Showing posts with label Rose. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rose. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Cruising: Get Onboard for 'La Nuit en Rosé'

Cruisegoers on "La Nuit en Rosé" can sample Aix, from Provence, a pleasant melange of grenache, cinsault, syrah, and counoise. Photos from respective wineries.

HEADS UP: Summertime is coming. That means many things. For wine drinkers, it means that Rosés are in bloom. Guest writer Joel Levin has agreed to tickle the thirst of the VEVLYN'S PEN audience with a brief account of an upcoming Rosé cruise. Later, vacationing sommelier Tamara Fish and Yours Truly will follow up with a reportback on how the rosés flowed!

BY JOEL LEVIN

IS
pink the new white? Will Rosés from around the world supplant Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio at festive summer events?

For clues, get yourself to downtown Manhattan on 13 and 14 June (Friday and Saturday) for a tasting of some pink beauties. Step onto a glass-walled yacht at Pier 40 for what promises to be four pleasant hours on the Hudson River – with jaw-dropping views of the Manhattan skyline. With a glass in hand that can be constantly replenished with any of more than 80 wines from nearly 60 wineries.

All aboard the Hornblower Hybrid Yacht for an adventure in rosé." Photo from Hornblower Cruises & Events.

Close your eyes; picture the scene; take in the bouquets, the bouquets of France's Domaine d'Eole but also Ouled Thaleb from Morocco and Los Vascos from Chile. Several rosé Champagnes will be represented, too.

Organizer Pierrick Bouquet has named this inaugural weekend La Nuit en Rosé, although there are both daytime and evening sailings aboard a Hornblower Hybrid Yacht. Onboard, retailer Zachys Wine & Liquor will accept orders. Visit http://www.nuitrose.com/participating-wineries to view the list of wines.

While for some time, blush and pink wines were considered default choices for beginners and the unsophisticated, new growing and vinification techniques have generated higher quality rosés hallmarked by their complexity and versatility.

From Chile, comes Los Vascos.

Rosés can range from dry austerity to sweet richness. Some at the sweeter end of the spectrum do quite well at putting out the fire of dishes made with the hottest chilies, but so can the refreshing acidity and bone-dryness of others.

To accompany the wines will be oysters, small plates and desserts. During the first cruise, a panel of judges from the wine world – producers, sommeliers, consultants and journalists (disclosure: including this writer) – will select the best rosés from four continents. In addition, cruisegoers will vote informally for people's choice awards.

For "La Nuit en Rosé" Morocco suggests Ouled Thaleb.

In early June, my own tasting group paired three of La Nuit's rosés successfully and harmoniously with sautéed scallops, smoked pulled pork, spicy Chinese dumplings, almond cake and dark chocolate. In no instance did the wine lose out to the food or vice versa.

That's versatility.

Joel Levin is a New Jersey-based journalist who writes for numerous publications, including the New Jersey Newspaper Group.

Visit http://www.nuitrose.com and http://www.nuitrose.com/participating-wineries to learn more about La Nuit en Rosé, including ticket information.

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Hip, Hip, HooRosé for the Red, White and Blue

What lovely colors are these roses. Inside or outside of test tubes, they look ready for drinking. Photo from WikiCommons.

Head's Up: Welcome to a special edition of Grape: Wine Talk. Of course, it is not Wednesday. But with the Fourth of July coming on Monday, we at VEVLYN'S PEN surmised that winelovers would be making their major purchases starting from today. Resident sommelier Tamara F. is feeling very patriotic and wishes to recommend some libations – rosés – that are perfect for saluting such an occasion as Independence Day. Cheers!

BY TAMARA FISH

SO,
going to a Fourth of July barbecue and needing to make a fine impression? For the daring among you, show up with a rosé, a good blush wine. But please don't make it a White Zinfandel.

White Zinfandel. The two most insulting words one could ever levy at rosé wine.

True, White Zinfandel is a rosé, but it is only one of the many different types of rosé out there. Take everything that's said of White Zinfandel, and push it aside for a moment. (Throw out all those other images that go along with White Zinfandel, too: Mullet haircuts. “Miami Vice.” Laser-blue Armani suits. Shoulder pads. Yeesh! What a decade! Some things do not improve with age.) Not sure what a White Zin is? Hang on. Details to follow. Instead, let’s give those other perky little rosés a chance.

