Crown Jewels and Other Baubles in 'The Art of Cartier'

The Flamingo Brooch was designed by two very stylish women. Image courtesy of Nils Herrmann, Collection Cartier.

IT is a collage of calibrated sapphires, rubies and emeralds and was born of a collaboration between Wallis, Duchess of Windsor and Jeanne Toussiant, director of Fine Jewelry at Cartier.

The item in question is the Flamingo Brooch. It is among hundreds of pieces of jewelry, timepieces and other precious objects in the new “The Art of Cartier” (El Arte de Cartier) exhibit at Madrid’s Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. The exhibit is on view through 17 Feb. 2013.

Elizabeth Taylor wearing the Ruby and Diamond Necklace. Photo courtesy of Photofest, The Cartier Collection.

The brooch and the 400-plus other objects in The Art of Cartier” are on loan from the famed Cartier Collection. It also has the further distinction of being seen for the first time in a Cartier Collection anywhere. The collection is a traveling show of items begged, borrowed, bought (but not stolen, we’re sure) from the jeweler’s most wealthy, prominent and aristocratic clients and/or their estates and at auction.

The platinum tiara that once belonged to Spain's Victoria Eugenia is now worn on occasion by Queen Sofia. Photo courtesy of Casa Real.

Also on view for the first time as part of the Cartier Collection is the Diamond and Ruby Parure Tiara that Princess Grace of Monaco wears in her official portrait. It was a gift from her husband Prince Rainier III. The Ruby and Diamond Necklace that Elizabeth Taylor is wearing in a 1958 photo taken in Las Vegas was gifted to her by then-husband Mike Todd. It sold for $3.7 million last year at the history-making “The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor” auctions at Christie’s (http://www.bit.ly/VyqWq8). It is also new to the Cartier Collection.

Though the roughly 23-year-old Cartier Collection has been a traveling exhibition since it journeyed to the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg in 1992, its installation at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum marks the first time that it has been to Spain. In 1904, Cartier became the official jewelry supplier to the royal court. One object it created is the Garland-style Tiara gifted to Queen Victoria Eugenia by King Alfonso XIII in 1920. The platinum tiara has round old- and rose-cut diamonds and eight pearls. Today, Queen Sofia wears it at official events.

The Crocodile Necklace converts into brooches. Photo courtesy of Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection.

Among the more exotic pieces in “The Art of Cartier” are two necklaces designed specifically for irrepressible Mexican actress María Félix. The Snake Necklace is made from platinum, white gold and yellow gold, 2,473 brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, two pear-shape emeralds (eyes) and green, red and black enamel. (See video above of actress wearing necklace during interview on Spanish television.)

The official portrait of Princess Grace of Monaco. Photo courtesy of G. Lukomski and Archives of the Prince’s Palace of Monaco.

The reptile lover and major film star from the late ‘40s to the late ’50, was also the owner of the Crocodile Necklace. This affair in gold has 1,023 brilliant cut fancy intense yellow diamonds, two navette-shaped emerald eyes (for a total of 1,060 emeralds) and two ruby eyes. The Crocodile Necklace, featuring two crocs, is actually a convertible piece. The crocs can be worn separately as a brooch or together as a necklace. Around the neck, the feet can be replaced by clawless paws to prevent scratching and other irritants to the skin.

The Egyptian Striking Clock is bedecked with 15 jewels. Photo courtesy of Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection.

In the non-jewelry category (but not without jewels) in “The Art of Cartier” is the Egyptian Striking Clock. It was sold in the late 1920s to Florence Blumenthal wife of George Blumenthal, head of Lazard Ltd. nee Lazard Frères & Co., a Wall Street investment bank. Some of the actual clock features include a rectangular eight-day movement, striking mechanism (hour and quarter-hour), three adjustments, bimetallic balance and Breguet balance spring.

The clock is gold and silver-gilt and has a number of markings, including mother of pearl plaques carved with hieroglyphs and an Egyptian deity set with emerald, cornelian and enamel. It has, a lapis lazuli base and top, as well as polychrome and white enamel.

Last but not least, the clock is embedded with 15 jewels.

Visit http://www.museothyssen.org/en/thyssen/home to learn more about “The Art of Cartier”; visit http://www.bitly.com/XdOmBH to learn more about “The Cartier Collection.

In 'The Iron Lady,' a Great Actress and a Grand Dame

Meryl Streep as UK Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher in "The Iron Lady." Photo by Alex Bailey, Courtesy of Pathe Productions Ltd.

WHAT is it about Meryl Streep and her extraordinary ability to portray fascinating women with pinpoint accuracy.

The list is impressive: Karen Blixen (“Out of Africa”), Vogue editor Anna Wintour (“The Devil Wears Prada”), Top Chef Julia Child (“Julia & Julia”). And now, Margaret Hilda Thatcher, Baroness Thatcher.

“The Iron Lady” chronicles the life of MT, particularly her near-meteoric rise and reign as the first and so far the only female Prime Minister of the United Kingdom. The film premieres in U.S. theaters today.

MS is often heralded as the greatest U.S. actress of all time. Perhaps she has garnered such praise because she effortless owns a character mind, body and soul. If she is the finest actress this young country has produced to date, that is indeed impressive. Lesser greats would include Joan Crawford, Bette Davis (MS’ film idol), Katharine Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor.

Without doubt, in “The Iron Lady” MS is MT. Makeup notwithstanding, she bears a striking resemblance to this shopkeeper’s daughter. Her moniker, “woman of a thousand accents,” serves her well in this role, too. She nails MT’s speech patterns with barely a syllable out of place. Her performance goes beyond diction, however, to facial ticks, body language and the rhythm of her pantherlike movements. Watching MS do MT is like watching the lady herself whose legendary will was as flinty as they come, hence her moniker. (See trailers at: http://www.bit.ly/zSX47l and http://www.bit.ly/yKQ9rN).

