Some of the players on Day 1: Nicholas K, BY. Bonnie Young, Erin Fetherston, Colovos, Cinq a Sept, Haus Alkire, Brock Collectin, Helen Yarmak, Tadashi Shoji, Malan Breton, Michael Ravel, Creatures of Comfort, Honee, Shalini Couture, Patricia Michaels, Commatted, David Tupaz, Mario de la Torre, Zoan Ash, Adrian Alicea, ADEAM, Noon by Noor, M the Movement, Ydamys Simo, Richard Hallmarq, Wangliling, Ulla Johnson, OAK, Adam Selman, Thakoon, Rag & Bone, La Perla, Eddie Eddie by Billy Tommy, Rich by Richie Rich
IN one respect, fashion is like theater: the show(s) must go on.
And they did, on Day 1 of New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2017. Various shows on the New York Fashion Week: The Shows roster as well as Style Fashion Week, one day this season, sent out emails, assuring one and all that the shows were going on, snow and travel difficulties, be damned.
It was a good start for those who ventured out.
MY overall impression watching Nicholas K FW17 is that the whole is greater than the parts.
The Kunz siblings are the creative forces behind the label and have a love jones for layering. It is perhaps the strongest tool in their wheelhouse. This is particularly relevant in this latest collection, which through the prism of recent, troubling events, revisits the 90s and their "promise" of a united global village.
The most visible nod to 90s style is the series of sweaters and shirts wrapped around the waist. A most clever usage of this motif is in the form of built-in shirtsleeves at the waist of a couple of dresses, doing the job of belts. Quite an aesthetic victory.
A series of engaging maxi dresses – some off the shoulder – in various fabrics, also hints at the 90s, as do military-style jackets, which enjoyed a resurgence during that decade. Ditto for the massive hoop earring the models are rocking in one ear like the around the way girls back in the day. Red ensembles are remarkable for being conspicuous in a largely taupe/tan palette.
Meanwhile, layers abound: blouse/shirt, pants, jacket; shirt, dress/skirt jacket, etc. Like the Borg, rather formidable as a unit. Disconnect a silk taupe blouse from the whole, however and it is not so impactful.
DESIGUALFrom the Desigual Fall 2017 Collection. Photos by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images.
In a collection called EXTRAORDINARY, the Spanish label pays homage to a woman inhabiting subcultures of the 60s through 80s. Of course, a woman living and dressing outside of the box.
The brighter the color, the better. Prints (florals), bring them on, as many as you dare. And why not wear dark skirts and on the legs wear white tights overlaid with fishnet tights. Speaking of tights, they should be floral, too. A bonus if they resemble a piece of impressionist art. As for that little denim sleeveless dress, it wants a black lace top underneath and some bedazzling in the form of a floral pattern.
Here is a woman to admire and emulate.
A woman who may join others raising their voices against some injustice or dancing the night away in some swanky nightclub. She will be turned out rather baroquely in fine brocade and shining, sparkling. And velvet. An exquisite creature.
A devil sporting a huge ‘fro and got up in a killer white dress/gowns revealing much, concealing little. Those silver sequin numbers seemed grafted onto her. A showstopper, she doesn’t have a care in the world, least of all you, you, you and you.
On deck today, Day 2: Dan Liu, Calvin Klein Collection, Theatre Products, Oday Shakar, Lanyu, Kate Spade New York, Yigal Azrouel, Hakan Akkaya, Tanya Taylor, Hellessy, LRS New York, Ohlin/D, Milly, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Concept Korea, Cushnie et Ochs, Pamella Roland, Linder, Sachin & Babi, Chromat, Jason Wu, RTA, Vaishali S, Ellena De Luna, Dair by Odair, Club Monaco, Monse, Nicole Miller, Jeremy Scott, TELFAR,
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Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:
New York Fashion Week: The Shows
Style Fashion Week
Art Hearts Fashion