IT’S that time of year. Just about everybody is feeling just a little wicked, including the good people at Nicholas K.
To that end, the label offers the Fall WICKED Sale. No tricks. The deal is pretty straightforward: Everything – every stitch – for Fall 2012 is 15 percent off. (Enter code: WICKED at checkout online.)
This season, designer Nicholas Kunz was inspired by the West of the United States, whether it be the characters of the Wild West or artist types that form the mosaic of the Southwest. This vision is most overtly clear in the fringe, cowboy hats and Aztec-like prints. At moments it seems, NK is also channeling the flapper era through a few dresses, in particular. (See video above of Fall 2012 collection shown during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at New York in February.)
Jedda Boot in mink has side zipper and top buckle strap, over-the-knee leather panel, platform wedge and wood-covered heel ($826.00) Photos from Nicholas K Web site.
Inspiration not withstanding, the collection is on sale only through Halloween (31 Oct.). Interested bodies should not dither, especially those in the path of Hurricane Sandy on the East Coast of the United Sates who have power and time on their hands.
Note to the uninitiated, Nicholas K works with layers for both women and men, but no one should feel intimidated by the tableau. On the Web site, the looks are broken down into the parts of their sum, e.g, “outerwear,” “pants,” “tops,” “shirt,” “dresses” and so on. (See picture show below of some parts.)
The ensems do look rather cool, though, combined the way they are on the video, no?
Zev Onyx flat-front pant in leather and cotton-stretch jersey ($665.00) and Thorn Shirt in viscose with scoop back and fringe ($902.00).
For Him
Kilmer Jacket in wool and viscose with draped front and tie-front closure ($688.00) and Cole Pant in polyester and viscose with elastic at hem, cuffs and back waistband. ($244.00).
For Her
Harlot Dress in viscose and printed Georgette with long sleeve and cutout shoulder ($221.00) and Zuma Jacket in leather with faux fur outer layer, leather fringe and two-way zipper/buckle closure ($1,163.00).
For Him
Yale Scarf in alpaca wool with hood and rib detail ($249.00) and Wellard Shirt in cotton with two-way zipper/button front and dual-button flap chest pockets ($244.00).
Models on the runway toward the end of the Ozwald Boateng show. Photo from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Website.
HEAD’S UP: Continuing the approach we adopted commencing with the Fall 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, VEVLYN'S PEN will put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway, rather than a sort of “best of the lot, even if it’s not that good.” Why the change? Simply put, we have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires, we will tell you so and tell you why. We still endeavor, however, to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.
Day 1
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Nicholas K, BCBGMaxAzria, Kaelen, Richard Chai, Siki Im, Chadwick Bell, Tadashi Shoji, Monika Chiang, Duckie Brown, Arise Magazine Presents: African Icons, Supima, The Art Institute of New York City, Katie Gallagher, Honor, Costello Tagliapietra, Kimberly Ovitz, Jenni Kayne, Steven Alan, Veronica Beard, Creatures of the Wind, Lisa Perry, Erin Fetherston
IT was around siesta time when the joint at the first day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was shaken out of its slumber. The ruckus was caused by the man himself – or rather his presentation – Ozwald Boateng.
BEST SPECTACLE and BEST PRESENTATION – Showing for the first time at New York and under the rubric of Arise Magazine Presents: African Icons, OB injected a motherlode of energy into what heretofore had been a rather tame affair. That applies not only to the day, but also to others showing under the Arise umbrella.
Rather than send the models out one by one, the Ghanian jettisoned them in a group that stood abreast of each other. This was a force and it may have had arms underneath some of those snazzy suit jackets. The force would not be moved; it stood at the mouth of the runway stoically looking straight ahead, daring anyone who dared. It was a formidable sight.
When the force deigned to move itself, each individual member made his way down the runway, oozing out of every pore in his finely honed body virility and self-possession. His presence is so huge that this kind of man – dressed as he is, radiating the type of energy he is – sucks all of the air out of the room. This is a man with the plan and he is dressed to kill or whatever else you got.
In a word, the show was a spectacle – and that’s a good thing. “That’s how they do it in London,” one wag exclaimed of the city where OB resides. Alas, there is not yet any video. Inexplicably, none appears on the MBFW Web site either. Is this a total diss?
