From NYFW Fall 2017 Day 6: Adrienne Landau Opens Utopian LANDAULAND and Everybody Is Welcome ... THE MUMMY Is Disentombed and Dressed to Kill at The Blonds ... Modesty Does Not Have to Be Dowdy If You Don Anniesa Hasibuan ... We like it When Miguel Vieira Puckers ... Is Mimi Prober Dressing the Stevie Nicks of the World?

From the Fall 2017 Adrienne Landau collection. Photos by Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images.

Some of the players on Day 6: Jil Sander, Josie Natori, Tory Burch, Badgley Mischika, Claudia Li, Naeem Khan, ICB, Barbara Tfank, alice + olivia, Rodarte, Adrienne Landau, Sally LaPointe, Dennis Basso, Gabriela Hearst, Moncler, Coach, Carmen Marc Valvo, threeASFOUR, Mansur Gavriel, Anniesa Hasibuan, Brandon Maxwell, Reem Acra, Miguel Vieira, Monique Lhuillier, Mimi Prober, Narciso Rodriguez, Vaquera, CAAFD Emerging Designers Showcase, The Blonds

BY VW

YOU can wave at the bride and groom leaving their Wedding on a horse and admire the lovely Mom & children. Next, head to the beach and join the Sun Bathers.

These are a few of the adventures on offer at LANDAULAND. Pray, tell, what is LANDAULAND, you ask?

It is none other than the utopia created for Adrienne Landau by true republican and event planner extraordinaire Susanne Bartsch, to celebrate the brand's 40th anniversary. No doubt, this spectacle will go down as the most clever presentation of New York Fashion Week: The Shows Fall 2017.

"At this point in time, we all need to rise up and continue embracing EQUALITY & INCLUSION despite all the social constructs," the designer says in the run of show. "...For fall/winter 2017, ADRIENNE LANDAU persists in celebrating and supporting LOVE, UNITY FREEDOM of expression!"

What an ingenious way to show one's collection of colorful and colorful fur (stoles, vests, jackets, coats) and a few sweatpants! Walk into the darkened, cavernous room and see the aforesaid newlyweds. To the left, along the wall encased in glass are fierce-looking Warriors of various tribes got up in fur, accessorized by exquisite, massive, headdresses. Go right toward the phone booth where a Graffiti Artist, in denim utility vest, is plying his trade.

Across the way along the other wall, the hot beach bodies are lying amongst ginormous Chiquita banana floats getting their tan on. Keep wondering the space and encounter the Working Girls and Club kids, all dressed appropriately for their respective activities.

Half the fun of being at LANDAULAND is figuring out who are the amusements and who are the ones here to be amused. All of the models (and some of the guests) appear to be drag queens, including Amanda LePore and Violet Chachki, whom the designer believes may be perceived as "strange" or "different." Choosing this demographic to model her latest collection could be economically risky, leading some to presume that Adrienne Landau is not for them. They would be wrong.

"I don't design for a particular woman - I design for everyone," AL says. Among celeb clients: Steven Tyler, Beyonce, Lady Gaga and Taraji P. Henson. 

Equality and inclusion ... Do add LANDAULAND to your travel itinerary.

On deck today, DAY 7: J. Mendel, Nebark, Fashion Hong Kong, Michael Kors, Vivienne Tam, LaQuan Smith, Delpozo, Kimora Lee Simmons, Brooks Brothers, Bibhu Mohapatra, Derek Lam. Anna Sui, Marchesa, Assembly New York, Rookie USA, Thom Browne, Ralph Lauren, Irina VitJaz

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at #WrightWreport and on Instagram at #thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week. Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/

CAAFD
http://www.caafd.org/

From NYFW Fall 2017 DAY 5: Zang Toi Is Feeling Royally Blue … Nina Tiari Has Every Reason to Be Elated

From the Zang Toi. Photos from Getty Images.

