MBFW Day 4: 'Beauty/Beast,' Custo Barcelona Style

HEAD’S UP: That turnaround between September and February always seems short. One is in the middle of the Yuletide season when the notice arrives about registering for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York! Well, here we are at Fall 2013 and a small change in the VEVLYN’S PEN approach to covering Fashion Week. We will still put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits. We will also continue to endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Now, for the changes. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” as we on 7 Feb. (http://www.vevlynspen.com/2013/02/mbfw-day-1-snapshot-todd-snyders.html). We will also comment on particular pieces from a collection that capture our imagination. Finally, at VEVLYN’S PEN, coverage may take the form of photos with comments underneath, including whether the picture subject tends toward a trend. How’s that? OK, off we go!

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): A DÉTACHER, BILLY REID, CARMEN MARC VALVO, CHADWICK BELL, CHARLOTTE RONSON, CUSHNIE ET OCHS, GREGORY PARKINSON, HELMUT LANG KATE SPADE NEW YORK, KATIE GALLAGHER, KELLY WEARSTLER, JASON WU, JENNI KAYNE, LYN DEVON, NICOLE MILLER, PIERRE BALMAIN, RAG & BONE, REBECCA MINKOFF, SALLY LAPOINTE, ST. JOHN, SUNO, TESS GIBERSON, THE ELDER STATESMAN, TOCCA, TOMMY HILFIGER, TRIBUNE STANDARD, YIGAL AZROUËL

IT’S never easy to describe a Custo Barcelona collection. It is no different for Fall 2013.

Custo Barcelona Beauty: And smartly dressed, too. Photos from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

That written, one word that comes to mind is massive – nearly 70 ensembles. Another is muted. Part of what accounts for the latter is that it references fall-winter when colors are more subdued. Another explanation could be that designer Custo Dalmau is informed by Nordic winters and the notion of “Beauty and the Beast.”

Of course, the women are the beauties, and the men … well. Nothing in the collection looks remotelyl beastly, however. In fact, Yours Truly sat throughout this show on Day 4 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York wearing a Cheshire cat grin. Indeed, I imagine that I must have had the look of the cat who ate the canary or an ill-fated mouse.(See video above).

After a second look early this a.m., my eyes saw nothing in this collection that they did not like. Do I need my head examined? Don't answer; it's a rhetorical question. Allow me a moment to reiterate what I have before asserted about Custo Barcelona: It is not for everyone. No doubt, there were more than a few people in the show scratching their heads, wondering whether CD needs his head examined.

Custo Barcelona Beast: What a nice coat!

At Custo Barcelona, the beast often takes the form of a men’s coat made of various patterns and shapes with a gray background – no doubt meant to evoke the Nordic terrain in deep winter. Perhaps, the snow has been swept away before a fresh snowfall or simply dots the landscape, as in the belted coat/jacket of diverse prints, distressed leather at shoulder and matching pants. Most of the men's jackets are belted and come with matching trousers.

The Custo Barcelona beauty is wearing fewer layers, though it is frigid out. Her back, belly and legs are sometimes exposed. Beauty is meant to be seen, is it not? The very first look on the runway – a sweater dress (or tunic, depending on the point of view of the wearer), with funnel turtleneck and skirt of brown-multi patchwork – set and kept the tone. Holding it down, too, is the modish purple-brown-black fur jacket/sweater and purple-brown-black patchwork dress ensemble.

For those who get Custo Barcelona, it is a beautiful thing.

Far more accessible is Diane von Furstenberg’s declaration that "Life is a party." The DVF party girl/woman is off to somewhere partyful in her black wrap dress with leather detail on the lapels. Also taking her to delightful destination is the "effortless glamour" that informs her coat in pink/black metallic snake coating with leather at cuffs. Underneath is a copper metallic liquid jersey collared top and high-waist skirt in gold/black metallic snake coating with black satin piping and sundry other details.

