The Book on Top 100 in Fashion Designers A-Z

Valerie Steele, Yeohlee and guest on Yeohlee's "Fashion Designers A-Z" page. Photos by Angela Pham.

12 Feb. 2013/NEW YORK – IF not during Fashion Week, there would have been few other fitting occasions to celebrate the release of "Fashion Designers A-Z."

It went down Tuesday night, Day 6 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, at TASCHEN Store New York (http://www.bit.ly/gYODIp) Two of the 100 featured designers, Jean Wu and Yeohlee, showed to be feted by the assembled.

The limited-edition (11K copies ), 654-page coffeetable tome is one that anyone and everyone who gives a hang about fashion may wish to have in his/her library, or atop her/his – coffeetable.

Akris, Diane von Furstenberg, Etro, Missoni, Prada and Stella McCartney provided cover for “Fashion Designers A-Z.”

Authored by venerable fashion writer Suzy Menkes and Director and Chief Curator of The Museum at FIT Valerie Steele (also the editor), "Fashion Designers A-Z" is a book that features the most important designers of the last century. It includes profiles, Web sites, caricatures of each designer and HD photos of their works from the permanent collection of The Museum at FIT. Text is written in several languages. The designers are listed alphabetically by first name. Just about every truly big name graces its pages.

That includes Coco, Gianni, Yves and Vivienne who is presenting a collection today at London Fashion Week (http://www.vevlynspen.com/2013/02/next-stop-on-fashion-express-london.html). Don’t fret; U.S- and U.S.-based designers aren’t left out. One can’t imagine the FIT would snub Ralph and Diane. In fact, Diane is one of six designers who was pressed into service to cover the books in a fabric from one of their collections. Miuccia went bananas by offering four different prints!

Deputy Director of The Museum at FIT Patricia Mears and Jean Wu have a happy moment.

No doubt, to keep dirt, dust and other particles, as well as nonbuying prying eyes at bay, "Fashion Designers A-Z" is encased in a plexiglass sleeve.

Visit http://www.taschen.com to learn more about Fashion Designers A-Z, including purchase information. The book is also available at Amazon (http://www.amazon.com)

Choice Words Before University Settlement Dinner

Could Chefs Andre Soltner (left) and Jacques Torres (right) be sharing tasty secrets about a very special dinner with Marjorie Gordon? Photos by Gregory Partanio/ManhattanSociety.com.

11 Feb. 2013/NEW YORK – CHEF André Soltner spiced up the evening and served up a few bons mots for the evening to come. He is a gentleman of a certain age and has earned the privilege to say just about anything he wishes.

“I didn’t know anything about it until I was told but I was happy to learn about it and help,” said he when asked about his association with University Settlement.

The nonprofit takes an impressive integrated, comprehensive approach to helping those in need. Initially after his remarks, there was a possibly uncomfortable silence in the room before folk realized that the truth is the truth and Chef Andre wasn’t doing any sugar-coating and broke out in very appropriate laughter.

So it was Monday night at an Upper East Side penthouse apartment for the warmup – an amuse-bouche, if you will – to the “University Settlement 9th Annual Fine Wine Dinner & Auction, an evening at Lutece with Chef Andre Soltner” on 16 April. Chef Andre is best and fondly known in this country for putting the now-shuttered Lutece on the culinary map. He was among several old lions/lionesses in the house.

A culinary pride: Andre Soltner, Sirio Maccioni and Alain Sailhac.

Also putting in an appearance at the runup to University Settlement’s largest fundraiser of the year were Sirio Maccioni, Alain Sailhac, Arlene Feltman Sailhac and Jacques Torres. While Chef Andre promised a classic French meal, to be preceded by a Champagne (Henroit) reception for the April affair, Chef Jacques promised chocolate for dessert.

Quite the wit, Mr. Chocolate asked the crowd during the week of Valentine’s Day what is the difference between men and chocolate. Many heads were being scratched before the chef revealed the answer: “Chocolate gives you pleasure every time.”

