From the Kye Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photo from Kye.HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.
SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 2: Adam Selman, A Detacher, Ammerman Schlosberg, A Moi, Annie Bing, Asaf Ganot, August Getty, Charlotte Ronson, Chromat, City of Hope, Concept Korea, Cushnie et Ochs, Cynthia Rowley, Edie Parker, Ese Azenabor, Espion Atelier, Fatema Fardan, Gabriela Hearst, Jason Wu, John Eliott + Co., Kate Spade New York, Kye, Mark & Estel, Mongol, Monique Lhuillier, Naadam, N. Hoolwood, Nicole Miller, Nina Athanasiou, Novis, Orley, Rconic Collections by Amiat, Rebecca Minkoff, Romana Keveza, Roomeur, Rubin & Chapelle, Sally LaPointe, Siki, Suno, Wes Gordon, Tanya Taylor, Veda, Yuna Yang, Zimmermann
ARGUABLY, the most profound fashion statements illustrated yesterday were by the masses bundled up against the frigid tundra that was New York City. And to think that the worst is yet to come. Pity.
On Day 2 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week, these eyes clapped on far two many bare ankles. What are these young ladies thinking – and yes, virtually all of these exhibitionistic body parts belonged to females?
Sitting next to Yours Truly in the Mercedes-Benz Star Lounge is a young lady got up in a gorgeous stripped taupe and brown wool skirt. On top, she is covered by some sort of cropped top, possibly bolero jacket system. There may be a turtleneck.
Scroll down to her feet. They are only covered by some strappy kick-ass, slingback, string-up pumps. One could not resist.
“How are your feet doing?”
The rejoinder: “I know. I know. They are freezing.”
But I digress, because the shows did go on. At Kye, still having fun in hipsterville. And still not conforming in a collection that leans heavily on red and black. The most successful executions put men in skirts in a way that makes sense. On the women's side, nothing exceptional.
Meanwhile, Rebecca Minkoff – channeling Patti Smith and her memoir of 60s and 70s New York City rich kid milieu, “Just Kids” – has all manner of rock- and pop art-inspired influences in a collection marked by miniskirts, minidresses, embroidery, floral tops, vests and such.
It is all over the place – that is its cohesiveness – as was PM. The collection speaks more emphatically of rocker chick bohemian, but in a sheltered, sanitized uptown Jewish girl sort of way.
Performing for RM this season was Marian Hill. This is a possible explanation for why the Pavilion tent reached fire-marshall capacity, relegating some to watch and film the proceedings from the Star Lounge. (See video above).
At Fendi: Karl, Sarah Jessica, Naomi, Martha, Rihanna and, Introducing ANDREA SPIRIDONAKOS
Andrea Spiridonakos on the back. Photo taken by Mitchell Acks with the iPhone of Andrea Spiridonakos.“We actually moved here in November 2014,” a sales consultant who shall only be identified as EH gives Yours Truly to know. “But we waited to have this party until we got everything organized."
Well, it does take some time to organize one's self in more than 18,000 square feet of chicfulness, elegance and luxury. Fendi seems to have set things aright. At last night's opening party of its flagship store in the United States all appeared to be in order.
It is a star-studded affair in the two-story space at 57th street and Madison Ave. Let's see who is here:
Karl Lagerfeld. “Looking like a corpse,” observes one wag.
Sara Jessica Parker, who designed a handbag. And what was she wearing, “Oh, I didn't notice,” recalls the fauxtog who snapped myriad images of the "Sex in the City" star.
Zoe Kravitz. I cross paths with the issue of Lenny and Lisa upstairs and compliment her midback-length locks. "These are thin braids," she clarifies. Moving in closer and squinting, I see that indeed they are! They still look good.
Naomi Campbell. Surrounded by an adoring public, and looking not quite herself. In fact, looking like someone else. Pity.
Martha Stewart. Openly admiring a neon blue fur. Herself, however is got up in a wool – possibly cashmere – brownish maxi coat with a fur collar.
Rihanna, another handbag designer. She arrives nearly 30 minutes after the party officially ends. My phone and phone charger gave out during the Rihanna vigil, taking away the option of any photos of anybody ... “Hello, Rihanna. Glad you could make it,” utters I, ironically as she passes me in hugging (or neck-choking) distance.
“Thank you,” she smiles glowingly, grazing my shoulder with a hand as she blithely makes her way toward the stairs to the second floor.
Andrea Spiridonakos on the rack. Photo courtesy of Andrea Spiridonakos.Andrea Spiridonakos. Remember the name. The former dancer and current designer is got up in the most fetching concoction of a cropped top that she designed herself. We collaborate, then decide that the color of this plasticized silk affair is smoky lavender. (http://www.itsandrea.com)
Only a few people had complimented her frock by the time I'd discovered her. However, this could be put down to the fact that she is situated toward the back of the room on the crowded second floor near some accessories. Few have had an opportunity to admire her creation as did the young man who spotted it as she was making her way downstairs.
The ballerina toured the United States and Europe as a soloist with the Miami City Ballet and Christopher Wheeldon's “Morphoses.” She graduates from FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) in the spring. Shortly afterward, she is off to Paris to further her training with the prestigious Maison Lesage and Maison Longnon. AS is going to learn such craft as draping, though she is quite far along already, judging by the clothes on her back.
Andrea Spiridonakos. Remember the name.
On Deck today, Day 3: Adam Lippes, Academy of Art University, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, A Sia, Asia Fashion Collection, Baby Ghost, Banana Republic, Billy Reid, Brandon Sun, Calla, CG, Christian Siriano, Collina Strada, Designers' Collective, Dion Lee, Emerging Designers, Gloria Yu, Herve Leger by Max Azria, ICB, Idan Cohen, Isa Arfen, Jay Godfrey, Jill Stuart, Joyrich, Lacoste, Mara Hoffman, Misha Nonoo, Moncler Grenoble, Noon by Noor, Sandy Liang, Son Jung Wan, Tibi, Venexiana, Visvim
Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.
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