Dressed for the party at Diane von Furstenberg.

DVF is not reinventing the wheel; she is simply keeping it polished. It looks good; it comfortable, and it's dependable. Always dependable and many other wonderful things is Chado Ralph Rucci. While his fall collection does not have the super-duper wow factor that has marked some in recent seasons, it is still magnificent. And it gets the distinction of the best show of the day.

When a frock is crafted so exquisitely using the best materials available by a master, it can be nothing less than magnificent or some other superlative. It deserves the applause it receives as was the case when a series of minks in assorted hues advanced at a leisurely pace down the runway. The designer gives what his program notes state: "refinement, beauty and tranquility in the world of fashion.”

Thank you, CRR.

A little something from the Chado Ralph Rucci craft factory.

On Deck today, Day 5: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, ALICE + OLIVIA, ASSEMBLY, BARBARA TFANK, BELSTAFFICA HQ, BETSEY JOHNSON, BROOD, CAROLINA HERRERA, DONNA KARAN NEW YORK, DL1961, HERNAN LANDER, ICB BY PRABAL GURUNG, JIL SANDER NAVY, KAELEN, KAREN WALKER, KAUFMAN FRANCO, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, MARC BY MARC JACOBS, MATHIEU MIRANO, OHNE TITEL, PAMELLA ROLAND, REEM ACRA, THE ROW, THEYSKENS' THEORY, THOM BROWNE, TIM COPPENS, WES GORDON, YEOHLEE, ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

MBFW Day 4: The Custo Chado Carmen Zac & Zang Show

HEAD’S UP: Continuing the approach we adopted commencing with the Fall 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, VEVLYN'S PEN will put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway, rather than a sort of “best of the lot, even if it’s not that good.” Why the change? Simply put, we have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires, we will tell you so and tell you why. We still endeavor, however, to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Bespoken, Lela Rose, Tracy Reese, Erickson Beamon, Custo Barcelona, Diane von Furstenberg, Carmen Marc Valvo, Y-3, Timo Weiland, Zang Toi, Zac Posen, David Tlale, Chado Ralph Rucci, Emerson, DKNY, Designer’s Collective, Edwing D'Angelo, Anna Francesca, Blanc de Chine

SPRING is energizing and inspirational. It has a way of stirring us, shaking us out of the winter doldrums – stripping away layers, commanding a clearing of every area of our lives, not just our windows and closets.

And that brings the conversation around to fashion designers. They, too, are inspired by spring. No doubt, that is a significant reason why collections being shown on runways, catwalks, pushcarts and scaffolding around Manhattan during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week are leaving certain folks a little breathless, with a smile and a sigh. Hear that ... aaaahhhh!!

A bit of transcendence from the Spring-Summer David Tlale collection. Photo by Yours Truly.

In February, it was not until around Day 5 that the collections for Fall 2012 began to look like something. Understandable to an extent. Designers and their respective villages were coming off the holidays and hoping for a swift end to winter. Perhaps they were a bit spent, which accounts for the sluggishness of some of the collections.

Fast forward to September when everybody has been enjoying summer, a few too-hot days notwithstanding, and the creative juices are flowing like rapids. Many Spring-Summer 2013 collections have a joie de vivre and suggest a bright, rosy future. That’s a very good thing at a moment when the world economy is in the doldrums, excepting a very few places.

Yesterday, was a good day, a really good day, for fashion in New York. It was a bit out of the ordinary in that it featured both a pride of old lions (Chado Ralph Rucci [see video above], Carmen Marc Valvo, Custo Barcelona, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY) and young cats (Zang Toi, Zac Posen ), as well as an up and comer (David Tlale) from the part of the world that gave birth to human kind. Indeed, it was a good, good day.

It was also a day of easy “best ofs,” which Yours Truly in the interest of time will address in pictures (below, with a one sentence blurb explaining why) and a promise to return with more details later.

