collection inspired by the German design school, Bauhaus (practicality, simplicity in everyday objects), the models blew in from hither and yon on bikes, then upstairs for a conventional presentation.

If the idea of the bikes suggests a simple and practical mode of transport where practical, the gimmick works. S/S17 at Suitsupply does not appear to have an impractical stitch. A few models are sitting but most are on their feet. They are standing close together as if for a group shot, presenting a united front that is arresting and quite ties the tongue.

Here is a tableau defined largely by linen in the fabric category. It has an elusive, albeit special quality about it. Could it be splendid Italian fabrics used to construct suits of clothes at highly accessible pricepoints?

Three outfits standout, however. The tuxedos in a superfine silk-linen blend. One is in dark navy. The other a dark brown that looks black, with a indigo stripe down the side. Both are as suave as James Bond, the man for whom they are named. Elsewhere, the brown tweed (merino wool) jacket has a quiet dignity about it ... More shortly from Day 1.

Visit http://www.cfda.com/programs/new-york-mens-week to learn more about New York Fashion Week: Men’s, including shows and show times.

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Your Makeup Looks Great, and Men Love It. But You Are the Envy of Women and Worse

To some, women who wear makeup are considered more attractive but also less trustworthy. Photo from Charlotte Tilbury website.


feel good. And with good reason. It's a beautiful day. You're wearing one of your favorite outfits.

Your makeup is flawless.

Au Naturale Cosmetics Organic Creme Foundation in Marino.

Do you realize, though, that women - the sisterhood - are more apt to think negatively of you, while you make quite the positive impression on men? If it's any consolation, both men and women do think you look good.

This is the case, according to recent first-of-its-kind research out of the University of Stirling in Scotland. Thoughts of this study have been on the brain these last couple of weeks or so. Every time these eyes alight on a woman wearing not a trace of makeup. But especially when they capture ones with a full face.

Prestige Primed & Ready Face Primer.

“While both sexes agree that women with makeup look more attractive when it comes to 'high status', it really depends on who is looking," says Viktoria Mileva, one of the study's authors and a post-doctoral research fellow. "Men think women with makeup are more ‘prestigious’, while women think women with makeup are more dominant."

The study is titled "Sex Differences in the Perceived Dominance and Prestige of Women With and Without Cosmetics." The results appear in the journal, "Perception." Researchers say theirs is the first to note the different perceptions of the sexes as it regards women who wear makeup.

Delirium Cream Blush from Inner Glow.

From the starting point of copious study that has found that women who use cosmetics generally have better jobs and make more money than those who don't, the researchers used computer software to add a moderate amount of makeup to the faces of women.

Then, they presented study participants with images of women wearing makeup and images of women not wearing makeup, asking them to rate their faces using variables such as attractiveness, dominance and prestige.

Accordingy, then, your painstakingly applied Au Naturale Cosmetics Organic Creme Foundation (in Marino), giving you perfectly even skin, potentially marks you as a dominant type - someone willing to achieve ends through manipulation, for instance - in the eyes of some women.

Bang!Bang! lipstick from Melt Cosmetics.

Take heart, because your pores and shine are diminished by Primed & Ready Face Primer from Prestige, and men are moe likely to view you as someone with more prestige. That is, someone who has acquired your gains through merit.

In that case by all means wear your Inner Glow Delirium Cream Blush in good cheer, even if women are more likely to be jealous of all of the glam.

A recent article on dailymail.com, comparing the wives of tennis players Andy Murray and Tomas Berdych - Kim Murray and Ester Satorova, respectively, lends credence to these findings. KM, an artist, is mainly a stay-at-home mom, while ES is a supermodel-in-the-remaking. One can easily infer latent disapproval of the latter. (http://www.dailym.ai/29o9XkM))

Blinc Mascara Amplified.

Perturbed by their initial findings, VM&Co. returned to some of the female participants for clarification. Some admitted feeling envious.

Also they may not think you at all chaste, though the Bang! Bang! (orange) from Melt Cosmetics is simply smashing on your lips.

Please don't cry and ruin your Blinc Mascara Amplified, albeit such perceptions are unfair. More important, however, they can have harmful ramifications.

“For example, at a job interview," suggests VM. "Knowing whether the hiring committee will consist of men or women might influence a female candidate's decision about wearing makeup. Whether the interviewers will view her as attractive, dominant, and/or prestigious can affect her and the interviewers' actions and perhaps the outcome of the interview itself."

Photo from Blinc website.

What's a girl to do? Of course, female interviewers may be wearing makeup, too. One can also pray for male interviewers.

Until the sisterhood can solve this ages-old intra-gender conflict, there are no easy answers. But one can't help but wonder whether Joe Blasco Neutralizer can smooth the way?

Visit http://www.bit.ly/29lfub8 to read "Sex Differences in the Perceived Dominance and Prestige of Women With and Without Cosmetics" in abstract form or in its entirety.

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Revenge: It Feels So Good. And It Feels So Bad.

Clint Eastwood in "Hang 'Em High" as Jed Cooper, a man seeking revenge against those who wronged him. Archive photo.


been wronged. You are livid. Somebody's gonna pay and payback is gonna be good.

Sweet! Revenge. It has a reputation of being thus. It's true, but revenge is also bitter, according to some nuanced research out of Washington University in St. Louis.

"The bittersweet taste of revenge: On the negative and positive consequences of retaliation" is to be published in the Journal of Experimental Social Psychology.

“We show that people express both positive and negative feelings about revenge, such that revenge isn’t bitter, nor sweet, but both,” says one of the researchers, Fade Eadeh, a doctoral student in psychological and brain sciences in Arts & Sciences. “We love revenge because we punish the offending party and dislike it because it reminds us of their original act.”

Their findings replicate those of other revenge studies that show that getting even alternately makes people feel good because it gives them the sense that justice is served. Or worse because it reminds them of the initial wrong. But not until now has a study made the case for both the bitter and sweet nature of revenge.

In three experiments, 200 people read polarizing, non-polarizing and neutral news events. They included the killing of Osama bin Laden, believed to be the brains behind the attacks on 11 Sept. 2001. Participsnts also read articles about the Olympics. Then, researchers rated how closely participant responses paralleled a random list of 25 adjectives, such as happy, edgy, satisfied, irritated, mad, upset or sad.

They further departed from previous research in measuring emotions rather than mood, theorizing that psychologists misleadingly use the terms interchangeably. Researchers' working definition of mood denotes feelings that are gradual and lingering, while emotions are intense and short-lived.

“We believe the reason people might feel good about revenge is because it allows us the opportunity to right a wrong and carry out the goal of punishing a bad guy,” says FE. “In our study, we found that Americans often expressed a great deal of satisfaction from bin Laden’s death, presumably because we had ended the life of a person that was the mastermind behind a terror organization.”

In Rosalyn Falcon Collier's "Forgive and Remember: 33 Classic Stories About Forgiveness," some of the world's most influential writers share experiences with forgiveness and revenge. The book also features films that explore forgiveness.

On the otherhand, Americans were reminded of the tragic events that gave rise to the common phrase, "terror organization."

In this case, perhaps God has the right of it, no?: "Vengeance is mine."

Visit http://www.bit.ly/29GPLMk to read an abstract or "The bittersweet taste of revenge: On the negative and positive consequences of retaliation" in its entirety.
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