A Rosé is a Rosé is a Rosé
Long story short: Rosé is the result of tweaking the fermentation process of red wines. No more, no less. There are no rosé grapes. Rosés are never ever formed by blending red and white wines. (But since one should never say ‘never’, there is, of course, one very rare way of making a rosé from a blend of red and white wines, but it’s so rare it doesn’t count.)

Instead, take almost any red grape (Pinot Noir, Cinsault, Syrah, etc.), remove its pulpy red flesh after a few days in the barrel, ferment, and voilà: rosé. Another way to create a rosé is as a byproduct of enhancing the flavor of a red wine. Take the top off of a red wine barrel (before full fermentation), leaving a more concentrated darker juice at the bottom. Ferment it further, and voilà: rosé. The bottom becomes a fuller, richer red wine.

One element missing from this patriotic tableau is a bottle of rose. Photo by Billy Hathorn.

Basically, a rosé is a red wine stripped down. A naked red, so to speak, with a very fresh appeal. Imagine a wine that’s lighter than a red, both in taste and color, without the tannins but often with a tart kick. Imagine a wine that's noted for a strawberry-and-mineral aftertastes. (To brush up on minerality, see (“Sauvignon Blanc: Taming a Savage White,” http://www.bit.ly/ksnsXa). That’s the basic rosé flavor. Or, imagine a pink-colored white wine with backbone, often fruity but with a tang, a zest that may make the mouth pucker, but oh so sweetly.

Rosé: Too Sweet for Words?
Now since I’ve mentioned “sweetly,” please note: sweetness has nothing to do with rosé, generally speaking. But, a winemaker can go nuts and favor a high sugar content. That's what happened in the late 70’s in California. A winemaker pulled off the top of a Zinfandel production, set it aside, and learned that the yeast died out before doing what yeast usually does: converting the juice's sugar to alcohol. The resultant wine: a very sweet, low alcohol rosé made from Zinfandel grapes. And the White Zin was born. White Zin, the extra fruity, extra sweet, popsicle-like wine best drunk ice cold, if at all.
The world hasn’t been the same since. And OneRepublic’s song keeps echoing in my ear: California, “It’s too late to apologize./ I said it’s too late” ...

But then again, if the whole point of drinking White Zin is to take Jimmy Buffet's advice, get drunk and … well … whatever, then it'll do the trick. Or so I am told. Just make sure not to drive. And drink a lot of water.

If, however, you are well past your 20s, looking to enjoy a good drink and actually taste what’s going down, then consider other rosés.

Rosé: A Perfect Summertime Quaff
Long before the Californians invented White Zin, the French crafted rosés. Refreshingly tart and acidic, rosés compliment early summer fare: Soft cheeses, young (baby) lettuces, freshwater trout, and berries, berries, berries. And most have only the barest hint of sweetness, when compared with White Zin. (In fact, truth be told, higher quality White Zins currently produced in Cali now have significantly less sugar – and a touch more alcohol – than the White Zins of old.) Summon the courage. Try a blush wine. Grab the the other rosés. Prepare to be enchanted.

Behold: The cleverly cantilevered bottles of Crush Wine & Spirits. Photo from Crush Wine & Spirits.

Back to the Barbecue: No Apologies Needed.
Courage summoned, a bottle of rosé extends from your hand. The host smiles – painfully: “Oh no, the dreaded wine cooler of wines, the White Zin!” What to do?

Wink. And walk away. It's just a matter of time before all the other wine is gone, and the host must open what looks to be a mistake. But you know better. You've presented a daring fresh rosé. No apologies needed.

The wines to consider? Very easy, and very easy to get. Last month, Crush Wine & Spirtis (http://www.crushwineco.com/) presented an exclusive tasting of international rosés. Located in the middle of one of Manhattan’s busiest crosstown streets, two steps into Crush and the skyscrapers fall behind. Between barrels, a minimalist beautiful tasting room and more bottles of wine cleverly cantilevered than one could imagine, more than 20 different rosés flowed. Any one of these will impress, and many are available online:

Faillenc St. Marie Rosé des Glaciers 2010
Languedoc-Roussillon, France
$14
Needing a rosé that's two notches up from a White Zin? Faillenc St. Marie is it. Produced from Syrah, the wine is sweet without being cloying. If cheeses, nuts, fruits and salads will be served, this rosé will compliment them perfectly.

