Showing posts with label New York Fashion Week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York Fashion Week. Show all posts

Thursday, September 15, 2016

From NYFW SPRING 2017 Day 7: Seen From the Proper Perspective, Georgine Is Rather Special ... At Adrienne Landau, Be Prepared to Be Colorfully Empowered ... Xuly Bet Designer Lamine Badian Kouyate Owns the Runway Twice Over


BY VW

Some of the players from Day 7: Xuly Bet, Calvin Luo, Naeem Khan, Bibhu Mohapatra, Georgine, Anna Sui, Marchesa, Art Hearts Fashion, RISD Apparel, Runa Ray, Michael Kors, Delpozo, Kimora Lee Simmons, Kuho, Assembly New York & Raquel Allegra, LaQuan Smith, Addition ELLE Presents Holiday 2016 RTW +Ashley Graham Lingerie Fashion Show, Derek Lam, Adrienne Landau, Flagpole, Theory, Anastasiia Ivanova, Alison Lou, Elizabeth Kennedy


From the Spring 2017 Georgine collection. Photos by VW.

PERSPECTIVE. It is important, no?

Of course, it is. Case in point is the Georgine Spring 2017 collection. Viewed from the second row about 10 feet from the mouth of the runway with a poor sightline in the form of the frontrow, it looks like a competent affair. Not so special, not so ordinary. Competent.

Viewed from the vantage point of the photographer's pit, however, it is a rather splendid body of work. At the Georgine afterparty last night at Fig & Olive (Meatpacking District location), where the joint was jumpin', the show played in a continuous loop. From the vantage point of the photographer's pit.

One can properly appreciate the silver T-shirt dress, baby doll dress with lace at the hem and others in some sort of silk-satin that is reminiscent of a waterfall. Lots of movement but controlled movement. The fabric is either cut or sewn in a way that commands it to keep its form instead of gesticulating. Looks easy, not easy.

The collection is inspired by the style of designer Georgine Ratelband's mother. The contents of her closet and the occasion(s) on which she wore a trenchcoat, sequinned dress, lace dress and so on.

In homage to this occasion dressing, each outfit corresponds to an area or street in New York City where it is suggested it be worn.

The series of elegant plaid, satiny-sequinny gowns, for instance, are for Bond Street, Chinatown and Houston Street.

For an outing in Alphabet City, the black gown with a beautiful spider web pattern done in sequins. Also cleverly replicated on a pinstipe skirt and pinstripe dress.

Watching the show on the screen with the mother of Chris Roshia, GR's design partner, offers yet another perspective. "That dress is very fragile," she says of the black sleeveless gown with a gorgeous silver hour-glass pattern down the front and zipper-length on the back.

That pattern is actually a series of safety pins. They'll keep, mom. Ditto for those on the pink copped top.

She appreciates the fact that the red dress with netting cutout at the waist barely skims the body. It is suspended just so, away from the body, a small gravity-defying feat. Mother's favorite outfit: the lace turtleneck, sleeveless fire-engine red dress. It's a showstopper.

Many of the outfits are anchored by fishnet socks and Dr. Martens. Chic, indeed the little black lace, sequinned T-shirt dress, the short sleeve trenchcoat/print dress ensemble, the silver skirt and aforesaid pink cropped top and so on.

"I think it's the best collection we've done," CR says later when the two of us Monday-morning quarterback the show.

ADRIENNE LANDAU


"Through this collection, we wanted to present a fun, bright, and colorful future. These clothes were meant for anyone and meant to empower everyone," Adrienne Landau says in the run of show (show program) about her Spring 2017 collection, a meditation on "diversity" and "equality."

Continues AL: "Unity through diversity is the key message for this season."

One would be hardpressed not to feel empowered in any of this body armor. Close your eyes and point. Good choice, the marabou feather coat in mint, multi-colored applique tulle mini dress and applique tulle flared pant.

Fur. Feathers. Sequins. Lemon-yellow, orange-orange. Metaphors for identity and equality: black, white, pink and blue ... Formidable.

XULY BET


SPORTSWEAR, after-5, evening wear, headwraps, sunglasses and sandals in bodacious African prints. Obnoxious, I-dare-you-to-pair-me-this-way print combinations ...

Xuly Bet designer Lamine Badian Kouyaté turns the runway on its ear. Fun. Festive. Fantastic.

On deck today, Last Day: CFDA Incubator, Marc Jacobs, Kuho, Tim Coppens and Under Armour Present UAS Collection 01, Kristin Cavallari Emerald DUV Jewelry + Chinese Laundry Fashion Presentation, Alex Vinash, Tahor Group #TLVRunwayNYC

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week. Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style 360
http://www.style360nyfw.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/

FTL Moda
http://www.ftlshows.com

Fashion Gallery
http://www.fgnyfw.com

Wednesday, September 14, 2016

From NYFW Spring 2017 Day 6: It's Zang Toi, of Course There Are Glories to Behold (and It's in the Bag); What's Not to Like at Chiara Boni La Petite Robe; Miguel Vieira Is an Established Do-Gooder.



From the Zang Toi Spring 2017 collection. Photos by Maria C. Boyes.

BY MARIA C. BOYES

ZANG Toi’s
Spring 2017 colleciton is a stroll through Monet's gardens at Giverny (France), emanating lilac hues and wistful embellishments that are like a breath of fresh air.

Utilizing romantic florals and ladylike silhouettes, ZT knows how to dress a woman. His clean, classic lines are enriched with sumptuous silks and cashmere knits making this collection one that will be talked about for years to come.

For day, he gives a twist on the trench coat, sometimes creating shortened sleeves or loosening the shape to kimono-like volume, all in black Loro Piana weather silk.

View in spring of the flower garden, Clos Normand, in front of Monet's house in Giverny, France. Photo by Ariane Caudelier courtesy of Giverny.org.

