Thursday, September 8, 2016

NYFW: Riffing About Spring 2017 Trends, Which Leads to Pondering Tales of Maria's Bag and the Sustainability Informing Nicholas K. Elsewhere, the Notion of Jeans for Refugees Is a Capital Idea! Finally, Salivating Over Zang Toi on (Papyrus) Paper.

Top model Coco Mitchell with the Domina Mini satchel from the Spring 2017 Maria's Bag collection. Photo from BFA.


are the trends for Spring 2017?,” a woman at this reporter’s gym asked a few days ago, speaking of New York Fashion Week?

It took a few beats for my mind to make the necessary pivot and inform her that NYFW had not yet started. But here we are today, on Day 1 of NYFW, which now encompasses New York Fashion Week: The Shows, Style Fashion Week, FTL Moda, Style 360 and several other outfits showcasing mainly frocks in a cooperative style.

Does one still think of trends? Of course, one supposes, though we currently exist in a cultural moment of laissez faire, at least in the West, particularly in the United States.

In any case, by Day 3, trends may begin to emerge, particularly around color and accents. My personal focus tends toward the craft, craftiness, wiliness and wizardy (or lack thereof) of each collection, especially if it is tied to a point of reference.

These jeans are on the auction block. Photo from Jeans for Refugees website.

A few days ago Maria’s Bag showed its SS2017 collection, a sophomore effort. It is a fetching handbag collection created by model and former Miss Guatemala, Alida Boer. There was no particular inspiration or trend other than the use of the intricate Guatemalen huipil fabric on every handbag and the few ponchos, the work of Guatemalan women AB seeks to empower.

Like a Persian rug, each print tells a story steeped in Mayan culture and folklore. The overall effect is rather attractive, particularly the green/blue/purple mosaic, if a tad overdone and costumey on occasion.

At Nicholas K,which by tradition the last few years has opened NYFW: The Shows, the siblings Kunz find inspiration from a protected desert region in Jordan. The collection will include garments made from sustainable materials.

All things considered, taupe and white can be depended upon; dark colors may may tend toward khaki or iterations of red. Layers will abound and fluidity is a certainty.

Jeans for Refugees (also today) makes its bow in New York after Berlin. The trend is to make the world a better place. On the catwalk, jeans donated by 100 celebrities – and painted by multimedia artist Johny Dar – from the worlds of fashion, film, musi and art. Among the donors are Benicio del Toro, Elle McPherson, Elton John, Lars von Trier, Pedro Almodovar, Twiggy and Usher.

The jeans are being auctioned online during the 100-day period from 22 July to 30 October. All one hundred pairs will be exhibited 24-30 Oct. at London's Saatchi Gallery. Proceeds will go to the International Rescue Committee, which helps refugees around the world (; ...

From the Zang Toi Collection at Papyrus. Photo from Papyrus website.

One of the most anticipated shows each fashion week is that of Zang Toi, owing to the mastery of this shy craftsman and the breathtaking manifestations of his themes. It is customary for applause to erupt throughout his shows. Alas, anticipation must fester until Tuesday, 13 Sept. or Day 6.

Interestingly, the most burning question concerning Spring 2017 is not what Toi will show. The collection is themed “Glorious Giverny Garden” (as in Monet's).

What inquiring minds want to know is whether the coveted ZT gift bag will contain any Zang Toi-themed Papyrus product. A couple weeks or so ago, the design house became the first (along with Lela Rose) to collaborate with a greeting card company to create a custom collection based on runway looks.

A tunic from the Maria's Bag Spring 2017 collection. Photo from BFA.

“It was love at first sight with Team Papyrus,” the Malaysian designer said. “The chemistry was so strong during our first meeting, I knew we would have a lot of fun creating a fabulous collection of greeting cards that both Papyrus and House of Toi fans will adore.”

ZT has produced 24 cards and two boxed notes. They feature such accents as beading, textured fabrics and feathers. The collection has been available online, but this week will also be available at all New York City Papyrus stores and select retailers. (

Asked point blank whether any Papyrus will be in the bag, ZT’s cheeky spokesman kept it cryptic: “We will find out on Sept 13th,:).”

Ah, the mystery of fashion.
From the Zang Toi Collection at Papyrus. Photo from Papyrus website.

On deck today, Day 1: Malan Breton, K. Rashae, Nikki Lund, Dextrose, Eddie Eddie by Billy Ton, Nicholas K, Noon by Noor, Charles Youssef, Ohlin/D,Brock Collection, Nora Gardner, Creatures of the Wind, Timon Weiland, Hellessy, Marissa Webb, Creatures of Comfort, Supima Ninth Annual Design Competition, Jeffrey Taylor, Jeans for Refugees, Josie Natori, Ulla Johnson, Adam Selman, Thakoon, Phelan, Yuna Yang, TELFAR, Archana Kochhar, LO Live OnTop, Harx4, Marlene H Couture, Responsive Textiles, Sonja Tafelmeier, Shock and Awww, Chasa IDT, Dress Haute, Fllumae, LeVico, Vaishali

Visit us on YouTube at WRIGHT WREPORT, Twitter at @WrightWreport and on Instagram at @thewrightwreport for additional coverage of New York Fashion Week. Visit the following websites to learn more about NYFW, including show information, installations, videos and livestreaming:

New York Fashion Week: The Shows

Style 360

Style Fashion Week

Art Hearts Fashion

FTL Moda

Fashion Gallery

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