From NYFW Fall 2017 DAY 4: Basking in the Glorious Light with Custo Barcelona … Saku Espouses Some Concepts That Want More Contemplation … If Lujin Zhang Is The Future, It is Bright Indeed … Marcel Ostertag’s Woman Has Something to Say

Some of the players on Day 4: Victoria Beckham, Public School, Rosetta Getty,Tome, Elizabeth Kennedy, Chloe Gosselin, Hood By Air, Sies Marjan, Tracy Reese, Diane von Furstenberg, Beaufille, J. Crew, Sandy Liang, Lujin Zhang, Vivienne Hu, Leanne Marshall, Jenny Packham, Prabal Gurung, Gypsy Sport, Altuzarra,Custo Barcelona, Marcel Ostertag,Namilia, Anthony Rubio, Madeline Stuart, Ana Ono, Temraza, House of Byfield, Saku New York, Willfredo Gerardo, MonnaLisa, Wanda Beauchamp, Lulu Et Gigi, Emma Viedma, Rene & Immanuel Clothing, Vasilije Kovacev

BY VW

AFTER a few seasons of dragging her feet, someone is now doing a happy dance, for Custo Barcelona is back and has turned the light way up for Fall 2017.

From the Fall 2017 Custo Barcelona collection. Photos by VW.

Meanwhile, emerging label Saku shows some promise (the flounces are adorable), but the collection is too elementary (for instance, bedazzle those pants a bit more) and lacks enough oomph (simple can also tend toward boring). Emerged out of Parsons School of Design a few months ago was Lujin Zhang. She knows her way around asymmetry, deconstruction and repurposing.

Elsewhere, Marcel Ostertag is among numerous designers this season at New York Fashion Week thinking about various protests movements spawned by recent shocking, troubling events. He has women on the move/march; they appear dressed appropriately for the occasion.

And that’s the way some of it was on Day 4 … More shortly; enjoy the photos for now.

CUSTO BARCELONA

SAKU

From the Saku Fall 2017 collection. Photos by VW.

MARCEL OSTERTAG

From the Marcel Ostertag Fall 2017 collection. Photos courtesy of Marcel Ostertag.

On deck today, DAY 5: The Row, Carolina Herrera, Rosie Assoulin, Zimmerman, Lela Rose, Alice & Olivia, Katty Xiomara, Proenza Schouler, Yeohlee, Zadig & Voltaire, Elley Orem, Miranda Kurtishi, Wicked Things Boutique, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Libertine, Mara Hoffman, Frame Denim, Veronica Beard, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Oscar de la Renta, Official Made in Italy x CAAFD Cocktail Presentation, Fleur Kelinza, Vavci, Resty Lagare, Zac Posen, Zang Toi, Chi Zhang, Eckhaus Latta, Nina Tiari, Hale Bob, Elie Madi, Rocky Gathercole, Philipp Plein

Follow us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week.

Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows
http://www.fashionweek.com/

Style Fashion Week
http://www.style360fashionweek.com/newyork

Art Hearts Fashion
http://www.artheartsfashion.com/


CAAFD
http://www.caafd.org/

MBFW Day 4: Attention, Please. Class Is About to Start.

HEAD’S UP: It's Fashion Week, baby! Who's ready? We're ready! And we have a slight tweak to share. Of course, we still endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly&Co. witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. The tweak has been inspired by Twitter. The coverage will focus, as has become the custom, on what truly inspires or what is so painfully hideous that it is remarkable. However, we will tell that story in 50 words or less. Yes, 50. Or less. Ready? Let the games begin ...

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Band of Outsiders, Creatures of Comfort, Custo Barcelona, Delpozo, Designer's Review, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Edun, Emerson, Giulietta, Jeremy Lang, Joanna Mastroianni, Lela Rose, Mark McNairy New Amsterdam, Patrik Ervell, Ralph Rucci, Richard Seco, Thakoon, Threeasfour, Tracy Reese, Trina Turk, Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Tam, Y-3, Yigal Azrouel, Zac Posen

AS the week marches on the talent swells. A moment of the master class (Ralph Rucci, Custo Barcelona, Joanna Mastroianni) and stalwart veterans (Vivienne Tam, Tracy Reese, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY). It was a fine day.

Custo Barcelona

Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

A feminine side this season, most notable in chiffon and shifts and jackets with more construction. The signature print motif informs every stitch in varying degrees. Men are an afterthought. Annoyingly generic club music. Not the best stuff from Custo Dalmau, but some pretty good stuff, nevertheless. It's a print. - YOURS TRULY

Diane von Furstenberg

Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

THE collection is called Oasis. To that end, the fit of the clothes is loose and easy; the fabrics non-fussy and travel-ready like the jet-setter they attract. Colors more muted than bright. Innovative? No, but solid and eye-pleasing. With NAOMI bringing up the rear. - YOURS TRULY

Emerson
Photos by Neil Wolfson and Arun Nevader/Getty Images.

