Sunday, September 11, 2011

Day 3 NYFW: Better Days Ahead and Good Evenings

The Venexiana Spring 2012 collection of evening wear is large and lovely.

HEAD’S UP: I repeat, it is officially a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. It should go without saying, but it shan’t – this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because a body can’t be everywhere. But, of course, depend on one’s best effort. Drum roll, please …

Day 3
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere: ADAM, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, Band of Outsiders, Charlotte Ronson, Christian Siriano, Duro Olowu, Erin Fetherston, Eva Minge, Farah Angsana, Graeme Armour, Gregory Parkinson, Helmut Lang, Honor, Jill Stuart, Lacoste, Libertine, Lyn Devon, Monique Lhuillier, Pink Tartan, Rafael Cennamo, Son Jung Wan, Prabal Gurung, Ruffian, Venexiana, Vivienne Tam, VPL

IT seems to be on the same trajectory of a fine wine.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2012 is getting better with age. Day 3 is the best so far. As with Day 2, the committee is intensely discussing who merits “best overall show,” or say, “best interpretation” of a vision.” It is not difficult to imagine that Vivienne Tam will figure in the talks for her insightful meditations on a Chinese garden. One contender for the latter award is Alexander Wang who infused the NASCAR vibe into some cool street and club clothes. He is not the only one inspired by sports. There is Nicole Miller, a contender for Day 2 “best overall show” (http:/www./ for her exploration of wheels, while Altuzarra may have on the brain any number of sports – sky-diving, piloting, track&field; perhaps NASCAR, too. Leading indicators suggest that a trend is emerging.

While these are questions yet to be settled, there is consensus that an HONORABLE MENTION be awarded to Venexiana for evening wear. Somehow, designer Kati Stern makes it look fresh every season. She opened with a trio of gown from the red family: pink, fuchsia and Bordeaux. One is adorned with Swarovski crystals, two others have embroidery. All are gorgeous.

Vivienne Tam for Spring 2012 is evocative of a garden. Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

In a collection of 71 – yes 71 – gowns and dresses, KS commanded the attention with good fabrics, great colors and impeccable work with folds, beading and embroidery. A bronze tulle evening gown is embroidered into a spiderweb design with beading and Swarovski crystals. Any number of the pieces have such inventive detailing in a collection that has only a paucity of hiccups.

The Swarovski detail on the front of a red strapless gown suggests that the “overflow” is a baby bump. Likewise, a voluminous pleated ruffled gown wants shearing. Most at Venexiana, however, is smashing, in the spirit of the self-possessed bone/gold chiffon one-shoulder embroidered gown with a cut-out on the shoulder … More from Day 3 shortly.

On deck today, Day 4: Katya Leonovich, Lela Rose, Derek Lam, DKNY, Tracy Reese, L.A.M.B., Diane von Furstenberg, Jen Kao, Y-3, Guishem, Custo Barcelona, Tommy Hilfiger, Timo Weiland

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