Paris and Nicky Hilton mixing with the regular folk at the Pepsi Lounge at Lincoln Center. Photo by Daralyn Jay.

SIGHTING ROYALE: What could (temporarily) curtail the feeding frenzy at the Prosecco and Diet Pepsi cocktails open bar in the Pepsi-sponsored courtyard lounge at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week on Sunday? More of a who – their royal highnesses of fashion celebrity, socialites Paris and Nicky Hilton. The hotel heiresses braved the milling throng to be interviewed in what was formerly a quiet corner. After conducting their business, seemingly oblivious to the dozens of cell/mobile phone paparazzi, the sisters Hilton beat a retreat to their next destination. – BY DARALYN JAY

On Deck today, Day 5: Norisol Ferrari, Joy Cioci, Carolina Herrera, Carlos Miele, Mark McNairym, Farah Angsana, Marimekko, Donna Karan New York, Angel Sanchez, Reem Acra, Gilded Age, Chris Benz, Joanna Mastroianni, Mathieu Mirano, Strut, Reem Acra, alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet, Karen Walker, Angel Sanchez

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 4 Pictorial/Best ofs
Overall Show: Chado Ralph Rucci
His p.r. says it best: meticulous workmanship. Photos from here downward courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Old School Craft: Carmen Marc Valvo
The designer showed his elegant and sophisticated collection in a building in the Garment District, an area that once upon a time was the venue for virtually all of the New York shows.

Use of Prints: Custo Barcelona
It ain't easy to wrangle into a cohesive whole five to seven different prints and not look CRAZY!

Presentation: Erickson Beamon
"Who Are You?" is the question and an attempt to answer it takes into account stationary spectator-filled bleachers, as well as mobile, female model-bearing pushcarts and tuxedo-clad men who may or may be models, who may or may not be drivers.

When Women Were Dames:  Zac Posen
The gowns effortless capture the zeitgeist following one of the great wars.

Vision/When Women Were Ladies:  Zang Toi
This woman has a rendevous and is dressed for it, right down to her silk stockings.

Day 4 NYFW: All the Hues Are Fit to Print

Custo Barcelona has myriad prints for Spring 2012 but they never become boring. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

HEAD’S UP: I repeat, it is officially a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. It should go without saying, but it shan’t – this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because a body can’t be everywhere. But, of course, depend on one’s best effort. Drum roll, please …

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Anne Francesca, Custo Barcelona, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Edun, Jen Kao, Jeremy Laing, Jil Sander Navy, Kelly Wearstler, L.A.M.B., The Lake & Stars, Lela Rose, Thakoon, Timo Weiland, Tommy Hilfiger, Tracy Reese, Tribune Standard, Victoria Beckham, Y-3, Zac Posen

SOME big guns came out to do battle yesterday at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2012, which continues much in the way of a fine wine.

BEST OVERALL SHOW – How does Custo Barcelona do it season after season after season after season? That is, how does designer Custo Dalmau present a massive collection of blindingly bright prints for men and women in seemingly incongruous combinations without seeming monotonous? How does he conjure up such a paella? The outfits should scream overkill, over the top, way too much, tone it down. Yet they don’t.

For Spring 2012, Custo Barcelona is “tripolar” - in which three runway looks are divided into three ascending groups, each with its own unique theme; effectively creating a spectacular runway show with triple the personality.

The show lived up to its pr. Regardless of the category, the color scheme at Custo Barcelona is actually more subdued than in past seasons but the prints are no less awesome. The collection is even more inventive because it adds newer elements such as graphics in the “dual” section and in the “mirame” section that is marked by feminine, graphic pieces created using 3-D techniques.

Jen Kao's imagination is working at full throttle for Spring 2012, too. More on that shortly. (Photo by Mike Coppola/Getty Images.