THE most interesting outfits are op art-oriented. Black and white and somewhat optically obnoxious but still eye-catching. Toward the end of the show, gowns have interesting, multi-tiered floral motifs. Large bouquets in the hair that kind of rock my world. The soundtrack is Ramones punk rock. It is a very youthful collection, wearable by no one older than 25. - NEIL WOLFSON

Joanna Mastroianni
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

ISN'T it a piece of heaven to witness a master crafter at work? Pay attention, students and designer wannabes. Take notes. Watch. Learn. (See the video at top). - YOURS TRULY

DKNY
Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

A retrospective, marking 25 years of the label. (The afterparty is tonight!). Streetwear, where it all started. Good memory lane stuff. It would have been really grew-vay if Donna Karan had pressed Naomi into service. And why not bring CHRISTY, LINDA and the rest of the gang, too. Fun! Yes! - YOURS TRULY

Tracy Reese
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

THRIFT shop chic. That's the notion that the mind keeps revisiting as this Afro Cuban-influenced tableau is presented. Nifty frocks a body can't find any and everywhere. Equally striking is the awkwardness of many of the models in trying to radiate sensuality and energy that supposedly infuses the collection. Acting classes. - YOURS TRULY

Trina Turk
Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

TOOK a big toke of Trina Turk. Easy-breezy California cool resortwear with floral motifs. Pure fun; little substance. Nothing grabs this eye. I am wearing a TT sports coat that no one seems to notice - not that I am an exhibitionist … Rock on, Trina. - NEIL WOLFSON

Y-3
Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

STREET cred provided by pulsing cacophony of eight percussionists and a little bit of everything. Black, white, ombre rainbow, muted camo, feather in her hair and fabulous basketball sneakers: blackest canvas and pure white sole. Yohji Yamamoto's drum solo finale. Yes, meaningless. Yes, excitement. - MARIE T. DRISCOLL

Zac Posen
Photos by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images.

BEAUTIFUL gowns (and a few dresses). Exquisite, really. For another age, not this shabby one. How else to describe them: rococo? Baroque? Yes! Soldier on, Zac. Hopefully, the Hollywood starlets will appreciate your hard work and wear it best. - YOURS TRULY

Ralph Rucci
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

FROM the program notes: 'It is very important to show what the human hand can do. Ralph Rucci, from the David Boatman film, 'Ralph Rucci: A Designer and His House'" … After the show, a standing ovation. Does that not say it all? - YOURS TRULY

On Deck today, Day 5: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Adam Lippes, Alice + Olivia, Araks, Assembly, Barbara Tfank, Carolina Herrera, Concept Korea, Czar by Cesar Galindo, Donna Karan New York, Falguni and Shane Peacock, Hache, Holmes & Yang, Karen Walker, Kaufmanfranco, Libertine, Maki Oh, Mathieu Mirano, Ohne Titel, Ovadia & Sons, Pamella Roland, Reem Acra, Rosie Assoulin, Theyskens' Theory, Thom Browne, Tim Coppens, Tommy Hilfiger, Tribune Standard, Victoria, Victoria Beckham, Zero + Maria Cornejoe

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Duro Olowu for JCP: Colors and Prnts Make Some Noise

THE colors jumped out at me, grabbed the lapels of my tweed coat, and implored me to take them and the bag they were covering with me. Red, orange, green, turquoise, navy, brown, white were all beseeching me in quiet, urgent tones.

I did as they bid, despite the fact that the handle and panels with which they were keeping company were faux leather. And then there was the faux snakeskin closure. The tote was so persuasive that a girl had to overlook these minor details. After all, life is a series of tradeoffs, is it not?

Two days later, two ladies were oohhing and ahhing over my tote. Of course, I gave them to know that the Duro Olowu creation would not be available until 1 March. They were momentarily deflated, but elated when I told them that it was only $50.

Yours Truly is jawing about Duro Olowu for JCP. The collection of apparel, accessories and home décor items, which is inspired by the London-based designer’s Spring 2013 collection (see video above), is now in JCPenney brick and mortars as well as http://www.jcp.com. You and you and you can shop to your heart’s delight. (And JCPenney can focus on something other than its spat with Macy's over Martha Stewart.)

