Monday, September 9, 2013

MBFW Day 4: Attention, Please. Class Is About to Start.

HEAD’S UP: It's Fashion Week, baby! Who's ready? We're ready! And we have a slight tweak to share. Of course, we still endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly&Co. witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. The tweak has been inspired by Twitter. The coverage will focus, as has become the custom, on what truly inspires or what is so painfully hideous that it is remarkable. However, we will tell that story in 50 words or less. Yes, 50. Or less. Ready? Let the games begin ...

Day 4
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Band of Outsiders, Creatures of Comfort, Custo Barcelona, Delpozo, Designer's Review, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Edun, Emerson, Giulietta, Jeremy Lang, Joanna Mastroianni, Lela Rose, Mark McNairy New Amsterdam, Patrik Ervell, Ralph Rucci, Richard Seco, Thakoon, Threeasfour, Tracy Reese, Trina Turk, Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Tam, Y-3, Yigal Azrouel, Zac Posen

AS the week marches on the talent swells. A moment of the master class (Ralph Rucci, Custo Barcelona, Joanna Mastroianni) and stalwart veterans (Vivienne Tam, Tracy Reese, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY). It was a fine day.

Custo Barcelona

Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

A feminine side this season, most notable in chiffon and shifts and jackets with more construction. The signature print motif informs every stitch in varying degrees. Men are an afterthought. Annoyingly generic club music. Not the best stuff from Custo Dalmau, but some pretty good stuff, nevertheless. It's a print. - YOURS TRULY

Diane von Furstenberg
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

THE collection is called Oasis. To that end, the fit of the clothes is loose and easy; the fabrics non-fussy and travel-ready like the jet-setter they attract. Colors more muted than bright. Innovative? No, but solid and eye-pleasing. With NAOMI bringing up the rear. - YOURS TRULY

Photos by Neil Wolfson and Arun Nevader/Getty Images.

THE most interesting outfits are op art-oriented. Black and white and somewhat optically obnoxious but still eye-catching. Toward the end of the show, gowns have interesting, multi-tiered floral motifs. Large bouquets in the hair that kind of rock my world. The soundtrack is Ramones punk rock. It is a very youthful collection, wearable by no one older than 25. - NEIL WOLFSON

Joanna Mastroianni
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

ISN'T it a piece of heaven to witness a master crafter at work? Pay attention, students and designer wannabes. Take notes. Watch. Learn. (See the video at top). - YOURS TRULY

Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

A retrospective, marking 25 years of the label. (The afterparty is tonight!). Streetwear, where it all started. Good memory lane stuff. It would have been really grew-vay if Donna Karan had pressed Naomi into service. And why not bring CHRISTY, LINDA and the rest of the gang, too. Fun! Yes! - YOURS TRULY

Tracy Reese
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

THRIFT shop chic. That's the notion that the mind keeps revisiting as this Afro Cuban-influenced tableau is presented. Nifty frocks a body can't find any and everywhere. Equally striking is the awkwardness of many of the models in trying to radiate sensuality and energy that supposedly infuses the collection. Acting classes. - YOURS TRULY

Trina Turk
Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

TOOK a big toke of Trina Turk. Easy-breezy California cool resortwear with floral motifs. Pure fun; little substance. Nothing grabs this eye. I am wearing a TT sports coat that no one seems to notice - not that I am an exhibitionist … Rock on, Trina. - NEIL WOLFSON

Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

STREET cred provided by pulsing cacophony of eight percussionists and a little bit of everything. Black, white, ombre rainbow, muted camo, feather in her hair and fabulous basketball sneakers: blackest canvas and pure white sole. Yohji Yamamoto's drum solo finale. Yes, meaningless. Yes, excitement. - MARIE T. DRISCOLL

Zac Posen
Photos by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images.

BEAUTIFUL gowns (and a few dresses). Exquisite, really. For another age, not this shabby one. How else to describe them: rococo? Baroque? Yes! Soldier on, Zac. Hopefully, the Hollywood starlets will appreciate your hard work and wear it best. - YOURS TRULY

Ralph Rucci
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

FROM the program notes: 'It is very important to show what the human hand can do. Ralph Rucci, from the David Boatman film, 'Ralph Rucci: A Designer and His House'" … After the show, a standing ovation. Does that not say it all? - YOURS TRULY

On Deck today, Day 5: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Adam Lippes, Alice + Olivia, Araks, Assembly, Barbara Tfank, Carolina Herrera, Concept Korea, Czar by Cesar Galindo, Donna Karan New York, Falguni and Shane Peacock, Hache, Holmes & Yang, Karen Walker, Kaufmanfranco, Libertine, Maki Oh, Mathieu Mirano, Ohne Titel, Ovadia & Sons, Pamella Roland, Reem Acra, Rosie Assoulin, Theyskens' Theory, Thom Browne, Tim Coppens, Tommy Hilfiger, Tribune Standard, Victoria, Victoria Beckham, Zero + Maria Cornejoe

Visit to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

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