He chooses, on other occasions, to take the sleeves off all together and pair it, belted, with a high-waisted lean pant. For evening, he lengthens it to the floor in black silk satin opened to reveal a violet floral lining.

Dresses are where the color comes alive, for both day and night. Violet and lilac are often paired in color-block designs, while shoulders and waists are encrusted with beads, gemstones and embroidery. Sculpted jackets and cardigans are bordered with silk pansies or flowing wisteria.

Particularly dramatic is a knit sheath dress in a deep violet emblazoned with hand-encrusted gemstones on cap sleeves and replicated on a choker.

ZT’s signature ballgowns are a fantasy come to life. In addition to the floor-length trench gowns, the designer offers myriad wisteria-embellished ensembles, both embroidered and in prints.

The strapless lilac gown in silk gazaar with a violet border at the hem is a singular beauty. Topping it is an abbreviated hand-loomed cardigan in silk cashmere embroidered with cascading wisteria on the shoulders.

Truly, ZT Spring 2017 is a work of art (and so are the Papyrus greeting cards in the giftbag).

CHIARA BONI LE PETITE ROBE



MIGUEL VIEIRA



On deck today, Day 7: Xuly Bet, Calvin Luo, Naeem Khan, Bibhu Mohapatra, Georgine, Anna Sui, Marchesa, Art Hearts Fashion, RISD Apparel, Runa Ray, Michael Kors, Delpozo, Kimora Lee Simmons, Kuho, Assembly New York & Raquel Allegra, LaQuan Smith, Addition ELLE Presents Holiday 2016 RTW +Ashley Graham Lingerie Fashion Show, Derek Lam, Adrienne Landau, Flagpole, Theory, Anastasiia Ivanova, Alison Lou, Elizabeth Kennedy

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week. Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style 360
http://www.style360nyfw.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/

FTL Moda
http://www.ftlshows.com

Fashion Gallery
http://www.fgnyfw.com

Thursday, September 8, 2016

NYFW: Riffing About Spring 2017 Trends, Which Leads to Pondering Tales of Maria's Bag and the Sustainability Informing Nicholas K. Elsewhere, the Notion of Jeans for Refugees Is a Capital Idea! Finally, Salivating Over Zang Toi on (Papyrus) Paper.

Top model Coco Mitchell with the Domina Mini satchel from the Spring 2017 Maria's Bag collection. Photo from BFA.

BY VW

“WHAT
are the trends for Spring 2017?,” a woman at this reporter’s gym asked a few days ago, speaking of New York Fashion Week?

It took a few beats for my mind to make the necessary pivot and inform her that NYFW had not yet started. But here we are today, on Day 1 of NYFW, which now encompasses New York Fashion Week: The Shows, Style Fashion Week, FTL Moda, Style 360 and several other outfits showcasing mainly frocks in a cooperative style.

Does one still think of trends? Of course, one supposes, though we currently exist in a cultural moment of laissez faire, at least in the West, particularly in the United States.

In any case, by Day 3, trends may begin to emerge, particularly around color and accents. My personal focus tends toward the craft, craftiness, wiliness and wizardy (or lack thereof) of each collection, especially if it is tied to a point of reference.

These jeans are on the auction block. Photo from Jeans for Refugees website.

A few days ago Maria’s Bag showed its SS2017 collection, a sophomore effort. It is a fetching handbag collection created by model and former Miss Guatemala, Alida Boer. There was no particular inspiration or trend other than the use of the intricate Guatemalen huipil fabric on every handbag and the few ponchos, the work of Guatemalan women AB seeks to empower.

Like a Persian rug, each print tells a story steeped in Mayan culture and folklore. The overall effect is rather attractive, particularly the green/blue/purple mosaic, if a tad overdone and costumey on occasion.

At Nicholas K,which by tradition the last few years has opened NYFW: The Shows, the siblings Kunz find inspiration from a protected desert region in Jordan. The collection will include garments made from sustainable materials.

All things considered, taupe and white can be depended upon; dark colors may may tend toward khaki or iterations of red. Layers will abound and fluidity is a certainty.

Jeans for Refugees (also today) makes its bow in New York after Berlin. The trend is to make the world a better place. On the catwalk, jeans donated by 100 celebrities – and painted by multimedia artist Johny Dar – from the worlds of fashion, film, musi and art. Among the donors are Benicio del Toro, Elle McPherson, Elton John, Lars von Trier, Pedro Almodovar, Twiggy and Usher.

The jeans are being auctioned online during the 100-day period from 22 July to 30 October. All one hundred pairs will be exhibited 24-30 Oct. at London's Saatchi Gallery. Proceeds will go to the International Rescue Committee, which helps refugees around the world (http://www.catawiki.com/jeansforrefugees; http://www.rescue.org) ...

From the Zang Toi Collection at Papyrus. Photo from Papyrus website.

One of the most anticipated shows each fashion week is that of Zang Toi, owing to the mastery of this shy craftsman and the breathtaking manifestations of his themes. It is customary for applause to erupt throughout his shows. Alas, anticipation must fester until Tuesday, 13 Sept. or Day 6.

Interestingly, the most burning question concerning Spring 2017 is not what Toi will show. The collection is themed “Glorious Giverny Garden” (as in Monet's).

What inquiring minds want to know is whether the coveted ZT gift bag will contain any Zang Toi-themed Papyrus product. A couple weeks or so ago, the design house became the first (along with Lela Rose) to collaborate with a greeting card company to create a custom collection based on runway looks.

A tunic from the Maria's Bag Spring 2017 collection. Photo from BFA.

“It was love at first sight with Team Papyrus,” the Malaysian designer said. “The chemistry was so strong during our first meeting, I knew we would have a lot of fun creating a fabulous collection of greeting cards that both Papyrus and House of Toi fans will adore.”

