Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Pret a Porter Day 1: Elevating Knits to an Artform?

Alice Le Moine is a nitpicker. Photo by Aurélie Gelibert

WHERE in the wonderland of knits will Alice Le Moine go for Fall 2013-14?

That is the question and it will be answered at 2 p.m. Paris time (8 a.m. at New York) when the Bordeaux native presents her third official collection at the Paris Ready to Wear Fall 2013-14 shows aka Mode à Paris Prêt à porter. The festivities got started today with Moon Young Hee, followed by Steffie Christiaens and Ground Zero. Lie Sang Bong closes out the "week" on 6 March.

Last year, the former architect collaborated with dancer Jenny Sandler in her debut at Paris under the Le Moine Tricote label. The duo explored the possibilities of knits as tailored clothing and other objects. Perhaps a bird or a butterfly, as interpreted by JS' movements.

Dancer Jenny Sandler is the puppeteer and the Le Moine Tricote Fall 2012-13 collection is the puppet. Photo by Ramon Palacios-Pelletier.

In effect, the collection, which relied in part on mottled yarns and jacquards for its storyboard, became impressionist art. For instance, is the dress with an asymmetrical flounce skirt a rose or cupcake? It is up to each individual viewer to interpret the image.

Quite clever really, though not every piece presented such a whimsical challenge. Often enough the eye was seeing a simple knit frock – albeit well-constructed by hand – that no amount of movement manipulation was going to transform. Yet the young designer, who created knit pieces for Rick Owens en route to setting out on her own, is to be commended for taking a stepchild of a “fabric” and attempting to put it on par with wool and tweed. After all, real tailored clothes are not knitted. Or are they?

Will be interesting to see on what adventures ALM takes knit during her latest go-round at Paris.

Visit http://www.modeaparis.com/fr/defiles/calendriers/Pret-a-porter to learn more about the Paris Ready to Wear shows, including show information and videos. Rx

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