Monday, February 16, 2015

@MB/NYFW Day 4: Negris LeBrum Says It Loud; 2 Words for Carmen Marc Valvo; En Forme at David Tlale; Custo Barcelona Is Less Than

From the Negris LeBrum Fall-Winter 2015 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.

HEADS UP: It's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2015. At VEVLYN'S PEN, fashion commentary will roll out as it did in September: Each day one (perhaps two) designer/label will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy.

SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere, Day 4: Bobby Abley, B. Olivacee, Carmen Marc Valvo, Chloe Gosselin, Custo Barcelona, David Tlale, Derek Lam, Devon HL, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Dree Collection, Edun Etxeberria, Franco Lacosta, FTL Moda, Grungy Gentleman, Hood, JM Couture, Laurel DeWitt, LM by Leanne Marshall, Negris LeBrum, Opening Ceremony, Porsche Design, Prabal Gurung, Pret-a-Porter, Public School, Ranfan, Rochambeau, Thaddeus O'Neill, Thakoon, Tim Coppens, Tracy Reese, Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Hu, Yigal Azrouel, Zoe Jordan

SHE is very confident. She is very passionate. She does what she wants. She is, “Loved by many, admired by all. She's elegantly perceived.”

In essence, this is the Negris LeBrum woman. Houston-based designer Travis Hamilton, who designs the line, said in a post-show interview at the Stollway Event Space, that the fall-winter 2015 collection is inspired by the label's “slogan,” the supreme truth that black is beautiful (Le noir est joli; see video above).

“Our whole collection is based off the color black. We go from the color black, to the lighter and darker shades of gray.”

To that end, the collection is black-centric with support from white and gray. And a bodacious orange, portending things to come, TH said. (See video below).

These are frocks that whisper, rather than announce themselves loudly.

TH, who is has been doing this 15 years or more – not 15 minutes (note to self) – says the woman really does make these clothes. “The way she walks. The way she talks. Her mannerisms … her personality.”

Are these showstoppers? Must they be required to be? Certainly, these competent, confident creations command the attention.

Visit to learn more about Negris LeBrum.


Elegant. Classy. One keeps toggling between these two adjectives to describe the fall-winter 2015 collection. It is informed by school. Consequently, sparkle is imparted to professorial tweed and school-uniform tartan. Checkered and striped fur suggests sports uniforms. The illusion series – organza paired with a nonsheer, giving the impression of exposed skin – just looks smart.


Forget about unappealing brownish print bled onto opening series. Focus solely on shapes. Now, observe that shape of print series and entire collection – created by pleating, draping and folding – is stunning. Do also note the fine finish achieved by fusing frocks from different cultures.


More is more. Less is more. A colleague and I agree. Here is less. Solids are granted more space. There is a marked decrease in print combinations. An uptick of plaid is observed … Elsewhere, a couple of conspicuously bright-colored affairs on the women's side. Party crashers? Throw them out!

On deck today, Day 5: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Adeam, Alice + Olivia, Angel Sanchez, Barbara Tfank, Black'D, Brock Collection, Carolina Herrera, Dennis Basso, Donna Karan New York, Eckhaus Latta, Heimstone, Houghton, Karen Walker, Landeros New York, La Petite Robe Di Chiara Boni, Libertine, Milly by Michelle Smith, Nicopanda, Oudifu, Ovadia & Sons, Pamella Roland, Patrik Ervell, Rag & Bone, Ready to Fish, Reem Acra, Row Assoulin, Taoray Wang, Thom Browne, Tommy Hilfiger, The Row, The White Space, Veronica Beard, Vivienne Tam, Yeohlee, Zac Posen, Zero + Maria Cornejo

Visit to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

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