Monday, September 10, 2012

MBFW Day 4: The Custo Chado Carmen Zac & Zang Show

HEAD’S UP: Continuing the approach we adopted commencing with the Fall 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, VEVLYN'S PEN will put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway, rather than a sort of “best of the lot, even if it’s not that good.” Why the change? Simply put, we have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires, we will tell you so and tell you why. We still endeavor, however, to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Bespoken, Lela Rose, Tracy Reese, Erickson Beamon, Custo Barcelona, Diane von Furstenberg, Carmen Marc Valvo, Y-3, Timo Weiland, Zang Toi, Zac Posen, David Tlale, Chado Ralph Rucci, Emerson, DKNY, Designer’s Collective, Edwing D'Angelo, Anna Francesca, Blanc de Chine

is energizing and inspirational. It has a way of stirring us, shaking us out of the winter doldrums – stripping away layers, commanding a clearing of every area of our lives, not just our windows and closets.

And that brings the conversation around to fashion designers. They, too, are inspired by spring. No doubt, that is a significant reason why collections being shown on runways, catwalks, pushcarts and scaffolding around Manhattan during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week are leaving certain folks a little breathless, with a smile and a sigh. Hear that ... aaaahhhh!!

A bit of transcendence from the Spring-Summer David Tlale collection. Photo by Yours Truly.

In February, it was not until around Day 5 that the collections for Fall 2012 began to look like something. Understandable to an extent. Designers and their respective villages were coming off the holidays and hoping for a swift end to winter. Perhaps they were a bit spent, which accounts for the sluggishness of some of the collections.

Fast forward to September when everybody has been enjoying summer, a few too-hot days notwithstanding, and the creative juices are flowing like rapids. Many Spring-Summer 2013 collections have a joie de vivre and suggest a bright, rosy future. That’s a very good thing at a moment when the world economy is in the doldrums, excepting a very few places.

Yesterday, was a good day, a really good day, for fashion in New York. It was a bit out of the ordinary in that it featured both a pride of old lions (Chado Ralph Rucci [see video above], Carmen Marc Valvo, Custo Barcelona, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY) and young cats (Zang Toi, Zac Posen ), as well as an up and comer (David Tlale) from the part of the world that gave birth to human kind. Indeed, it was a good, good day.

It was also a day of easy “best ofs,” which Yours Truly in the interest of time will address in pictures (below, with a one sentence blurb explaining why) and a promise to return with more details later.

Paris and Nicky Hilton mixing with the regular folk at the Pepsi Lounge at Lincoln Center. Photo by Daralyn Jay.

SIGHTING ROYALE: What could (temporarily) curtail the feeding frenzy at the Prosecco and Diet Pepsi cocktails open bar in the Pepsi-sponsored courtyard lounge at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week on Sunday? More of a who – their royal highnesses of fashion celebrity, socialites Paris and Nicky Hilton. The hotel heiresses braved the milling throng to be interviewed in what was formerly a quiet corner. After conducting their business, seemingly oblivious to the dozens of cell/mobile phone paparazzi, the sisters Hilton beat a retreat to their next destination. – BY DARALYN JAY

On Deck today, Day 5: Norisol Ferrari, Joy Cioci, Carolina Herrera, Carlos Miele, Mark McNairym, Farah Angsana, Marimekko, Donna Karan New York, Angel Sanchez, Reem Acra, Gilded Age, Chris Benz, Joanna Mastroianni, Mathieu Mirano, Strut, Reem Acra, alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet, Karen Walker, Angel Sanchez

Visit to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 4 Pictorial/Best ofs
Overall Show: Chado Ralph Rucci
His p.r. says it best: meticulous workmanship. Photos from here downward courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Old School Craft: Carmen Marc Valvo
The designer showed his elegant and sophisticated collection in a building in the Garment District, an area that once upon a time was the venue for virtually all of the New York shows.

Use of Prints: Custo Barcelona
It ain't easy to wrangle into a cohesive whole five to seven different prints and not look CRAZY!

Presentation: Erickson Beamon
"Who Are You?" is the question and an attempt to answer it takes into account stationary spectator-filled bleachers, as well as mobile, female model-bearing pushcarts and tuxedo-clad men who may or may be models, who may or may not be drivers.

When Women Were Dames:  Zac Posen
The gowns effortless capture the zeitgeist following one of the great wars.

Vision/When Women Were Ladies:  Zang Toi
This woman has a rendevous and is dressed for it, right down to her silk stockings.

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