Texier Rosé “L'Anecdot'nic” 2009
(http://www.bowlerwine.com/site/wines/3637.html)
Rhone, France
$17
“L'Anecdot'nic” is a rock star: unconventional, breaking rules and producing art. Created by a self-taught winemaker using a Japanese model of biodynamic farming, Texier's rosé is both organic and impressive. Pop the screw-top and scent screams Pinot Noir (peppery nose), but what goes down is anything but: a rich, full roundness of flavors defying classifications. Not surprising, considering there are 26 varietals in this mix. That was no typo: 26! Need to make a major impression? This is it. Buy a case. Today.

Lauverjat Sancerre Rosé 2010
(http://www.thewinebuyer.com/sku48430.html)
Loire Valley, France
$19
Label of Lauverjat Sancerre Rose 2010. Photo from Lauverjat Sancerre.

Made from Pinot Noir grapes, Lauverjat initially smells like candy and flowers (floral nose), but don't be fooled. Anything except sweet, the wine bears the telltale rosé signature of strawberries, but an unexpected burst of strong lime flavor anchors the tartness. Pair this with anything from Mexican food to barbecue, and the wine will be a hit.

Mayr-Nusser Kretzer Rosé 2009
Alto Adige, Italy
$27
While most rosés tend toward the fruity, this one tends towards the savory. Made with Lagrein, a grape indigenous to southern Austria and northern Italy, Mayr-Nusserhof Kretzer reveals sage and spices together with a nice tart flavor (acidic). Perfect for a fancy barbecue or a fine dinner inside.

Rosé tips: serve chilled, and serve. Period. Rosés aren't meant to be stored, but enjoyed. Happy Fourth!

Next up: Parties with Pinot Grigio

Friday, November 5, 2010

Many Different Textures 'For Colored Girls'

In the closing scene of "For Colored Girls," above, Anika Noni Rose, Kerry Washington, Janet Jackson, Kimberly Elise, Phylicia Rashad, Loretta Devine, Tessa Thompson and Thandie Newton. Below in other scenes from the film, Kimberly Elise and Rhashad; Whoopi Goldberg and Tessa Thompson, as well as Kimberly Elise and Michael Ealy. Top photo by Patrick Harbron; all others by Quantrell Colbert.

NOT surprisingly, “For Colored Girls” is getting the same kind of criticism as “The Color Purple,” the film: It makes black men look bad. Only one (Hill Harper’s detective) is shown in a positive light.

It opens nationwide today.

Two thoughts. First, anyone with common sense and a thinking brain knows that there are many good black men out there; there are many bad black men out there, too. Alas, the bad boys garner the most notice, which flows into thought No. 2: don’t blame the messenger. Just as “The Color Purple” was faithful to Alice Walker’s book, so is this film - if not to the words - to the spirit of For Colored Girls Who Have Considered Suicide When the Rainbow Is Enuf, Ntozake Shange's classic choreopoem that addresses abortion, abandonment, rape and love. The characters are named for colors i.e. blue, red. etc. Writer/director/producer Tyler Perry gives the characters actual names - a number of liberties that he takes.

“For Colored Girls” will likely have a greater impact than another seminal film, “Waiting to Exhale.” The latter resonated with black women because it was the first time in myriad moons that they saw themselves on film as successful, complicated, nuanced individuals. Women of all ethnic groups could relate to the difficulty of relationships and the importance of having friends when He leaves/strays. It was a smash at the box office. A similar fate awaits “For Colored Girls,” though purists will be furious with TP for what they consider sacrilege.

“For Colored Girls” features 10 (including Macy Gray in a weird cameo) black actresses. Just about every black actress in Hollywood wanted a part in the film. It is, of course, a book. And has been adapted for both television and the stage. An Obie award and Tony nomination are among its accolades.

Try as I might I was unable to treat the film like any other. I couldn’t take it for granted, for this was not ordinary. I was witnessing something extraordinary, and it was appropriate that I had butterflies in my stomach and occasionally held my breath. Tears betrayed my poker face a few times. There’s the incredible Loretta Divine and TP’s sometimes muse, Kimberly Elise, who has one of the most interesting faces in Hollywood. And Janet. And Thandie. And Kerry. And on and on and on. Sistahs. SISTAHS. Is there any wonder that TP told the women of "The View" that he was intimidated. Who wouldn't be with all of this talent and a work of such heft and depth?

