MBFW Day 6: Rodarte's Route &The Path of Khan

HEAD’S UP: We had so much fun in September talking show talk in 50 words or less that we are doing it again for Fall 2014 and for the forseeable future. Also expect our customary off-the runway catwalk alleyway walk-about chatter, banter and asides. Indeed though, Yours Truly, Neil Wolfson and whoever else joins our merry band will hold forth on what truly inspires or what is so painfully hideous that it is remarkable, but ever so briefly. And … game ON!!!!!!

Naeem Khan


Day 6
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Allsaints, the Art Institutes, Badley Mischka, Badgley Mischka, Malan Breton, Tory Burch, Chaos NY, Concept Korea, J. Crew, Wes Gordon, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Naeem Khan, Leather Japan, Libertine, MM6 Maison Martin Margiela, Wendy Nichol, Jenny Packham, Rodarte, Pamella Roland, Saunder, Skingraft, Sophia Theallet Twain's Twines, Vera Wang, Alexander Vidal, Timo Weiland

AT Rodarte, the siblings Mulleavy spend part of their Fall 2014 journey transporting travelers through "Star Wars." Meanwhile, back on Earth, Naeem Khan is transportive in his way. The gorgeous gownage and evening wear is stunning to the point of taking the onlooker to an alternate universe. Here is a bit of nirvana. Enjoy the photos … To be continued.


Naeem Khan Fall 2014. Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

On Deck today, Day 7: B Michael America, Lie Sang Bong, Clover Canyon, Douglas Hannant, Betsey Johnson, Joie, Kaufmanfranco, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Bibhu Mohapatra, Sass & Bide, Jeremy Scott, Anna Sui, Urban Zen, Zang Toi

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Fall 2014, including show information and videos.

MBFW Day 6: A Man With a Plan and Other Cool Customers

HEAD’S UP: Continuing the approach we adopted commencing with the Fall 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, VEVLYN'S PEN will put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway, rather than a sort of “best of the lot, even if it’s not that good.” Why the change? Simply put, we have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires, we will tell you so and tell you why. We still endeavor, however, to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

Day 6
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Tory Burch, J.Crew, Brandon Sun, Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, John Bartlett, Jenny Packham, Diesel Black Gold, Naeem Khan, Candela, Osklen, Falguni and Shane Peacock, Dona Daneshi, Rachel Roy, Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Ankar Sweden

OSCAR de la Renta is a smooth operator.

For several seasons, and perhaps longer, he has been courting a younger customer, shortening the length of dresses, skirts and sleeves, adding more cinches, exposing more shoulder and neckline. Nothing too, too drastic, though the pink tutu dress begs to differ. (See video above).

ODLR continues the courtship with confident machinations for Spring 2013 with a lace-heavy, skin-baring collection with interjections of neon-leather. It embraces the young while keeping his core customer – the chic matron and chic matron-in-training – happy and distracted by the likes of the belted-white cropped-sleeve shirt and skirt ensemble with lace detail.

A look from the Tory Burch Spring-Summer 2013 collection. Photo by Slaven Vlasic.

While ODLR never disappoints, he is not alone in this regard. Day 6 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was better for having Vera Wang come “Out of India” with an exquisite rendering of lace jacquard and Indian damask. She is frontrunner for “best presentation.” She has competition, though, from Falguni & Shane Peacock’s “Moto Crew.” These motleys clearly booked a passage where no man (or woman) has gone before and encountered The Borg and some Klingons in bad temper. Both species taught them well the inner workings of prints both cyber graphic and galactic graphic.

Elsewhere, the gurls at Rodarte deserve honorable mention for even attempting to reinterpret medievel fantasy into frock wearable.

Let’s also show some luv to ANKAR Sweden for the welcome breakfast (including croissants, fresh fruit, bagels, cream cheese and lox). It complemented the label’s latest collection, evoking the image of American boys on Martha’s Vineyard and in the Hamptons – with an ANKAR spin, of course.

And the breakfast contributed to the enjoyment of the captivating sights filling the cavernous windows at P.J. Clarke’s. More on all and a word about Dona Daneshi later. Until then, enjoy the picture show.

On Deck today, Day 7: Bibhu Mohapatra, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Douglas Hannant, Philosophy, Jeremy Scott, Rachel Zoe, J.Mendel, Milly by Michelle Smith, Gant by Michael Bastian, Marchesa, Anna Sui, Louise Goldin, Proenza Schouler, Holmes & Yang, Fotina, NY Republica Dominicana Fashion Week, EleVen by Venus Williams, Whitney Eve, Soojin-Lee, Vivienne Tam, Homo Consommatus

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 6 Pictorial
Vera Wang
Photos by Frazer Harrison.

