NYFW: The Shows Day 4 – At Refined Public School, Common Gets What He Wants, While Renee Elise Goldsberry Experiences Her First Day; Wild Stuff at FTL Moda

Some of the players on Day 4: Fashion Shenzen, Public School, Derek Lam, Rachel Zoe, Lie Sangbong, Jenny Packham, Ground Zero, Georgine, Prabal Gurang, Vivienne Hu, FTL Moda, Elie Tahari, Chloe Gosselin, Hood by Air, Tracy Reese, Nicopanda, LaQuan Smith, Thakoon, Designers’ Premier, Carmen Steffens, Diane von Furstenburg, Anna’s Loud, Wild, Alexandra Frida, Jonathan Simkhai, Edun, Georgine, Binzario Couture

It has a more refined edge. These are the thoughts of Yours Truly as I watch the S/S 2016 Public School show.

Common has some thoughts, too, and shares them most eloquently. “That’s was incredible. Public School is one of my favorite artistic expressions. Their fashion line is what we want, man. It’s got everything we want in it."

The swarm around Common after the Public School S/S 2016 show at Skylight at Moynihan Station. Photo by Yours Truly.

And what does the singer, actor poet want? “I want things that feel fresh, things that feel new. Things that feel grounded but at the same time artistic. And when you wear it, it feels light. You feel like, ‘awright, this is fly and it’s comfortable and it’s beautiful.’ It’s got everything. I love it.”

Heretofore, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne have leaned heavily toward a street sensibility – an aesthetic with a more pronounced swagger.

However, the black stripe gaia long coat has a sophistication that evokes an uptown vibe. Hugh Hefner might want to trade in his trademark pajamas for such a frock.

Renee Elise Goldsberry (“Hamilton,” “One Life to Live”), fetching in a black, white and gray Public School sleeveless zip-front dress with pleated skirt has a favorite, too.

“There was this one sheer jacket that had some embroidered flowers on the side. It was all sheer; it was absolutely beautiful.” (feather embroidered black crepe gaia jacket).

The actress, who made her New York Fashion Week: The Shows debut at Public School (her first professional fashion show), added: “In general, I think the theme of the very loose, structured clothing inspired me.” (See video above).

The collection, done in mainly black and white – a signature of the label – is an expression of self-possessed calm.

No one will think you are trying too hard of you’re turned out in the chunky intarsia knit pullover and bonded kara skirt in off white.

FTL MODA – Wild

AMONG this year’s crop of designers (including Anna's Loud, Carmen Steffens and Alexandra Frida)showing under the Italy-based FTL Moda banner, the most notable is Wild.

Barefoot models. Slowly walking down the runway. In a trancelike state. Various suede and shearling ensembles. Snatches of red satin. Engaging. All.

FTL MODA – Anna’s Loud

FTL MODA – Alexandra Frida

FTL MODA – Carmen Steffens

On deck today, Day 5: Concept Korea, The Row, Carolina Herrera, Jil Sander, Lela Rose, Designers’ Showcase, Houghton, Cristina Ruales, Brock Collection Eckhaus Ratta, First Lady by Pamela Humphrey’s, Barbara TFrank, Jeremy Scott, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Gabriela Cadena, Mitsou Ly, Thom Browne, Mansur Gavriel, Ese Azenabor, Zac Posen, Morgane Le Fay

Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.

International Woolmark Prize USA Award: Can Tanya Taylor and Siki Im Pull Out Another Win for the Americas on the World Stage?

Tanya Taylor and model (right) with Michelle A. Lee and Francisco Costa after the 2015 International Woolmark (IWP) Prize Regional USA womenswear winner is announced. Photos by Yours Truly.

SHE'S going to make it after all – both Tanya Taylor and the women wearing such a winning getup.

The Toronto-born, New York-based designer walked away Tuesday night with the 2015 International Woolmark (IWP) Prize Regional USA award for best womenswear, presented by one of the judges of the competition, Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa. Ski Im took the IWP for best menswear during the ceremony at Milk Studios.

The 62-year-old award, refurbished in 2012, is given annually to the (creator[s] of the) best womenswear design and for the second time in its inception, best menswear design, of an outfit done exclusively in Australian merino wool.

Both designers move on to compete in the international finals and a chance to nab a repeat for the Americas. Also at stake is $100,000 Australian dollars, as well as possible placement in shops such as Saks, Mytheresa.com, Harvey Nichols, Isetan Mitsukoshi and David Jones.

TT's entry, which harkens to Mary Richards of The Mary Tyler Moore Show fame, is a ribbed two-toned, A-line turtleneck dress. The top portion is white; the skirt portion is a wide plaid of black, Kelly green and red. On the sleeves are stripes in red, Kelly green and olive green stripes on the sleeve. (See video above).

