HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.
SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 3: Adam Lippes, Academy of Art University, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, A Sia, Asia Fashion Collection, Baby Ghost, Banana Republic, Billy Reid, Brandon Sun, Calla, CG, Christian Siriano, Collina Strada, Designers' Collective, Dion Lee, Emerging Designers, Gloria Yu, Herve Leger by Max Azria, ICB, Idan Cohen, Isa Arfen, Jay Godfrey, Jill Stuart, Joyrich, Lacoste, Mara Hoffman, Misha Nonoo, Moncler Grenoble, Noon by Noor, Sandy Liang, Son Jung Wan, Tibi, Venexiana, Visvim
HAVING been swept into the Herve Leger by Max Azria show quite unexpectedly, Yours Truly has only one expectation – to see some 30 bandage dresses done up this way and the other – many of them too tight and too short for these tastebuds.
What I did not expect was to be impressed and fairly gushing with delight. HLbMA is at war. Last year, it seemed that there was spirited debate about whether to fight. It was obvious in the inexplicable cutouts about the shoulders of a lone dress, or was it two? In the lengths and shapes the designing duo went to – long, short, medium, fitted, flared, frumpy. The colors were hither and yon. There was little or no consensus
For Fall-Winter 2015, the room is on the same page. A cohesiveness exists that these eyes have heretofore not witnessed in a HLbMA collection. Discarded are the cutouts. Only a token number of micro-miniesque dresses remain. The shape is mainly fitted with generous amounts of flattering flounce.
Hardware? Yes, from a smattering to a profusion like that suggested by the black boatneck flounce dress. Color is held in check: a couple of prints, a dash of pale pink (perhaps mauve), black, gray, moody blue. And the best and the brightest: white. (See video at top).
My neighbor, dolled up in the label from head to toe, confirmed my suspicions. “Leroux [Herve's surname] said it was based on a Japanese warrior.”
Leaving little doubt about where this is going, the models come out for the final walk marching two abreast.
IDAN COHEN: A C+. That's the grade that the Israeli designer gets for his Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week debut. His collection of evening gowns and bridal wear is often beautiful and always classy. Colors are delicious. With more experience, however, he will pay closer attention to the details, preventing lapses such as the occasional puckering. (See video above).
The Heart of Fashion Doesn't Need RescuingIt's an arresting sight. A large yellow sign baring large black writing and an arrow is plastered on a storefront window a couple of doors down from Empire Hotel, across the street from the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tents
Here is the fashion week headquarters of The International Rescue Committee (IRC). According to spokeswoman Sandee Borgman, this outfits helps place in this country people from around the world who have been displaced in their native land, owing to natural and/or manmade disasters. (http://www.rescue.org / see video below).
At its temporary headquarters, IRC is plying visitors with information, gift bags, Wifi as well as delicious and nutritious bone broth from chef Marco Canora's Hearth Restaurant.
IRC made its fashion week debut last year. It was such as success that the organization is back. And why fashion week?
“We recognized that fashion has a heart.”
On deck today, Day 4: Bobby Abley, B. Olivacee, Carmen Marc Valvo, Chloe Gosselin, Custo Barcelona, David Tlale, Derek Lam, Devon HL, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Dree Collection, Edun Etxeberria, Franco Lacosta, FTL Moda, Grungy Gentleman, Hood, JM Couture, Laurel DeWitt, LM by Leanne Marshall, Negris LeBrum, Opening Ceremony, Porsche Design, Prabal Gurung, Pret-a-Porter, Public School, Ranfan, Rochambeau, Thaddeus O'Neill, Thakoon, Tim Coppens, Tracy Reese, Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Hu, Yigal Azrouel, Zoe Jordan
Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.