Naeem Khan and Trinity Moran, in a dress from the designer, also make the final wallk after his FW2016 show on Wednesday, 17 Feb. at The Arc at Moynihan Station. Photos by Courtney Thompson for @Modaobsession.
From the FW2016 Naeem Khan collection.
BY COURTNEY THOMPSON
Some of the players on Day 6: Michael Kors, Nicopanda, Naeem Khan, Newbark, Biphu Mohapatra, DKNY, Clover Canyon, Theory, Anna Sui, Delpozo, Proenza Schouler, Boss Women, Cynthia Rowley, Marchesa, Art Hearts Fashion: House of Byfield, 7 Crash, Mimi Tran
INTRICATE beading, lace and flapper-like fringe dominate the Naeem Khan FW 2016 collection.
Aside from the designer’s fine work, his good deed impressed the crowd at his runway show. When he came out to greet well-wishers, he was accompanied by Trinity Moran. She was wearing a dress on which the two collaborated.
From the FW2016 Naeem Khan collection.
It was a dream of the 11-year-old’s, who was aided by the Make-A-Wish Foundation in realizing it, to walk the runway during New York Fashion Week: The Shows. She has a life-threatening illness.
No doubt, the caring NK showed through this simple gesture has solidified his reputation as the kindest man in fashion.
Courtney Thompson can be reached at @Modaobsession
Art Hearts Fashion, MIMI TRAN
Art Hearts Fashion, 7 CRASH
Art Hearts Fashion, HOUSE OF BYFIELD
On deck today, LAST Day: Ralph Lauren, CFDA Incubator, J. Mendel, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Kithe Brewster
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
From FW16 RR331, the new line by Ralph Rucci. Photos by V. W.
BY V.W.
Some of the players on Day 6: Tory Burch, Chiari Boni La Petite Robe, Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, Rodarte, Angel Sanchez, Ohne Titel, Alice + Olivia, Gypsy Sport, A.P.C, Coach, Dennis Basso, Tenby, Beaufille, Carmen Marc Valvo, Simon Miller, RR 331 Narciso Rodriguez, Oscar de la Renta, Miu Miu Tales 11, B. Michael, Brandon Maxwell
THE “RR” in RR331 could stand for rest and relaxed, for that is how the man himself looks tonight. It is nearing 9 and toward the end of the presentation. He is sitting on a windowsill, chatting with a friend.
And perhaps another, “R” for relieved. One doesn’t associate Ralph Rucci with that emotion. He has a persistent air of self-possession that declares, “it’s handled.”
When you have not shown a collection in a few seasons, however, when you quit your own company and go underground, then return to a scene of so many triumphs with a new label (including Philip Tracey hats and Jean Michel Cazaba over-the-knee-boots), then you are within your rights to feel and seem relieved. You are also savvy to pay attention to scale as it regards the size of the collection and format in which to debut it.
And so it is at the Merchantile Annex on Tuesday, 16 Feb., Day 6 of New York Fashion Week: The Shows FW2016. The master craftsman is presenting his new collection to longtime friend and supporters, as well as a few sundry others in this intimate setting.
RR331 FW2016 can be described as ready-to-wear with flourishes of couture. After all, those seasons at the Paris couture shows are a hard habit to break.
As soft-spoken Patrick McDonald asserts when asked whether he’s attended any other shows this week, “No. I don’t need to. This is the best show of the week.”
Of course some would argue the point, considering that Oscar de la Renta and Carmen Marc Valvo are also on today’s schedule.
Yet one understands the sentiments behind PM’s remarks. In presenting a collection slightly larger than capsule-size that leans heavily on black, with a dash of taupe and brown, RR also conducts another master class on how to make clothes.
Others milling about the space echo PMcD’s declaration. These are folk who have seen it all. They are not easily fooled by copious embellishment and other tricks employed to disguise poor and questionable workmanship.
The name, RR331, pays homage to RR's first label, CHADO, also the name of the 331 very splendid steps of a Japanese tea ceremony. In introducing RR331, RR gives unto the world a visual presentation on how to sew well, creating perfectly straight lines and seams. How to use just the right satin, thus allowing the brown-taupe gown to hang insouciantly. Illustrating, seemingly effortless, the intricacy and artistry involved in creating really fine clothes.
Manipulating the folds on a black dress into a shape that suggests petals on a flower. Corralling the collar on the fur (is that mink?) coat into an engaging and attractive lapel. Looks easy. Not easy.
It is fitting that the clothes are hanging in an art gallery space because they are art. (In fact, the designer's own paintings are hanging on the walls). Palpable is the love, care and respect for the form (art and body).
Further, how civilized to place the garments on the backs of conventional mannequins instead of the backs of live ones who should not be compelled to stand for two hours, often in ridiculous footwear with perhaps only one break.
Exquisite hors d'oeuvres and Champagne (not $12 sparkling wine) are being passed around to sustain pleased and impressed viewers.
This evening is a wonderful and welcome throwback to the good old days before the rise of the tents and the dawn of New Media.
Welcome back, Ralph. Long live RR331!
HIROMI ASAI
CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE
From the FW2016 Chiara Boni La Petite Robe collection. Photos by V.W.
GEORGINE
On deck today, Day 7: Michael Kors, Nicopanda, Naeem Khan, Newbark, Biphu Mohapatra, DKNY, Clover Canyon, Theory, Anna Sui, Delpozo, Proenza Schouler, Boss Women, Cynthia Rowley, Marchesa
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
From the FW2016 Libertine collection. Photos by V.W.
BY V.W.
