Saturday, September 10, 2016

From NYFW Spring 2017 Day 2: Someone Needs to Go Back to the Drawingboard, but It's Not David Tupaz; A Universe of Reasons for Rubin Singer

The best of Vedeta Hanley's latest collection. Photo by VW.


Some of the players from Day 2: Project Runway, Misha Collection, Rubin Singer, Oday Shakar, Lisa N. Hoang, Cushie et Ochs, Francesca Liberatore, Olvine Gabbro, Nicole Miller, Demoo Parkchoonmoo, Control Sector, Vedeta Hanley, Anthony Rubio, Mario de la Torre, David Tupaz, BBTC Nation, Novis, Yigal Azrouel, Club Monaco, Tanya Taylor, Zimmermann, Jason Wu, Area, Milly, AKRIS, Chromat, Pamella Roland, Monse, Nicole Miller, Tommy Hilfiger, Tadashi Shoji, Baja East

creative process is always difficult. Fat too infrequently, superb results are achieved with relative ease.

Far more often, the artist - be s/he a painter, writer, musician, fashion designer - labors long hours in pursuit of a type of perfection that is arrived at by some calculation-defying calculus.

It may look/ sound / feel / taste like nothing special to consumers, but a lot of creative juice went into its making, believe you me.

Of course - where is this existential examination going ...

I am sitting in the Vedeta Henley show at Style Fashion Week with zero expectations, mainly because I am here to see Anthony Rubio's doggie fashion show, which was adorable. And well-done.

I don't expect to be dazzled. Did I say I have zero expectations? VH works in the luxury space and her collection is a mix of after-5 and evening wear.

Overall, the line is pretty and a little sultry. A black banded, v-neck dress with elongated bell-shaped sleeves is a knockout. An attractive floral and white print elevates a gown and pantsuit.

The designer started her own line after years of designing for others: Ralph Lauren, Rocawear, Cynthia Rowley. VH is to be congratulated, for it is no easy feat to start a fashion line. She is to be commended.
She is also to be cautioned, to be reminded of what she already knows. For instance, toss it if the metallic-type fabric used on the lilac and black shift causes it to bunch up in the back, creating an ill-fitting silhouette.

Similarly, work with the p/leather straps on the back of the cropped top to prevent them from riding up the back as if they are the lord of the manor out for a gallop on his favorite mount. Edit, edit, edit. In some other words, nix the print-black shift with cut-outs on the side. It looks like an (wo)manhandled sales bin item. It is not worthy of someone of your talents.

Almost across the board, the fabrics look ... cheap. There, I've said it. And with great reluctance. Is the floral and white a crepe? Regardless, its wrinkles take away from the beauty of the gown/pantsuit. Truth be told, wrinkles are worrying too many garments in this collection.

It pains me to say it, but I liken this collection to a women dressed to the nines with hair that is a mess. Its flaws can be easily fixed, however. Here's to hoping they will be as orders are filled.

So now, Dear Audience, you know the source of my disquiet.

Thankfully, the doggie show lifted these low spirits. And David Tupaz's polished, chic collection set to a catchy ditty set these feet a-tappin' and removed every trace of melancholy.

The show opens with two models with serious hatitude. They are walking abreast of each other, perfectly in step, wearing engaging b&w striped dresses from this Los Angeles-Las Vegas designer. Several garments in this after-5/cocktail/evening wear collection are made over in this attractive stripe print. At the end of the runway, they tip the brims of their massive hats.

The largely paying audience enthusiastically shows its appreciation. The tone of the show is set. Models show off the well-crafted frocks with personality and panache. Flair. Finesse ... Then there is that catchy ditty: "The Americano, the Americano ..." More shortly.

In Rubin Singer, Your Inner Goddess Is Exposed

From the Spring 2017 Rubin Singer collection. Photos by Marie Driscoll.


women adore Rubin Singer, and his Spring 2017 collection, “Into The Deep,” is the next iteration of women in control of their universe.

Fittingly, the scene is set at Highline Stages, which has been transformed into a darkened universe full of twinkling stars.

In this quadrant, a standout is a diva gown, a beautiful sleeveless affair that is striking in its interplay of glistening textiles and dramatic silhouette. Sequins the size of silver dollars cover at least two dresses, perfect outfits for shimmying around the dancefloor.

From the Spring 2017 Rubin Singer collection.

One dress has an asymmetrical hoop hemline with achingly delicate cuffs that seem to drip icicles to the mannequin’s fingertips. It is utterly wearable and collectible. It is also a fine example of the structurally strong garments for which RS is known.

Some ‘80s references are present, but Spring 2017 is so much more than a nod to the past. Metallic, leather, silk, sequins and semi-precious minerals are among the exquisite treatments, a juxtaposition of the ephemeral and the eternal. This reporter is mesmerized by what appears to be druzy on a deep blue bustier ...

“Into the Deep” will bring out the goddess in you.





From the Anthony Rubio Spring 2017 collection. Photos by VW.

On deck today, Day 3: Adam Lippes, Self-Portrait, Lacoste, Jill Stuart, Rebecca Minkoff, Eckhaus Latta, Tibi, Ryan Roche, Son Jung Wan, Banana Republic, Dion Lee, Christian Siriano, Jonathan Simkhai, A Detacher, Sixty-Nine, Simon Miller, Alexander Wang, Paul Andrew, Dan Liu, Vicki Zhang, Etienne Deroeux, Namilia, Layana Aguilar, Collina Strada, Michelle Ann + Janelle Funari, Band of Outsiders, Simon Miller, Binzarro Couture, Academy of Art University, Designers' Collective, Orlando Dugi, Patricia Michaels

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week. Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows

Style 360

Style Fashion Week

Art Hearts Fashion

FTL Moda

Fashion Gallery

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