While many and sundry prints define most ensembles, a few feature only one or two prints. Case in point is the the black&gray window pane print shorts and trousers and jackets that are solid gray on one side and black&gray print with sold black stripe on the other. They are in the androgynous dual section. This collection is also more tailored (a men’s suit in coral/ocean blue/burgundy print in the “kaleidoscopio” section and several shifts for women). Who expects such workmanship from Custo Barcelona? The answer is that anyone who sees a show. In defense of those with myopia, the prints are such a sensory overload (gorgeous one-shoulder tunic with tie a neck in mirame section) that any other marks of workmanship are overlooked. Perhaps it is to CD’s credit that there are more muted prints for spring. All the more to notice the artistry.

A PRODIGAL RETURNS AND IS BETTER FOR IT – Absence truly does make the heart grow fonder. With Diane von Furstenberg behind them, many were looking with great anticipation/enthusiasm to Zac Posen’s show. A year in Paris, where one can only hope he got the understanding he complained that he wasn’t getting a home, has done ZP good. Here is a more restrained, mature version. (Ditto for Gwen Stefani’s L.A.M.B.). He’s more thoughtful in his choices, too. The collection he showed at Avery Fisher Hall is evocative of Old Hollywood glamour. Exhibit A is the silk beige gown with a massive v-neck capped sleeves, fitted dropped waist and feathers that cleverly begin right below the widest part of the hip. Deborah Kerr might have worn such a frock. Many of the gowns feature such esquisite neck/bodie treatments as ruching, darting draping.

Diane von Furstenberg likes floral print combinations for Spring 2012. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

A Grecian-style spaghetti strap gown in teal with subtle ruching on the corset speaks to quiet glamour. For the naughty-little-good-girl set that helped launch ZC into the fashion stratosphere is a black mermaid gown that he showed toward the end. Sleeveless and black, it has strategically place darting that cascades into a tulle train. The word many today would use to describe it is “fierce." In the collection, too, are a couple of suits and several dresses. A b&w print dress with a cinched waist and off-the-shoulder caplike sleeves is a pretty little thing. However, it needs to be pulled up a few inches to provide decent coverage for the bosom.

BEST USE OF PRINTS – Diane von Furstenberg titled her laidback, optimistic Spring 2012 show “Beginnings.” Like Custo Barcelona, it is heavy on clever and colorful floral print combinations. However, DVF merits notice for her print work because it stands out in area where she does not normally specialize in such depth. Sometimes the prints may feature one color combination such as a v-neck dress with subtle ruching ending in a tie at the waist. It is a rather engaging tableau of three different b&w florals. Another dress or shirt/dress combo that ties off-center is the backdrop for a floral print mélange of lavendar/white, b&w, red/white, orange/white. The skirt has a split, revealing nearly a foot of flesh above the knee. The prints are really quite wonderful.

In the mix at DVF, too, are a few solid jackets, no doubt for the woman who does not go in for the frilliness associated with florals. As serviceable as they are the jackets (shown with Bermuda shorts) are a touch out of place in such a relaxed milieu, talking shop when everyone else just wants to have a few martinis and a lot of fun. Also in the solid category is a one-shoulder toga-style dress in a brilliant shade of coral – a popular hue for spring.

L.A.M.B. for Spring 2012 is more grownup but still has strong sense of fun. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

BEST PATRIOTIC GESTURE – After Diane von Furstenberg’s thrilling show she and one of her lieutenants stepped onto the runway to the strains of Nina Simone’s “Feeling Good.” DVF was bearing a wide smile and nearly a dozen American flags. She hugged several people, including Valentino and handed out the little flags to various people on her front row. It was a moment that tugged at the heartstrings on the 10th anniversary of September 11, a most somber day in the United Sates of America. Contrary to popular belief, even fashion has a heart (and not doubt a soul, if not a sole:o) … More from Day 4 shortly.