When you on occasion combine blindingly bright West African prints and by-the-book Savile Row tailoring, producing garments that are – hot dog! – out of sight, by golly, put on a spectacle. And yes, end it with a sergeant type inspecting the troops, for they will pass muster because you have ruthlessly and effortless applied the training you received in style bootcamp.
IT’S ALL COPASETIC – Elsewhere around Day 1, opener Nicholas K was totally chill. The aviator-framed eyeglasses and cloche-shaped beanie worn by some of the female models could cause one to wonder whether designer Nicholas Kunz had air travel on her mind. Of course, it could be the way the anoraks and other jackets, as well as some of the dresses are held aloft behind the models making their way insouciantly down the runway. Whatever it was, it was easy on the eye and wearer-friendly. While NK doesn’t go for the razzmatazz of an OB, she makes an impression in a lowkey way. The Spring-Summer 13 collection is laidback, heavy on layers as it the norm at Nicholas K. (See video above). Nothing wows, but that series of silks/satins in burnt/orange for women provides a nice visual among the other more subdued colors and fabrics. Ditto for the trio of seafoam green (Nicholas K calls it soy) ensembles toward the end.
A look from The Art Institute of New York City show that very few likely saw. Photo by Fernanda Calfat for Getty Images
TRIED&TRUE AND S&M – Meanwhile, BCBGMaxAzria is successful because the husband-wife team of Max and Lubov Azria puts a premium on quality materials. Often that makes all the difference, especially if one is not stoked on innovation and doesn't possess mad sewing skills. SS13 takes inspiration from femme fatale muses and the b&w photography of Helmut Newton. Bands, belts and straps lend to the proceedings an S&M quality. After a while they also prove rather monotonous; just about every look is trussed thusly. The vision is best captured by the black lace dress with little embellishment from bands and such. A series of dresses bearing prints that are reminiscent of grandma’s quilt are quite fetching. Perhaps, they represent the femme fatale before so heartlessly her bloom of innocence was plucked. (See video below).
THEY GOT ROBBED! – What is it about design schools and their shows being scheduled smack-dab in the middle of Fashion’s Night Out. It happened in 2009, the first year of FNO, to the Academy of Art University. Did IMG (the outfit that puts on MBFW) not get the memo. Once it understandable, but twice is – come on now! Last night, who was showing way too late in the Studio tent but The Art Institute of New York City. At 7 p.m. An hour into FNO, which officially was from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. No one knows anybody who made that AAU show in 2009. Everybody was out partying and ostensibly doing a little shopping. Yours Truly dropped in first at BCBG where New York City police commissioner Ray Kelly was getting his boogie on. The fact that the San Francisco-based AAU sent out links to the video of its show, apologizing to those who missed it, suggests there were lots of empty seats in the Theatre tent. Will TAINYC follow suit? Stay tuned.
WE GOT ROBBED! – Fashion’s Night Out is so over, at least on the Upper East Side. Last night, the Madison Avenue corridor between 59th and 72nd streets resembled a ghost town shortly after nightfall. A few stores – J Mendel, Michael Kors and DKNY, for instance – had a party going but most of them had shuttered or were shuttering. Security guards were stationed at the door to keep revelers out, only opening it for those who were exiting the joint. Some stores may quit, owing to trifling traffic. ESCADA at one point was empty. Empty! My FNO companion and I concluded that, in part, the intimidation factor may be in play.
As Companion remarked, the stores are no longer getting any benefit from this exercise in commerce that isn't, so won’t be bothered. She was speaking specifically of the Valentino, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein and Armanis of the world. Armani couldn’t even be bothered with having a party at its store in the high ‘60s.
Last year, Armani hosted Samuel L. Jackson and Angela Bassett who were in New York to star in a Broadway play about Martin Luther King, Jr. The year before, Armani hosted a Q&A with Lauren Hutton. Beverly Johnson was there! In 2009-2011, the joint at Valentino was jumpin’, man. The atmosphere was electric. One year there was celebrity poker; last year, Tracy Morgan was one of the celebrities who stepped up for karaoke. These parties went until at least around 10 p.m. The last two years, I ended my night at CH Carolina Herrera around 11 p.m.ish. Though the FNO Web site indicated that this year’s party would end at 11 p.m., the boutique was darkened before 9 p.m.; ditto for Calvin Klein. So many shops followed Armani’s example and had nothing. Bummer!!!!
