Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Day 6 MBFW: A Lot to Be Happy About

HEAD’S UP: Can you believe it's Fashion Week already? That respite between September and February seems very short, especially since press registration notices started arriving during the crush of the holiday shopping season. In any case, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York has returned for the Fall 2012 edition. At VEVLYN'S PEN, we are going to do things slightly different this season. I still endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

The change will be most apparent in show coverage. Where before I was doing a sort of "best of," I will tweak that this season and focus on what truly inspires me. Why the change? Simply put, I have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires me, I will tell you so and tell you why. Let the games begin ...

Day 6
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Alexandre Herchcovitch, Ankar Sweden, Carmelita Couture, Badgley Mischka, Dennis Basso, Diesel Black Gold, Emerson, Fotini, Yazbeck Ghassan, Haus Alkire, J. Crew, Josie Natori, Malan Breton, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Naeem Khan, Narciso Rodriguez, Norisol Ferrari, Oscar de La Renta, Pamella Roland, Rodarte, Sophie Theallet, Tory Burch, Vera Wang

course one does not have to have a Wow! factor every day. That would exhaust the superlative very quickly would it, not?

A look from the Fall 2012 Ghassan Yazbeck collection. Photo courtesy of Ghassan Yazbeck.

There was no Wow! on yesterday, Day 6 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York. Yet it was a pretty good day. On runways, stairs and other presentation surfaces were collections, both engaging and captivating.

MOST INVENTIVE COLLECTIONGhassan Yazbeck makes his fashion week debut under the auspices of the iFashion Network emerging designer showcase. He offers a Fall 2012 collection that is bold, jaunty, feminine and utterly wearable. The recent Parsons grad, a middle-aged man who also has a chemical engineering degree from McGill University, is not content with a simple jacket, skirt, dress or shorts.

From the Naeem Khan fall 2012 collection. Photo by Frazer Harrison.

When you’ve already had one career and are embarking on a new one – your passion, no less – and you’re a clothing designer why create ordinary frocks? Exactly. A black jacket with a stand-up collar is separated into panels. The bottom half is also separated into overlapping panels in various lengths that resemble the blinds on sliding doors. It is not gimmicky. In fact, it’s clever and visually interesting as are most of the pieces in a small collection that favors red, black and red.

The lapels of a white jacket extend over the shoulder. A black blouse is held together by slim gold bars whose natural setting may be a bookcase or other piece furniture. The pleated flounce shorts in red are simply irresistible. A rather fetching combination is a black chiffon top with splits on either side that reveal the flounce asymmetrical teal shorts. While GY may not have the fabric budget of an Oscar de la Renta or Badgley Mischka, he makes up for it with craft. The results are frocks that look like upwards of a million bucks that were made in New York’s garment district on a few shoestrings. Necessity and passion are the mother of invention.

J. Crew for Fall 2012. Photo by Dario Cantatore.

OTHER MENTIONABLESJosie Natori looks once again to Asia for inspiration. “I am fascinated by Mongolian nomads, Kublai Khan, Marco Polo, and the traders on the Silk Road – and how their dramatic and colorful lives were shaped by this vast frontier," she said.

Elegant aptly describes the collection of wool and silks. Jackets and shirts have give but are not bulky and pair well with A-line skirts and pants. Folds on dresses are well situated, suggesting the formless frocks of the region's women. Fur comes not on hats or great coats but as scarves and cropped jackets. Silk is represented by wide belts with ties and a few Kimono-style blouses. An especially lovely silk blouse is the gray w/side sash and gold flower print.

For Fall 2012, Pamella Roland is younger, fresher and has more pep in her step. (See video above). More shortly on her, the aforementioned Oscar, Jad Ghandour, Malan Breton and others.

On Deck today, Day 7: Anna Sui, B Michael America, Elie Tahari, Jeremy Scott, J.Mendel, Michael Kors, Joanna Mastroianni, Levi's, Marchesa, Milly by Michelle Smith, Nanette Lepore, Nomia, Philosophy, Ports 1961, Proenza Schouler, Reed Krakoff, Rochambeau, Suzanne Rae, Vivienne Tam, Whitney Eve

Visit http:// to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos; visit to learn more about iFashion Network.

No comments :

Post a Comment

Creative Commons License
VEVLYN'S PEN: The Wright take on life by Vevlyn Wright is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License .
Based on a work at .
Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at .