MBFW Last Day: Usual Suspects, Plus Abraham and Marc

HEAD’S UP: That turnaround between September and February always seems short. One is in the middle of the Yuletide season when the notice arrives about registering for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York! Well, here we are at Fall 2013 and a small change in the VEVLYN’S PEN approach to covering Fashion Week. We will still put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits. We will also continue to endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Now, for the changes. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” as we on 7 Feb. (http://www.vevlynspen.com/2013/02/mbfw-day-1-snapshot-todd-snyders.html). We will also comment on particular pieces from a collection that capture our imagination. Finally, at VEVLYN’S PEN, coverage may take the form of photos with comments underneath, including whether the picture subject tends toward a trend. How’s that? OK, off we go!

Last Day
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): ABRAHAM PELHAM, CALLULA LILLIBELLE , CALVIN KLEIN, JUAN CARLOS OBANDO, MARC JACOBS, RALPH LAUREN

FOR many who attend the parade in New York twice a year, the penultimate day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is the unofficial last day of Fashion Week.

Strong tailoring is a hallmark of Abraham Pelham's work. Photos from Abraham Pelham atelier.

The past few seasons – to the chagrin of many – have seen the tents close after the final show of Day 7 because IMG has not booked any shows on Last Day. Alas, without money to be made, the Fashion Week organizer doesn’t see fit to keep the tents open for anything other than the very private fashion show and party of major sponsor, American Express.

As for as most know, the only games in town on Last Day are Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein; both shows are off site. Of course, there are always other shows, albeit by lesser -designers – those of far less consequence than Ralph and Calvin.

Thankfully, that is slowly changing. Among others showing yesterday were Juan Carlos Obando, Callula Lillibelle and the postponed Marc Jacobs, who showed his simple, no-frills collection under a night sun, then bright lights. (See video at top). Abraham Pelham’s presentation was on the docket, too.

The peach blouse is a many-layered thing.

Those who were fortunate enough to be beckoned to a suite at the Trump International Hotel and Tower on Central Park West to see the Liberian-born designer’s “Femmes de Paris” collection had nothing but praise on their lips. It was deserved.

AP honed his craft at Calvin Klein, Bergdorf Goodman and other fine shops before starting his couture business 21 years ago. In 1998, he took himself off to Paris where he has continued to grow his business, including a ready-to-wear collection for an international clientele. He is a master craftsman in the tradition of Chado Ralph Rucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Dior. In fact, some pieces – namely the cinched-waist, full skirts – are reminiscent of the New Look.

In a nod to modernity, the skirts are above the knee – decently so, of course. Fabrics are luxurious; tailoring is impeccable and especially apparent in the tops, AP’s stock in trade. They are utterly feminine without being frilly or girly. The sleeveless peach blouse with collar and overlapping biased ruching is a prime specimen.

At Abraham Pelham, the skirts contract and expand.

Asked what inspired Femmes de Paris, AP said, “the desire to give women what they want and need.”

And what do women want and need? “Clothes that are well-made and make them feel like women. They want feminine shapes and colors.”

Indeed!

On deck today, Day 1 of London Fashion Week: BORA AKSU, CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA, EUDON CHOI, FELDER FELDER, FYODOR GOLAN, JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA, JENA.THEO, KTZ, PPQ, SASS & BIDE, ZOË JORDAN

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and video; visit http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk to learn more about London Fashion Week, including show information and videos..