It is overlaid with a sleeveless, collared black maxi vest with pockets that have a ribbed olive green flap. It is accented with a red, white and Kelly green pin at the breast. For the head, a turban in a matching print.

The ensemble wouldn't be wasted during a Minnesota winter. And it fits the utterly feminine, but not necessarily flirty template for which the designer is becoming known since she struck out on her own in 2011.

TT earned a finance degree before she would continue her education at Parsons School of Design. She possesses the type of professional DNA of a designer/design team Australia-based The Woolmark Company would select to compete for its regional and international prize.

Regional winners in Asia, Australia, Europe, India/Middle East and the US receive the equivalent of $50,000 Australian dollars. Like a typical IWP nominee and winner, TT is emerging, though she is blazing trails in a very short period of time. Her line is sold at Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Holt Renfrew and Nordstrom, for instance. She has also received good notices during New York Fashion Week.

Likewise has Siki Im. The designer also comported himself well at the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s last week.

SI worked for Helmut Lang and former IWP winner Karl Lagerfeld before striking out on his own in 2009. He presents a subtly tailored matching jacket and slacks with v-neck sweater, shawl and cap (beret, perhaps) with a gangster lean.

A former architect and an Asian who grew up in Germany, SI has admitted to embracing dichotomy in his work. To that end, the effect of his ensemble is one of relaxed elegance and a little bit of the rebel.

The look that won Siki Im the 2015 International Woolmark (IWP) Prize Regional USA award for menswear.

International finals winners for menswear will be named in Florence in January 2016; for women, in New York in February 2016. Last year's USA regional womenswear victor Marica Patmos (M. Patmos) also took the international prize. (See video above; http://www.bit.ly/1LBivEv).

Meanwhile, observing the scene on stage before the winners are announced is Maxwell Osborne, one half of both last year's USA regional menswear winner and the 2015 international menswear winner, Public School. (See video above). And what difference does a year make?

"I was nervous," returns the laconic MO.

Visit the following Web sites to learn more:
http://www.tanyataylor.com/
http://www.sikiim.com/
http://www.woolmarkprize.com

Public School Big Man on Campus With International Woolmark Prize USA Award

Public School designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne with the model wearing a winning get-up (center). Photos courtesy of The Woolmark Company.

THE gray&black hoodie and baggie short get-up in leather and wool is a high concept piece from the design team, Public School.

It also won the 2014 International Woolmark Prize Regional USA award for best menswear in the first year that The Woolmark Company, for which the IWP is named, is introducing an award for menswear.

“We wanted to create something timeless,” Dao-Yi Chow explained after the awards ceremony Monday night at Milk Studios in New York. “We created this story about this world where only one fiber existed. And in this world is a lost tribe that based theier existence on merino wool.”

The judges, including Alexander Wang, apparently bought the story, and Public School walked away with a glass plaque, plus $47,000 USD. A regional win also advances the label to compete in the menswear finals in January 2015 in London against the winners from the other four regional finals – Asia, Australia, Europe and India/Middle East. Success in the finals will net Public School or the eventual winner nearly $100,000 and placement in select high-end retail stores around the world, including Saks Fifth Avenue and David Jones.

The 2014 International Woolmark Prize Regional USA award nominees.

Australia-based The Woolmark Company is an authority on wool and merino wool. It has presented the IWP to emerging designers to help them develop and sale their collections for 61 years, retooling it in 2012. Past alums include two giants in the rag trade, Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent.

The IWP USA regional winner for womenswear was M. Patmos, designed by Marcia Patmos. She produced an understated, slightly deconstructed coat, top and abbreviated bell-bottomed pants ensemble in gray&white. She will compete in March 2015 in the womenswear finals in Beijing.

Meanwhile USA menswear winner, Public School, is a label that is made in New York and created by a duo that was also made in New York. Founded in 2008, Public School sources from references high and low, far and wide to create relaxed, laidback, effortless affairs in a color palette that is mainly black&white&gray. In February, during Mercdes-Benz New York Fashion Week, the label introduced womenswear to good notices.

Marcia Patmos (left) with the model wearing her IWP-winning womenswear outfit.

The minds behind the magic are content to bask in the glow of this latest success, not thinking overmuch about January. But what will Public School do with the nearly $50 grand? They're not going to Disney World.

“It goes right back into the infrastructure,” baritoned Maxwell Osborne, the other half of the design team.

Visit the following Web sites to learn more:
http://www.publicschoolnyc.com/
http://www.mpatmos.com/
http://www.woolmarkprize.com