From NYFW SPRING 2017 Day 7: Seen From the Proper Perspective, Georgine Is Rather Special ... At Adrienne Landau, Be Prepared to Be Colorfully Empowered ... Xuly Bet Designer Lamine Badian Kouyate Owns the Runway Twice Over

BY VW

Some of the players from Day 7: Xuly Bet, Calvin Luo, Naeem Khan, Bibhu Mohapatra, Georgine, Anna Sui, Marchesa, Art Hearts Fashion, RISD Apparel, Runa Ray, Michael Kors, Delpozo, Kimora Lee Simmons, Kuho, Assembly New York & Raquel Allegra, LaQuan Smith, Addition ELLE Presents Holiday 2016 RTW +Ashley Graham Lingerie Fashion Show, Derek Lam, Adrienne Landau, Flagpole, Theory, Anastasiia Ivanova, Alison Lou, Elizabeth Kennedy

From the Spring 2017 Georgine collection. Photos by VW.

PERSPECTIVE. It is important, no?

Of course, it is. Case in point is the Georgine Spring 2017 collection. Viewed from the second row about 10 feet from the mouth of the runway with a poor sightline in the form of the frontrow, it looks like a competent affair. Not so special, not so ordinary. Competent.

Viewed from the vantage point of the photographer's pit, however, it is a rather splendid body of work. At the Georgine afterparty last night at Fig & Olive (Meatpacking District location), where the joint was jumpin', the show played in a continuous loop. From the vantage point of the photographer's pit.

One can properly appreciate the silver T-shirt dress, baby doll dress with lace at the hem and others in some sort of silk-satin that is reminiscent of a waterfall. Lots of movement but controlled movement. The fabric is either cut or sewn in a way that commands it to keep its form instead of gesticulating. Looks easy, not easy.

The collection is inspired by the style of designer Georgine Ratelband's mother. The contents of her closet and the occasion(s) on which she wore a trenchcoat, sequinned dress, lace dress and so on.

In homage to this occasion dressing, each outfit corresponds to an area or street in New York City where it is suggested it be worn.

The series of elegant plaid, satiny-sequinny gowns, for instance, are for Bond Street, Chinatown and Houston Street.

For an outing in Alphabet City, the black gown with a beautiful spider web pattern done in sequins. Also cleverly replicated on a pinstipe skirt and pinstripe dress.

Watching the show on the screen with the mother of Chris Roshia, GR's design partner, offers yet another perspective. "That dress is very fragile," she says of the black sleeveless gown with a gorgeous silver hour-glass pattern down the front and zipper-length on the back.

That pattern is actually a series of safety pins. They'll keep, mom. Ditto for those on the pink copped top.

She appreciates the fact that the red dress with netting cutout at the waist barely skims the body. It is suspended just so, away from the body, a small gravity-defying feat. Mother's favorite outfit: the lace turtleneck, sleeveless fire-engine red dress. It's a showstopper.

Many of the outfits are anchored by fishnet socks and Dr. Martens. Chic, indeed the little black lace, sequinned T-shirt dress, the short sleeve trenchcoat/print dress ensemble, the silver skirt and aforesaid pink cropped top and so on.

"I think it's the best collection we've done," CR says later when the two of us Monday-morning quarterback the show.

ADRIENNE LANDAU

"Through this collection, we wanted to present a fun, bright, and colorful future. These clothes were meant for anyone and meant to empower everyone," Adrienne Landau says in the run of show (show program) about her Spring 2017 collection, a meditation on "diversity" and "equality."

Continues AL: "Unity through diversity is the key message for this season."

One would be hardpressed not to feel empowered in any of this body armor. Close your eyes and point. Good choice, the marabou feather coat in mint, multi-colored applique tulle mini dress and applique tulle flared pant.

Fur. Feathers. Sequins. Lemon-yellow, orange-orange. Metaphors for identity and equality: black, white, pink and blue ... Formidable.

XULY BET

SPORTSWEAR, after-5, evening wear, headwraps, sunglasses and sandals in bodacious African prints. Obnoxious, I-dare-you-to-pair-me-this-way print combinations ...

Xuly Bet designer Lamine Badian Kouyaté turns the runway on its ear. Fun. Festive. Fantastic.