Well said, Chef.

Visit http://www.universitysettlement.org/ to learn more about University Settlement and the University Settlement 9th Annual Fine Wine Dinner & Auction, an Evening at Lutece with Chef Andre Soltner.

IOSSELLIANI Arrives Happily in the New World

W29 Showroom owner Susanne Rehnstrom joins Roberta Paolucci at the latter’s IOSSELLIANI NY-04-IOS housewarming party. Photos from IOSSELLIANI.

10 Feb. 2013/NEW YORK – ROBERTA Paolucci and Paolo Giacomelli continue their march across and around the world with their first freestanding store in the Americas.

The pair’s exquisite jewelry brand, IOSSELLIANI, celebrated the occasion with a soiree in a storefront space Sunday night on West 29th Street in a neighborhood that is trying to become known as NoMad (North of Madison Ave.). How cute! But not as cute as the pieces of vintage-based necklaces, bracelets and other geegaws – some with New York City themes – that will be lying about.

IOSSELLIANI NY-04-IOS draws a crowd through its doors.

Colleague Michael Spirito showed to help RP celebrate her cozy new joint – IOSSELLIANI NY-04-IOS – that was kept jumpin’ by disc jockey Andy Rourke and well-hydrated by Planeta wine.

A second may be in the works, word is.

Visit http://www.iosselliani.com/ to learn more about IOSSELLIANI NY-04-IOS and other IOSSELLIANI stores around the world. Rx

Day 5 NYFW: Retiring Collection From Retiring Lady?

For Spring 2011, Betsey Johnson goes burlesque and more demure. Betsey Johnson photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

HEAD’S UP: I repeat, it is officially a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. It should go without saying, but it shan’t – this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because a body can’t be everywhere. But, of course, depend on one’s best effort. Drum roll, please …

Day 5
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere):
Alexandre Herchcovitch, Alexandre Plokhov, Araks, Bebe, Betsey Johnson, Callula Lilibelle, Carlos Miele, Carolina Herrera, Chris Benz, Creatures of the Wind, Donna Karan New York, Edite Showroom designers, Jad Ghandour, Jenny Packman, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Norman Ambrose, Ohne Titel, Pamella Roland, Perry Ellis, Rachel Roy, Rachel Zoe, Rebecca Minkoff, Reem Acra, Thom Browne, Victoria by Victoria Beckham, Vlov_ Qingqing Wu, Yeohlee, Zero + Maria Cornejo


BOY, were tongues awagging after the Betsey Johnson show yesterday. Hardcore fans loved it. Some thought it boring, while others observed that she had the prettiest models.

A goodly number declared it the most accessible show BJ has staged in some time.
“Who wears those clothes,” one wag grunted, referring to the BJ of most seasons past. “I can see someone buying these.”

Amongst the scuttlebutt, too, is the sinister notion that BJ has gone totally commercial. “She has all of these tie-ins because she’s planning her retirement,” sniffed a wag who knows such things. “Those weren’t clothes, it was all lingerie!”

Actually, BJ does have a licensing deal with Intimates Carole Hochmann Design Group, and the company is listed as one of the licensees in her program. Further, Betsey Johnson LLC has more than a dozen licencing agreements. This comprises legwear, jewelry, swimwear, timepieces, outerwear and signature fragrance. All were on the runway or in the swag bag.


Regardless of the view one takes, Spring 2012 is one of BJ’s most subdued and approachable collections. Ironically, it takes a lot of inspiration from burlesque, yet it is quite chaste and often enough cleverly so. BJ put a tight reign on herself, to use a phrase. Did she do it to keep the cops from the door or to get customers into the door?

More shortly on the BJ saga and the rest of goings-on, including “best overall show,” from day 5 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2012. For now enjoy photos of some of the day’s offerings.

Yeohlee
Photos by Joe Kohen/Getty Images.

Perry Ellis
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Jenny Packham
Photos by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images.