Some of the players on Day 5: The Row, Carolina Herrera, Rosie Assoulin, Zimmerman, Lela Rose, Alice & Olivia, Kathy Xiomara, Proenza Schouler, Yeohlee, Zadig & Voltaire, Elley Orem, Miranda Kurtishi, Wicked Things Boutique, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Libertine, Mara Hoffman, Frame Denim, Veronica Beard, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Oscar de la Renta, Official Made in Italy x CAAFD Cocktail Presentation, Fleur Kelinza, Vavci, Resty Lagare, Zac Posen, Zang Toi, Chi Zhang, Eckhaus Latta, Hale Bob, Elie Madi, Rocky Gathercole, Philipp Plein

BY VW

AS each ensemble glides by, I am affixing my keyword to it: elegant.

The Zang Toi Fall 2017 on the runway on Day 5 of New York Fashion Week: The Shows is nothing less. Nor is it nothing more. A colleague laments that he has not “enjoyed Zang in years.”

I am not that distressed, but this collection, titled “Brilliant Royal Blue,” does not plague me with goosebumps. Many of the elements for a great collection are here: fine fabrics, superior cuts, pleasing silhouettes ...

What is missing, however, is that wow factor that the designer usually produces ... More shortly; enjoy the photos for now.

ZANG TOI

NINA TIARI

From the Nina Tiari Fall 2017 Collection. Photos by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images.

OUT with the blue; in with the new.

“They gave us a quote and I told them that I couldn’t afford that,” Nina Tiari discloses when this reporter surmises that she must have some serious backers to make possible a debut at the Fall 2017 rendition of New York Fashion Week: The Shows.

Not an offshoot Week. Not an emerging label showing in the hinterlands during fashion week. But showing at one of the official venues – Skylight Clarkson.

“We did everything,” down to arranging for food, she recalls during our chat at her afterparty at The Bowery Hotel. “I wasn’t even nervous – everything was done – I was triple-checking things.”

Not at all a bad way to start. Watching NT's very first collection, inspired by the modern woman, I am impressed with the construction and her tweaks to familiar garments, making them seem fresh and new … More shortly; enjoy the photos for now.

On deck today, DAY 6: Jil Sander, Josie Natori, Tory Burch, Badgley Mischika, Claudia Li, Naeem Khan, ICB, Barbara Tfank, alice + olivia, Rodarte, Adrienne Landau, Sally LaPointe, Dennis Basso, Gabriela Hearst, Moncler, Coach, Carmen Marc Valvo, threeASFOUR, Mansur Gavriel, Anniesa Hasibuan, Brandon Maxwell, Reem Acra, Miguel Vieira, Monique Lhuillier, Mimi Prober, Narciso Rodriguez, Vaquera, CAAFD Emerging Designers Showcase, The Blonds

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at #WrightWreport and on Instagram at #thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week. Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/

CAAFD
http://www.caafd.org/

From NYFW Fall 2017 DAY 4: Basking in the Glorious Light with Custo Barcelona … Saku Espouses Some Concepts That Want More Contemplation … If Lujin Zhang Is The Future, It is Bright Indeed … Marcel Ostertag’s Woman Has Something to Say

Some of the players on Day 4: Victoria Beckham, Public School, Rosetta Getty,Tome, Elizabeth Kennedy, Chloe Gosselin, Hood By Air, Sies Marjan, Tracy Reese, Diane von Furstenberg, Beaufille, J. Crew, Sandy Liang, Lujin Zhang, Vivienne Hu, Leanne Marshall, Jenny Packham, Prabal Gurung, Gypsy Sport, Altuzarra,Custo Barcelona, Marcel Ostertag,Namilia, Anthony Rubio, Madeline Stuart, Ana Ono, Temraza, House of Byfield, Saku New York, Willfredo Gerardo, MonnaLisa, Wanda Beauchamp, Lulu Et Gigi, Emma Viedma, Rene & Immanuel Clothing, Vasilije Kovacev

BY VW

AFTER a few seasons of dragging her feet, someone is now doing a happy dance, for Custo Barcelona is back and has turned the light way up for Fall 2017.