It's all Duro Olowu for JCP: Sundress, necklace, sandals, vases, accent rugs and a certain tote that talks. Photos from Duro Olowu.

Has DO seen a print he did not like? Possibly, but one thinks not. The two titans of prints without doubt are Himself and one Custo Dalmau (the man behind Custo Barcelona). While DO is based in the UK, his heart is clearly still in his native Nigeria or somewhere in West Africa.

Just about every stitch, stone, pebble and pleat in Duro Olowu for JCP is infused with a bit of West Africa. Buyer, do be aware that there is a lot going on. JCP calls the collection a “riot of color.” True that, but it is the combination of bold colors and bodacious prints that takes each item to a place few can go and rest comfortably. Multiple colors and multiple prints – paisley, stripes, florals, turquoise, orange, pink, green – co-exist in peace and harmony rather than utter chaos, provoking a body to exclaim, “What was he thinking?!”

It is perfectly understandable that the Duro Olowu collection would be the cause of excitement.

Dear Readers, please note that your humble guide may not be the best one to speak about Duro Olowu for JCP. Simply put, I am a print fanatic who often mixes and matches as many as I can get away with – far more than the law of physics or the most relevant branch of science allows. I am a lawbreaker. To that end, if you do not like DO’s collection, do consider the source of all of this exuberance. That written, I am in good company (First Lady Michelle Obama)as it regards the designer's threads.

All disclaimers revealed – other than the fact that I met the designer and his collection at a smashing party and gifting suite during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York – the collection is eye-catching and arresting. And, and, and, it is far more affordable than anything he might show during London Fashion Week. In fact, the most costly item herein is the fetching carry-on bag with wheels ($90.) While nothing is sourced from the finest textiles available – impossible at these price points – everything is well-made. Do note that it is cheap but does not look cheap. This is not junk.

It seems that Duro Olowu has it covered from head to floor.

The second most costly item in Duro Olowu for JCP is the Turquoise-Gold Metallic Brocade Trench Coat ($75). At The Daily gifting suite that was set up at the Stone Rose Lounge in Time Warner Center, journalists and tastemakers were allowed two items. I also walked away with the coat, which DO gave me to know can be worn as a dress, too.

The coat/dress was one of the most popular items in the suite and went as fast as a scud missile. It pleases me to report that the wrinkles that so assaulted the coat after it spent several hours semi-balled up in my gift bag did make themselves very scarce after it was hung.

The Duro Olowu metallic brocade trench coat can play the part of a dress if necessary.

The coat/dress will likely be a popular seller along with the Abstract Leaf Print T-Strap Platform Sandals. The shoes complement every piece of apparel, proving that women don’t need a zillion pair and that DO was wearing his thinking caps as he was creating Duro Olowu for JCP, including coffee, mugs, vases, and writing paper. Merchandising, isn’t it wonderful!

DO pronounced himself “excited” about the partnership with JCPenney. And why shouldn’t he be?

Visit http://www.jcp.is/XUTlpq to learn more about Duro Olowu for JCP; visit http://www.duroolowu.com/ss13photos.html to learn more about the Duro Olowu Spring 2013 collection. Rx

MBFW Day 4: 'Beauty/Beast,' Custo Barcelona Style

HEAD’S UP: That turnaround between September and February always seems short. One is in the middle of the Yuletide season when the notice arrives about registering for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York! Well, here we are at Fall 2013 and a small change in the VEVLYN’S PEN approach to covering Fashion Week. We will still put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits. We will also continue to endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Now, for the changes. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” as we on 7 Feb. (http://www.vevlynspen.com/2013/02/mbfw-day-1-snapshot-todd-snyders.html). We will also comment on particular pieces from a collection that capture our imagination. Finally, at VEVLYN’S PEN, coverage may take the form of photos with comments underneath, including whether the picture subject tends toward a trend. How’s that? OK, off we go!

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): A DÉTACHER, BILLY REID, CARMEN MARC VALVO, CHADWICK BELL, CHARLOTTE RONSON, CUSHNIE ET OCHS, GREGORY PARKINSON, HELMUT LANG KATE SPADE NEW YORK, KATIE GALLAGHER, KELLY WEARSTLER, JASON WU, JENNI KAYNE, LYN DEVON, NICOLE MILLER, PIERRE BALMAIN, RAG & BONE, REBECCA MINKOFF, SALLY LAPOINTE, ST. JOHN, SUNO, TESS GIBERSON, THE ELDER STATESMAN, TOCCA, TOMMY HILFIGER, TRIBUNE STANDARD, YIGAL AZROUËL

IT’S never easy to describe a Custo Barcelona collection. It is no different for Fall 2013.

