MBFW Day 1: Quiet, Then All Hell Breaks Loose

Models on the runway toward the end of the Ozwald Boateng show. Photo from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Website.

HEAD’S UP: Continuing the approach we adopted commencing with the Fall 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, VEVLYN'S PEN will put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway, rather than a sort of “best of the lot, even if it’s not that good.” Why the change? Simply put, we have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires, we will tell you so and tell you why. We still endeavor, however, to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

Day 1
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Nicholas K, BCBGMaxAzria, Kaelen, Richard Chai, Siki Im, Chadwick Bell, Tadashi Shoji, Monika Chiang, Duckie Brown, Arise Magazine Presents: African Icons, Supima, The Art Institute of New York City, Katie Gallagher, Honor, Costello Tagliapietra, Kimberly Ovitz, Jenni Kayne, Steven Alan, Veronica Beard, Creatures of the Wind, Lisa Perry, Erin Fetherston

IT was around siesta time when the joint at the first day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was shaken out of its slumber. The ruckus was caused by the man himself – or rather his presentation – Ozwald Boateng.

BEST SPECTACLE and BEST PRESENTATION – Showing for the first time at New York and under the rubric of Arise Magazine Presents: African Icons, OB injected a motherlode of energy into what heretofore had been a rather tame affair. That applies not only to the day, but also to others showing under the Arise umbrella.

Rather than send the models out one by one, the Ghanian jettisoned them in a group that stood abreast of each other. This was a force and it may have had arms underneath some of those snazzy suit jackets. The force would not be moved; it stood at the mouth of the runway stoically looking straight ahead, daring anyone who dared. It was a formidable sight.

When the force deigned to move itself, each individual member made his way down the runway, oozing out of every pore in his finely honed body virility and self-possession. His presence is so huge that this kind of man – dressed as he is, radiating the type of energy  he is – sucks all of the air out of the room. This is a man with the plan and he is dressed to kill or whatever else you got.

In a word, the show was a spectacle – and that’s a good thing. “That’s how they do it in London,” one wag exclaimed of the city where OB resides. Alas, there is not yet any video. Inexplicably, none appears on the MBFW Web site either. Is this a total diss?

When you on occasion combine blindingly bright West African prints and by-the-book Savile Row tailoring, producing garments that are – hot dog! – out of sight, by golly, put on a spectacle. And yes, end it with a sergeant type inspecting the troops, for they will pass muster because you have ruthlessly and effortless applied the training you received in style bootcamp.

IT’S ALL COPASETIC – Elsewhere around Day 1, opener Nicholas K was totally chill. The aviator-framed eyeglasses and cloche-shaped beanie worn by some of the female models could cause one to wonder whether designer Nicholas Kunz had air travel on her mind. Of course, it could be the way the anoraks and other jackets, as well as some of the dresses are held aloft behind the models making their way insouciantly down the runway. Whatever it was, it was easy on the eye and wearer-friendly. While NK doesn’t go for the razzmatazz of an OB, she makes an impression in a lowkey way. The Spring-Summer 13 collection is laidback, heavy on layers as it the norm at Nicholas K. (See video above). Nothing wows, but that series of silks/satins in burnt/orange for women provides a nice visual among the other more subdued colors and fabrics. Ditto for the trio of seafoam green (Nicholas K calls it soy) ensembles toward the end.

A look from The Art Institute of New York City show that very few likely saw. Photo by Fernanda Calfat for Getty Images

TRIED&TRUE AND S&M – Meanwhile, BCBGMaxAzria is successful because the husband-wife team of Max and Lubov Azria puts a premium on quality materials. Often that makes all the difference, especially if one is not stoked on innovation and doesn't possess mad sewing skills. SS13 takes inspiration from femme fatale muses and the b&w photography of Helmut Newton. Bands, belts and straps lend to the proceedings an S&M quality. After a while they also prove rather monotonous; just about every look is trussed thusly. The vision is best captured by the black lace dress with little embellishment from bands and such. A series of dresses bearing prints that are reminiscent of grandma’s quilt are quite fetching. Perhaps, they represent the femme fatale before so heartlessly her bloom of innocence was plucked. (See video below).