From the Fall 2017 Custo Barcelona collection. Photos by VW.

Meanwhile, emerging label Saku shows some promise (the flounces are adorable), but the collection is too elementary (for instance, bedazzle those pants a bit more) and lacks enough oomph (simple can also tend toward boring). Emerged out of Parsons School of Design a few months ago was Lujin Zhang. She knows her way around asymmetry, deconstruction and repurposing.

Elsewhere, Marcel Ostertag is among numerous designers this season at New York Fashion Week thinking about various protests movements spawned by recent shocking, troubling events. He has women on the move/march; they appear dressed appropriately for the occasion.

And that’s the way some of it was on Day 4 … More shortly; enjoy the photos for now.

CUSTO BARCELONA

SAKU

From the Saku Fall 2017 collection. Photos by VW.

MARCEL OSTERTAG

From the Marcel Ostertag Fall 2017 collection. Photos courtesy of Marcel Ostertag.

On deck today, DAY 5: The Row, Carolina Herrera, Rosie Assoulin, Zimmerman, Lela Rose, Alice & Olivia, Katty Xiomara, Proenza Schouler, Yeohlee, Zadig & Voltaire, Elley Orem, Miranda Kurtishi, Wicked Things Boutique, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Libertine, Mara Hoffman, Frame Denim, Veronica Beard, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Oscar de la Renta, Official Made in Italy x CAAFD Cocktail Presentation, Fleur Kelinza, Vavci, Resty Lagare, Zac Posen, Zang Toi, Chi Zhang, Eckhaus Latta, Nina Tiari, Hale Bob, Elie Madi, Rocky Gathercole, Philipp Plein

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week.

Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/


CAAFD
http://www.caafd.org/

From NYFW Fall 2017 Day 3: Taking the Heat for Georgine, and Not Regretting It … Taoray Wang Suits Up in Some Unexpected Ways

Some of the players on Day 3: Georgine, Francesca Liberatore, Paul Andrew, Lacoste, Adam Lippes, Jill Stuart, Taoray Wang, Creatures of the Wind, Romeo Hunte, Ryan Roche, Yuna Yang, Tibi, Son Juan Wan, Dion Lee, Banana Republic, Christian Siriano, Johnathan Simkhai, A Detacher, Simon Miller, Area, Mac Duggal, Julianna Bass, Sheguang Hu, Alexander Wang, Laurence & Chico, Mason Sylvester

BY VW

I am silently quoting Nelly:

It's getting hot in here, so hot, so take off all your clothes.

At Skylight Clarkson, where a number of Fall 2017 New York Fashion Week: The Shows are being staged, it is sweltering.

Alas, a thousand times alas, those responsible for temperature control did not take into account that all of the equipment necessary to make the warehouse operational would generate as much heat as that emanating from the hundreds of bodies also therein, therefore making it absolutely imperative to install air conditioning. Even though it is winter.

So everyone is overheated. I am especially so, squeezed in on a secondary front row of the Georgine show.

It's getting hot in here, so hot, so take off all your clothes.

From the Fall 2017 Georgine collection. Photo by VW.

I am not certain why this show is so crowded. Is it because designer Georgine Ratelband is inspired by famous hotels and the mythical hotels of song and film titles: The Ritz, The Bates Motel, Hotel California?

Perhaps, it is because the secret is out about the designer. That GR is quite the little craftsman. Or is it craftswoman. Craftsperson?

In any case, she can sew well or has the eye for detail to direct the seamstresses to so well. Yet, her craft goes deeper than that. She seems to possess an innate understanding of the characteristics of fabric.

This is dawning on me as I observe some dresses and skirts in what appears to be a lightweight silk or satin. Forgive me, I am unable to say which hotel they represent because I am too squashed in to consult the run of show (show program). Plus, I am trying to capture some decent images on my mobile phone.

What is apparent is that the designer understands that this particular fabric must be cut in a particular way to produce the undulating effect achieved when one is in transit. I should add that GR is not trying to reinvent the wheel; she merely gives it a fine polish.