ZT has produced 24 cards and two boxed notes. They feature such accents as beading, textured fabrics and feathers. The collection has been available online, but this week will also be available at all New York City Papyrus stores and select retailers. (http://www.papyrusonline.com/collection/zang-toi
)

Asked point blank whether any Papyrus will be in the bag, ZT’s cheeky spokesman kept it cryptic: “We will find out on Sept 13th,:).”

Ah, the mystery of fashion.
From the Zang Toi Collection at Papyrus. Photo from Papyrus website.



On deck today, Day 1: Malan Breton, K. Rashae, Nikki Lund, Dextrose, Eddie Eddie by Billy Ton, Nicholas K, Noon by Noor, Charles Youssef, Ohlin/D,Brock Collection, Nora Gardner, Creatures of the Wind, Timon Weiland, Hellessy, Marissa Webb, Creatures of Comfort, Supima Ninth Annual Design Competition, Jeffrey Taylor, Jeans for Refugees, Josie Natori, Ulla Johnson, Adam Selman, Thakoon, Phelan, Yuna Yang, TELFAR, Archana Kochhar, LO Live OnTop, Harx4, Marlene H Couture, Responsive Textiles, Sonja Tafelmeier, Shock and Awww, Chasa IDT, Dress Haute, Fllumae, LeVico, Vaishali

Visit us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week. Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style 360
http://www.style360nyfw.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/

FTL Moda
http://www.ftlshows.com

Fashion Gallery
http://www.fgnyfw.com

Friday, February 20, 2015

@MB/NYFW Last Day: Pride of Dorin Negrau; Back to Drawingboard for Ly Qui Khanh; F&F When Tokyo Runway Meets New York

From the Fall-Winter 2015 Dorin Negrau collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Last Day: Arts Hearts Fashion, Blue Les Copains, Calvin Klein, Cynthia Vincent, Dorin Negrau, Ikumi, J. Mendel, Marc Jacobs, Peter Som, Ralph Lauren, Sergio Davila, Sherri Hill, Tokyo Runway Meets New York

NINE observations about the Dorin Negrau Fall-Winter 2015 show:

1NE. The designer uses a combination of models and real-looking women. Perhaps, too, they are all models who look like real women. Further, none may be models;

2WO. It appears that fall-winter 2015 is made up almost exclusively of styles popular in his homeland of Romania;

3HREE. The women (models) are of various heights and variations of slim, though a couple tend toward normal;

4OUR. It is a collection, incorporating brilliant colors like turquoise, orange and fire-engine red;

5IVE. The models appear to be in age anywhere from late 20s to late 40s;

6IX. The beautifully intricate multi-colored bustiers want a snugger fit. All of this moving about is making them (and this viewer) dizzy;

7EVEN. One ensemble, a long navy dress with oversized collar and white vest, is the ugly duckling. Its presence is mystifying. One could find such a one in the clearance bin of a designer discount store;

8IGHT. Several beautiful ensembles, including the one featuring a white jacket, red print sash;

9INE. The more the eyes see of this collection, the more they imagine they are viewing a procession at a Romania Day parade. As a whole, this is too costumey.

NEW YORK LIFE, Ly Qui Khanh

From the Ly Qui Khanh Fall-Winter 2015 collection.

SHE takes one tentative step forward, moving very cautiously. One uneasy step at a time until she moves to the right side of the runway. There's a problem with her outfit.

Back on course for perhaps a step, then over to the right side of the runway for more troubleshooting.

It is fitting that on the last day New York Fashion Week of the last season of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week's fractious stay at Lincoln Center there should be some drama, trauma and spectacle.

And so it is – quite by accident – courtesy of Ly Qui Khanh, showing under the New York Life umbrella.

It is obvious that the designer's vision exceeded his reach. The lovely pink and white ballgown – constructed with a lot of tenderness and love, but too little care – was too long and possessed of too many layers for the model to both walk and keep her feet. It is not the only wonderful creation he sends out whose construction may be hazardous to the health of the wearer.

Pandemonium ensues – laughter, snickers, guffaws, catcalls, horror and mortification. No well-meaning person enjoys such a sight. It's akin to watching a figureskater fall or alpine skier crash and burn.

Mercifully, LQK extricates his model and creation from this awful scene. (See the final seconds of the exit in the video).

TOKYO RUNWAY MEETS NEW YORK, mastermind feat for A-GIRL'S

From the Fall-Winter 2015 collection of mastermind feat for A-GIRL'S.

ANOTHER group show debuting at Fashion Week New York, more evidence that such economy-driven coops are a cottage industry on fashion week calendars around the world. Fun and fab for two out of the seven collections – a showcase for Japanese design talents to the world beyond its borders – that win the coin toss for a mention.

mastermind feat for A-GIRL'S holds down the fun portion with frocks for the prep school set. Supposedly, FW15 is inspired by the hope that peace will prevail on earth. The connection is murky unless it's suggested in the notion that there is nothing offensive here (or particularly creative).

TOKYO RUNWAY MEETS NEW YORK, Dresscamp

From the Fall-Winter 2015 Dresscamp collection.

DRESSCAMP is inspired by Vanitas. However, the resulting collection – the fabulous side of the Tokyo Runway Meets New York equation – channels the '60s, the 1960s. Two cases in point: the Holly Golightly shift and Jackie-Oesque jackets with shawl collar and three-quarter length sleeves. Deference to today is evident in some fabrics such as leather favored for evening gloves.

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Thursday, February 19, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 7: Get Us More Francesca Liberatore Types at Fashion Week New York

From the Francesca Liberatore Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photos from Francesca Liberatore.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 7: Alexis Bittar, Anna Sui, Bibhu Mohapatra, B Michael, Boss Womenswear, Clover Canyon, Delpozo, Eidos, Elizabeth and James, Erin Fetherston, Francesca Liberatore, Iijin, Greg Lauren, Jeremy Scott, Laquan Smith, Leanne Marshall, Lie Sangbong, Malan Breton, Marchesa, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Newbark, Pink Sheep Heiress, Proenza Schouler, Rolando Santana, Sons of William, Stephen F., The Blonds, Thomas Wylde

WHAT Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week want is more Francesca Liberatores. What a breath of fresh air and creativity these last few seasons!