On Deck today, Day 2: Fashion Law Institute, Czar by Cesar Galindo, Harlem's Fashion Row, Project Runway, Concept Korea, W118 by Walter Baker, Rebecca Minkoff, Pamella Roland, Tommy Hilfiger, Nicole Miller, Todd Snyder, Charlotte Ronson, ELLE Fashion/NEXT, Academy of Art University, Parkchoonmoo, Kara Ross, Project Runway, Concept Korea, Noon by Noor, Erin Barr,Rafael Cennamo, Rubin & Chapelle, Sherri Hill, Elena Vasilevsky
Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.
Day 1 Pictorial Arise Tiffany Amber and Ozwald Boateng. Photos by Michael Loccisano for Getty Images.
Tadashi Shoji Photos by Mike Coppola for Getty Images.
Monika Chiang Photos by Cindy Ord for Getty Images.
Richard Chai Photos by Frazer Harrison for Getty Images.
Supima Photos by Fernanda Calfat for Getty Images.
HEAD’S UP: Can you believe it's Fashion Week already? That respite between September and February seems very short, especially since press registration notices started arriving during the crush of the holiday shopping season. In any case, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York has returned for the Fall 2012 edition. At VEVLYN'S PEN, we are going to do things slightly different this season. I still endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.
The change will be most apparent in show coverage. Where before I was doing a sort of "best of," I will tweak that this season and focus on what truly inspires me. Why the change? Simply put, I have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires me, I will tell you so and tell you why. Let the games begin ...
Day 1 (SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): BCBG Max Azria, Candela, Carlos Luna, Chadwick Bell, Honor, House of James Troisi, Jet Set Collective, Joseph Abboud, Kaelen, Kate Gallagher, Megla M, Nicholas K, Pamela Quinzi, Tadashi Shoji, Teresa Rosati, Vassilis Zoulias, Yuna Yang
“I want to see something that will make me go, Oh my God – with a pause – Oh. My. God,” a Boston acquaintance asserts with the enthusiasm of someone who has figured out precisely what is missing from the spaghetti sauce.
The Fall 2012 Nicholas K collection sometimes channels the Wild West. Photo by Mike Coppola/Getty Images.
At the time of this epiphany last night, we are milling about the lobby of The Shops at The Plaza watching Yuna Yang’s intermittent presentation in progress. The remarks of this boutique owner, an exquisite lady of a certain age, are informed by the fact that she is back in the bosom of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York for the first time in an age. (She spoke wistfully of the era when the incomparable Naomi Campbell ruled the runways). “The models make the clothes,” declared she.
Acquaintance is also being rather loquacious because there are no OMG! moments at YY, though a couple of looks merit trifling recognition w/caveats. A moss green gown with draping at the bodice, perhaps representing the fairytale sphere of the fairytale/real world/androgynous triangle the designer seeks to evoke in a collection inspired by Virginia Woolf’s “A Room of One’s Own,” has promise. It can benefit from a re-do in something other than Japanese tensile jersey and relief from that interfering white or silver lining. My attention is drawn to a shirt dress in electric blue for no other reason that the color is rather brilliant in bright sort of way.
Whereas Acquaintance wants OMG!, Yours Truly will settle for the lesser superlative, Wow!
The first day of MBFW lacked any Wow! moments but as I alluded yesterday (http://www.bit.ly/wchnAD), Nicholas K is back in the saddle after taking a spill in September with a rather lethargic, white-heavy collection. (See video above).
For Fall 2012, BCBG Max Azria seems disconcertingly familiar. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.
Designer Nicholas Kunz does not state her inspiration, however, it is clear that she is taking cues from the Wild West. The cowboy hats, fringe and maxi coats are obvious touchstones. Here, too, is some Asian influence, most notably represented by deconstructed jackets, as well as the asymmetrical mohair jackets that whisper of Mongolia. Hints of the Flapper period also pop up, the biggest clue being pin-thin, bedazzled fringe.
Not to complicate matters too much, a number of men’s jackets are constructed to the point that their wearer would be permitted to dine in certain fine establishments. And what of those eye-catching shell-like necklaces for women?
Whatever the influences, they are combined and the effect is mostly pretty darn cool. Witness for women, the black asymmetrical leather jacket w/lazy collar and leather fringe at hem. It is worn over black leather skinny pants and worn under a mohair shrug with leather fringe. Atypical for the Nicholas K man but retaining the quotient cool is the constructed jacket and pant in gray, accompanied by gray shirt and gray outwear jacket (w/sleeves scrunched up) topped off by a black cowboy hat.
