Showing posts with label Francesca Liberatore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Francesca Liberatore. Show all posts

Sunday, February 12, 2017

From NYFW Fall 2017 Day 3: Taking the Heat for Georgine, and Not Regretting It … Taoray Wang Suits Up in Some Unexpected Ways


Some of the players on Day 3: Georgine, Francesca Liberatore, Paul Andrew, Lacoste, Adam Lippes, Jill Stuart, Taoray Wang, Creatures of the Wind, Romeo Hunte, Ryan Roche, Yuna Yang, Tibi, Son Juan Wan, Dion Lee, Banana Republic, Christian Siriano, Johnathan Simkhai, A Detacher, Simon Miller, Area, Mac Duggal, Julianna Bass, Sheguang Hu, Alexander Wang, Laurence & Chico, Mason Sylvester

BY VW

I
am silently quoting Nelly:

It's getting hot in here, so hot, so take off all your clothes.

At Skylight Clarkson, where a number of Fall 2017 New York Fashion Week: The Shows are being staged, it is sweltering.

Alas, a thousand times alas, those responsible for temperature control did not take into account that all of the equipment necessary to make the warehouse operational would generate as much heat as that emanating from the hundreds of bodies also therein, therefore making it absolutely imperative to install air conditioning. Even though it is winter.

So everyone is overheated. I am especially so, squeezed in on a secondary front row of the Georgine show.

It's getting hot in here, so hot, so take off all your clothes.

From the Fall 2017 Georgine collection. Photo by VW.

I am not certain why this show is so crowded. Is it because designer Georgine Ratelband is inspired by famous hotels and the mythical hotels of song and film titles: The Ritz, The Bates Motel, Hotel California?

Perhaps, it is because the secret is out about the designer. That GR is quite the little craftsman. Or is it craftswoman. Craftsperson?

In any case, she can sew well or has the eye for detail to direct the seamstresses to so well. Yet, her craft goes deeper than that. She seems to possess an innate understanding of the characteristics of fabric.

This is dawning on me as I observe some dresses and skirts in what appears to be a lightweight silk or satin. Forgive me, I am unable to say which hotel they represent because I am too squashed in to consult the run of show (show program). Plus, I am trying to capture some decent images on my mobile phone.

What is apparent is that the designer understands that this particular fabric must be cut in a particular way to produce the undulating effect achieved when one is in transit. I should add that GR is not trying to reinvent the wheel; she merely gives it a fine polish.

That alone is worth one’s momentary discomfort.

TAORAY WANG

From the Taoray Fall 2017 collection. Photos from Getty Images.

DESIGNERS can't resist gender interplay: the idea of mixing and matching, comparing and contrasting, merging and marrying feminine and masculine shapes fabrics, etc.

This is the treatment, as it regards the suit's long history, that Taoray Wang designer Wang Tao recommends for her modern, professional woman. In this latest collection, the designer also further seals her reputation for craft and construction.

Meanwhile, she makes those aforesaid observations in expected ways. For instance, demure lace blouses are paired with rather bold-shouldered, assertive jackets.

Seamlessly, WT also takes that notion sideways a bit, creating winning silhouettes. More specifically, a manly burgundy jacket poured into an slightly undulating girlee black maxi skirt with a slit. An olive wrap dress that once upon a time was a trenchcoat is shortened, wrapped, bedazzled at the hem with asymmetry and firmly belted. A boatneck black lace top with panel down the front, simulating a tie included.

On deck today, Day 4: Victoria Beckham, Asia Fashion Collective, Public School, Rosetta Getty,Tome, Elizabeth Kennedy, Chloe Gosselin, Hood By Air, Sies Marjan, Tracy Reese, Diane von Furstenberg, Beaufille, J. Crew, Sandy Liang, Lujin Zhang, Vivienne Hu, Leanne Marshall, Jenny Packham, Prabal Gurung, Gypsy Sport, Altuzarra, Custo Barcelona, Marcel Ostertag, Namilia, Anthony Rubio, Madeline Stuart, Ana Ono, Temraza, House of Byfield, Saku New York, Willfredo Gerardo, MonnaLisa, Wanda Beauchamp, Lulu Et Gigi, Emma Viedma, Rene & Immanuel Clothing, Vasilije Kovacev

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week.

Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/

CAAFD
http://www.caafd.org/

Thursday, February 19, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 7: Get Us More Francesca Liberatore Types at Fashion Week New York

From the Francesca Liberatore Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photos from Francesca Liberatore.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 7: Alexis Bittar, Anna Sui, Bibhu Mohapatra, B Michael, Boss Womenswear, Clover Canyon, Delpozo, Eidos, Elizabeth and James, Erin Fetherston, Francesca Liberatore, Iijin, Greg Lauren, Jeremy Scott, Laquan Smith, Leanne Marshall, Lie Sangbong, Malan Breton, Marchesa, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Newbark, Pink Sheep Heiress, Proenza Schouler, Rolando Santana, Sons of William, Stephen F., The Blonds, Thomas Wylde

WHAT Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week want is more Francesca Liberatores. What a breath of fresh air and creativity these last few seasons!

Fall-Winter 2015 is full of delights and surprises.

From the Francesca Liberatore Fall-Winter 2015 collection.

A pair of well-tailored, wide-legged trousers with massive sway is heading in this direction, that is until the turn and behold, a pair of well-tailored shorts. Baring a surfeit of asymmetry and other characteristics is a b&w print vest. It is busy in a good way.

The asymmetrical series of navy and white with creme cording that opens the show is thoughtful. An interesting proposition from a black button-down dress with jewel-neck collar and cutout at the hem and a hint of a flounce.

Consider the forget-me-not black peacoat with fur collar and geometric metallic cutout at hem over a metallic pencil skirt, finely cut. The persistent and shape-shifting star (handbag, tote, necklace, bracelet ...) in red, black, then Dallas Cowboys blue – all bordered by a silver lining. What is this thing about?

The London-trained designer gives edge, urbanity, sophistication and whimsy.

More. More. More …!

LEANNE MARSHALL

From the Fall-Winter 2015 Leanne Marshall collection. Photos by Yours Truly.

IT'S circa 19th century France.

A young lady journeys there, looking for love.

It is not known whether she found love and lost it - mayhap some nobleman overpromised and underdelivered. Possibly, her beloved died tragically or she simply did not find love at all.

This quest would become a burning desire - an obsession. She is bitterly disappointed.

It drives her mad.

Throughout the saga of her heroine, the Project Runway" Season 5 winner turns her out in beautiful frocks of the era.

Accents such as draping and folding abound on bodices and skirts. Ruffles gather in surprising places. Occasionally, the dresses are bathed with ethereal watercolor prints.

The color palette changes with the romantic's state of mind - a deep wine color during her obsession.

Moodiest blue when she is in mental distress.

Beautiful tableaux, marred only by omnipresent wrinkles worrying the silk chiffon and organza.

On deck today, LAST Day: Arts Hearts Fashion, Blue Les Copains, Calvin Klein, Cynthia Vincent, Dorin Negrau, Ikumi, J. Mendal, Marc Jacobs, Peter Som, Ralph Lauren, Sergio Davila, Sherri Hill, Tokyo Runway Meets New York

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.
 
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