Custo Barcelona Beauty: And smartly dressed, too. Photos from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

That written, one word that comes to mind is massive – nearly 70 ensembles. Another is muted. Part of what accounts for the latter is that it references fall-winter when colors are more subdued. Another explanation could be that designer Custo Dalmau is informed by Nordic winters and the notion of “Beauty and the Beast.”

Of course, the women are the beauties, and the men … well. Nothing in the collection looks remotelyl beastly, however. In fact, Yours Truly sat throughout this show on Day 4 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York wearing a Cheshire cat grin. Indeed, I imagine that I must have had the look of the cat who ate the canary or an ill-fated mouse.(See video above).

After a second look early this a.m., my eyes saw nothing in this collection that they did not like. Do I need my head examined? Don't answer; it's a rhetorical question. Allow me a moment to reiterate what I have before asserted about Custo Barcelona: It is not for everyone. No doubt, there were more than a few people in the show scratching their heads, wondering whether CD needs his head examined.

Custo Barcelona Beast: What a nice coat!

At Custo Barcelona, the beast often takes the form of a men’s coat made of various patterns and shapes with a gray background – no doubt meant to evoke the Nordic terrain in deep winter. Perhaps, the snow has been swept away before a fresh snowfall or simply dots the landscape, as in the belted coat/jacket of diverse prints, distressed leather at shoulder and matching pants. Most of the men's jackets are belted and come with matching trousers.

The Custo Barcelona beauty is wearing fewer layers, though it is frigid out. Her back, belly and legs are sometimes exposed. Beauty is meant to be seen, is it not? The very first look on the runway – a sweater dress (or tunic, depending on the point of view of the wearer), with funnel turtleneck and skirt of brown-multi patchwork – set and kept the tone. Holding it down, too, is the modish purple-brown-black fur jacket/sweater and purple-brown-black patchwork dress ensemble.

For those who get Custo Barcelona, it is a beautiful thing.

Far more accessible is Diane von Furstenberg’s declaration that "Life is a party." The DVF party girl/woman is off to somewhere partyful in her black wrap dress with leather detail on the lapels. Also taking her to delightful destination is the "effortless glamour" that informs her coat in pink/black metallic snake coating with leather at cuffs. Underneath is a copper metallic liquid jersey collared top and high-waist skirt in gold/black metallic snake coating with black satin piping and sundry other details.

Dressed for the party at Diane von Furstenberg.

DVF is not reinventing the wheel; she is simply keeping it polished. It looks good; it comfortable, and it's dependable. Always dependable and many other wonderful things is Chado Ralph Rucci. While his fall collection does not have the super-duper wow factor that has marked some in recent seasons, it is still magnificent. And it gets the distinction of the best show of the day.

When a frock is crafted so exquisitely using the best materials available by a master, it can be nothing less than magnificent or some other superlative. It deserves the applause it receives as was the case when a series of minks in assorted hues advanced at a leisurely pace down the runway. The designer gives what his program notes state: "refinement, beauty and tranquility in the world of fashion.”

Thank you, CRR.

A little something from the Chado Ralph Rucci craft factory.

On Deck today, Day 5: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, ALICE + OLIVIA, ASSEMBLY, BARBARA TFANK, BELSTAFFICA HQ, BETSEY JOHNSON, BROOD, CAROLINA HERRERA, DONNA KARAN NEW YORK, DL1961, HERNAN LANDER, ICB BY PRABAL GURUNG, JIL SANDER NAVY, KAELEN, KAREN WALKER, KAUFMAN FRANCO, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, MARC BY MARC JACOBS, MATHIEU MIRANO, OHNE TITEL, PAMELLA ROLAND, REEM ACRA, THE ROW, THEYSKENS' THEORY, THOM BROWNE, TIM COPPENS, WES GORDON, YEOHLEE, ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 4 MBFW: Custo Barcelona Brings It. Wow!

HEAD’S UP: Can you believe it's Fashion Week already? That respite between September and February seems very short, especially since press registration notices started arriving during the crush of the holiday shopping season. In any case, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York has returned for the Fall 2012 edition. At VEVLYN'S PEN, we are going to do things slightly different this season. I still endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

The change will be most apparent in show coverage. Where before I was doing a sort of "best of," I will tweak that this season and focus on what truly inspires me. Why the change? Simply put, I have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires me, I will tell you so and tell you why. Let the games begin ...