In a collection of 54 looks, most composed of at least three pieces, there are bound to be a few that don’t compute. I give you the Maya dress in teal with draping at bodice and hips along with the gray, fringed flapper dress, suggesting that the designer is out of her comfort zone with one-piece affairs. Meanwhile for men, the black jacket, gray cableknit sweater and gray two-tone haremlike pants ensem a tad pedestrian. Alas, it ain't got that swing.
Megla M. combines two loves into one garment. Photo courtesy of Megla M.
What else can be said of Day 1? Let’s see Tadashi Shoji showed a competent, yet unremarkable evening wear collection. Gotta love Max and one does. Alas, it looks like designer Azria called in the Fall 2012 BCBG Max Azria collection from his villa on the Italian Riviera (or some similarly swanky locale). It is a continuation of Spring 2012 (or is retread the word?) done in hues more muted with the addition of fur hideous.
Megla M designer Stamatia Megla combines her love of both fashion and theater to spawn two quilted kimono-style gowns w/bustles that show promise as does an insouciant black quilted bubble top with dolman-sleeves. The London-based, Greek-born designer makes her U.S. debut with the caption collection. Another on the NOLCHA Fashion Week 2012 bill with MM at the Alvin Ailey Dance Studios was Vassilis Zoulias who proves that he has hattitude and therefore one day will design hats that will be the envy of Ascot.
Tadashi Shoji & Joseph Abboud
Photos by Frazer Harrison and Joe Kohen/Getty Images.
Richard Chai & Chadwick Bell Photos by Mike Coppola and Mark Von Holden/Getty Images.
On deck today, Day 2: Academy of Art University, Ann Yee, Anne Bowen, Billy Reid, Brandon Son, Charlotte Ronson, Cushnie et Ochs, Doo.Ri, Emilio Sosa, The Greenshows - Collection Previews, General Idea, Gregory Parkinson, Helmut Lang, Jason Wu, Jen Kao, Katya Leonovich, NAHM, Nautica, Nicole Miller, Parkchoonmoo, Peter Som, Rag & Bone, Rebecca Minkoff, Rebecca Taylor, Rubin&Chapelle, St. John, Suno, Tess Giberson, Tommy Hilfiger Men's, Yigal Azrouel
An ensemble from the Nicholas K Fall 2012 collection. Photo by Chris Moore Getty Images.
HEAD’S UP: Can you believe it's Fashion Week already? That respite between September and February seems very short, especially since press registration notices started arriving during the crush of the holiday shopping season. In any case, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York has returned for the Fall 2012 edition. At VEVLYN'S PEN, we are going to do things slightly different this season. I still endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.
The change will be most apparent in show coverage. Where before I was doing a sort of "best of," I will tweak that this season and focus on what truly inspires me. Why the change? Simply put, I have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires me, I will tell you so and tell you why. Let the games begin ...
AFTER wandering aimlessly in a whitewashed land for Spring 2012, Nicholas K landed in a town somewhere in the Wild West just in time for the Fall 2012 harvest.
There's a new sheriff in this dusty, lawless town and s/he is dressed to kill, if necessary, in multi-layered get-ups with maximum cool, attitude, asymmetry and fluidity. Topping it off is a black hat worthy of Clint Eastwood in his "man with no name" westerns.
Check in tomorrow for more from Nicholas K and others on show this first day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York.
Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.
An ensemble from the Emerson Spring 2012 collection. Photo by Paul Maffi.
IN a few hours at (9 a.m. or thereabouts), Nicholas K will rule the runway, kickstarting the eight-day relay known as Fashion Week, or more formally, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2012. This season marks the first full year at Lincoln Center.
Designers and siblings Nicholas and Christopher Kunz have been mum about Spring 2012 but it is not expected that they will stray from form. That is, smartly deconstructed classic silhouettes for men and women that take to layering, mixing/matching and throwing a nice wrench into a look that wants to be too buttoned down. All is subtle, including the colors.
Others showing today, which is a short one owing to Fashion’s Night Out (http://www.fashionsnightout.com/), include Porter Grey, BCBG Max Azria, Richard Chai, Francis Hendyupima and Catherine Malandrino.