That alone is worth one’s momentary discomfort.

TAORAY WANG

From the Taoray Fall 2017 collection. Photos from Getty Images.

DESIGNERS can't resist gender interplay: the idea of mixing and matching, comparing and contrasting, merging and marrying feminine and masculine shapes fabrics, etc.

This is the treatment, as it regards the suit's long history, that Taoray Wang designer Wang Tao recommends for her modern, professional woman. In this latest collection, the designer also further seals her reputation for craft and construction.

Meanwhile, she makes those aforesaid observations in expected ways. For instance, demure lace blouses are paired with rather bold-shouldered, assertive jackets.

Seamlessly, WT also takes that notion sideways a bit, creating winning silhouettes. More specifically, a manly burgundy jacket poured into an slightly undulating girlee black maxi skirt with a slit. An olive wrap dress that once upon a time was a trenchcoat is shortened, wrapped, bedazzled at the hem with asymmetry and firmly belted. A boatneck black lace top with panel down the front, simulating a tie included.

On deck today, Day 4: Victoria Beckham, Asia Fashion Collective, Public School, Rosetta Getty,Tome, Elizabeth Kennedy, Chloe Gosselin, Hood By Air, Sies Marjan, Tracy Reese, Diane von Furstenberg, Beaufille, J. Crew, Sandy Liang, Lujin Zhang, Vivienne Hu, Leanne Marshall, Jenny Packham, Prabal Gurung, Gypsy Sport, Altuzarra, Custo Barcelona, Marcel Ostertag, Namilia, Anthony Rubio, Madeline Stuart, Ana Ono, Temraza, House of Byfield, Saku New York, Willfredo Gerardo, MonnaLisa, Wanda Beauchamp, Lulu Et Gigi, Emma Viedma, Rene & Immanuel Clothing, Vasilije Kovacev

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week.

Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/

CAAFD
http://www.caafd.org/

From NYFW Fall 2017 Day 2: Hakan Akkaya’s Black Series Is Wonderful, Marvelous, Beautiful! ... Taking It to the Streets and More Refined Locales on Tour With Concept Korea Designers ... Get-Ups Assume Shape-Shifting Forms at Telfar ... Raul Penaranda’s Dame Will Take You Out

From the Raul Penaranda Fall 2017 collection. Photo courtesy of Hakan Akkaya.

Some of the players on Day 2: Dan Liu, Calvin Klein Collection, Theatre Products, Oday Shakar, Lanyu, Kate Spade New York, Yigal Azrouel, Hakan Akkaya, Tanya Taylor, Hellessy, LRS New York, Ohlin/D, Milly, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Concept Korea, Cushnie et Ochs, Pamella Roland, Linder, Sachin & Babi, Chromat, Jason Wu, RTA, Vaishali S, Ellena De Luna, Dair by Odair, Club Monaco, Monse, Nicole Miller, Jeremy Scott, TELFAR

BY VW

TURKISH designer Hakan Akkaya delivered a mesmerizing mediation on black in a collection called “Freedom!”

Elegant: Men’s sequin tunic under a dinner jacket.
Inspired: Men’s plunging off-the-shoulder jumpsuit, revealing jacket, shirt and tie
Arresting: Women’s blouse with bell-shaped pleated sleeves and bare back.

And on and on and on … More later

CONCEPT KOREA

THE three designers deliver everything from reimagined cocktail frocks to streetwear turned sideways.

TELFAR

DECONSTRUCTED streetwear turned any which way but loose; fur motifs.

RAUL PENARANDA

THESE dames are dressed to kill.

On deck today, Day 3: Georgine, Francesca Liberatore, Paul Andrew, Lacoste, Adam Lippes, Jill Stuart, Taoray Wang, Creatures of the Wind, Romeo Hunte, Ryan Roche, Yuna Yang, Tibi, Son Juan Wan, Dion Lee, Banana Republic, Christian Siriano, Johnathan Simkhai, A Detacher, Simon Miller, Area, Mac Duggal, Julianna Bass, Sheguang Hu, Alexander Wang, Laurence & Chico, Mason Sylvester

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week.

Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/

CAAFD
http://www.caafd.org/

From NYFW Fall 2017 Day 1: Snow Can’t Keep Down a Good Show … Looking Back: Nicholas K, Desigual and Tadashi Shoji; Looking Sraight Ahead With Zero Regrets, Michael Costello’s Vixen; All in One Day’s Work at Style Fashion Week – in a Garden

From the Nicholas K Fall 2017 Collection. Photos by VW.

Some of the players on Day 1: Nicholas K, BY. Bonnie Young, Erin Fetherston, Colovos, Cinq a Sept, Haus Alkire, Brock Collectin, Helen Yarmak, Tadashi Shoji, Malan Breton, Michael Ravel, Creatures of Comfort, Honee, Shalini Couture, Patricia Michaels, Commatted, David Tupaz, Mario de la Torre, Zoan Ash, Adrian Alicea, ADEAM, Noon by Noor, M the Movement, Ydamys Simo, Richard Hallmarq, Wangliling, Ulla Johnson, OAK, Adam Selman, Thakoon, Rag & Bone, La Perla, Eddie Eddie by Billy Tommy, Rich by Richie Rich
–
BY VW

IN one respect, fashion is like theater: the show(s) must go on.

And they did, on Day 1 of New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2017. Various shows on the New York Fashion Week: The Shows roster as well as Style Fashion Week, one day this season, sent out emails, assuring one and all that the shows were going on, snow and travel difficulties, be damned.

It was a good start for those who ventured out.

NICHOLAS K

MY overall impression watching Nicholas K FW17 is that the whole is greater than the parts.

The Kunz siblings are the creative forces behind the label and have a love jones for layering. It is perhaps the strongest tool in their wheelhouse. This is particularly relevant in this latest collection, which through the prism of recent, troubling events, revisits the 90s and their "promise" of a united global village.

The most visible nod to 90s style is the series of sweaters and shirts wrapped around the waist. A most clever usage of this motif is in the form of built-in shirtsleeves at the waist of a couple of dresses, doing the job of belts. Quite an aesthetic victory.

A series of engaging maxi dresses – some off the shoulder – in various fabrics, also hints at the 90s, as do military-style jackets, which enjoyed a resurgence during that decade. Ditto for the massive hoop earring the models are rocking in one ear like the around the way girls back in the day. Red ensembles are remarkable for being conspicuous in a largely taupe/tan palette.

Meanwhile, layers abound: blouse/shirt, pants, jacket; shirt, dress/skirt jacket, etc. Like the Borg, rather formidable as a unit. Disconnect a silk taupe blouse from the whole, however and it is not so impactful.

DESIGUAL

From the Desigual Fall 2017 Collection. Photos by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images.

In a collection called EXTRAORDINARY, the Spanish label pays homage to a woman inhabiting subcultures of the 60s through 80s. Of course, a woman living and dressing outside of the box.

The brighter the color, the better. Prints (florals), bring them on, as many as you dare. And why not wear dark skirts and on the legs wear white tights overlaid with fishnet tights. Speaking of tights, they should be floral, too. A bonus if they resemble a piece of impressionist art. As for that little denim sleeveless dress, it wants a black lace top underneath and some bedazzling in the form of a floral pattern.

Here is a woman to admire and emulate.

TADASHI SHOJI

A woman who may join others raising their voices against some injustice or dancing the night away in some swanky nightclub. She will be turned out rather baroquely in fine brocade and shining, sparkling. And velvet. An exquisite creature.

MICHEAL COSTELLO

A devil sporting a huge ‘fro and got up in a killer white dress/gowns revealing much, concealing little. Those silver sequin numbers seemed grafted onto her. A showstopper, she doesn’t have a care in the world, least of all you, you, you and you.