Fall-Winter 2015 is full of delights and surprises.

From the Francesca Liberatore Fall-Winter 2015 collection.

A pair of well-tailored, wide-legged trousers with massive sway is heading in this direction, that is until the turn and behold, a pair of well-tailored shorts. Baring a surfeit of asymmetry and other characteristics is a b&w print vest. It is busy in a good way.

The asymmetrical series of navy and white with creme cording that opens the show is thoughtful. An interesting proposition from a black button-down dress with jewel-neck collar and cutout at the hem and a hint of a flounce.

Consider the forget-me-not black peacoat with fur collar and geometric metallic cutout at hem over a metallic pencil skirt, finely cut. The persistent and shape-shifting star (handbag, tote, necklace, bracelet ...) in red, black, then Dallas Cowboys blue – all bordered by a silver lining. What is this thing about?

The London-trained designer gives edge, urbanity, sophistication and whimsy.

More. More. More …!

LEANNE MARSHALL

From the Fall-Winter 2015 Leanne Marshall collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

IT'S circa 19th century France.

A young lady journeys there, looking for love.

It is not known whether she found love and lost it - mayhap some nobleman overpromised and underdelivered. Possibly, her beloved died tragically or she simply did not find love at all.

This quest would become a burning desire - an obsession. She is bitterly disappointed.

It drives her mad.

Throughout the saga of her heroine, the Project Runway" Season 5 winner turns her out in beautiful frocks of the era.

Accents such as draping and folding abound on bodices and skirts. Ruffles gather in surprising places. Occasionally, the dresses are bathed with ethereal watercolor prints.

The color palette changes with the romantic's state of mind - a deep wine color during her obsession.

Moodiest blue when she is in mental distress.

Beautiful tableaux, marred only by omnipresent wrinkles worrying the silk chiffon and organza.

On deck today, LAST Day: Arts Hearts Fashion, Blue Les Copains, Calvin Klein, Cynthia Vincent, Dorin Negrau, Ikumi, J. Mendal, Marc Jacobs, Peter Som, Ralph Lauren, Sergio Davila, Sherri Hill, Tokyo Runway Meets New York

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 6: Word About Zang Toi Is ... ; And One for Michael Costello, Too; Skingraft's Exploration; Nice Work and Todd Harrison Calvert Has Gotten It ...

From the Zang Toi Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photo by William Gaines.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 6: Alexander Vida, Badgley Mischka, Baja East, Christina Ottaviano, Diesel Black Gold, Elie Tahari, Georgine, Harbison, J. Crew, Jenny Packham, KTZ, Lela Rose, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Michael Costello, Lupe Gajardo, Narciso Rodriguez, Naeem Khan, Oscar de la Renta, Pedro Del Hierro, Rachel Zoe, Rodarte, Skingraft, Sophie Theallet, The Art Institutes, Tory Burch, Vera Wang, Zang Toi

IT'S a best practice before a Zang Toi show to lock down which superlative one is going to tag it with. For fall winter 2015, the designer considers the “Mystique Beauty of Venice.”

Sumptuous is to be the keyword for this ZT production. His Venice is a place where by day, a lady is turned out in basics of the highest quality fabrics, accessorized by the black murano glass necklace, for instance.

This one applique transforms her insouciant taupe lamb suede classic twinset and black georgette fortuny pleated maxi skirt into an arresting vision.

It sets the tone for the show and defines the keyword. The taupe handloomed cashmere and silk turtleneck twinset with hand-beaded tweeds ensemble – sumptuous. Brown handloomed cashmere and silk and ribbon and silk and wool tweed jacket and mini sheath dress, the very same.

Relaxed elegance at Zang Toi for FW15. Photo by William Gaines.

A lone bone to pick with this sumptuous feast is an evening confection: The black lame fortuny pleated venetian gown bordered with bronze crystal is in need of some tapering lest the poor (not really, but one gets the meaning) woman will appear as if she is expecting a happy event. Not a happy event if she is not.

The grand finale – the showstopper for the masquerade ball where one will no doubt waltz – should have been the black silk faille strapless ballgown with hand-embroidered chenille and bullion venetian arches. Without any adornment what so ever, it is beautiful. Sumptuous.

MICHAEL COSTELLO

From the Michael Costello Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

IN Europe, too (Paris and London), as well as Japan is Michael Costello. His jetsetter is very different from Zang Toi's, though.

Where the latter's lady adheres to the strictures of subtlety, decency and class, the former's is a bodacious broad who flirts shamelessly with indecency, forgetting or ignoring the good manners that were instilled in her. Perhaps, her wardrobe choices are what sexy means at the moment. She conforms to societal norms, however, when she takes herself off to Asia.

Before the start of the show the ears of Yours Truly catch snatches of the running commentary about MC from a woman sitting on the row behind me. “… In L.A., his models have big boobs and butts ...; he makes stuff that Kim KardasHian wears ...”


The reality star is a customer, as is Beyonce among others of the curvaceous set.

The first look out of the gate does not give lie to the words of our commentator. It is a fishnet-lace gown with a left split so high as to cause altitude sickness and one's very proper grandmother to call for the smelling salts were she to clap eyes on it.

In his program notes, the former “Project Runway” and “Project Runway All-Stars” finalist discloses that his woman “demands attention.” And she will have it. Most of this inventory – well-crafted, one must note – is not for the faint of heart or lack of a bangin' body.



The imperfect 99 percent can limit its consumption to the wardrobe dedicated to the Japanese leg of the jaunt.