On deck today, Day 5: Jenny Packman, Callula Lilibelle, Carolina Herrera, Carlos Miele, Rebecca Minkoff, Pamella Roland, Donna Karan New York, Vlov_ Qingqing Wu, Bebe, Yeohlee, Norman Ambrose, Betsey Johnson, Jad Ghandour, Perry Ellis, Edite Showroom designers

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ and to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and to see live and taped streams of the shows.

Day 4 NYFW: He's Gotta Be Him

For Fall 2011, Custo Barcelona started with some simple things, overalls/jumpsuit below, before reverting to form with more elaborate creations, left. Photos from Getty Images.

HEAD’S UP: It’s now a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. This go round Yours Truly has a wingwoman in the person of Dame Francesca Simon. Even with two of us, though, we really, really can’t be everywhere. But we will be where something is happening and will keep you in the loop. Drum roll, please …

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Behnaz Sarafpour, Bensoni, Calvin Klein Collection Men’s, Carmen Marc Valvo, Cushnie et Ochs, Custo Barcelona, Cynthia Steffe, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Duro Olowu, Gregory Parkinson, Lela Rose, Malandrino, Max Azria, Moncler Grenoble, Preen, Romas by Linda Rowe Thomas, Thakoon, Timo Weiland, Tommy Hilfiger, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, VPL, Y-3, Zang Toi

BY YOURS TRULY, VEVLYN WRIGHT

BEST IN SHOW – The little boy was walking down a path and he came across a rattlesnake. The rattlesnake was getting old.

He asked, "Please little boy, can you take me to the top of the mountain? I hope to see the sunset one last time before I die."

The little boy answered, "No, Mr. Rattlesnake. If I pick you up, you'll bite me and I'll die."

The rattlesnake said, "No, I promise. I won't bite you. Just please take me up to the mountain, " goes the familiar story of “The Little Boy and The Rattlesnake.”

It continues “… Just before he laid the rattlesnake down, the rattlesnake turned and bit him in the chest. The little boy cried out and threw the snake upon the ground. "Mr. Snake, why did you do that? Now I will surely die!"

The rattlesnake looked up at him and grinned, "You knew what I was when you picked me up."

Of course, the moral of the story is that creatures don’t change their nature. This also applies to some humans, including one Custo Dalmau, the creative juggernaut behind Custo Barcelona. As he says in his program notes, “Clean … but not really.”

Indeed, one wondered what is was all about as the first looks were chaste by CB standards (for men, a brownish jumpsuit in distressed leather or wool over wool-based graphic jacquard). Then a shift was noticeable by the time of the arrival of the mini-tent dress with dropped waist and cap sleeves. The shoulder of the sleeve is a landscape of alternating gray baby fringe and a green/brown/yellow riptide-like pattern.

The same riptide pattern appears on the ruched waist band, as well as a section of the skirt part of the dress where it shares space with both a stripe and floral pattern dominated by purple, black and seafoam green. This latter pattern is repeated in a more muted color palette on one of four sections of the top. All are laid under cording that resembles a chainlink fence. Finally, there are tights/leggings and shoes in complimentary colors. Clearly, words cannot do it justice. It is a massive amount for the eye to take in, yet it does not cause eye fatigue. The dress is a little work of art.

Diane von Furstenberg pays tribute to American Legends in her Fall 2011 collection. For her efforts she gets a mention for "Best Interpretation of a Vision." Stay tuned for the deets.

Really, there was no point in pretending, “the true essence of Custo Barcelona emerged in an explosive way: colors, prints and graphics takes over splashing it all. (Stay tuned for the video: http://www.youtube.com/liverunway)

A snake is a snake and Custo Barcelona is Custo Barcelona. Like a thrillseeker – CD goes as close to the edge as possible, then pulls himself back at the last minute before he plunges to his death (The bell-shaped, long-sleeved, jewel-neck aqua-multi dress with fringe on right shoulder, left side and on either side at the hem; with it, matching tights and red-fringe boots.