On deck today, Day 2: Dan Liu, Calvin Klein Collection, Theatre Products, Oday Shakar, Lanyu, Kate Spade New York, Yigal Azrouel, Hakan Akkaya, Tanya Taylor, Hellessy, LRS New York, Ohlin/D, Milly, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Concept Korea, Cushnie et Ochs, Pamella Roland, Linder, Sachin & Babi, Chromat, Jason Wu, RTA, Vaishali S, Ellena De Luna, Dair by Odair, Club Monaco, Monse, Nicole Miller, Jeremy Scott, TELFAR,

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week.

Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/;

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork;

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/;

CAAFD
http://www.caafd.org/

NYFW: Riffing About Spring 2017 Trends, Which Leads to Pondering Tales of Maria's Bag and the Sustainability Informing Nicholas K. Elsewhere, the Notion of Jeans for Refugees Is a Capital Idea! Finally, Salivating Over Zang Toi on (Papyrus) Paper.

Top model Coco Mitchell with the Domina Mini satchel from the Spring 2017 Maria's Bag collection. Photo from BFA.

BY VW

“WHAT are the trends for Spring 2017?,” a woman at this reporter’s gym asked a few days ago, speaking of New York Fashion Week?

It took a few beats for my mind to make the necessary pivot and inform her that NYFW had not yet started. But here we are today, on Day 1 of NYFW, which now encompasses New York Fashion Week: The Shows, Style Fashion Week, FTL Moda, Style 360 and several other outfits showcasing mainly frocks in a cooperative style.

Does one still think of trends? Of course, one supposes, though we currently exist in a cultural moment of laissez faire, at least in the West, particularly in the United States.

In any case, by Day 3, trends may begin to emerge, particularly around color and accents. My personal focus tends toward the craft, craftiness, wiliness and wizardy (or lack thereof) of each collection, especially if it is tied to a point of reference.

These jeans are on the auction block. Photo from Jeans for Refugees website.

A few days ago Maria’s Bag showed its SS2017 collection, a sophomore effort. It is a fetching handbag collection created by model and former Miss Guatemala, Alida Boer. There was no particular inspiration or trend other than the use of the intricate Guatemalen huipil fabric on every handbag and the few ponchos, the work of Guatemalan women AB seeks to empower.

Like a Persian rug, each print tells a story steeped in Mayan culture and folklore. The overall effect is rather attractive, particularly the green/blue/purple mosaic, if a tad overdone and costumey on occasion.

At Nicholas K,which by tradition the last few years has opened NYFW: The Shows, the siblings Kunz find inspiration from a protected desert region in Jordan. The collection will include garments made from sustainable materials.

All things considered, taupe and white can be depended upon; dark colors may may tend toward khaki or iterations of red. Layers will abound and fluidity is a certainty.

Jeans for Refugees (also today) makes its bow in New York after Berlin. The trend is to make the world a better place. On the catwalk, jeans donated by 100 celebrities – and painted by multimedia artist Johny Dar – from the worlds of fashion, film, musi and art. Among the donors are Benicio del Toro, Elle McPherson, Elton John, Lars von Trier, Pedro Almodovar, Twiggy and Usher.

The jeans are being auctioned online during the 100-day period from 22 July to 30 October. All one hundred pairs will be exhibited 24-30 Oct. at London's Saatchi Gallery. Proceeds will go to the International Rescue Committee, which helps refugees around the world (http://www.catawiki.com/jeansforrefugees; http://www.rescue.org) ...

From the Zang Toi Collection at Papyrus. Photo from Papyrus website.

One of the most anticipated shows each fashion week is that of Zang Toi, owing to the mastery of this shy craftsman and the breathtaking manifestations of his themes. It is customary for applause to erupt throughout his shows. Alas, anticipation must fester until Tuesday, 13 Sept. or Day 6.

Interestingly, the most burning question concerning Spring 2017 is not what Toi will show. The collection is themed “Glorious Giverny Garden” (as in Monet's).

