From NYFW Fall 2017 Day 1: Snow Can’t Keep Down a Good Show … Looking Back: Nicholas K, Desigual and Tadashi Shoji; Looking Sraight Ahead With Zero Regrets, Michael Costello’s Vixen; All in One Day’s Work at Style Fashion Week – in a Garden

From the Nicholas K Fall 2017 Collection. Photos by VW.

Some of the players on Day 1: Nicholas K, BY. Bonnie Young, Erin Fetherston, Colovos, Cinq a Sept, Haus Alkire, Brock Collectin, Helen Yarmak, Tadashi Shoji, Malan Breton, Michael Ravel, Creatures of Comfort, Honee, Shalini Couture, Patricia Michaels, Commatted, David Tupaz, Mario de la Torre, Zoan Ash, Adrian Alicea, ADEAM, Noon by Noor, M the Movement, Ydamys Simo, Richard Hallmarq, Wangliling, Ulla Johnson, OAK, Adam Selman, Thakoon, Rag & Bone, La Perla, Eddie Eddie by Billy Tommy, Rich by Richie Rich
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BY VW

IN one respect, fashion is like theater: the show(s) must go on.

And they did, on Day 1 of New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2017. Various shows on the New York Fashion Week: The Shows roster as well as Style Fashion Week, one day this season, sent out emails, assuring one and all that the shows were going on, snow and travel difficulties, be damned.

It was a good start for those who ventured out.

NICHOLAS K

MY overall impression watching Nicholas K FW17 is that the whole is greater than the parts.

The Kunz siblings are the creative forces behind the label and have a love jones for layering. It is perhaps the strongest tool in their wheelhouse. This is particularly relevant in this latest collection, which through the prism of recent, troubling events, revisits the 90s and their "promise" of a united global village.

The most visible nod to 90s style is the series of sweaters and shirts wrapped around the waist. A most clever usage of this motif is in the form of built-in shirtsleeves at the waist of a couple of dresses, doing the job of belts. Quite an aesthetic victory.

A series of engaging maxi dresses – some off the shoulder – in various fabrics, also hints at the 90s, as do military-style jackets, which enjoyed a resurgence during that decade. Ditto for the massive hoop earring the models are rocking in one ear like the around the way girls back in the day. Red ensembles are remarkable for being conspicuous in a largely taupe/tan palette.

Meanwhile, layers abound: blouse/shirt, pants, jacket; shirt, dress/skirt jacket, etc. Like the Borg, rather formidable as a unit. Disconnect a silk taupe blouse from the whole, however and it is not so impactful.

DESIGUAL

From the Desigual Fall 2017 Collection. Photos by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images.

In a collection called EXTRAORDINARY, the Spanish label pays homage to a woman inhabiting subcultures of the 60s through 80s. Of course, a woman living and dressing outside of the box.

The brighter the color, the better. Prints (florals), bring them on, as many as you dare. And why not wear dark skirts and on the legs wear white tights overlaid with fishnet tights. Speaking of tights, they should be floral, too. A bonus if they resemble a piece of impressionist art. As for that little denim sleeveless dress, it wants a black lace top underneath and some bedazzling in the form of a floral pattern.

Here is a woman to admire and emulate.

TADASHI SHOJI

A woman who may join others raising their voices against some injustice or dancing the night away in some swanky nightclub. She will be turned out rather baroquely in fine brocade and shining, sparkling. And velvet. An exquisite creature.

MICHEAL COSTELLO

A devil sporting a huge ‘fro and got up in a killer white dress/gowns revealing much, concealing little. Those silver sequin numbers seemed grafted onto her. A showstopper, she doesn’t have a care in the world, least of all you, you, you and you.

On deck today, Day 2: Dan Liu, Calvin Klein Collection, Theatre Products, Oday Shakar, Lanyu, Kate Spade New York, Yigal Azrouel, Hakan Akkaya, Tanya Taylor, Hellessy, LRS New York, Ohlin/D, Milly, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Concept Korea, Cushnie et Ochs, Pamella Roland, Linder, Sachin & Babi, Chromat, Jason Wu, RTA, Vaishali S, Ellena De Luna, Dair by Odair, Club Monaco, Monse, Nicole Miller, Jeremy Scott, TELFAR,

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week.

Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/;

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork;

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/;

CAAFD
http://www.caafd.org/

NYFW: The Shows Day 1 – Maximalism Is the Word, Says Jerome LaMaar (5:31 Jerome); Desigual’s Barcelona Woman Is An Inspiration to Us All; Observing Australia’s Fashion Palette; Why Didn’t Someone Think of the Flygrip Before; What Will Brother Think of Next?

From the 5:31 Jerome S/S 2016 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.

Some of the players on Day 1: Nicholas K, BCBG, Area, Erin Fetherston, Assembly NY, Creatures of the Wind, 5:31 Jerome, Tess Giberson, Brothers Vellies, Tadashi Shoji, M. Martin, Desigual, Marissa Webb, Creatures of Comfort, Natori, Tome, Malan Breton, Raquel Allegra, Ulla Johnson, Rodebjer, Yuna Yang, Edie Parker, Ohne Titel, Gant, Alison Lou, Kempner, Adam Selman

AN arresting sight. A dress. Forest green. Embellished with … sequins, beads, floral appliques and all manner of fripperies.