SKINGRAFT


A little more refinement to its underground, counterculture pose most pronounced in embellished coats, jackets and vests redolent of the ponchos favored by the Peruvian nomad that in part informs the collection. Creme and white are conspicuous, though the oversized white shirt is off course in this odyssey.

Todd Harrison Calvert Has Many Reasons to Smile

Interior of Glasscock Boutique in Louisville, Kentucky. Photo from Glasscock Web site.

WHY is Todd Harrison Calvert smiling?

First, because he has good teeth and wants to show them off. Perhaps, but not really; he's a smiler.

Another possibility is because he is the buyer for the exclusive Glasscock Boutique in Louisville, Kentucky, an embodiment of a cushy gig. His job title, as it appears on his business card, is "Director of Fashion & Marketing." (http://www.glasscockinc.com/)

Through Glasscock, this son of a banker procures for the "upper two percent." The kind of folk who renovate a guesthouse on their Tampa, Florida beach compound especially for him. Folk who arrange riding lessons for THC; who have him rigged out with the proper attire to look the picture of equestrian elegance sitting astride a horse.

Can his very own horse be far behind. He didn't answer directly if one does not consider the glee winking out from the irises of his eyes. "My clients have names like Fo__es," he discloses during our tête-à-tête in the Mercedes-Benz Star Lounge. "Bergdorf Goodman wishes they had my clientele."

Indeed, that rarefied retailer would, considering that THC represents the demographic that can spare $250,000 for a Zang Toi gown.

"I have already seen the collection," he gives me to know about a show scheduled in two hours for the hoi polloi.

When one is parting with that amount of coin, is it any wonder that previews are part of the package. Is it any wonder that when THC calls at Carolina Herrera the lady pays her addresses to him herself?

TC's dream job was born one fateful morning when a mutual friend called upon him on the phone at 7:30 – "I had not even had my first cup of coffee" – entreating him to help her friend, a damsel whose business (Glasscock) was in distress.

What started out as 15 hours a week by necessity would become a full-time job. Making a brand viable again and whipping into shape a lethargic and complacent staff demands a body's undivided attention.

Todd Harrison Calvert in the Mercedes-Benz Star Lounge. Photo by Yours Truly.

"I had other clients but could wrap them up in a month," THC recalls.

And so he did. Fast forward to the present day. His work brings him to New York a couple of times a month. When he journeys North for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week in tow are usually a few Glasscock clients.

Horizons are soon to expand, however – restlessness threatens; ennui is setting in – taking THC&Co.to places like Paris and London.

In Europe, they will replicate their New World behavior: sit on the front row, pointing and saying “I want that and that and that ..." like much of the 98 percent chooses from the list of adds-on at Chipotle, for instance.

And what does THC do? " I take notes."

On deck today, Day 7: Alexis Bittar, Anna Sui, Bibhu Mohapatra, B Michael, Boss Womenswear, Clover Canyon, Delpozo, Eidos, Elizabeth and James, Erin Fetherston, Francesca Liberatore, Iijin, Greg Lauren, Jeremy Scott, Laquan Smith, Leanne Marshall, Lie Sangbong, Malan Breton, Marchesa, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Newbark, Pink Sheep Heiress, Proenza Schouler, Rolando Santana, Sons of William, Stephen F., The Blonds, Thomas Wylde

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 5: Angel Sanchez In Good Company; Taoray Wang – Focus!; T.Tandon, the Dogooder; Aunt Tea Annie's Big T NYC Riff; BradleyTheodore Splatters Live Art ...



HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.


From the Angel Sanchez Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 5: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Adeam, Alice + Olivia, Angel Sanchez, Barbara Tfank, Black'D, Brock Collection, Carolina Herrera, Dennis Basso, Donna Karan New York, Eckhaus Latta, Heimstone, Houghton, Karen Walker, Landeros New York, La Petite Robe Di Chiara Boni, Libertine, Milly by Michelle Smith, Nicopanda, Oudifu, Ovadia & Sons, Pamella Roland, Patrik Ervell, Rag & Bone, Ready to Fish, Reem Acra, Row Assoulin, Taoray Wang, Thom Browne, Tommy Hilfiger, The Row, The White Space, Tina Tandon, Veronica Beard, Vivienne Tam, Yeohlee, Zac Posen, Zero + Maria Cornejo

THIS is an Angel Sanchez production. Yet, it is so easy to believe that one is in a Carmen Marc Valvo show, for instance. Another craftsman about his business. Everything is done on a superior scale: fabrics, cuts, colors, lengths. No gimmicks. Not a hair out of place. (See video at top.).

TAORAY WANG

From the Taoray Wang Fall-Winter 2015 collection.

PLEASE, you are saying too much simultaneously. On the one hand, I infer micro-mini dresses. In the next breath, my ears are assaulted with mannish pants. Elsewhere, a whisper of minimalist shifts. Moreover, the plaid series? Really? Sound arguments. What's needed, however, is one coherent statement. Thanks.


Hopefully, T.Tandon's Good Deeds Won't Go Unpurchased



ECO-FRIENDLY. Socially-conscious. Charitable. Fashion-sensical

What's not to like about T.Tandon? Surely, something – for no one or nothing is perfect, of course. But it is difficult to find fault with this line created by Tina Tandon.

T.Tandon Fall-Winter 2015.

The FIT grad showed her fall winter 15 collection at the TechStyle NYC popup space at The House of Bumble. FW 15 is inspired by the winter garden. “I'm always inspired by nature," TT says. (See video above).

It becomes apparent in a bunch of crystals on the bodice of a sleeveless dress in the color of a winter sky. A black shift with streaming paillettes or sequins references a rainfall, perhaps even icicles.

This is TT's fourth line. After graduation, she cut her teeth in the business working with such houses as Escada and Christian Lacroix. In fashioning her garments, she relies heavily on bio-degradable and sustainable fabrics.

