Thursday, February 19, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 7: Get Us More Francesca Liberatore Types at Fashion Week New York

From the Francesca Liberatore Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photos from Francesca Liberatore.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 7: Alexis Bittar, Anna Sui, Bibhu Mohapatra, B Michael, Boss Womenswear, Clover Canyon, Delpozo, Eidos, Elizabeth and James, Erin Fetherston, Francesca Liberatore, Iijin, Greg Lauren, Jeremy Scott, Laquan Smith, Leanne Marshall, Lie Sangbong, Malan Breton, Marchesa, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Newbark, Pink Sheep Heiress, Proenza Schouler, Rolando Santana, Sons of William, Stephen F., The Blonds, Thomas Wylde

WHAT Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week want is more Francesca Liberatores. What a breath of fresh air and creativity these last few seasons!

Fall-Winter 2015 is full of delights and surprises.

From the Francesca Liberatore Fall-Winter 2015 collection.

A pair of well-tailored, wide-legged trousers with massive sway is heading in this direction, that is until the turn and behold, a pair of well-tailored shorts. Baring a surfeit of asymmetry and other characteristics is a b&w print vest. It is busy in a good way.

The asymmetrical series of navy and white with creme cording that opens the show is thoughtful. An interesting proposition from a black button-down dress with jewel-neck collar and cutout at the hem and a hint of a flounce.

Consider the forget-me-not black peacoat with fur collar and geometric metallic cutout at hem over a metallic pencil skirt, finely cut. The persistent and shape-shifting star (handbag, tote, necklace, bracelet ...) in red, black, then Dallas Cowboys blue – all bordered by a silver lining. What is this thing about?

The London-trained designer gives edge, urbanity, sophistication and whimsy.

More. More. More …!


From the Fall-Winter 2015 Leanne Marshall collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

IT'S circa 19th century France.

A young lady journeys there, looking for love.

It is not known whether she found love and lost it - mayhap some nobleman overpromised and underdelivered. Possibly, her beloved died tragically or she simply did not find love at all.

This quest would become a burning desire - an obsession. She is bitterly disappointed.

It drives her mad.

Throughout the saga of her heroine, the Project Runway" Season 5 winner turns her out in beautiful frocks of the era.

Accents such as draping and folding abound on bodices and skirts. Ruffles gather in surprising places. Occasionally, the dresses are bathed with ethereal watercolor prints.

The color palette changes with the romantic's state of mind - a deep wine color during her obsession.

Moodiest blue when she is in mental distress.

Beautiful tableaux, marred only by omnipresent wrinkles worrying the silk chiffon and organza.

On deck today, LAST Day: Arts Hearts Fashion, Blue Les Copains, Calvin Klein, Cynthia Vincent, Dorin Negrau, Ikumi, J. Mendal, Marc Jacobs, Peter Som, Ralph Lauren, Sergio Davila, Sherri Hill, Tokyo Runway Meets New York

Visit to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

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