It would become clear shortly that this is maximalism.

Here is a consequence of not quitting Pier 59 Studios for the Tess Giberson presentation after a quick visit to the necessary.

One imagines, though, that there can be far worse outcomes than a tête-à-tête on the Sundeck during a break in the rainfall with Jerome LaMaar, the creative force behind the emerging line, 5:31 Jerome, which for S/S 2016 is mainly about maximalism.

And what is maximalism? It is the opposite of minimalism, silly.

“Everyone says less is more but in this case more is more and it works,” asserts the F.I.T. grad. “I wanted to show it’s possible to mix more of your ideas to create something that is authentic and wearable, but also glamorous.”

One would be hardpressed to argue against the glam of the black sequined pencil skirt paired with a black boatneck blouse with massive jewel-toned beading and other accents. It works. Indeed, the whole extremely busy capsule collection works.

From the 5:31 Jerome S/S 2016 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.

“I think a lot of us have gotten really comfortable with normcore, that whole moment of ‘I’m just wearing basics all the time’, and we need things to give our wardrobes some life. The whole idea is to make everything as an accessory and make it work.”

JLM, who was taught to sew by his grandmother, found his calling around the age of 6 or 7.

“When I was a kid I wanted to be a designer for 'The Wiz.' I love that movie! That was my favorite, favorite movie. That’s what kind of opened my eyes,” he explains. “When they got to Emerald City, I remember saying, 'I wanna to do that'. I loved the energy."

Less than 10 years later, at the still tender age of 15, he landed an internship at Baby Phat. “And worked my way up the ladder and became the person I am today by mixing in all of my references."

His references caught the attention of Beyonce, the first celebrity, he says, to wear 5:31 Jerome (coat). But what of a more regular girl? "gIt’s interesting. I like girls who are intellectual and sexy,” the Bronx native says thoughtfully.

“I think the idea of being productive and sexy and smart is really attractive. Most people think you have to have one or the other, but I think you can do both. You can easily be both.”

Meanwhile, it has been established that maximalism works, even down to the shoes. Oh, the shoes, not for those afraid of heights.

From the 5:31 Jerome S/S 2016 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.

Himself discloses quite unapologetically: "After going so low to the ground with the pump that everybody has been loving and wearing, it’s time to go back up .. It’s a 70s reference there with the platform ... What goes with maximalism is height, drama, abundance, embellishment and that’s what that is."

But can this maximalism be reproduced within reason, for it has also been established that 5:31 Jerome S/S 2016 is rococo? Couturesque. This does not normally lend itself to easy replication?

What say you, JLM, should Bergdorf Goodman require dozens of the belted leather vest with the circular cutouts framed with silver hardware, or the jeans bearing up under a surfeit of embellishment? What say you?

“How many do you want?”

Desigual

THE women of Barcelona are confident. They are comfortable in their own skin. They don’t follow the trends. They march to their own beat. If they wish to tie a T-shirt on their head in lieu of a scarf, then so be it.

The women of Barcelona are also bold, like Desigual S/S2016, which takes its cues from these iconoclasts. The most obvious manifestation of this boldness is the colors, not surprisingly.

But boldness is also evident in the particular pairings of the various and sundry prints (pink and white skirt check skirt and white top with multi-colored riptide print on bodice and sleeves, for instance) heretofore not part of the Desigual template. Frankly, the result is dazzling.

The Barcelona woman is to be emulated and imitated.

Fashion Palette

Hunt & Heart S/S 2016

Mauricio Alpizar S/S 2016, left, and Duskii S/S2016. Photos by Yours Truly.

IT was the Aussies in the house at Pier 59 Studios for Fashion Palette Australian Women’s Show. It’s a group show with a whopping 12 collections showing one after the other.

A good idea on paper, it taxes the attention span and the patience of those who must dash for another show. Too many scurried out like rats in the darkness between each show. Perhaps, six is enough.

Among the dozen, it was too much of nothing special, save for Antonella Ianni (fashion forward staples in b&w; see video directly above); Simmone Standing (mainly whites with impressive draping); Duskii (attractive, functional and seemingly high-tech swimwear).

Also Hunt & Heart ( eye-catching silhouettes, asymmetry and bandwork, some inferior fabrics [silk, satin] notwithstanding).

Honorable mention goes to Mauricio Alpizar (mainly too costumey, with a couple of exceptions and vibrant color palette).

Really, The Burning Question Is Why Hadn't Someone Created the Flygrip Sooner?

Michael Karmatz invented the Flygrip out of necessity. Photo by Yours Truly

It's' simple. You affix it directly to the back of your phone or phone case. Lift the lever. Slide your ring finger and middle finger underneath.

Now, cradle the phone against your fingers, without allowing it to slide into the palm. Turn it over. Your thumb is hovering over the screen. You are good to go. Start tapping without the fear of dropping your delicate device. Do note that your other hand is free to do something else.