T.Tandon Fall-Winter 2015.

Her consciousness does not end there, however. A portion of proceeds from sales goes to support charities that help poor children in India, hopefully rescuing them from the horrors of child labor. Further, TT says she mainly produces her line in factories owned by women.

And who does she design for? “Young professional and older women who like to wear something that is interesting and not boring, something of good quality … something unique that is not available everywhere.”

Visit http://www.ttandon.com to learn more about T.Tandon.

Big T NYC Hails From China, Not Africa, China


Yours Truly is in search of some sustenance. It is at this moment that I meet the very affable Annie.

“Would you like some tea,” she asks with a high-wattage smile.

Annie, brand ambassador for Big T NYC.

I have just approached the counter in the corner of the 8th floor room of The House of Bumble. Normally, food can be foraged in this quarter. In progress is TechStyle NYC, a popup retails space where various manner of business connected to the fashion industry is marketing wares to the media and tastemakers invited through the doors.

I am more in the mood for tea sandwiches, but how is Annie to know this? “What kind of tea is it.”

It's as if the Indiana native were waiting for me to ask that very question. She launches into a delightful spiel about how her niece (Theresa Krier), who formerly worked in the fashion industry, created Big T NYC.

The daughter of her brother observed backstage at the fashion shows that the parched models would not drink the juices and sodas – and can one blame them??? To that end, she put on her thinking caps and in late 2013 what TK&Co. call the world's first couture tea brand was birthed.

It's organic, too. This excited Anne to no end. She recalled how it came from Africa – no – was it China???

Said I unhelpfully, “It was a province in China called Africa!”

“No, I think it was China,” Annie determines, hedging and entreating me not to think ill of her for not unequivocally knowing this one major detail.

The Big T NYC Couture Collection gift set contain the three Big T NYC organic teas, an infuser, and a tea-making guide. Photo from Big T NYC Web site.

No worries. We are clear on the other salient points. The tea is organic. At the moment there are three blends: Baby It's Cold Outside Black Tea, Unexpected Fling Green Tea and Tell-Tale Glow White Tea. They are available backstage at many shows during New York Fashion Week and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (and elsewhere).

As best as anyone knows – unless another turns up to contradict it with irrefutable proof – Big T NYC is the world's first couture tea, “bringing artistry and gourmet flavor combinations to the tea category.”

Finally, it is not sourced from Africa, China.

http://www.bigtnyc.com/ to learn more about Big T NYC.

At Italia Independent Party, Bradley Theodore Creates Some Extremely Contemporary Art



LATER, I'm going to do some live art,” Bradley Theodore volunteers as he quickly and deftly paints the rims of a pair of sunglasses.

“Isn't this live art, “ asks Yours Truly, pointing at the ministrations being applied to a pair that has a passing resemblance to the Ray-Ban Wayfarer.

The digital media specialist and street artist utters nary another word, but methinks I glimpse a smirk.

We are at the store opening party for the Italian eyewear brand, Italia Independent. The specialty label is setting up shop in Soho at 85 Mercer St.

Later, at the afterparty at the Skyroom of the New Museum, the disclosure of this native of Turks & Caicos would come to life in full, living color. (See a before version on the video above and the after version in the photo below.)

Visit http://www.bradleytheodore.com/ to learn more about Bradley Theodore; visit http://www.italiaindependent.com/en to learn more Italia Independent.

Bradley Theodore's live art is finished.

On deck today, Day 6: Alexander Vida, Badgley Mischka, Baja East, Christina Ottaviano, Diesel Black Gold, Elie Tahari, Georgine, Harbison, J. Crew, Jenny Packham, KTZ, Lela Rose, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Michael Costello, Lupe Gajardo, Narciso Rodriguez, Naeem Khan, Oscar de la Renta, Pedro Del Hierro, Rachel Zoe, Rodarte, Skingraft, Sophie Theallet, The Art Institutes, Tory Burch, Vera Wang, Zang Toi

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Monday, February 16, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 4: Negris LeBrum Says It Loud; 2 Words for Carmen Marc Valvo; En Forme at David Tlale; Custo Barcelona Is Less Than

From the Negris LeBrum Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 4: Bobby Abley, B. Olivacee, Carmen Marc Valvo, Chloe Gosselin, Custo Barcelona, David Tlale, Derek Lam, Devon HL, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Dree Collection, Edun Etxeberria, Franco Lacosta, FTL Moda, Grungy Gentleman, Hood, JM Couture, Laurel DeWitt, LM by Leanne Marshall, Negris LeBrum, Opening Ceremony, Porsche Design, Prabal Gurung, Pret-a-Porter, Public School, Ranfan, Rochambeau, Thaddeus O'Neill, Thakoon, Tim Coppens, Tracy Reese, Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Hu, Yigal Azrouel, Zoe Jordan

SHE is very confident. She is very passionate. She does what she wants. She is, “Loved by many, admired by all. She's elegantly perceived.”

In essence, this is the Negris LeBrum woman. Houston-based designer Travis Hamilton, who designs the line, said in a post-show interview at the Stollway Event Space, that the fall-winter 2015 collection is inspired by the label's “slogan,” the supreme truth that black is beautiful (Le noir est joli; see video above).

“Our whole collection is based off the color black. We go from the color black, to the lighter and darker shades of gray.”

To that end, the collection is black-centric with support from white and gray. And a bodacious orange, portending things to come, TH said. (See video below).

These are frocks that whisper, rather than announce themselves loudly.

TH, who is has been doing this 15 years or more – not 15 minutes (note to self) – says the woman really does make these clothes. “The way she walks. The way she talks. Her mannerisms … her personality.”

Are these showstoppers? Must they be required to be? Certainly, these competent, confident creations command the attention.

Visit http://www.negrislebrum.com/ to learn more about Negris LeBrum.

