Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Day 5 MBFW: Marc Jacobs Knows What He's About

HEAD’S UP: Can you believe it's Fashion Week already? That respite between September and February seems very short, especially since press registration notices started arriving during the crush of the holiday shopping season. In any case, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York has returned for the Fall 2012 edition. At VEVLYN'S PEN, we are going to do things slightly different this season. I still endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

The change will be most apparent in show coverage. Where before I was doing a sort of "best of," I will tweak that this season and focus on what truly inspires me. Why the change? Simply put, I have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires me, I will tell you so and tell you why. Let the games begin ...

Day 5
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): : 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alice + Olivia, Betsey Johnson, Bibhu Mohapatra, Carlos Miele, Carolina Herrera, Chris Benz, Donna Karan, Emilio Cavallini, Irina Shabayeva, Jenny Packham, Karen Walker, Leather Japan 2012, Marc Jacobs, Negarin, Preen, Prete & Bruno, Reem Acra, Theyskens' Theory, Titel1, Thom Browne, Viktor Luna, Yeohlee, Zang Toi, Zero+Maria Cornejo

Wow! came in more ways than one last night, just as Day 5 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York was shuttering. Thank you, Marc Jacobs.

BEST PRESENTATION FORMAT and MOST INTRIGUING SHOW – MJ is like God in this respect: His thoughts are not our thoughts. For instance, to show his Fall 2012 collection he chooses a fantasy set out of some unknown dystopian world; indeed, it is a place that is gray and moody, the last of its best gone to the dust. It is also magnificent. (See video above).

Meanwhile, as the first strains of “Who Will Buy?” are piping out of the sound system, the first model descends a staircase. At first, all one can see is the sloppy fur (mink? chinchilla?) hat that would do proud musketeers Athos, Porthos and Aramis. As more of her is revealed so the mystery intensifies. She is also wearing a heavy black/gold scarf, gold metallic dress, black cropped pants, black wool shrug and purple coat. On her feet, black socks and black/gold pilgrim shoes. The second look is similar. So is the third, as is the fourth and many others that appear along the winding runway.

For fall, MJ likes layers that simultaneously channel a bag lady, dowager fallen on hard times and a grunge goddess with a gargantuan budget. His muse is also a little hippy, that is, she is not built like a 13-year-old boy. All are got up in lush fabrics: brocade, paisley, velvet, silk, glorious prints. Where is MJ going with this? Only he knows. Cheeky fellow that he is, he politely asks in tempos from somber to sanguine via that lone tune playing throughout the show, “Who will buy?” (There must be someone who will buy.) This is an enigmatic collection layered in a conundrum. Bets are MJ devotees will be circumspect in their choices.

OTHER MENTIONABLES – Betsey Johnson is growing up. Off to the Oscars for Zang Toi. As elegant as ever is Carolina Herrera. Welcome to la grande mela Prete& Bruno. More shortly, meanwhile enjoy the pictures and the MJ video.

Jenny Packham & Zang Toi
Photos by Mike Coppola and Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Bibhu Mohapatra & Yeohlee
Photos by Frazer Harrison and Andy Kropa/Getty Images.

Betsey Johnson (work & play)
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

On Deck today, Day 6: Alexandre Herchcovitch, Ankar Sweden, Carmelita Couture, Badgley Mischka, Dennis Basso, Diesel Black Gold, Emerson, Fotini, Ghassan Yazbeck, Haus Alkire, J. Crew, Josie Natori, Malan Breton, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Naeem Khan, Narciso Rodriguez, Norisol Ferrari, Oscar de La Renta, Pamella Roland, Rodarte, Sophie Theallet, Tory Burch, Vera Wang

Visit http://http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

No comments :

Post a Comment

Creative Commons License
VEVLYN'S PEN: The Wright take on life by Vevlyn Wright is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License .
Based on a work at vevlynspen.com .
Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at vevlyn1@yahoo.com .