Saturday, February 9, 2013

MBFW Day 2: Snow, Shows and Shoes All Went On




HEAD’S UP: That turnaround between September and February always seems short. One is in the middle of the Yuletide season when the notice arrives about registering for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York! Well, here we are at Fall 2013 and a small change in the VEVLYN’S PEN approach to covering Fashion Week. We will still put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits. We will also continue to endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Now, for the changes. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” as we on 7 Feb. (http://www.vevlynspen.com/2013/02/mbfw-day-1-snapshot-todd-snyders.html). We will also comment on particular pieces from a collection that capture our imagination. Finally, at VEVLYN’S PEN, coverage may take the form of photos with comments underneath, including whether the picture subject tends toward a trend. How’s that? OK, off we go!

Day 2
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): A DÉTACHER, BILLY REID, CARMEN MARC VALVO, CHADWICK BELL, CHARLOTTE RONSON, CUSHNIE ET OCHS, GREGORY PARKINSON, HELMUT LANG KATE SPADE NEW YORK, KATIE GALLAGHER, KELLY WEARSTLER, JASON WU, JENNI KAYNE, LYN DEVON, NICOLE MILLER, PIERRE BALMAIN, RAG & BONE, REBECCA MINKOFF, SALLY LAPOINTE, ST. JOHN, SUNO, TESS GIBERSON, THE ELDER STATESMAN, TOCCA, TOMMY HILFIGER, TRIBUNE STANDARD, YIGAL AZROUËL

IT
takes more than the threat of a blizzard to stop fashion in its six-inch heel tracks, as was proved yesterday when virtually all of the shows were on the runways and other venues as scheduled. Only one known cancellation: TU . BE by Sara Zanobi, which was postponed to 13 Feb.

The band (background) stole the show at Rebecca Minkoff. Photos from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

In other words, the show sites were packed, right up through Parkchoonmoo and Billy Reid at 9 p.m.

On Day 2 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, Noon by Noor made up for run-of-the mill designs with nice fabrics, which were stitched well enough ... The usual abundance of pretty, gorgeous, beautiful men at Nautica – who really cares what they are wearing? Well, perhaps a body would care what they are wearing.

In any case, it is what it is and it is Nautica, sure and steady – no rocking the boat ... The band, Wild Cub, is rocking out at Rebecca Minkoff. Alas, not in time with the beat is the designer’s well-intentioned effort to elevate grunge by getting it booked on a futuristic journey. Listen to a wag sitting next to Yours Truly: mall clothes (not an upscale one) ...

Killing it (or trying to) in Monika Chiang.

Meanwhile, Monika Chiang was given creative energy by a recurring dream in which she takes off into flight, this paired with a MoMa (http://www.moma.org) photo exhibit featuring birds. In one particular ensemble, the bird is not in flight. Perhaps, it was taken down by force. It is not happy. It is “dressed to kill,” for it is one angry creature ...

The girlfriend is dressed in her boyfriend’s clothes in Nicole Miller’s imagination; she commandeered his closet. So that explains the chic little high-waisted skirt with back pockets! Could the boyfriend thing also explain in part why NM showed in the smaller Studio tent instead of the Stage or Theater. Could this be a metaphor for the boyfriend’s smaller closet? Or is it the economy, stupid? ...

The man makes the Nautica clothes.

Mysteries abound, including the mysterious chick tricked out in a baroque/punk Carmen Marc Valvo cocktail dress. What would that look like? Let’s see: a black ducal face stain with square patent leather tile embroidered. Could also be a leather cut cocktail dress. And it may not even be a cocktail dress as evidenced by the striped lace bodice gown with patent leather embroidery. And kindly remember the simple ivory silk and wool gown with an alligator inset detail that just takes it to another level. (See video of show above.)

“I do evening wear. I have to do me,” CMV asserted a couple days before at the H.H. Brown Børn Handbag collection launch. The designer’s first shoe line in about a decade was given a very prominent display space in that venue. (More on the shoes later). “I gotta be me,” the designer added, emphasizing this personal directive in the common vernacular.

Fabrics can make a difference as they do in the Noon by Noor Fall 2013 collection.

As he has proved season after season, CMV knows his way around evening wear. The tiles, embroidery, striped lace, leather squares and touches of alligator enticingly combine to give the garments the texture and depth that would evoke baroqueness. Of course, the nod to punk is the leather and the black. But CMV’s punk has grown a little more sophisticated but not so sophisticated that she will shed her leather. Blondie still looks cool and edgy. And … elegant.

On Deck today, Day 3: ALEXANDER WANG, ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH, ALON LIVNE, ALTUZARRA, CALLA, CHLOË SEVIGNY FOR O.C., CHRISTIAN SIRIANO, HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA, JEN KAO, JILL STUART, JONATHAN SIMKHAI, KATYA LEONOVICH, LACOSTE, LIBERTINE, LOUISE GOLDIN, MARA HOFFMAN, MARISSA WEBB, MONCLER GRENOBLE, MONIQUE LHUILLIER, OSTWALD HELGASON, PRABAL GURUNG, RAFAEL CENNAMO, RAIF ADELBERG, REBECCA TAYLOR, ROBERT GELLER, RODEBJER, RUFFIAN, SECOND/LAYER, SON JUNG WAN, TIBI, VENEXIANA, VPL

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

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