What inquiring minds want to know is whether the coveted ZT gift bag will contain any Zang Toi-themed Papyrus product. A couple weeks or so ago, the design house became the first (along with Lela Rose) to collaborate with a greeting card company to create a custom collection based on runway looks.

A tunic from the Maria's Bag Spring 2017 collection. Photo from BFA.

“It was love at first sight with Team Papyrus,” the Malaysian designer said. “The chemistry was so strong during our first meeting, I knew we would have a lot of fun creating a fabulous collection of greeting cards that both Papyrus and House of Toi fans will adore.”

ZT has produced 24 cards and two boxed notes. They feature such accents as beading, textured fabrics and feathers. The collection has been available online, but this week will also be available at all New York City Papyrus stores and select retailers. (http://www.papyrusonline.com/collection/zang-toi
)

Asked point blank whether any Papyrus will be in the bag, ZT’s cheeky spokesman kept it cryptic: “We will find out on Sept 13th,:).”

Ah, the mystery of fashion.
From the Zang Toi Collection at Papyrus. Photo from Papyrus website.



On deck today, Day 1: Malan Breton, K. Rashae, Nikki Lund, Dextrose, Eddie Eddie by Billy Ton, Nicholas K, Noon by Noor, Charles Youssef, Ohlin/D,Brock Collection, Nora Gardner, Creatures of the Wind, Timon Weiland, Hellessy, Marissa Webb, Creatures of Comfort, Supima Ninth Annual Design Competition, Jeffrey Taylor, Jeans for Refugees, Josie Natori, Ulla Johnson, Adam Selman, Thakoon, Phelan, Yuna Yang, TELFAR, Archana Kochhar, LO Live OnTop, Harx4, Marlene H Couture, Responsive Textiles, Sonja Tafelmeier, Shock and Awww, Chasa IDT, Dress Haute, Fllumae, LeVico, Vaishali

Visit us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week. Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style 360
http://www.style360nyfw.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/

FTL Moda
http://www.ftlshows.com

Fashion Gallery
http://www.fgnyfw.com

NYFW: The Shows FW2016 Day 7: Naeem Khan Making Wishes Come True; Art Hearts Fashion: Mimi Tran, 7 Crash, House of Byfield

Naeem Khan and Trinity Moran, in a dress from the designer, also make the final wallk after his FW2016 show on Wednesday, 17 Feb. at The Arc at Moynihan Station. Photos by Courtney Thompson for @Modaobsession.

From the FW2016 Naeem Khan collection.

BY COURTNEY THOMPSON

Some of the players on Day 6: Michael Kors, Nicopanda, Naeem Khan, Newbark, Biphu Mohapatra, DKNY, Clover Canyon, Theory, Anna Sui, Delpozo, Proenza Schouler, Boss Women, Cynthia Rowley, Marchesa, Art Hearts Fashion: House of Byfield, 7 Crash, Mimi Tran

INTRICATE beading, lace and flapper-like fringe dominate the Naeem Khan FW 2016 collection.

Aside from the designer’s fine work, his good deed impressed the crowd at his runway show. When he came out to greet well-wishers, he was accompanied by Trinity Moran. She was wearing a dress on which the two collaborated.

From the FW2016 Naeem Khan collection.

It was a dream of the 11-year-old’s, who was aided by the Make-A-Wish Foundation in realizing it, to walk the runway during New York Fashion Week: The Shows. She has a life-threatening illness.

No doubt, the caring NK showed through this simple gesture has solidified his reputation as the kindest man in fashion.

Courtney Thompson can be reached at @Modaobsession

Art Hearts Fashion, MIMI TRAN

Art Hearts Fashion, 7 CRASH

Art Hearts Fashion, HOUSE OF BYFIELD

On deck today, LAST Day: Ralph Lauren, CFDA Incubator, J. Mendel, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Kithe Brewster

Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.