The Flygrip has emancipated you, allowing you to get all kinds of things done. That was the intent of Flygrip creator Micheal Karmatz, a multi-tasker, like most in the developed world.

The Flygrip can be easily and securely affixed to the back of a phone or phone case. Photo by Yours Truly.

During a brief chat in the Nextpert Stylextech Lounge, where Brother products were also doing various tricks with the stitch, MK gave Yours Truly the backstory on the Flygrip. Stay tuned for the Q&A.

On deck today, Day 2: CG, Gabriela Hearst, Wes Gordon, Jonathan Cohen, Visvim, Jason Wu, Yigal Azrouel, Novis, Kate Spade, Ida Cohen, Custo Barcelona, Zimmermann, Tanya Taylor, Rosie Assoulin, Sally LaPointe, Betsey Johnson, Karigam,Polo, Cushnie et Ochs, Giulietta, Max Gengos, Pamella Roland, Kye, Ryan Roche, Nicole Miller, Givenchy, Zang Toi, Chromat, Academy of Art University

Visit http://www.flygrip.com to learn more about the Flygrip; visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.

MBFW Day 1: At Desigual, Be Happy and Go Exploring with Nicholas K

Ensembles from the Desigual Spring-Summer 2015 collection. Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

HEADS UP: It's early September and that means one important thing in the ragtrade: fashion trade shows. To that end, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2015. As we at VEVLYN'S PEN endeavor to bring some interesting fashion news to our dear readers, we don't mind changing with the seasons. One small tweak this season, each day one (perhaps two) designers/labels will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy. Thank you for your support!

Day 1
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): BIG PARK, CREATURES OF THE WIND, DESIGUAL, DUCKIE BROWN, GIGI BURRIS, HONOR, JAY GODFREY, MARISSA WEBB, NICHOLAS K, MENS COLLECTIVE, PERRY ELLIS, SIMON MILLER, SUPIMA, TADASHI SHOJI, ULLA JOHNSON, YUNA YANG

IT'S summertime and the living is easy. That's the point at Desigual whose Spring-Summer 2015 collection is inspired by flora and fauna.

The Spanish label threw in with très exuberant French designer Christian Lacroix to spawn the “Happy casual” collection.

A body does need a reason to be happy on Day 1 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York. Alas, the New World Order that came to power in February has not yet been usurped, though the opposition is making its displeasure known by boycotting the tents at the often-despised Lincoln Center. Who is this opposition? Look at the show schedule for clues.

In this charged environment, Desigual admonishes us to not worry; be happy, for the world is still a good place, a place where there still exists warmth, color and vibrancy.

Even when colors are oddly a bit muted in this collection, such as in the belted dress of gray and salmon that looks like a sister from another mister, they inspire us toward fun, giving us a reason to smile, fueling our optimism, forcing us to embrace the bright side.

Desigual SS 2015 is a massive offering of utterly wearable dresses, skirts, a random jacket and pants, done up in the most fanciful way. Though these frocks are retail friendly, they are not the type that can be found any and everywhere.

For good reason – prints are intimidating for a lot of folk. The beauty, excitement and anticipation of watching a show like Desigual or Custo Barcelona is to see in which direction the prints will go.

It takes some skill to produce prints season after season and somehow keep them fresh. Yet, the aforementioned labels seem to have mastered it. At Desigual, the eye does not tire of watching the next outfit, not just because the models are smiling, toting cute signs and being ever so playful to varying degrees of success and sincerity.

The outfits are engaging, inviting the viewer to take a closer look, teasing, making a body wonder how did they do that. Indeed, how do they do that? How do they take that v-neck dress and make it over in b&w&b stripe, b&b stripe, b&w polka dot, seafoam green floral, salmon floral, white floral and so on?

The myriad print tableau is a leitmotif at Desigual, but under CL's influence it seems ramped up a notch. It is dizzying and it works. Who would think to do this themselves? Virtually no one. These clothes make you smile, forcing you to really believe in the notion of happiness in spite of the zeitgeist of the moment.

For a moment, or around 12 minutes, one forgets about the New World Order and its nonsense.

SNAPSHOT: Nicholas K
Nicholas K Spring-Summer 2015. Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Nicholas K is for women only for SS 2015. And the Nicholas K woman, inspired by an intrepid sister-friend, is going exploring. Her adventure takes her to the desert for firsthand knowledge of that nomadic lifestyle. For her journey, she's wearing loose-fitting mostly deconstructed jackets, dresses and pants made from breathable fabrics in mainly black, taupe and white. Her getups hang insouciantly about her, resulting in laidback and elegant silhouettes. These are many-layered affairs appropriate for desert conditions, which can swing ruthlessly from frigid to sweltering. During windy periods when the sands can kick up a furious storm, she can easily pull a hood over her head. Under the bright sun, her eyes are saved from squinting by shades with proper UV protection. Happy trails.

On Deck today, Day 2: A MOI, CARMEN MARC VALVO, CADET, KATE SPADE NEW YORK, LYN DEVON, MARK AND ESTEL, MONIQUE LHUILLER, NICOLE MILLER, NONOO, SAUNDER, TANYA TAYLOR, TESS GIBERSON, WES GORDON

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.