THEY GOT ROBBED! – What is it about design schools and their shows being scheduled smack-dab in the middle of Fashion’s Night Out. It happened in 2009, the first year of FNO, to the Academy of Art University. Did IMG (the outfit that puts on MBFW) not get the memo. Once it understandable, but twice is – come on now! Last night, who was showing way too late in the Studio tent but The Art Institute of New York City. At 7 p.m. An hour into FNO, which officially was from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. No one knows anybody who made that AAU show in 2009. Everybody was out partying and ostensibly doing a little shopping. Yours Truly dropped in first at BCBG where New York City police commissioner Ray Kelly was getting his boogie on. The fact that the San Francisco-based AAU sent out links to the video of its show, apologizing to those who missed it, suggests there were lots of empty seats in the Theatre tent. Will TAINYC follow suit? Stay tuned.

WE GOT ROBBED! – Fashion’s Night Out is so over, at least on the Upper East Side. Last night, the Madison Avenue corridor between 59th and 72nd streets resembled a ghost town shortly after nightfall. A few stores – J Mendel, Michael Kors and DKNY, for instance – had a party going but most of them had shuttered or were shuttering. Security guards were stationed at the door to keep revelers out, only opening it for those who were exiting the joint. Some stores may quit, owing to trifling traffic. ESCADA at one point was empty. Empty! My FNO companion and I concluded that, in part, the intimidation factor may be in play.

As Companion remarked, the stores are no longer getting any benefit from this exercise in commerce that isn't, so won’t be bothered. She was speaking specifically of the Valentino, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein and Armanis of the world. Armani couldn’t even be bothered with having a party at its store in the high ‘60s.

Last year, Armani hosted Samuel L. Jackson and Angela Bassett who were in New York to star in a Broadway play about Martin Luther King, Jr. The year before, Armani hosted a Q&A with Lauren Hutton. Beverly Johnson was there! In 2009-2011, the joint at Valentino was jumpin’, man. The atmosphere was electric. One year there was celebrity poker; last year, Tracy Morgan was one of the celebrities who stepped up for karaoke. These parties went until at least around 10 p.m. The last two years, I ended my night at CH Carolina Herrera around 11 p.m.ish. Though the FNO Web site indicated that this year’s party would end at 11 p.m., the boutique was darkened before 9 p.m.; ditto for Calvin Klein. So many shops followed Armani’s example and had nothing. Bummer!!!!

On Deck today, Day 2: Fashion Law Institute, Czar by Cesar Galindo, Harlem's Fashion Row, Project Runway, Concept Korea, W118 by Walter Baker, Rebecca Minkoff, Pamella Roland, Tommy Hilfiger, Nicole Miller, Todd Snyder, Charlotte Ronson, ELLE Fashion/NEXT, Academy of Art University, Parkchoonmoo, Kara Ross, Project Runway, Concept Korea, Noon by Noor, Erin Barr,Rafael Cennamo, Rubin & Chapelle, Sherri Hill, Elena Vasilevsky

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 1 Pictorial
Arise
Tiffany Amber and Ozwald Boateng. Photos by Michael Loccisano for Getty Images.

Tadashi Shoji
Photos by Mike Coppola for Getty Images.

Monika Chiang
Photos by Cindy Ord for Getty Images.

Richard Chai
Photos by Frazer Harrison for Getty Images.

Supima
Photos by Fernanda Calfat for Getty Images.

Day 4 NYFW: He's Gotta Be Him

For Fall 2011, Custo Barcelona started with some simple things, overalls/jumpsuit below, before reverting to form with more elaborate creations, left. Photos from Getty Images.

