Friday, February 20, 2015

@MB/NYFW Last Day: Pride of Dorin Negrau; Back to Drawingboard for Ly Qui Khanh; F&F When Tokyo Runway Meets New York

From the Fall-Winter 2015 Dorin Negrau collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Last Day: Arts Hearts Fashion, Blue Les Copains, Calvin Klein, Cynthia Vincent, Dorin Negrau, Ikumi, J. Mendel, Marc Jacobs, Peter Som, Ralph Lauren, Sergio Davila, Sherri Hill, Tokyo Runway Meets New York

NINE observations about the Dorin Negrau Fall-Winter 2015 show:

1NE. The designer uses a combination of models and real-looking women. Perhaps, too, they are all models who look like real women. Further, none may be models;

2WO. It appears that fall-winter 2015 is made up almost exclusively of styles popular in his homeland of Romania;

3HREE. The women (models) are of various heights and variations of slim, though a couple tend toward normal;

4OUR. It is a collection, incorporating brilliant colors like turquoise, orange and fire-engine red;

5IVE. The models appear to be in age anywhere from late 20s to late 40s;

6IX. The beautifully intricate multi-colored bustiers want a snugger fit. All of this moving about is making them (and this viewer) dizzy;

7EVEN. One ensemble, a long navy dress with oversized collar and white vest, is the ugly duckling. Its presence is mystifying. One could find such a one in the clearance bin of a designer discount store;

8IGHT. Several beautiful ensembles, including the one featuring a white jacket, red print sash;

9INE. The more the eyes see of this collection, the more they imagine they are viewing a procession at a Romania Day parade. As a whole, this is too costumey.


From the Ly Qui Khanh Fall-Winter 2015 collection.

SHE takes one tentative step forward, moving very cautiously. One uneasy step at a time until she moves to the right side of the runway. There's a problem with her outfit.

Back on course for perhaps a step, then over to the right side of the runway for more troubleshooting.

It is fitting that on the last day New York Fashion Week of the last season of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week's fractious stay at Lincoln Center there should be some drama, trauma and spectacle.

And so it is – quite by accident – courtesy of Ly Qui Khanh, showing under the New York Life umbrella.

It is obvious that the designer's vision exceeded his reach. The lovely pink and white ballgown – constructed with a lot of tenderness and love, but too little care – was too long and possessed of too many layers for the model to both walk and keep her feet. It is not the only wonderful creation he sends out whose construction may be hazardous to the health of the wearer.

Pandemonium ensues – laughter, snickers, guffaws, catcalls, horror and mortification. No well-meaning person enjoys such a sight. It's akin to watching a figureskater fall or alpine skier crash and burn.

Mercifully, LQK extricates his model and creation from this awful scene. (See the final seconds of the exit in the video).


From the Fall-Winter 2015 collection of mastermind feat for A-GIRL'S.

ANOTHER group show debuting at Fashion Week New York, more evidence that such economy-driven coops are a cottage industry on fashion week calendars around the world. Fun and fab for two out of the seven collections – a showcase for Japanese design talents to the world beyond its borders – that win the coin toss for a mention.

mastermind feat for A-GIRL'S holds down the fun portion with frocks for the prep school set. Supposedly, FW15 is inspired by the hope that peace will prevail on earth. The connection is murky unless it's suggested in the notion that there is nothing offensive here (or particularly creative).


From the Fall-Winter 2015 Dresscamp collection.

DRESSCAMP is inspired by Vanitas. However, the resulting collection – the fabulous side of the Tokyo Runway Meets New York equation – channels the '60s, the 1960s. Two cases in point: the Holly Golightly shift and Jackie-Oesque jackets with shawl collar and three-quarter length sleeves. Deference to today is evident in some fabrics such as leather favored for evening gloves.

Visit to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

No comments :

Post a Comment

Creative Commons License
VEVLYN'S PEN: The Wright take on life by Vevlyn Wright is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License .
Based on a work at .
Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at .