Some of the players on Day 5: FTL Moda, The Row, Hilfiger Collection, Nolcha Shows: Ones to Watch, Lela Rose, Anna K, Karen Walker, Rosie Assoulin, Soufflesong, Jeremy Scott, Mayet, Mansur Gavriel, Thom Browne, Landeros New York, Libertine, Rag & Bone, Zac Posen, Threeasfour, Eckhaus Latta
QUITE a bit to say about Day 5 of New York Fashion Week: The Shows. Still processing. For now, enjoy the photos and videos.
LIBERTINE
From the FW2016 Libertine collection. Photos by V.W.
ZAC POSEN
From the Zac Posen FW2016 collection. Photos by Courtney Thompson for @Modaobsession
KAREN WALKER
From the Karen Walker FW2016 collection. Photos by Courtney Thompson for @Modaobsession
Art Hearts Fashion, PINEDA COVALIN
From the Pineda Covalin FW2016 collection. Photos by V.W.
Art Hearts Fashion, WILLFREDO GERARDO
From the Willfredo Gerardo FW2016 collection. Photos by V.W.
Art Hearts Fashion, GREGORIO SANCHEZ
From the Gregorio Sanchez FW collection. Photos by V.W
On deck today, Day 6: Tory Burch, Chiari Boni La Petite Robe, Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, Rodarte, Angel Sanchez, Ohne Titel, Alice + Olivia, Gypsy Sport, A.P.C, Coach, Dennis Basso, Tenby, Beaufille, Carmen Marc Valvo, Simon Miller, Narciso Rodriguez, Oscar de la Renta, Miu Miu Tales 11, B. Michael, Brandon Maxwell
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
Some of the players on Day 4: FTL Moda, Vivienne Hu, Tome, Public School, Noon by Noor, Derek Lam, Hood by Air, Tracy Reese, LaQuan Smith, J Crew, Sally LaPointe, Brooks Brothers, Scotch & Soda, Jonathan Simkhai, Malan Breton, Ydamys Simo + J&Y Leather Creations, Edun, Nancy Vuu, Anthony Rubio Designs, Bradelis, Diane Von Furstenberg, Ground Zero, Katya Leonovich, Pret-a-Porter
TYPICALLY, a KATYA Leonovich collection starts with one of her paintings.
Looks from the Katya Leonovich new men's line. Photo by V.W.
For FW2016, the inspiration came from a trip to Bermuda, which informed her “HurriKane” oil-on-canvas series of paintings. The paintings, in turn, inform the collection.
A quick note, KL also debuts menswear this season.
It is sometimes unexpected, for one is not surprised when prints with a swirl pattern are pressed into service. Here, they are serviceable, not mindblowing. The white netted maxi vest may have been left on the shelf.
An interesting twist is the use of fur to suggest destruction, objects that have been splintered.
A sense of utter destruction is particularly a nice stroke in the use of ostrich feathers on a one-shoulder
sleeveless gown.
NANCY VUU
From the FW2016 Nancy Vuu collection. Photos by V.W.
A confession: This writer does not give much thought to children’s and teen’s wear, much less evening and couturesque wear for this demographic.
But the younguns do require clothing for special occasions, no?. To that end, the likes of Nancy Vuu and others of her ilk.
Since debuting her line at the 2014 edition of Style Fashion Week in Los Angeles, the designer has taken off, garnering international notice for her creativity and craft.
The FW2016 collection, shown at Gotham Hall, is accessible and age-appropriate. It is attractive, albeit occasionally a bit too costumey.
It might have benefitted from a little less pink, too. Still, the little ones in the family can shine at the gala or black tie-event.
BRADELIS NEW YORK
From the FW2016 Bradelis New York collection. Photos by V.W.
IF lingerie maker, Bradelis New York, is going for simplicity for FW2016, then it has succeeded.
The luxury brand consistently delivers dependable, mainly no-fuss undergarments. Still, a few more frills is wanted.
Save for the hot pink bra and thong as well as the white bra-bikini sets, the latest line is a bit sleepy.
ANTHONY RUBIO DESIGNS
From the FW2016 Anthony Rubio Designs collection. Photos by V.W.
NO doubt, when Anthony Rubio decided to design for dogs, there were snickers emanating from some corners. “Now, that is ridiculous, is it not,” one can almost hear the derision.
It is misplaced, considering that pet care is a multibillionaire industry. Among other things, pet parents like to dress their children, especially for dress-up affairs.
According to AR, his late beloved Chihuahua, Bandit – which he rescued and adopted – liked wearing clothes. That is how this FIT grad started with doggie designs.
In short order, the pet philanthropist was designing for friends, then strangers. And New York Fashion Week would come calling, making history in the process. AR was the first designer of pet clothes to show during fashion seek.
His one-of-a-kind of designs have gained AR, who references John Galliano and Thierry Mugler, among others, admirers and clients the world over.
On deck today, Day 5: FTL Moda, The Row, Hilfiger Collection, Nolcha Shows: Ones to Watch, Lela Rose, Anna K, Karen Walker, Rosie Assoulin, Soufflesong, Jeremy Scott, Mayet, Mansur Gavriel, Thom Browne, Landeros New York, Libertine, Rag & Bone, Zac Posen, Threeasfour, Eckhaus Latta
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
Naeem Khan and Trinity Moran, in a dress from the designer, also make the final wallk after his FW2016 show on Wednesday, 17 Feb. at The Arc at Moynihan Station. Photos by Courtney Thompson for @Modaobsession.
From the FW2016 Naeem Khan collection.
From the FW2016 Naeem Khan collection.
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