NYFW: The Shows FW2016 Day 6: Ralph Rucci's Triumphant Return With RR331; Chiara Boni La Petite Robe's Pretty Dresses; Hiromi Asai Has a Kimona Just for You, You, You ... ; A Young Lady's Alternative to Bebe aka Georgine

From FW16 RR331, the new line by Ralph Rucci. Photos by V. W.

BY V.W.
Some of the players on Day 6: Tory Burch, Chiari Boni La Petite Robe, Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, Rodarte, Angel Sanchez, Ohne Titel, Alice + Olivia, Gypsy Sport, A.P.C, Coach, Dennis Basso, Tenby, Beaufille, Carmen Marc Valvo, Simon Miller, RR 331 Narciso Rodriguez, Oscar de la Renta, Miu Miu Tales 11, B. Michael, Brandon Maxwell

THE “RR” in RR331 could stand for rest and relaxed, for that is how the man himself looks tonight. It is nearing 9 and toward the end of the presentation. He is sitting on a windowsill, chatting with a friend.

And perhaps another, “R” for relieved. One doesn’t associate Ralph Rucci with that emotion. He has a persistent air of self-possession that declares, “it’s handled.”

When you have not shown a collection in a few seasons, however, when you quit your own company and go underground, then return to a scene of so many triumphs with a new label (including Philip Tracey hats and Jean Michel Cazaba over-the-knee-boots), then you are within your rights to feel and seem relieved. You are also savvy to pay attention to scale as it regards the size of the collection and format in which to debut it.

And so it is at the Merchantile Annex on Tuesday, 16 Feb., Day 6 of New York Fashion Week: The Shows FW2016. The master craftsman is presenting his new collection to longtime friend and supporters, as well as a few sundry others in this intimate setting.

RR331 FW2016 can be described as ready-to-wear with flourishes of couture. After all, those seasons at the Paris couture shows are a hard habit to break.

As soft-spoken Patrick McDonald asserts when asked whether he’s attended any other shows this week, “No. I don’t need to. This is the best show of the week.”

Of course some would argue the point, considering that Oscar de la Renta and Carmen Marc Valvo are also on today’s schedule.

Yet one understands the sentiments behind PM’s remarks. In presenting a collection slightly larger than capsule-size that leans heavily on black, with a dash of taupe and brown, RR also conducts another master class on how to make clothes.

Others milling about the space echo PMcD’s declaration. These are folk who have seen it all. They are not easily fooled by copious embellishment and other tricks employed to disguise poor and questionable workmanship.

The name, RR331, pays homage to RR's first label, CHADO, also the name of the 331 very splendid steps of a Japanese tea ceremony. In introducing RR331, RR gives unto the world a visual presentation on how to sew well, creating perfectly straight lines and seams. How to use just the right satin, thus allowing the brown-taupe gown to hang insouciantly. Illustrating, seemingly effortless, the intricacy and artistry involved in creating really fine clothes.

Manipulating the folds on a black dress into a shape that suggests petals on a flower. Corralling the collar on the fur (is that mink?) coat into an engaging and attractive lapel. Looks easy. Not easy.

It is fitting that the clothes are hanging in an art gallery space because they are art. (In fact, the designer's own paintings are hanging on the walls). Palpable is the love, care and respect for the form (art and body).

Further, how civilized to place the garments on the backs of conventional mannequins instead of the backs of live ones who should not be compelled to stand for two hours, often in ridiculous footwear with perhaps only one break.

Exquisite hors d'oeuvres and Champagne (not $12 sparkling wine) are being passed around to sustain pleased and impressed viewers.

This evening is a wonderful and welcome throwback to the good old days before the rise of the tents and the dawn of New Media.

Welcome back, Ralph. Long live RR331!

HIROMI ASAI

CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE

From the FW2016 Chiara Boni La Petite Robe collection. Photos by V.W.

GEORGINE

On deck today, Day 7: Michael Kors, Nicopanda, Naeem Khan, Newbark, Biphu Mohapatra, DKNY, Clover Canyon, Theory, Anna Sui, Delpozo, Proenza Schouler, Boss Women, Cynthia Rowley, Marchesa

Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.