While I cannot relate to all of the characters - not that I must - I relate to a significant number. Phylicia Rashad as Gilda, a nosy neighbor who means well, reminds me of so many elderly women in the village neighborhood where I came of age in the South. The love shown in the comfort/scolding she gives to both KE’s Crystal/Brown and Thandie Newton’s Tangie/Orange is palpable. It’s as if she took the words right out of the mouth of Miss Becky (my grandfather’s first cousin) or any of those wise ol' girls in the neighborhood. In the neighborhood, too, were hardworking women like LD’s Juanita/Green, giving love to everybody and getting none herself. Janet Jackson’s uptight, elitist, resonates, too. All are loving and hurting and simply trying to make a way the best way they know how in a world that is often cold and cruel to them.

Some – white males, for example, who are responsible in the main (because they hold most of these jobs) for the film’s largely negative reviews just as they were with “Sex in the City 2” – may believe one is making a big to-do about nothing. I beg to differ. One is making a big to-do about something. It is rare to see such a large number of actresses of any ethnic group in featured roles on the big screen. The last I recall was “The Women” in 2008, and that was a remake of the 1939 classic starring Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford, Joan Fontaine, Rosalind Russell and others. Did 70 years really need to lapse between the two films? White males see themselves in myriad guises on TV and in film – every character type imaginable. Many can’t begin to understand when an under-represented group becomes excited about a film – or any entertainment – that features them, especially in a broad range of roles.

As captivating as it is, “For Colored Girls” is by no means a perfect film. TP does a competent job of wrapping the narrative around the poems, as well as threading/overlapping the various stories. The film, though, has disposable and plodding moments. An early scene in the dance class that introduces Nyla/Purple (Tessa Thompson) is contrived, and frankly, boring. Further, here is a spot where NS's prose is diluted to the point of blandness, not to mention that Purple is uttering the words of Yellow - TP inexplicably does this with other colors throughout the film. MG's boozey, back-alley abortionist is a caricature and cliche. Meanwhile, LD always gives good performance as she does here, however, sometimes her delivery is more suited to the stage. Occasionally, she delivers her dialogue so fast she is barely comprehensible. And the projection in her voice that works so well on stage comes across as screaming on screen.

Further, at moments in “For Colored Girls” seemingly nothing is happening. It’s as if TP thinks that just putting black women on the screen is sufficient. It is not enuf to just see ourselves, we need to see ourselves doing something interesting/engaging. Blacks and other non-Europeans/European-Americans are increasingly being cast in roles outside of the box. TP deserves some credit in this expansion. He is not, however, above, stooping to buffoonery. In “For Colored Girls,” it is manifested in histrionics that put soap operas to shame. One example is a scene that evokes the specter of Madear in which Micheal Ealy as KE’s war-scared husband, Beau Willie, comes utterly undone. Similarly, a heated argument between Alice/White (Whoopi Goldberg) and Tangie/Orange borders on the shrill, is hollow and is excruciatingly long. To TP’s credit, he spares the rape scene from any such violation. It is handled with great care and is one of the most powerful and affecting in the film.

Incidentally, Anika Noni Rose’s recitation of the “latent rapists'” poem is a tour de force. One feels to the core her sense of bewilderment, betrayal and shame; her hurt. One takes onto one's self her pain and sorrow because she owns these words. She is utterly convincing. Here is one of the few spots in the film where the poems are handled well. Kerry Washington's "pyramid" is another. Alas, LD’s ("somebody almost walked off wid alla my stuff") sounds more like a sermon. The acting is visible and offputting in MG’s abortionist’s, "i used to live in the world." It doesn’t help that she delivers it in an almost singsong voice. It’s been a spell since I read the book, but this one seems terribly and poorly embellished, or it is simply the delivery. Janet Jackson lost an opportunity to break out of Jo’s repressive shell in a scene that serves as a prelude to “sorry.” It is here that one should begin to see the cracks in her armor, but she maintains the same one-note robotic delivery she adopts throughout the film.

Still, "For Colored Girls" offers a welcome cross-section of character types, complete with complications and foibles. One doesn’t mind so much that Thandie Newton is a whore when Anike Noni Rose is a girl next door. Or Janet Jackson’s Wintour-esque magazine editor when she is counterbalanced by Kerry Washington's social worker ...

Indeed, the film has numerous flaws. It also has it moments, including the opening and closing. They are sublime and divine.

“For Colored Girls” is rated R for some disturbing violence, including a rape, sexual content and language.
 
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