Presenting Some Beaujolais With Town Polish

Chef David Bouley presents Beaujolais, not necessarily nouveau. Photo by Ted Axelrod.

BY TAMARA FISH

DAVID Bouley and the Beaujolais: Sounds like a great indy band, right alongside Adam Ant, Siouxsie and the Banshees, and Ted Leo and the Pharmacists.

But the Bouley we’re bolero-ing with here is no other than the world renowned chef himself.

Every now and then DB throws a bash in his exquisite and expansive test kitchen, inviting a few friends and industry folk to savor something new. In this case, a fresh vision of the tried-and-true Beaujolais.

WHY?!?!?
I know. I know. I know. I know. I know. I can see folk right now scrunching up their noses. We suffer through that popsicle swill each and every November with people running around like drunken banshees chirping, Le Beaujolais nouveau est arrivé!, Le Beaujolais nouveau est arrivé! The last time such undeserved excitement ran rampant was the eve of a bad junior high school prom. Puh-leez! Why do we have to deal with Beaujolais in any wine column? Who extols the virtues of Budweiser in beer blogs?

Because chances are, the Beaujolais commonly swilled is the embarrassed cousin of the lovely wines we’ll discuss right now.

Don’t believe me? Try this: When is the last time you had a white Beaujolais? That’s right. A white Beaujolais? Intrigued? Or how about this: Have you ever savored an aged Beaujolais? An oxymoron? Not really. Of the three major classifications of Beaujolais, only one is to be enjoyed young. The other two age brilliantly.

A-ha! Caught you blinking. I saw it. Well, let’s get on with it, shall we? … More shortly.