On deck today, Last Day: CFDA Incubator, Marc Jacobs, Kuho, Tim Coppens and Under Armour Present UAS Collection 01, Kristin Cavallari Emerald DUV Jewelry + Chinese Laundry Fashion Presentation, Alex Vinash, Tahor Group #TLVRunwayNYC

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week. Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style 360
http://www.style360nyfw.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/

FTL Moda
http://www.ftlshows.com

Fashion Gallery
http://www.fgnyfw.com

NYFW: The Shows FW2016 Day 6: Ralph Rucci's Triumphant Return With RR331; Chiara Boni La Petite Robe's Pretty Dresses; Hiromi Asai Has a Kimona Just for You, You, You ... ; A Young Lady's Alternative to Bebe aka Georgine

From FW16 RR331, the new line by Ralph Rucci. Photos by V. W.

BY V.W.
Some of the players on Day 6: Tory Burch, Chiari Boni La Petite Robe, Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, Rodarte, Angel Sanchez, Ohne Titel, Alice + Olivia, Gypsy Sport, A.P.C, Coach, Dennis Basso, Tenby, Beaufille, Carmen Marc Valvo, Simon Miller, RR 331 Narciso Rodriguez, Oscar de la Renta, Miu Miu Tales 11, B. Michael, Brandon Maxwell

THE “RR” in RR331 could stand for rest and relaxed, for that is how the man himself looks tonight. It is nearing 9 and toward the end of the presentation. He is sitting on a windowsill, chatting with a friend.

And perhaps another, “R” for relieved. One doesn’t associate Ralph Rucci with that emotion. He has a persistent air of self-possession that declares, “it’s handled.”

When you have not shown a collection in a few seasons, however, when you quit your own company and go underground, then return to a scene of so many triumphs with a new label (including Philip Tracey hats and Jean Michel Cazaba over-the-knee-boots), then you are within your rights to feel and seem relieved. You are also savvy to pay attention to scale as it regards the size of the collection and format in which to debut it.

And so it is at the Merchantile Annex on Tuesday, 16 Feb., Day 6 of New York Fashion Week: The Shows FW2016. The master craftsman is presenting his new collection to longtime friend and supporters, as well as a few sundry others in this intimate setting.

RR331 FW2016 can be described as ready-to-wear with flourishes of couture. After all, those seasons at the Paris couture shows are a hard habit to break.

As soft-spoken Patrick McDonald asserts when asked whether he’s attended any other shows this week, “No. I don’t need to. This is the best show of the week.”

Of course some would argue the point, considering that Oscar de la Renta and Carmen Marc Valvo are also on today’s schedule.

Yet one understands the sentiments behind PM’s remarks. In presenting a collection slightly larger than capsule-size that leans heavily on black, with a dash of taupe and brown, RR also conducts another master class on how to make clothes.

Others milling about the space echo PMcD’s declaration. These are folk who have seen it all. They are not easily fooled by copious embellishment and other tricks employed to disguise poor and questionable workmanship.

The name, RR331, pays homage to RR's first label, CHADO, also the name of the 331 very splendid steps of a Japanese tea ceremony. In introducing RR331, RR gives unto the world a visual presentation on how to sew well, creating perfectly straight lines and seams. How to use just the right satin, thus allowing the brown-taupe gown to hang insouciantly. Illustrating, seemingly effortless, the intricacy and artistry involved in creating really fine clothes.

Manipulating the folds on a black dress into a shape that suggests petals on a flower. Corralling the collar on the fur (is that mink?) coat into an engaging and attractive lapel. Looks easy. Not easy.

It is fitting that the clothes are hanging in an art gallery space because they are art. (In fact, the designer's own paintings are hanging on the walls). Palpable is the love, care and respect for the form (art and body).

Further, how civilized to place the garments on the backs of conventional mannequins instead of the backs of live ones who should not be compelled to stand for two hours, often in ridiculous footwear with perhaps only one break.

Exquisite hors d'oeuvres and Champagne (not $12 sparkling wine) are being passed around to sustain pleased and impressed viewers.

This evening is a wonderful and welcome throwback to the good old days before the rise of the tents and the dawn of New Media.

Welcome back, Ralph. Long live RR331!

HIROMI ASAI

CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE

From the FW2016 Chiara Boni La Petite Robe collection. Photos by V.W.

GEORGINE

On deck today, Day 7: Michael Kors, Nicopanda, Naeem Khan, Newbark, Biphu Mohapatra, DKNY, Clover Canyon, Theory, Anna Sui, Delpozo, Proenza Schouler, Boss Women, Cynthia Rowley, Marchesa

Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.