Norman Ambrose
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Donna Karan New York
Photos by Mike Coppola/Getty Images.

Carolina Herrera
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Carlos Miele
Photos by Ileana Garcia Jacolow/ASJAIS Images.

On deck today, Day 6: Michael Angel, Tory Burch, J.Crew, Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, Zang Toi, Diesel Black Gold, Bibhu Mohapatra, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Argentine Designers, Improvd, Tibi, Narciso Rodriguez, Heatherette, Malan Breton

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and to see live and taped streams of the shows.

On a Grand Tour With a Girl at Heart

Betsey Johnson, left, has New York travel on her mind for Spring 2011. For a visit to the Seaport, at least two recommendations, below. Jaclyn Smith, bottom, celebrates a special anniversary with a certain discounter. Photos from Getty Images.

Just like last time, the plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Mind, this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because I can’t be everywhere. But depend on it, I’ll do my best. Drum roll, please …

Day 5
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): William Tempest, Jenny Packman, Carolina Herrera, Carlos Miele, Diesel Black Gold, Tracy Reese, Donna Karan New York, Monique Lhuillier, Yeohlee, Herchcovitch Alexandre, Betsey Johnson, Leifsdottir, Perry Ellis

MOST FUN SHOW
BETSEY JOHNSON - Is there any doubt that the incomparable, irrepressible, irresistible Betsey Johnson will not put on a good show? For Spring 2011, BJ goes on “Le Tour de Betsey.” It starts in Brooklyn, winds its way to The Met, then swings west to Central Park and into Betsey’s New York stores for appropriate traveling clothes. This is a grand tour of New York City, after all. To look one's best, some must-haves: bike shorts, belly-bearing cropped tights, bustiers, ball gowns, tutus, tiaras, prairie dresses w/hoop skirts, striped thigh-highs, garden party dresses to put Scarlett O’Hara to shame, cinched-waist black coat with batwing lapels, leather and lace, this and that.

Tricked out in a sailor's uniform (short or trousers), for instance, the tour winds southeast to the Seaport before journeying north to the final destination at Times Square. The lavendar, strapless mermaid gown w/tulle hem is just the thing to wear to see the ball drop on New Year’s Day. All along the tour music is blaring: “Ride Me Hard,” “Double Trouble,” “Cruisin’ for a Bruisin’, Babe in a Barrel, “Lacey Lynn,” “Officer,” “Gentleman” and so on.

As a finale, not only does BJ do a cartwheel, she cruises down the runway on a bike to where her daughter and granddaughter are seated to the beats of “Slow Rider.” The crowd erupts into applause and whistles. It rises up again when the models return to the runway waving b&w checkered flags and wearing yellow – a la a certain other tour – dresses bearing “Le Tour de Betsey” logo.

What a party!

BEHOLD, AN ANGEL
JACLYN SMITH – “No alcohol, no cigarettes, no drugs – clean living.”

From Jaclyn Smith’s mouth to your ears, ladies (and gentlemen). That is the secret to looking good at 62. That is the secret to looking 35 at 62. That is the secret to having the body of a 20-something at 62.

“I’m also a ballerina, and you never loose that need to be moving,” she gives me to know. “You are always taking two steps at a time.”

Ladies (and gentlemen), exercise is also a key to looking good at 62, and just about any age.

JS, my favorite of “Charlie’s Angels" – and I tell her so – is at the new/sleek/swank Gansevoort Park Hotel for Conde Nast’s reception honoring the 25th anniversary of her Kmart clothing line.

“It is a culmination of everything we have been doing for 25 years,” she says of the inspiration for the approximately dozen on-season pieces. “We went back and looked at what we’d done and pulled them together to make them look modern … “Isn’t this great,” she asks, gesturing to the (faux?) leather skirt and sleeveless top w/(faux?) silk blizzard top she’s wearing. “And it’s all under $100.”

From Jaclyn Smith's mouth to your ears.