In New York, Fashion Is Very Much in Style

BY MARIE T. DRISCOLL

NEW Yorkers were still returning from an extended Labor Day holiday, marking the official end of summer and a return to worldly matters, with hardly a moment to spare before paying an eight-day homage to fashion.

Steeped in theatricality and joie de vivre, the beginning of the fashion season is eagerly anticipated by those who hope for a turn in trend, or new silhouette, genuine creativity and commercial potential.

Perennial favorites Carolina Herrera, Diane von Furstenberg, Calvin Klein, Mark Jacobs and Ralph Lauren shared the spotlight with newcomers British brand, All Saints, and Israeli Alon Livné. (See video of CH at top and video of AL show below).

First of all it’s wonderful to see so many New Yorkers or people in New York wearing something other than basic, boring black. Just Love It!, seeing folks channeling their inner fashionista in all manner of color and style. The guys donned bowties and bowlers; the girls stepped out in everything, from flowers to skulls, and of course, my favorite basics – metallics and animal prints.

Second, the shows had something for every style, so there is no palpable trend. Geometrical silhouettes jockeyed along with tulip skirts, bias cuts and pencil skirts. Girls, it’s your choice. Know your body and dress accordingly. The lack of a solid trend hurts commercially, therefore look for a season of more accessories, with spending trending toward jewelry, handbags, shoes and booties.

I did see faux fur and vegan leather (remember pleather?!). Also spotted were bare midriffs and cutouts (marginal at best) and higher waistlines. This could suggest the start of a trend. We’ll see.

Third, RL and CH are the height of elegance. You just can’t go wrong when they dress you. And J Crew is so wearable, so accessible – and talk about vanity sizing (even I’m a 2)! Thank you Mickey and Jenna for elevating fabrications for the masses. (See video of J Crew show below).

I only attended half of the shows I planned to see. The lines were long and the tents were full. Fashion is alive and well in NYC!

I can’t wait until February to experience it all over again.

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

MBFW Day 3: Inside the Box Is Where It's At

Rafael Cennamo: All that glitter is gold. Photo by William Gaines.

HEAD’S UP: That turnaround between September and February always seems short. One is in the middle of the Yuletide season when the notice arrives about registering for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York! Well, here we are at Fall 2013 and a small change in the VEVLYN’S PEN approach to covering Fashion Week. We will still put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits. We will also continue to endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Now, for the changes. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” as we on 7 Feb. (http://www.vevlynspen.com/2013/02/mbfw-day-1-snapshot-todd-snyders.html). We will also comment on particular pieces from a collection that capture our imagination. Finally, at VEVLYN’S PEN, coverage may take the form of photos with comments underneath, including whether the picture subject tends toward a trend. How’s that? OK, off we go!

Day 3
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): A DÉTACHER, BILLY REID, CARMEN MARC VALVO, CHADWICK BELL, CHARLOTTE RONSON, CUSHNIE ET OCHS, GREGORY PARKINSON, HELMUT LANG KATE SPADE NEW YORK, KATIE GALLAGHER, KELLY WEARSTLER, JASON WU, JENNI KAYNE, LYN DEVON, NICOLE MILLER, PIERRE BALMAIN, RAG & BONE, REBECCA MINKOFF, SALLY LAPOINTE, ST. JOHN, SUNO, TESS GIBERSON, THE ELDER STATESMAN, TOCCA, TOMMY HILFIGER, TRIBUNE STANDARD, YIGAL AZROUËL

OH, the complaints one hears about the new address of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York.

It’s too far away; too soulless; too corporate; not right for fashion; hard to get to; it’s just not Bryant Park; it’s a concrete jungle. And on and on and on goes the bellyaching about Lincoln Center. There is, however, one aspect of Lincoln Center that is universally liked.

Yours Truly speaks of the Box tent. It is the venue that hosts presentations that take any number of forms. Usually, up and coming/unknown designers elect to show in this space. It is after all the least costly of the venues at Lincoln Center.

The Box is treated like a stepchild. It is not at all uncommon for fashion writers, fashion editors and others in the know who know better to blow it off, presuming that they won’t miss a thing.

Alon Livne has a wardrobe staple for the woman who lives in a strange, faraway world. Photo by Yours Truly.

Increasingly, though, one can be wrong. The Box is turning out to be the one tent that offers the most unexpected surprises, fanciful arrangements and delectable dainties. Two cases in point are the Rafael Cennamo and Alon Livne presentations on Day 3.

RC is under the influence of Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors, while AL is of the post-apocalyptic world realized by sci-fi master scribe J.G. Ballard. Two completely different starting points, with both arriving at a collection that is outright couture or that incorporates couture elements. What a treat for those inside the Box!

PREDICTION: When all is said and done these two shows will be considered among the best of the week.

On Deck today, Day 4: BLANC DE CHINE, CATHERINE MALANDRINO, CHADO RALPH RUCCI, CUSTO BARCELONA, CYNTHIA ROWLEY, DAVID TLALE, DETAILS MEN'S ACCESSORIES SHOW, DEREK LAM, DIANE FURSTENBERG, DKNY, EMERSON BY JACKIE FRASER-SWAN, JEREMY LAING. JOANNA MASTROIANNI, LELA ROSE, NINA SKARRA, PATRIK ERVELL, THAKOON, TOMMY HILFIGER, TRACY REESE, TRINA TURK, VICTORIA BECKHAM, VIVIENNE TAM, Y-3, ZAC POSEN

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.