Pret a Porter Day 1: Elevating Knits to an Artform?

Alice Le Moine is a nitpicker. Photo by Aurélie Gelibert

WHERE in the wonderland of knits will Alice Le Moine go for Fall 2013-14?

That is the question and it will be answered at 2 p.m. Paris time (8 a.m. at New York) when the Bordeaux native presents her third official collection at the Paris Ready to Wear Fall 2013-14 shows aka Mode à Paris Prêt à porter. The festivities got started today with Moon Young Hee, followed by Steffie Christiaens and Ground Zero. Lie Sang Bong closes out the "week" on 6 March.

Last year, the former architect collaborated with dancer Jenny Sandler in her debut at Paris under the Le Moine Tricote label. The duo explored the possibilities of knits as tailored clothing and other objects. Perhaps a bird or a butterfly, as interpreted by JS' movements.

Dancer Jenny Sandler is the puppeteer and the Le Moine Tricote Fall 2012-13 collection is the puppet. Photo by Ramon Palacios-Pelletier.

In effect, the collection, which relied in part on mottled yarns and jacquards for its storyboard, became impressionist art. For instance, is the dress with an asymmetrical flounce skirt a rose or cupcake? It is up to each individual viewer to interpret the image.

Quite clever really, though not every piece presented such a whimsical challenge. Often enough the eye was seeing a simple knit frock – albeit well-constructed by hand – that no amount of movement manipulation was going to transform. Yet the young designer, who created knit pieces for Rick Owens en route to setting out on her own, is to be commended for taking a stepchild of a “fabric” and attempting to put it on par with wool and tweed. After all, real tailored clothes are not knitted. Or are they?

Will be interesting to see on what adventures ALM takes knit during her latest go-round at Paris.

Visit http://www.modeaparis.com/fr/defiles/calendriers/Pret-a-porter to learn more about the Paris Ready to Wear shows, including show information and videos. Rx

Jakarta Fashion Week 2013 Has Eye on ... WORLD

WITH a theme of “Indonesia Today, The World Tomorrow,” Jakarta Fashion Week 2013 jumped off today at 8 p.m., Jakarta time (8 a.m. in New York) with shows from top Indonesian designer Sebastian Gunawan and Lie Sang Bong.

South Korean-born, Paris-based LSB closed out Paris and showed in New York as part of the group show “Concept Korea.” For Spring 2013, the designer is inspired by butterflies. (See video above from Paris show.)

Sebastian Gunawan. Photos by Irvan Arryawan/Feminagroup.

Beginning its fifth year, Jakarta Fashion Week 2013 bills itself as Southeast Asia’s most influential fashion event. It is a platform for the Indonesian fashion industry to introduce itself to the global market. Over the next nine days – through Monday, 12 Nov. – numerous fashion shows and events will be staged with the intent of doing just that.

Sebastian Gunawan.

This being fashion, it attracts exhibitors from far and wide, both familiar and not-so familiar. Familiar brands showing during the week include Ted Baker (Monday at 4 p.m.), Standard Denim (Wednesday at 4 p.m.) and m)phosis (Friday at 4 p.m.). Also showing is Ardistia New York (Thursday at 8:30 p.m.), an up-and-coming Gotham-based label designed by Indonesian-born Ardistia Dwiasri. (All times are Jakarta time.)

Lie Sang Bong.

Like any proper tradeshow in the rag business, Jakarta Fashion Week 2013 is not lacking for sponsors. Samsung, Mazda, L’Oreal and The Body Shop are among marquee names.

A highlight of Jakarta Fashion Week 2013 is the group show under the umbrella of Dewi Fashion Knights (DFK). This year’s theme is “The Next Chapter.”

Lie Sang Bong.

Featured DFK designers include Sapto Djokokartiko. He has made a name for himself by creating captivating frocks for women of all ages using lace, embroidery and beading. This year, he’s furthering his narrative by introducing technological elements, a source that fellow DFK designer Ghea Panggabean accesses to continue her meditation on Indonesian culture.

Closing out Jakarta Fashion Week 2013 is IKAT Indonesia by Didiet Maulana.
Visit http://www.jakartafashionweek.co.id/en/ to learn more about Jakarta Fashion Week 2013.