HEAD’S UP: It’s now a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. This go round Yours Truly has a wingwoman in the person of Dame Francesca Simon. Even with two of us, though, we really, really can’t be everywhere. But we will be where something is happening and will keep you in the loop. Drum roll, please …

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Behnaz Sarafpour, Bensoni, Calvin Klein Collection Men’s, Carmen Marc Valvo, Cushnie et Ochs, Custo Barcelona, Cynthia Steffe, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Duro Olowu, Gregory Parkinson, Lela Rose, Malandrino, Max Azria, Moncler Grenoble, Preen, Romas by Linda Rowe Thomas, Thakoon, Timo Weiland, Tommy Hilfiger, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, VPL, Y-3, Zang Toi

BY YOURS TRULY, VEVLYN WRIGHT

BEST IN SHOW – The little boy was walking down a path and he came across a rattlesnake. The rattlesnake was getting old.

He asked, "Please little boy, can you take me to the top of the mountain? I hope to see the sunset one last time before I die."

The little boy answered, "No, Mr. Rattlesnake. If I pick you up, you'll bite me and I'll die."

The rattlesnake said, "No, I promise. I won't bite you. Just please take me up to the mountain, " goes the familiar story of “The Little Boy and The Rattlesnake.”

It continues “… Just before he laid the rattlesnake down, the rattlesnake turned and bit him in the chest. The little boy cried out and threw the snake upon the ground. "Mr. Snake, why did you do that? Now I will surely die!"

The rattlesnake looked up at him and grinned, "You knew what I was when you picked me up."

Of course, the moral of the story is that creatures don’t change their nature. This also applies to some humans, including one Custo Dalmau, the creative juggernaut behind Custo Barcelona. As he says in his program notes, “Clean … but not really.”

Indeed, one wondered what is was all about as the first looks were chaste by CB standards (for men, a brownish jumpsuit in distressed leather or wool over wool-based graphic jacquard). Then a shift was noticeable by the time of the arrival of the mini-tent dress with dropped waist and cap sleeves. The shoulder of the sleeve is a landscape of alternating gray baby fringe and a green/brown/yellow riptide-like pattern.

The same riptide pattern appears on the ruched waist band, as well as a section of the skirt part of the dress where it shares space with both a stripe and floral pattern dominated by purple, black and seafoam green. This latter pattern is repeated in a more muted color palette on one of four sections of the top. All are laid under cording that resembles a chainlink fence. Finally, there are tights/leggings and shoes in complimentary colors. Clearly, words cannot do it justice. It is a massive amount for the eye to take in, yet it does not cause eye fatigue. The dress is a little work of art.

Diane von Furstenberg pays tribute to American Legends in her Fall 2011 collection. For her efforts she gets a mention for "Best Interpretation of a Vision." Stay tuned for the deets.

Really, there was no point in pretending, “the true essence of Custo Barcelona emerged in an explosive way: colors, prints and graphics takes over splashing it all. (Stay tuned for the video: http://www.youtube.com/liverunway)

A snake is a snake and Custo Barcelona is Custo Barcelona. Like a thrillseeker – CD goes as close to the edge as possible, then pulls himself back at the last minute before he plunges to his death (The bell-shaped, long-sleeved, jewel-neck aqua-multi dress with fringe on right shoulder, left side and on either side at the hem; with it, matching tights and red-fringe boots.

He’s working a lot with wool this season and doing very well indeed, using it as fringe and distressing it; making it look like other fabrics such as organza and jacquard (animal-print leggings and matching top).

Not everyone has the gift to throw five to seven patterns/textures together and maintain his/her equilibrium. Somehow, CD manages to pull off this hat trick season after season and it always seems fresh and relevant. And it is not solely that he can juggle these seven balls at a time. It is the results he achieves, which can be breathtakingly beautiful or “uber-naturally” hip. Or just leave one speechless ... for better or for worse.

Custo, to thyself stay true.

BEST PRESENTATION FORMAT – Yesterday, Tory Burch broke out of the box – literally by democratizing the runway-viewing experience. In September when Fashion Week debuted at Lincoln Center, there were several changes, including the introduction of an intimate venue called “The Box.”