As with every season there are new faces. One for Spring 2012 is the Boston-based Emerson. According to Emerson’s pr, the “collection embodies the powerful and free-spirited modern woman. “
The new face of the entryway into the main tent at Lincoln Center. Photo courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
Designer Jackie Fraser-Swan hues toward dichotomy: rock&romance, couture&contemporary, black&white. Dichotomy is part of human nature and even more so for JF-S whose label, Emerson, is taken from both her middle name and that of progenitor Ralph Waldo E.
In things new elsewhere at Fashion Week, the façade at the main tent has been spruced up. And many of the shows this season, including Nicholas K, will be streamed live (http://www.youtube.com/liverunway) …
Nicholas K, above and below, opens Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week with familiar fare. "Project Runway" Season 7 contestants Jay Nicolas Sario and Mila Hermanovski have clearly kissed and made up. Top photos/Getty Images; bottom photo/Yours Truly.
HEAD'S UP: Just like last time, the plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Mind, this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because I can’t be everywhere. But depend on it, I’ll do my best. Drum roll, please …
Day 1 (SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Nicholas K, "Project Runway," Ruffian, Anne Bowen, Bensoni, Mara Hoffman, Candela, Concept Korea, Christian Siriano, Verrier, Daniel Vosovic
WITHNicholas K's chill, urban, easy world view, Spring 2011 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week kicked off from its new home at Lincoln Center. Designers Christopher and Nicholas Kunz's uber hip collection fits nicely at Lincoln Center, if it is a little casual. But this is casualness with sophistication and edge and without a bad attitude.
The color scheme is vintage Nicholas K: mainly grey, muted brown/green khaki and creme. While they are not the colors most readily associated with spring, the shapes are definitely on-season. No reinventing any wheels here, but the Nicholas K customer will be pleased and can shop the line with an eye toward enhancing what's already in the closet/drawer.
Next out of the gate: "Project Runway." The excitement in the Stage is palpable. Several contestants are in the house. There's the loquacious Anthony Williams (Season 7) charming and wowing the worshipful crowd with his Southern hospitality vibe. We take a bad picture together, and he informs Yours Truly that he is working on a new line and has a number of projects in the loop, "but I can't talk about them because they're not official. I don't want nobody comin' after me talkin' about plagarism," he confides, referring to my previous query about whether he was just signing his name to copies of Tim Gunn's new book, "Gunn's Golden Rules" inside the rather heavy gift bag.
I am promoted to a seat closer to the front - right next to Jay Nicolas Sario. I ask Himself whether I know him. Then the light turns on, but not before he gives me to know that I may know him because he looks like some other Asian - because, of course, all Asians look the same. I assure him that he is wrong and explain why I know that all Asians or blacks or blondes don't all look alike.
"Most of the time we just scan over people," says JS. He's flying back to the West Coast to continue working magic on his Spring 2011 line, which will show in Miami, San Francisco and Portland, Oregon and a few other points - but not New York. "But when we really look at them we see them for the people they are."
Sitting next to Jay is his former nemesis from Season 7 - Mila Hermanovski. She's wearing a (of course) b&w dress and a smashing silver YSL collar necklace. It costs some people $1,000.00, but MH copped hers at an outlet for a lot, lot less. Not surprisingly, she is also working on her Spring 2011 collection. Naturally it is b&w.
"There's also a little color - some chartreuse and aqua to shock people who think I only do black and white." And a shock of color in honor of spring, she concurs to my leading question.
Jedda Boot in mink has side zipper and top buckle strap, over-the-knee leather panel, platform wedge and wood-covered heel ($826.00) Photos from Nicholas K Web site.
Zev Onyx flat-front pant in leather and cotton-stretch jersey ($665.00) and Thorn Shirt in viscose with scoop back and fringe ($902.00).
Kilmer Jacket in wool and viscose with draped front and tie-front closure ($688.00) and Cole Pant in polyester and viscose with elastic at hem, cuffs and back waistband. ($244.00).
Harlot Dress in viscose and printed Georgette with long sleeve and cutout shoulder ($221.00) and Zuma Jacket in leather with faux fur outer layer, leather fringe and two-way zipper/buckle closure ($1,163.00).
Yale Scarf in alpaca wool with hood and rib detail ($249.00) and Wellard Shirt in cotton with two-way zipper/button front and dual-button flap chest pockets ($244.00).
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