Falguni & Shane Peacock
Photos by Frazer Harrison.

John Bartlett
Photos by Slaven Vlasic.

Naeem Khan
Photos by Frazer Harrison.

East and West Make Nice at Wang Center

A killer piece, left, from the Vera Wang Spring 2011 collection. Below, Fat Jew in some of his glory after the Tony Francesc show. Top photo from Getty Images; bottom by Yours Truly.

Just like last time, the plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Mind, this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because I can’t be everywhere. But depend on it, I’ll do my best. Drum roll, please …

Day 6
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Ellie Tahari, Badgley Mischka, Karen Walker, Vera Wang, Rodarte, Matthew Ames, Rosa Cha, Lavuk, Max Azria, Dennis Basso, Dress Reform, Luca Luca, Yigal Azrouel, Tibi, Narciso Rodriguez, Tony Francesc, Alice + Olivia, Improvd, Rachel Roy, Mulberry, Bibhu Mohapatra, Jason Wu for TSE, Pamella Roland

BEST IN SHOW
VERA WANG – Surely, Vera Wang did not have murder and carnage on her mind when she took as her guiding spirit “Kill Bill” for Spring 2011. Of course, not. She uses Part 1 of Quentin Tarantino’s two-part tour de force to explore “the fusion of East meets West with a mixture of boyish urban sophistication and romantic otherworldly sensuality.”

She sheds the more spare look she adopted for fall to return to what she's mastered – sophisticated, artsy and intricate. The things she manages with the obi are jaw-dropping, amongst other feats. Stay tuned for more on what is sure to be one of the top two or three collections of the week – if not the best.

MOST INTERESTING MAKEUP
ROSA CHA – As the saying goes, “when you find a good thing, stick with it.” Rosa Cha took this sage advice to heart in her choice of fabric. The black floral is the leitmotif in her Spring 2011 collection of bathing/body suits and little dresses/tunics. The eye treament, too, is one note – perfectly in sync with the magenta, yellow, aqua, etc., of the pattern. The aqua bleeds from the inside of the eyelid onto the top of the bridge of the nose. Some models looked possessed as if they have multiple eyes making contact with each other. Others looked dazed or confused. A few look dazed and confused. It is weird but somehow also wonderful.

BEST SPECTACLE
FAT JEW – Sitting insouciantly on the front row of the Tony Francesc show w/ generous belly exposed underneath a sky-blue jacket. Gi-normous ‘fro he’s constantly raking his hands through like a nervous twenty-something female. Blocking the view of several people sitting behind him. One eye on him and one eye on TF’s enchanting “Urban Forest” exhibition. It’s Fat Jew – lewd, proud and straight outta the Lower East Side.

After the show, I elbow my way through the crowd for an audience. “May I take your picture?”

“Sure,” Fat Jew says, gently moving his petite companion out of the sight of my puny phone camera lens.

I get three decent shots and ask an obvious question. “Who are you? Are you a designer?”

On me he fixes a Cheshire cat grin and issues a challenge. “Google me.”

Like the man said, and some things I learned:
1, Fat Jew is more than a name: Funky Angry Tender Joyous Equalitarian Whimsical;
2, According to his Twitter bio, “I’m not a man, I’m an idea. And you can’t kill an idea.”;
3, He’s aka (self-anointed) “The King of Brunch” because he has brunch every da;y
4, He a member of the electro-rap” group, Team Facelift, “a mix between Barbra Streisand and Wu Tang Clan.”;
5, He’s a Mets fan and has appeared on SNY’s Mets Weekly;
6, Once upon a time he lived in a U-haul;
7, He’s reportedly a guest at some of the hottest parties in the world;
8, And finally, from his mouth to your ears. “I’m New York City’s fanciest, sleaziest, hunkiest, ruggedest, bummiest, and sauciest. I’m the ugly Rob Lowe …,” he gives all who have eyes to know.

“I’m into pedicures, Tony Danza, honey mustard, ribbed turtlenecks, loofahs, not giving a fuck, frenzied behavior, tasteful floral arrangements, Jewish girls from Long Island, making poor decisions, shrimp in baskets, depression, cheap champagne, penny loafers, and watching drunk white girls at bars singing ‘Juicy’ …
You’re welcome.”

Thank you, FJ.