Tory Burch showed ensembles from her Fall 2011 collection in a surprising format.

It offers fashion seekers an opportunity to get up close and personal with the clothes and the models. There are no seats in The Box. One and all get an equal view if they are assertive enough to make elbow room for themselves next to the photographers and others snapping photos.

TB’s show was in a runway venue called The Studio, which has a three-tiered seating structure. Out came the seats and the result was a spectator sport in true fashion: Anybody viewing the TB show would do so standing, not sitting. Several models lined up on either side of the runway entrance, then took their turn walking the plank.

After the finale when models walk single file down the runway before the designer comes out to greet the crowd, the lights went down for a few seconds before coming up again. This marked the start of the show all over again and again and again. Yes, a continuous loop for an hour, allowing far more of TB's followers and anybody who happened into the venue to see the designer’s collection.

In the loop was plenty of plaid and hip-hugging flared pants. A luxurious red velvet pantsuit was a standout.

And no one seemed to mind that s/he had to stand up. – Written and reported by Francesca Simon

BEST USE OF FABRIC AND COLOR – In his Fall 2011 collection, Derek Lam decided to go with wonderful warm colors and lightweight fabrics, blurring the notion of seasonal clothing. Taking the lead from dance and from master choreographer, George Balanchine, DK proved what Balanchine knew: “There are no new steps, only new combinations.”

Vibrant reds, smoky and pale blues and deep burgundy – combined with the standard winter color palette of gray, ivory, navy and beige – gave DK, in his own words, “Some new steps. And new combinations.”

A Shetland coat from the Derek Lam Fall 2011 collection.
This was translated into fluid winter ensembles relieved of bulk, resulting in sleek, tailored ensembles.

Using red stretch double-faced wool, DK crafted Shetland coats and brought into being a glamorous gown with a casual flair. A red lambskin leather jacket paired with a gray wool stretch flannel trouser was definitely packing heat.

Those with an affinity for the weight of winter clothing and textural intrigue will be delighted by the black, natural and wine chintz tweed used to whip up a coat and a classic tweed trouser. – Written and reported by Francesca Simon

Cheers – Max Azria added energy to earth tones with bright shades of orange and tantalizing teal. – FS

Jeers – While the overall collection is lovely, the black ruffle dress made even the very slim Xiao, look fat. The concept doesn’t live up to the execution and the end result is a silhouette that is unflattering to the female figure! – FS

The Cynthia Steffe ruffle dress isn't one of the brighter spots in her Fall 2011 collection.

BEST ENCOUNTER – He stands tall at the Lela Rose show. His lean physique is perfectly fit for his black suit. He isn’t a model, but he could be one were it another time and another place. What sets him apart from the crowd is the tall, black hat and the long, black curls cascading down the side of his face.

Mortcha Rosenfeld is a Hasidic Jew, designer and co-founder of Claideur, an international fashion company that specializes in both Hasidic wear and secular fashion. His offices are in Boro Park, Brooklyn. “It’s my first time at Fashion Week since I’ve been in the business the past 15 years,” he discloses.

“It’s time for the unveiling,” pipes in his companion and co-founder, Yumi Schon. He is significantly shorter but just as fashionably dressed in Hasidic garb.

MR and YS have a cameraman in tow to chronicle their Fashion Week
journey. And although they had been crushed in the back of the standing-room only section of the Studio, they made their way to the front row as the crowd streamed out. Their cameraman began shooting, and their fashion week history was in the making.

Wondering how the have been faring in the hard-drinking, drunk-dancing environment of Fashion Week festivities, I ask how they maintain their spiritual center. “It’s work. I don’t get into the material aspect of it,” says MR without a trace of irony … material aspect …

Don’t be surprised if next season there are whirling dervishes on the scene – it's Fashion Week after all. – Written and reported by Francesca Simon

More from Day 4 shortly. Meanwhile see shows/highlights: http://www.mbfashionweek.com/

East and West Make Nice at Wang Center

A killer piece, left, from the Vera Wang Spring 2011 collection. Below, Fat Jew in some of his glory after the Tony Francesc show. Top photo from Getty Images; bottom by Yours Truly.