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Anna Francesca, Carmen Marc Valvo, Custo Barcelona, Danielle Kallmeyer, Designer's Premier, Diane von Furstenberg, Derek Lam, DKNY, Edun, Eighteenth, Falguni & Shane Peacock, Geoffrey Mac, Imitation, Jeremy Laing, Joy Cioci, Kevork Kiledjian, Lela Rose, Lorena Sarbu, Mathieu Mirano, Simon Spurr, Thakoon, Tracy Reese, Zac Posen, Timo Weiland, Tommy Hilfiger, Y-3

ONCE the Wow! started it would not stop until the last. It took Custo Barcelona to get the word out of my mouth.

Custo Barcelona pays tribute to visionaries and other artistic types. Photo courtesy of Custo Barcelona.

BEST OVERALL SHOW – One knows what to expect from Custo Barcelona: a panoply of prints. Always, however, is the question of how will designer Custo Dalmau merge them. A disclaimer: Custo Barcelona is not for the faint. These are not materials for the masses, and thank God for that. For fall 2012, homage is paid to visionaries and the pioneers of creativity. The result is a brilliant patchwork of wool both, geometric-shaped and graphic boiled, as well as leather, metallic patterns, technical finished fabrics and some others. The men are dressed a tad more demurely than normal; a few suits are so accessible that JCPenney might reach out. As usual the ladies have as much on as they can carry.

Visionary colors include red, black green, taupe, wine, purple, brown, copper. Under the pattern rubric are houndstooth, plaid, paisley and whatnot. As usual, it is a lot for the eye to take in, yet it does and the effort doesn’t show. (Study closely the ensem pictured at right). By the by, don’t be mislead by the word “patchwork,” craft is woven into every piece, from the most rococo to the most restained. Either CD is a good editor or he seeks counsel from one, for his myriad moving parts flirt inexorably with the danger of overkill without ever quite going there. (Enjoy the video above).

OTHER MENTIONABLES – Turn the attention away from Tracy Reese for a few seasons and return to find that the coquettish schoolgirl that she references has developed some harder edges. Since moving from the heartland to city center our darlingl has replaced her bookish reading glasses with mannish sunglasses. The over-the-knee socks and floral dresses have been moved to the back of the closet. Within easy reach are metallic patterns with cut velvet and bare legs. She’s wearing pants these days, too. In case the parents visit, though, she can dig up the orange/purple dress with black-scalloped sleeves. Mommy and daddy’s little girl is growing up.

From the look of things DKNY is rebelling against slouchiness. Photo by Michael Dills/Getty Images.

Diane von Furstenburg and her partner in design, Yvan Mispelaere, imagine their DVF woman stepping out for a rendez-vous. That is, “a meeting with suspense and expectation,” DVF explains. She is dressed for the occasion in a confident brown off-the-shoulder wool jersey layered dress. Because a shroud of mystery hangs over the proceedings, she might choose the sleeveless black crepe satin dress w/folds and dropped-waist leather belt. On her arms opera gloves, which she likes with any number of rendez-vous rags. Depending on her mood or that of the weather, she could summon a bright color like citrus (halter top), gold (tapered pants). DVF offers a well-crafted, accessible collection. While not strenuously creative, it is clever.

Ladies, in a black mood for fall? Then set the GPS for DKNY. In these times of revolution, the designer is feeling a little poetic rebellion, beat style. Yet no woman of Jack Kerouac’s or Amiri Baraka’s showed at a slam got up in any threads as city slicker sleek&chic as the black turtleneck and high-waisted croc flared skirt or either one of the furry ensems in the wine group. They are emblematic of a collection that skews heavily toward self-possession and sophistication.

Mathieu Mirano & Joy Cioci
Photos by Astrid Stawiarz and Craig Barritt/Getty Images.

Carmen Marc Valvo & Derek Lam
Photos by Craig Barritt and Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images.

Lorena Sarbu & Lela Rose
Photos by Craig Barritt and Mike Coppola/Getty Images.

DKNY & Falguni & Shane Peacock
Photos by Michael Dills and Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Diane von Furstenberg & Tommy Hilfiger
Photos by Frazer Harrison and Michael Dills/Getty Images.

Tracy Reese & Custo Barcelona
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images and Courtesy of Custo Barcelona.

On Deck today, Day 5: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alice + Olivia, Betsey Johnson, Bibhu Mohapatra, Carlos Miele, Carolina Herrera, Chris Benz, Donna Karan, Emilio Cavallini, Irina Shabayeva, Jenny Packham, Karen Walker, Leather Japan 2012, Marc Jacobs, Negarin, Preen, Prete & Bruno, Reem Acra, Theyskens' Theory, Titel1, Thom Browne, Viktor Luna, Yeohlee, Zang Toi, Zero+Maria Cornejo

Visit http://http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.