Thursday, September 15, 2016

From NYFW SPRING 2017 Day 7: Seen From the Proper Perspective, Georgine Is Rather Special ... At Adrienne Landau, Be Prepared to Be Colorfully Empowered ... Xuly Bet Designer Lamine Badian Kouyate Owns the Runway Twice Over


Some of the players from Day 7: Xuly Bet, Calvin Luo, Naeem Khan, Bibhu Mohapatra, Georgine, Anna Sui, Marchesa, Art Hearts Fashion, RISD Apparel, Runa Ray, Michael Kors, Delpozo, Kimora Lee Simmons, Kuho, Assembly New York & Raquel Allegra, LaQuan Smith, Addition ELLE Presents Holiday 2016 RTW +Ashley Graham Lingerie Fashion Show, Derek Lam, Adrienne Landau, Flagpole, Theory, Anastasiia Ivanova, Alison Lou, Elizabeth Kennedy

From the Spring 2017 Georgine collection. Photos by VW.

PERSPECTIVE. It is important, no?

Of course, it is. Case in point is the Georgine Spring 2017 collection. Viewed from the second row about 10 feet from the mouth of the runway with a poor sightline in the form of the frontrow, it looks like a competent affair. Not so special, not so ordinary. Competent.

Viewed from the vantage point of the photographer's pit, however, it is a rather splendid body of work. At the Georgine afterparty last night at Fig & Olive (Meatpacking District location), where the joint was jumpin', the show played in a continuous loop. From the vantage point of the photographer's pit.

One can properly appreciate the silver T-shirt dress, baby doll dress with lace at the hem and others in some sort of silk-satin that is reminiscent of a waterfall. Lots of movement but controlled movement. The fabric is either cut or sewn in a way that commands it to keep its form instead of gesticulating. Looks easy, not easy.

The collection is inspired by the style of designer Georgine Ratelband's mother. The contents of her closet and the occasion(s) on which she wore a trenchcoat, sequinned dress, lace dress and so on.

In homage to this occasion dressing, each outfit corresponds to an area or street in New York City where it is suggested it be worn.

The series of elegant plaid, satiny-sequinny gowns, for instance, are for Bond Street, Chinatown and Houston Street.

For an outing in Alphabet City, the black gown with a beautiful spider web pattern done in sequins. Also cleverly replicated on a pinstipe skirt and pinstripe dress.

Watching the show on the screen with the mother of Chris Roshia, GR's design partner, offers yet another perspective. "That dress is very fragile," she says of the black sleeveless gown with a gorgeous silver hour-glass pattern down the front and zipper-length on the back.

That pattern is actually a series of safety pins. They'll keep, mom. Ditto for those on the pink copped top.

She appreciates the fact that the red dress with netting cutout at the waist barely skims the body. It is suspended just so, away from the body, a small gravity-defying feat. Mother's favorite outfit: the lace turtleneck, sleeveless fire-engine red dress. It's a showstopper.

Many of the outfits are anchored by fishnet socks and Dr. Martens. Chic, indeed the little black lace, sequinned T-shirt dress, the short sleeve trenchcoat/print dress ensemble, the silver skirt and aforesaid pink cropped top and so on.

"I think it's the best collection we've done," CR says later when the two of us Monday-morning quarterback the show.


"Through this collection, we wanted to present a fun, bright, and colorful future. These clothes were meant for anyone and meant to empower everyone," Adrienne Landau says in the run of show (show program) about her Spring 2017 collection, a meditation on "diversity" and "equality."

Continues AL: "Unity through diversity is the key message for this season."

One would be hardpressed not to feel empowered in any of this body armor. Close your eyes and point. Good choice, the marabou feather coat in mint, multi-colored applique tulle mini dress and applique tulle flared pant.

Fur. Feathers. Sequins. Lemon-yellow, orange-orange. Metaphors for identity and equality: black, white, pink and blue ... Formidable.


SPORTSWEAR, after-5, evening wear, headwraps, sunglasses and sandals in bodacious African prints. Obnoxious, I-dare-you-to-pair-me-this-way print combinations ...

Xuly Bet designer Lamine Badian Kouyaté turns the runway on its ear. Fun. Festive. Fantastic.

On deck today, Last Day: CFDA Incubator, Marc Jacobs, Kuho, Tim Coppens and Under Armour Present UAS Collection 01, Kristin Cavallari Emerald DUV Jewelry + Chinese Laundry Fashion Presentation, Alex Vinash, Tahor Group #TLVRunwayNYC

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week. Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows

Style 360

Style Fashion Week

Art Hearts Fashion

FTL Moda

Fashion Gallery

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