Just like last time, the plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Mind, this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because I can’t be everywhere. But depend on it, I’ll do my best. Drum roll, please …

Day 6
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Ellie Tahari, Badgley Mischka, Karen Walker, Vera Wang, Rodarte, Matthew Ames, Rosa Cha, Lavuk, Max Azria, Dennis Basso, Dress Reform, Luca Luca, Yigal Azrouel, Tibi, Narciso Rodriguez, Tony Francesc, Alice + Olivia, Improvd, Rachel Roy, Mulberry, Bibhu Mohapatra, Jason Wu for TSE, Pamella Roland

BEST IN SHOW
VERA WANG – Surely, Vera Wang did not have murder and carnage on her mind when she took as her guiding spirit “Kill Bill” for Spring 2011. Of course, not. She uses Part 1 of Quentin Tarantino’s two-part tour de force to explore “the fusion of East meets West with a mixture of boyish urban sophistication and romantic otherworldly sensuality.”

She sheds the more spare look she adopted for fall to return to what she's mastered – sophisticated, artsy and intricate. The things she manages with the obi are jaw-dropping, amongst other feats. Stay tuned for more on what is sure to be one of the top two or three collections of the week – if not the best.

MOST INTERESTING MAKEUP
ROSA CHA – As the saying goes, “when you find a good thing, stick with it.” Rosa Cha took this sage advice to heart in her choice of fabric. The black floral is the leitmotif in her Spring 2011 collection of bathing/body suits and little dresses/tunics. The eye treament, too, is one note – perfectly in sync with the magenta, yellow, aqua, etc., of the pattern. The aqua bleeds from the inside of the eyelid onto the top of the bridge of the nose. Some models looked possessed as if they have multiple eyes making contact with each other. Others looked dazed or confused. A few look dazed and confused. It is weird but somehow also wonderful.

BEST SPECTACLE
FAT JEW – Sitting insouciantly on the front row of the Tony Francesc show w/ generous belly exposed underneath a sky-blue jacket. Gi-normous ‘fro he’s constantly raking his hands through like a nervous twenty-something female. Blocking the view of several people sitting behind him. One eye on him and one eye on TF’s enchanting “Urban Forest” exhibition. It’s Fat Jew – lewd, proud and straight outta the Lower East Side.

After the show, I elbow my way through the crowd for an audience. “May I take your picture?”

“Sure,” Fat Jew says, gently moving his petite companion out of the sight of my puny phone camera lens.

I get three decent shots and ask an obvious question. “Who are you? Are you a designer?”

On me he fixes a Cheshire cat grin and issues a challenge. “Google me.”

Like the man said, and some things I learned:
1, Fat Jew is more than a name: Funky Angry Tender Joyous Equalitarian Whimsical;
2, According to his Twitter bio, “I’m not a man, I’m an idea. And you can’t kill an idea.”;
3, He’s aka (self-anointed) “The King of Brunch” because he has brunch every da;y
4, He a member of the electro-rap” group, Team Facelift, “a mix between Barbra Streisand and Wu Tang Clan.”;
5, He’s a Mets fan and has appeared on SNY’s Mets Weekly;
6, Once upon a time he lived in a U-haul;
7, He’s reportedly a guest at some of the hottest parties in the world;
8, And finally, from his mouth to your ears. “I’m New York City’s fanciest, sleaziest, hunkiest, ruggedest, bummiest, and sauciest. I’m the ugly Rob Lowe …,” he gives all who have eyes to know.

“I’m into pedicures, Tony Danza, honey mustard, ribbed turtlenecks, loofahs, not giving a fuck, frenzied behavior, tasteful floral arrangements, Jewish girls from Long Island, making poor decisions, shrimp in baskets, depression, cheap champagne, penny loafers, and watching drunk white girls at bars singing ‘Juicy’ …
You’re welcome.”

Thank you, FJ.