HEADS UP: It's early September and that means one important thing in the ragtrade: fashion trade shows. To that end, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2015. As we at VEVLYN'S PEN endeavor to bring some interesting fashion news to our dear readers, we don't mind changing with the seasons. One small tweak this season, each day one (perhaps two) designers/labels will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy. Thank you for your support!
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): BIG PARK, CREATURES OF THE WIND, DESIGUAL, DUCKIE BROWN, GIGI BURRIS, HONOR, JAY GODFREY, MARISSA WEBB, NICHOLAS K, MENS COLLECTIVE, PERRY ELLIS, SIMON MILLER, SUPIMA, TADASHI SHOJI, ULLA JOHNSON, YUNA YANG
IT'S summertime and the living is easy. That's the point at Desigual whose Spring-Summer 2015 collection is inspired by flora and fauna.
The Spanish label threw in with très exuberant French designer Christian Lacroix to spawn the “Happy casual” collection.
A body does need a reason to be happy on Day 1 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York. Alas, the New World Order that came to power in February has not yet been usurped, though the opposition is making its displeasure known by boycotting the tents at the often-despised Lincoln Center. Who is this opposition? Look at the show schedule for clues.
In this charged environment, Desigual admonishes us to not worry; be happy, for the world is still a good place, a place where there still exists warmth, color and vibrancy.
Even when colors are oddly a bit muted in this collection, such as in the belted dress of gray and salmon that looks like a sister from another mister, they inspire us toward fun, giving us a reason to smile, fueling our optimism, forcing us to embrace the bright side.
Desigual SS 2015 is a massive offering of utterly wearable dresses, skirts, a random jacket and pants, done up in the most fanciful way. Though these frocks are retail friendly, they are not the type that can be found any and everywhere.
For good reason – prints are intimidating for a lot of folk. The beauty, excitement and anticipation of watching a show like Desigual or Custo Barcelona is to see in which direction the prints will go.
It takes some skill to produce prints season after season and somehow keep them fresh. Yet, the aforementioned labels seem to have mastered it. At Desigual, the eye does not tire of watching the next outfit, not just because the models are smiling, toting cute signs and being ever so playful to varying degrees of success and sincerity.
The outfits are engaging, inviting the viewer to take a closer look, teasing, making a body wonder how did they do that. Indeed, how do they do that? How do they take that v-neck dress and make it over in b&w&b stripe, b&b stripe, b&w polka dot, seafoam green floral, salmon floral, white floral and so on?
The myriad print tableau is a leitmotif at Desigual, but under CL's influence it seems ramped up a notch. It is dizzying and it works. Who would think to do this themselves? Virtually no one. These clothes make you smile, forcing you to really believe in the notion of happiness in spite of the zeitgeist of the moment.
For a moment, or around 12 minutes, one forgets about the New World Order and its nonsense.
SNAPSHOT: Nicholas K
Nicholas K Spring-Summer 2015. Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
Nicholas K is for women only for SS 2015. And the Nicholas K woman, inspired by an intrepid sister-friend, is going exploring. Her adventure takes her to the desert for firsthand knowledge of that nomadic lifestyle. For her journey, she's wearing loose-fitting mostly deconstructed jackets, dresses and pants made from breathable fabrics in mainly black, taupe and white. Her getups hang insouciantly about her, resulting in laidback and elegant silhouettes. These are many-layered affairs appropriate for desert conditions, which can swing ruthlessly from frigid to sweltering. During windy periods when the sands can kick up a furious storm, she can easily pull a hood over her head. Under the bright sun, her eyes are saved from squinting by shades with proper UV protection. Happy trails.
On Deck today, Day 2: A MOI, CARMEN MARC VALVO, CADET, KATE SPADE NEW YORK, LYN DEVON, MARK AND ESTEL, MONIQUE LHUILLER, NICOLE MILLER, NONOO, SAUNDER, TANYA TAYLOR, TESS GIBERSON, WES GORDON
Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.