He’s working a lot with wool this season and doing very well indeed, using it as fringe and distressing it; making it look like other fabrics such as organza and jacquard (animal-print leggings and matching top).

Not everyone has the gift to throw five to seven patterns/textures together and maintain his/her equilibrium. Somehow, CD manages to pull off this hat trick season after season and it always seems fresh and relevant. And it is not solely that he can juggle these seven balls at a time. It is the results he achieves, which can be breathtakingly beautiful or “uber-naturally” hip. Or just leave one speechless ... for better or for worse.

Custo, to thyself stay true.

BEST PRESENTATION FORMAT – Yesterday, Tory Burch broke out of the box – literally by democratizing the runway-viewing experience. In September when Fashion Week debuted at Lincoln Center, there were several changes, including the introduction of an intimate venue called “The Box.”

Tory Burch showed ensembles from her Fall 2011 collection in a surprising format.

It offers fashion seekers an opportunity to get up close and personal with the clothes and the models. There are no seats in The Box. One and all get an equal view if they are assertive enough to make elbow room for themselves next to the photographers and others snapping photos.

TB’s show was in a runway venue called The Studio, which has a three-tiered seating structure. Out came the seats and the result was a spectator sport in true fashion: Anybody viewing the TB show would do so standing, not sitting. Several models lined up on either side of the runway entrance, then took their turn walking the plank.

After the finale when models walk single file down the runway before the designer comes out to greet the crowd, the lights went down for a few seconds before coming up again. This marked the start of the show all over again and again and again. Yes, a continuous loop for an hour, allowing far more of TB's followers and anybody who happened into the venue to see the designer’s collection.

In the loop was plenty of plaid and hip-hugging flared pants. A luxurious red velvet pantsuit was a standout.

And no one seemed to mind that s/he had to stand up. – Written and reported by Francesca Simon

BEST USE OF FABRIC AND COLOR – In his Fall 2011 collection, Derek Lam decided to go with wonderful warm colors and lightweight fabrics, blurring the notion of seasonal clothing. Taking the lead from dance and from master choreographer, George Balanchine, DK proved what Balanchine knew: “There are no new steps, only new combinations.”

Vibrant reds, smoky and pale blues and deep burgundy – combined with the standard winter color palette of gray, ivory, navy and beige – gave DK, in his own words, “Some new steps. And new combinations.”

A Shetland coat from the Derek Lam Fall 2011 collection.
This was translated into fluid winter ensembles relieved of bulk, resulting in sleek, tailored ensembles.

Using red stretch double-faced wool, DK crafted Shetland coats and brought into being a glamorous gown with a casual flair. A red lambskin leather jacket paired with a gray wool stretch flannel trouser was definitely packing heat.

Those with an affinity for the weight of winter clothing and textural intrigue will be delighted by the black, natural and wine chintz tweed used to whip up a coat and a classic tweed trouser. – Written and reported by Francesca Simon

Cheers – Max Azria added energy to earth tones with bright shades of orange and tantalizing teal. – FS

Jeers – While the overall collection is lovely, the black ruffle dress made even the very slim Xiao, look fat. The concept doesn’t live up to the execution and the end result is a silhouette that is unflattering to the female figure! – FS

The Cynthia Steffe ruffle dress isn't one of the brighter spots in her Fall 2011 collection.

BEST ENCOUNTER – He stands tall at the Lela Rose show. His lean physique is perfectly fit for his black suit. He isn’t a model, but he could be one were it another time and another place. What sets him apart from the crowd is the tall, black hat and the long, black curls cascading down the side of his face.

Mortcha Rosenfeld is a Hasidic Jew, designer and co-founder of Claideur, an international fashion company that specializes in both Hasidic wear and secular fashion. His offices are in Boro Park, Brooklyn. “It’s my first time at Fashion Week since I’ve been in the business the past 15 years,” he discloses.