CARMEN MARC VALVO


Elegant. Classy. One keeps toggling between these two adjectives to describe the fall-winter 2015 collection. It is informed by school. Consequently, sparkle is imparted to professorial tweed and school-uniform tartan. Checkered and striped fur suggests sports uniforms. The illusion series – organza paired with a nonsheer, giving the impression of exposed skin – just looks smart.

DAVID TLALE


Forget about unappealing brownish print bled onto opening series. Focus solely on shapes. Now, observe that shape of print series and entire collection – created by pleating, draping and folding – is stunning. Do also note the fine finish achieved by fusing frocks from different cultures.

CUSTO BARCELONA


More is more. Less is more. A colleague and I agree. Here is less. Solids are granted more space. There is a marked decrease in print combinations. An uptick of plaid is observed … Elsewhere, a couple of conspicuously bright-colored affairs on the women's side. Party crashers? Throw them out!

On deck today, Day 5: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Adeam, Alice + Olivia, Angel Sanchez, Barbara Tfank, Black'D, Brock Collection, Carolina Herrera, Dennis Basso, Donna Karan New York, Eckhaus Latta, Heimstone, Houghton, Karen Walker, Landeros New York, La Petite Robe Di Chiara Boni, Libertine, Milly by Michelle Smith, Nicopanda, Oudifu, Ovadia & Sons, Pamella Roland, Patrik Ervell, Rag & Bone, Ready to Fish, Reem Acra, Row Assoulin, Taoray Wang, Thom Browne, Tommy Hilfiger, The Row, The White Space, Veronica Beard, Vivienne Tam, Yeohlee, Zac Posen, Zero + Maria Cornejo

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Sunday, February 15, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 3: In Video – Herve Leger Has Some Surprises; Idan Cohen Has a Passing Grade; Fashion Has a Heart ...



HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 3: Adam Lippes, Academy of Art University, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, A Sia, Asia Fashion Collection, Baby Ghost, Banana Republic, Billy Reid, Brandon Sun, Calla, CG, Christian Siriano, Collina Strada, Designers' Collective, Dion Lee, Emerging Designers, Gloria Yu, Herve Leger by Max Azria, ICB, Idan Cohen, Isa Arfen, Jay Godfrey, Jill Stuart, Joyrich, Lacoste, Mara Hoffman, Misha Nonoo, Moncler Grenoble, Noon by Noor, Sandy Liang, Son Jung Wan, Tibi, Venexiana, Visvim

HAVING been swept into the Herve Leger by Max Azria show quite unexpectedly, Yours Truly has only one expectation – to see some 30 bandage dresses done up this way and the other – many of them too tight and too short for these tastebuds.

What I did not expect was to be impressed and fairly gushing with delight. HLbMA is at war. Last year, it seemed that there was spirited debate about whether to fight. It was obvious in the inexplicable cutouts about the shoulders of a lone dress, or was it two? In the lengths and shapes the designing duo went to – long, short, medium, fitted, flared, frumpy. The colors were hither and yon. There was little or no consensus

For Fall-Winter 2015, the room is on the same page. A cohesiveness exists that these eyes have heretofore not witnessed in a HLbMA collection. Discarded are the cutouts. Only a token number of micro-miniesque dresses remain. The shape is mainly fitted with generous amounts of flattering flounce.

Hardware? Yes, from a smattering to a profusion like that suggested by the black boatneck flounce dress. Color is held in check: a couple of prints, a dash of pale pink (perhaps mauve), black, gray, moody blue. And the best and the brightest: white. (See video at top).

My neighbor, dolled up in the label from head to toe, confirmed my suspicions. “Leroux [Herve's surname] said it was based on a Japanese warrior.”

Leaving little doubt about where this is going, the models come out for the final walk marching two abreast.

IDAN COHEN: A C+. That's the grade that the Israeli designer gets for his Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week debut. His collection of evening gowns and bridal wear is often beautiful and always classy. Colors are delicious. With more experience, however, he will pay closer attention to the details, preventing lapses such as the occasional puckering. (See video above).

The Heart of Fashion Doesn't Need Rescuing

It's an arresting sight. A large yellow sign baring large black writing and an arrow is plastered on a storefront window a couple of doors down from Empire Hotel, across the street from the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tents

Here is the fashion week headquarters of The International Rescue Committee (IRC). According to spokeswoman Sandee Borgman, this outfits helps place in this country people from around the world who have been displaced in their native land, owing to natural and/or manmade disasters. (http://www.rescue.org / see video below).

At its temporary headquarters, IRC is plying visitors with information, gift bags, Wifi as well as delicious and nutritious bone broth from chef Marco Canora's Hearth Restaurant.
(http://www.restauranthearth.com/)

IRC made its fashion week debut last year. It was such as success that the organization is back. And why fashion week?

“We recognized that fashion has a heart.”

On deck today, Day 4: Bobby Abley, B. Olivacee, Carmen Marc Valvo, Chloe Gosselin, Custo Barcelona, David Tlale, Derek Lam, Devon HL, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Dree Collection, Edun Etxeberria, Franco Lacosta, FTL Moda, Grungy Gentleman, Hood, JM Couture, Laurel DeWitt, LM by Leanne Marshall, Negris LeBrum, Opening Ceremony, Porsche Design, Prabal Gurung, Pret-a-Porter, Public School, Ranfan, Rochambeau, Thaddeus O'Neill, Thakoon, Tim Coppens, Tracy Reese, Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Hu, Yigal Azrouel, Zoe Jordan

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Saturday, February 14, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 2: It's a Cold, Cold World; Skirting the Issue at Kye; Boho Babes at Rebecca Minkoff; Discovery at Fendi ...