“The Iron Lady” has been eagerly anticipated – MT, though now in her 80s and sickly remains a controversial figure more loathed than loved – and many thought MS would knock this one out of the park. It seems she has, earning a nod in the best actress category on just about every leading critics list. On Monday, she won the New York Film Critics Circle Awards prize for best actress.

“The Iron Lady” had a limited release in December to qualify for Academy Award consideration. The only surprise would be if MS’ name isn’t listed in the best actress category. It would represent her 17th nomination, another reason she is considered the nation’s finest actress. Her closest competition is KH (12). If MS wins it would be her third. KH has four and the designation as the most Oscar-decorated actress. As incredible as it may seem, MS last took home the statuette nearly 20 years ago, in 1982 for “Sophie’s Choice.”

Awards aside, the actress gives another stellar performance in “The Iron Lady” and has been the subject of most of the buzz. It takes a village, though, doesn't it? She has strong support, particularly from Jim Broadbent as the older Denis Thatcher, MT’s husband and campaign contributor.

"The Iron Lady” is rated PG-13 for some violent images and brief nudity.

At Christie's, 'The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor'

The Elizabeth Taylor collection of jewelry, fine arts, textiles, fashions, etc. is on display and will be auctioned at Christie's. Photos courtesy of Christie's.

THE great late Elizabeth Taylor is as famous for myriad marriages as she is for iconic film roles as she is for her eye-popping jewelry collection.

The latter has arrived in New York after a several months-long mini world tour in time for the exhibition, “The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor,” that opened Saturday at Christie’s and shutters on 12 Dec. The jewels, along with decorative arts, film memorabilia, costumes and couture pieces, are to be sold over four days in five online and offline auctions at Christie’s commencing on 13 Dec.

The auctions are broken down in categories under the “Collection” rubric:
The Legendary Jewels, Evening Sale (I), 13 Dec.
Jewelry (II), 14 Dec.
The Icon and her Haute Couture, Evening Sale (III), 14 Dec.
Fashion and Accessories (IV), 15 Dec.
Fine and Decorative Art & Film Memorabilia, including costumes (V), 16 Dec.


A tiara befitting a queen of cinema.

This will be no ordinary exhibit or auctions, of the jewelry in particular, for two reasons. First, ET is an iconic figure. Second, because she is well-known for having a keen eye for good jewelry (and art) her collection is thought to be by those in the know one of the best private collections ever to be auctioned.

“From her most jaw-dropping diamonds, gems, and one-of-a-kind historic jewels, to cherished ‘It's Tuesday, I love you gifts’, and never-before-seen keepsakes, Elizabeth Taylor's magnificent collection of jewels promises to captivate the auction world this fall, Marc Porter, Chairman and President of Christie's Americas said in a press release before the jewels made their first stop in Moscow.

The emerald set is among the pieces and ensembles of jewelry that Elizabeth Taylor received from Richard Burton.

Continues MP, “This is without a doubt the greatest private collection of jewelry ever assembled in one place, and Christie's is honored to have been entrusted with the global tour of the collection this fall, and the sale of the collection in its entirety this December.”

Indeed, it is an eye-popping, jaw dropping collection. If not the centerpiece, quite near it is the famed Bvlgari Emerald Suite (Est.: nearly $4 million) from two-time spouse Richard Burton. It comprises a necklace, pendant, ring, bracelet and earrings. From another husband is the Mike Todd Diamond Tiara (Est.: $60K-$80K) reportedly for the director’s “queen.” ET wore the tiara to the 1957 Academy Awards in Los Angeles where MT’s “Around the World in 80 Days" won the Best Picture statuette.

The Valentino gown in signature red is one of many couture pieces that the designer created specifically for the actor.

Another gift from RB, who probably presented ET with more jewelry than any other man in her life, is the 8.24 carat Richard Burton Ruby and Diamond Ring (Est.: upward of $1.5 million). It was designed by Van Cleef & Arpels, which earlier this year staged an exhibition that included ET jewelry. (http://www.ow.ly/7XhZy)

According to Christie’s, the 269 pieces of jewelry are expected to fetch “well in excess of” $30 million. On the auction block will be more than 2,000 items, including the nonjewelry items for which Christie’s has not disclosed a fetching price. For the first time in the history of the auction house, Christie’s will accept online bids.

Roughly half of the items in “The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor” will be available for online bidding. A portion of profits from admissions, events and select publications related to the sales will be donated to the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation (ETAF, http://www.elizabethtayloraidsfoundation.org/).

An autographed photo from Elizabeth Taylor's most famous friend.

In The Icon and her Haute Couture is another treasure-trove utterly worthy of an exhibition. The actor was a close friend and big customer of Valentino. Among her purchases is a red gown; not doubt it matched RB’s ruby and diamond ring or his Ruby and Diamond Necklace (Est. up to $3 million) from Cartier.

David Hockneys and Andy Warhols figure among the items in the Fine and Decorative Art & Film Memorabilia category, as well as a Michael Jackson (Est.: $2K-$3K). The photo by Jim Yuckich is from the cover of the single, “Liberian Girl.” It is signed “To My True Love Elizabeth, I love you forever, Michael Jackson!.”

A sale of the actor-activist’s Impressionist & Modern Art is planned for February at Christie’s London.

Visit http://www.christies.com/elizabethtaylor to learn more about “The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor,” including admission to the exhibit.