“It’s time for the unveiling,” pipes in his companion and co-founder, Yumi Schon. He is significantly shorter but just as fashionably dressed in Hasidic garb.

MR and YS have a cameraman in tow to chronicle their Fashion Week
journey. And although they had been crushed in the back of the standing-room only section of the Studio, they made their way to the front row as the crowd streamed out. Their cameraman began shooting, and their fashion week history was in the making.

Wondering how the have been faring in the hard-drinking, drunk-dancing environment of Fashion Week festivities, I ask how they maintain their spiritual center. “It’s work. I don’t get into the material aspect of it,” says MR without a trace of irony … material aspect …

Don’t be surprised if next season there are whirling dervishes on the scene – it's Fashion Week after all. – Written and reported by Francesca Simon

More from Day 4 shortly. Meanwhile see shows/highlights: http://www.mbfashionweek.com/

Glorious Fusion of Color/Shape/Texture

Custo Barcelona, above, explores dichotomy and geometry for Spring 2011. Photo from Getty Images.

Just like last time, the plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Mind, this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because I can’t be everywhere. But depend on it, I’ll do my best. Drum roll, please …

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Derek Lam, Lela Rose, VPL, Simon Spurr, Malandrino, DKNY, Rebecca Taylor, Elise Overland, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Diane Von Furstenberg, Carmen Marc Valvo, Cynthia Steffe, Y-3, Trias, Designer‘s Collective, Thakoon, Custo Barcelona, Tommy Hilfiger, Vassilios Kostetsos

BEST IN SHOW
CUSTO BARCELONA - His program notes say the Spring 2011 collection is “quintessential CUSTO.” In some ways - namely exploration of color - yes. For Spring, he explores the dichotomy that is ornamentation and functionality. An overarching theme is music festivals.

The result is an extraordinary tête-à-tête between colors bright and colors muted; textures hard and textures soft; volume and streamlining. What a wonderful ode to geometry! - another element that informs the show.

Here’s an opportunity for CB to lose all discipline and present something loud, proud and cartoonish. He did not fall into temptation. Instead, he overlays a white satin boat neck shift w/cap sleeves with taupe fringe. On the hem he uses sequins. He shows the dress with a three-quarter-inch white skinny jean w/a charcoal geometric design. Both pieces can be worn separately. Even with color he exercises control as in the sleeveless multi-pink/green striped shift. It has trapezoid-shaped strips of floral patterns strategically placed about it and fringe on the hem. Over it is a red/white striped cardigan with a blue floral motif.

The various dichotomies are palpable, comprehensible and wowderful. He only seems to confuse on one or two points. Take the men’s jacket, pants and jewel-neck shirt trio. The b&w stripe/tye-dye pattern comes across as more old-school prison stripes than music festival garb or as geometric commentary, unless the meaning is that the shortest distance between two points is a straight line.


MOST DISMAYING HISSY FIT
ANDRE LEON TALLEY - “This is the way I came out for the show and this is the way I am going back in,”Andre Leon Talley bellows at the guard.

The Vogue editor-at-large had moments before left his place on the front row of the Diane von Furstenburg show to go backstage by way of the door behind the last row of seats. Apparently, the guard had strict orders to not let anyone re-enter through that door.

“I’m trying to work here,” ALT declares, scattering several DVF minions about in search of someone who can override the guard’s orders.

“You obviously don’t work for Diane,” he gives the guard to know. “I came through this door with Anna Wintour and I am returning this way,” he declares, smoothly dropping his supervisor’s name.

It became too painful to continue to witness such an unfortunate episode. I left to enter backstage through the mouth of the runway, which is where the guard politely asked ALT to enter. When I came back after my wild-goose chase for pictures of the hot sandals, I exited where the guard was standing.

In answer to my query, he indicates that he is OK. “He’s a big man,” says he of YouKnowWho. “He has fame and money, but he’s not happy ... He will die a painful death.”