From the Kye Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photo from Kye.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 2: Adam Selman, A Detacher, Ammerman Schlosberg, A Moi, Annie Bing, Asaf Ganot, August Getty, Charlotte Ronson, Chromat, City of Hope, Concept Korea, Cushnie et Ochs, Cynthia Rowley, Edie Parker, Ese Azenabor, Espion Atelier, Fatema Fardan, Gabriela Hearst, Jason Wu, John Eliott + Co., Kate Spade New York, Kye, Mark & Estel, Mongol, Monique Lhuillier, Naadam, N. Hoolwood, Nicole Miller, Nina Athanasiou, Novis, Orley, Rconic Collections by Amiat, Rebecca Minkoff, Romana Keveza, Roomeur, Rubin & Chapelle, Sally LaPointe, Siki, Suno, Wes Gordon, Tanya Taylor, Veda, Yuna Yang, Zimmermann

ARGUABLY, the most profound fashion statements illustrated yesterday were by the masses bundled up against the frigid tundra that was New York City. And to think that the worst is yet to come. Pity.

On Day 2 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week, these eyes clapped on far two many bare ankles. What are these young ladies thinking – and yes, virtually all of these exhibitionistic body parts belonged to females?

Sitting next to Yours Truly in the Mercedes-Benz Star Lounge is a young lady got up in a gorgeous stripped taupe and brown wool skirt. On top, she is covered by some sort of cropped top, possibly bolero jacket system. There may be a turtleneck.

Scroll down to her feet. They are only covered by some strappy kick-ass, slingback, string-up pumps. One could not resist.

“How are your feet doing?”
The rejoinder: “I know. I know. They are freezing.”

But I digress, because the shows did go on. At Kye, still having fun in hipsterville. And still not conforming in a collection that leans heavily on red and black. The most successful executions put men in skirts in a way that makes sense. On the women's side, nothing exceptional.

Meanwhile, Rebecca Minkoff – channeling Patti Smith and her memoir of 60s and 70s New York City rich kid milieu, “Just Kids” – has all manner of rock- and pop art-inspired influences in a collection marked by miniskirts, minidresses, embroidery, floral tops, vests and such.

It is all over the place – that is its cohesiveness – as was PM. The collection speaks more emphatically of rocker chick bohemian, but in a sheltered, sanitized uptown Jewish girl sort of way.

Performing for RM this season was Marian Hill. This is a possible explanation for why the Pavilion tent reached fire-marshall capacity, relegating some to watch and film the proceedings from the Star Lounge. (See video above).

At Fendi: Karl, Sarah Jessica, Naomi, Martha, Rihanna and, Introducing ANDREA SPIRIDONAKOS

Andrea Spiridonakos on the back. Photo taken by Mitchell Acks with the iPhone of Andrea Spiridonakos.

“We actually moved here in November 2014,” a sales consultant who shall only be identified as EH gives Yours Truly to know. “But we waited to have this party until we got everything organized."

Well, it does take some time to organize one's self in more than 18,000 square feet of chicfulness, elegance and luxury. Fendi seems to have set things aright. At last night's opening party of its flagship store in the United States all appeared to be in order.

It is a star-studded affair in the two-story space at 57th street and Madison Ave. Let's see who is here:
Karl Lagerfeld. “Looking like a corpse,” observes one wag.
Sara Jessica Parker, who designed a handbag. And what was she wearing, “Oh, I didn't notice,” recalls the fauxtog who snapped myriad images of the "Sex in the City" star.

Zoe Kravitz. I cross paths with the issue of Lenny and Lisa upstairs and compliment her midback-length locks. "These are thin braids," she clarifies. Moving in closer and squinting, I see that indeed they are! They still look good.
Naomi Campbell. Surrounded by an adoring public, and looking not quite herself. In fact, looking like someone else. Pity.
Martha Stewart. Openly admiring a neon blue fur. Herself, however is got up in a wool – possibly cashmere – brownish maxi coat with a fur collar.

Rihanna, another handbag designer. She arrives nearly 30 minutes after the party officially ends. My phone and phone charger gave out during the Rihanna vigil, taking away the option of any photos of anybody ... “Hello, Rihanna. Glad you could make it,” utters I, ironically as she passes me in hugging (or neck-choking) distance.

“Thank you,” she smiles glowingly, grazing my shoulder with a hand as she blithely makes her way toward the stairs to the second floor.

Andrea Spiridonakos on the rack. Photo courtesy of Andrea Spiridonakos.

Andrea Spiridonakos. Remember the name. The former dancer and current designer is got up in the most fetching concoction of a cropped top that she designed herself. We collaborate, then decide that the color of this plasticized silk affair is smoky lavender. (http://www.itsandrea.com)

Only a few people had complimented her frock by the time I'd discovered her. However, this could be put down to the fact that she is situated toward the back of the room on the crowded second floor near some accessories. Few have had an opportunity to admire her creation as did the young man who spotted it as she was making her way downstairs.

The ballerina toured the United States and Europe as a soloist with the Miami City Ballet and Christopher Wheeldon's “Morphoses.” She graduates from FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) in the spring. Shortly afterward, she is off to Paris to further her training with the prestigious Maison Lesage and Maison Longnon. AS is going to learn such craft as draping, though she is quite far along already, judging by the clothes on her back.

Andrea Spiridonakos. Remember the name.

On Deck today, Day 3: Adam Lippes, Academy of Art University, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, A Sia, Asia Fashion Collection, Baby Ghost, Banana Republic, Billy Reid, Brandon Sun, Calla, CG, Christian Siriano, Collina Strada, Designers' Collective, Dion Lee, Emerging Designers, Gloria Yu, Herve Leger by Max Azria, ICB, Idan Cohen, Isa Arfen, Jay Godfrey, Jill Stuart, Joyrich, Lacoste, Mara Hoffman, Misha Nonoo, Moncler Grenoble, Noon by Noor, Sandy Liang, Son Jung Wan, Tibi, Venexiana, Visvim

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.
 
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