MBFW Day 6: A Man With a Plan and Other Cool Customers

HEAD’S UP: Continuing the approach we adopted commencing with the Fall 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, VEVLYN'S PEN will put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway, rather than a sort of “best of the lot, even if it’s not that good.” Why the change? Simply put, we have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires, we will tell you so and tell you why. We still endeavor, however, to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly (and others) witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

Day 6
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Tory Burch, J.Crew, Brandon Sun, Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, John Bartlett, Jenny Packham, Diesel Black Gold, Naeem Khan, Candela, Osklen, Falguni and Shane Peacock, Dona Daneshi, Rachel Roy, Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Ankar Sweden

OSCAR de la Renta is a smooth operator.

For several seasons, and perhaps longer, he has been courting a younger customer, shortening the length of dresses, skirts and sleeves, adding more cinches, exposing more shoulder and neckline. Nothing too, too drastic, though the pink tutu dress begs to differ. (See video above).

ODLR continues the courtship with confident machinations for Spring 2013 with a lace-heavy, skin-baring collection with interjections of neon-leather. It embraces the young while keeping his core customer – the chic matron and chic matron-in-training – happy and distracted by the likes of the belted-white cropped-sleeve shirt and skirt ensemble with lace detail.

A look from the Tory Burch Spring-Summer 2013 collection. Photo by Slaven Vlasic.

While ODLR never disappoints, he is not alone in this regard. Day 6 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was better for having Vera Wang come “Out of India” with an exquisite rendering of lace jacquard and Indian damask. She is frontrunner for “best presentation.” She has competition, though, from Falguni & Shane Peacock’s “Moto Crew.” These motleys clearly booked a passage where no man (or woman) has gone before and encountered The Borg and some Klingons in bad temper. Both species taught them well the inner workings of prints both cyber graphic and galactic graphic.

Elsewhere, the gurls at Rodarte deserve honorable mention for even attempting to reinterpret medievel fantasy into frock wearable.

Let’s also show some luv to ANKAR Sweden for the welcome breakfast (including croissants, fresh fruit, bagels, cream cheese and lox). It complemented the label’s latest collection, evoking the image of American boys on Martha’s Vineyard and in the Hamptons – with an ANKAR spin, of course.

And the breakfast contributed to the enjoyment of the captivating sights filling the cavernous windows at P.J. Clarke’s. More on all and a word about Dona Daneshi later. Until then, enjoy the picture show.

On Deck today, Day 7: Bibhu Mohapatra, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Douglas Hannant, Philosophy, Jeremy Scott, Rachel Zoe, J.Mendel, Milly by Michelle Smith, Gant by Michael Bastian, Marchesa, Anna Sui, Louise Goldin, Proenza Schouler, Holmes & Yang, Fotina, NY Republica Dominicana Fashion Week, EleVen by Venus Williams, Whitney Eve, Soojin-Lee, Vivienne Tam, Homo Consommatus

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 6 Pictorial
Vera Wang
Photos by Frazer Harrison.

Falguni & Shane Peacock
Photos by Frazer Harrison.

John Bartlett
Photos by Slaven Vlasic.

Naeem Khan
Photos by Frazer Harrison.

Day 2 NYFW: We're in the Money! ... (Metallic Strike)

Rag & Bones likes layers for Spring 2012. Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images.

HEAD’S UP: I repeat, it is officially a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. It should go without saying, but it shan’t – this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because a body can’t be everywhere. But, of course, depend on one’s best effort. Drum roll, please …

Day 2
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Billy Reid, Christian Cota, Costello Tagliapietra, Mara Hoffman, Paola Hernandez, Emerson, Falguni & Shane Peacock, Cynthia Rowley, Doo.Ri, Jason Wu, Luca Luca, Mandy Coon, NAHM, Nicole Miller, Peter Som, Rag & Bone, Rebecca Taylor, The Row, Tess Giberson, United Bamboo, Yigal Azrouël, General Idea.

WHAT a difference a day has made at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2012!

On Day 1, there was a pronounced lack of verve, vivacity, vision. You name it, it wasn’t there. Some 24 hours later there is an embarrassment of riches. Whereas before, there could be no “best overall show” designation, for instance, now there is too much from which to choose.

Speeding wheels got Nicole Miller going for Spring 2012. Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images.

Is it Nicole Miller who is best overall for letting it rip on wheels – possibly a skateboard as translated in stripes aplenty or bright multi-colored leggings that the blind can see? What of Peter Som’s arresting florals and partial nod to 60s style? Keep in mind, too, that Rag & Bone layered it on moderately – take note Nicholas K – with inspiration from hither and yon. Further, Cynthia Rowley’s exploration/excavation of metallica, including a gold metallic runway, has to be given its due consideration.

The committee is in intense discussion. Do standby. Meanwhile, there are other observations to make …

BEST PRESENTATION FORMAT – For Spring 2012, the cerebral Paola Hernandez is considering “the intersection between the physical and the spiritual” in a deceptively simplistic capsule collection called “Meeting Point.” Indeed, there is dichotomy throughout, whether it is manifested in solids as a metaphor for the material/tangible or sheers representing clarity. It’s visible in fluid silhouettes created from soft, light fabrics and the designer’s clunk-yish oxfords, pumps and moccasins shoes. In such an intellectual milieu models insouciantly sit and recline on chaise lounges, sipping a cocktail of hibiscus flower, tea and tequila or reading Albert Camus’ “The Stranger.”

The General Idea Spring 2012 collection includes some ideas that a number of men may not embrace. More on that shortly. Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

BEST USE OF COLOR – “Mexican Mamas” such as the painter, Frida Kahlo (who was wonderfully depicted in the 2002 film, “Frida” starring Salma Hayek) inform Mara Hoffman for Spring 2012. In a collection of maxi dresses, pants, tops and new shapes that are marked by intermittent beading, embroidery and weaving, it is the colors that make a bold statement. Without the color, this would be an unremarkable collection. However, MH has a keen eye and sense of color. Incidentally, the prints were made in-house. The pinks, reds, turquoises and secondary colors of one sleeveless maxi dress are very muscular. Deep and bold they are, commanding the attention without uttering a word or casting about for light to draw attention to themselves. It is difficult to avert the gaze. The color scheme extends to the chunky, tiered mulit-colored necklaces, too. They speak most emphatically of Mexico. Such a necklace presented with a simple black halter gown makes for a stunning ensemble.

BEST HAIR – Hands down it is Falguni & Shane Peacock. On some heads the myriad hairpins, whether black or gold are arranged like fingerwaves. What a sight! How clever. Very inventive and artistic. The trivia question of the day is how many hairpins did it take to create that ‘do? 50? 200? Keep guessing.

Color plays a big role in the Mara Hoffman Spring 2012 collection. Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images.

FROM THE HORSE’S MOUTH – Backstage at Nicole Miller there is Richie Rich (Heatherette). Hugs and kisses, he drops his little bombshell, now he takes a sip of Champagne (or is this simply sparkling wine from Oregon). “We decided today that we’re having a show Tuesday, says RR, nodding at the handsome young man standing beside him whom he introduced as his partner (business or life, it’s not clear). “It’s at Lavo (http://www.lavony.com/). You have to come.”

After last year’s spectacle with Ellen Degeneres, ballerinas, a dominatrix, and sundry other entertainments – indeed, one must come.

On deck today, Day 3: Ruffian, Lacoste, Pink Tartan, Jill Stuart, Son Jung Wan, Adam, Vivienne Tam, Farah Angsana, Honor, Charlotte Ronson, Monique Lhuillier, Rafael Cennamo, Eva Minge, Venexiana

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