Thoroughbreds: A Tale of Two Vineyards, Part 2

On the grounds of the Jacuzzi Family Vineyards is an olive press, above, where tastings are among the events. Photos from Jacuzzi Family Vineyards.

BY TAMARA FISH

IN yesterday’s segment, Cline Cellars Zinfandel was the subject of the first tale. (See: http://www.vevlynspen.com/2011/02/zin-tale-of-two-vineyards-part-1.html)

Today, the focus is on some beautiful wines produced by Jacuzzi Family Vineyards.

Remember that Posner Fruit Spread commercial, the one in which people fainted at the dinner table because – horrors! – someone dared to call it “jelly?” Well, that’s how territorial ancient wine regions can get about their wines.

So territorial in fact, that long before the European Union was formed governments independently regulated the official recognition of specific wine regions, generally called “appellations” or “denominations.” A French vineyard might produce a sparkling wine but wouldn’t dare call it “Champagne” unless it was produced in the Champagne terroir (region) of France. The Champagne appellation is protected.

By contrast, the tradition of appellations in the Americas is a relatively recent development. American viniculture itself is only a few hundred years old, as opposed to being as old as the dead Greeks and Romans. The U.S. government only began officially recognizing American Vinicultural Areas (AVAs) in 1983!

A Neptune fountain overlooks the vineyard at Jacuzzi.

AVAs. Haven’t heard of them? You’re not the only one. Give it another 50 years or so and that might make all the difference. (The über-geeky should check out the official comprehensive list of appellations by country: http://www.ttb.gov/appellation/)

Why does this matter? North American winemakers do not face the same stringent restrictions as their European counterparts. No particular region is known as the dedicated terroir of a grape. If the soil can handle it, grow a Pinot in Napa, a Zin in Oregon, and then rip them out and try something else just for giggles. Well, probably not. Vine cultivation is not cheap and the grapes are more temperamental than cats.

In America, it is entirely possible to specialize in hearty indigenous Zins on one side of the road and exquisite Italian varietals, including Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Nero d’Avola, and the rare Aleatico, on the other.

And thus continues A Tale of Two Vineyards.

JACUZZI FAMILY VINEYARDS
Named in homage to Frank Cline’s Italian grandfather (and yes, this is the same family behind the Jacuzzi tubs), Jacuzzi pays tribute not only to an Italian style of winemaking, but also to Italian varietals themselves. Many of the grapes come from grafts grown in Italy. Jacuzzi prides itself on making a true Italianate wine in America, hence the villa.

The villa is not vanity; it sets the tone. Walking across the fountained courtyard into the foyer is like being transported to Italy without a passport. Don’t tell customs! Olive-tasting and a boutique store are off to the right. To the left is a generous tasting room with a truly knowledgeable staff. I especially recommend Fred Vallerga, whose love for wine and all things Italian sparked a second career; his pride in Jacuzzi wines is infectious.

Detail shot of the label of the 2009 Montepulciano. The label on all Jacuzzi wines feature a photo of the grandparents of Frank Cline, the vineyard's owner.

Jacuzzi’s Italian-style wines are quite different than Cline’s. Think about it this way –while a Zin will always have something of the wild mustang about it, Jacuzzi’s wines are cultivated thoroughbreds.

Imagine wines that are far less fruity and sweet (dry). Keep the heartiness and watch carefully as different tastes suggest themselves long after the sip has gone (layers of complexity, long finish, heartiness). To this, add an immense respect for the grape – capturing the special characteristics of the varietals, either standing alone or blended into wonderful versions of classics.

Let me suggest three gorgeous wines:
2008 Sagrantino. Don’t let the barest hint of berry cause confusion. The Sagrantino varietal is not Zin’s kissing cousin. Undertones of thyme and an ever-so-slight tangy edge (soft tannins) balance the sweetness beautifully, making for a quietly elegant wine. $28

2009 Montepulciano. Silver Medalist in the 2011 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Jacuzzi’s Montepulciano sports undertones of nutmeg and berry on the one hand, and a coffee finish on the other, while still remaining remarkably dry. It is a full-flavored wine without the heaviness and its food pairing possibilities are endless: grilled vegetables to game and many points in between. $24

2008 Sagrantino

2008 Late Harvest Aleatico. According to FV, of the 20 acres of Aleatico that exist in the world, 16 grow in Italy and the remaining four grow here. That in and of itself should be enough to recommend this exquisite dessert wine. Exploding with flavors, Aleatico reveals violet on the nose and a touch of raisin on the palate. It is reminiscent of some dessert Sherries but without the added fortification. $32

Do not even think of serving Jacuzzi wines with everyday pasta, pizza or leftover takeout. The wine will march out of the glass, go back in the bottle, recork itself, and sulk until someone who really appreciates its uniqueness coaxes it out again.

Jacuzzi and Cline. Two entirely different approaches to wine. Two entirely different approaches to varietals. Several well-produced wines from one very small region, but don’t call it a terroir.

What’s the moral of A Tale of Two Vineyards? For American wines, forget the issue of terroir. If the wine drinks well, what’s it to ya?

Next time: Sake for its own sake.

Learn more about Cline Cellars at http://www.clinecellars.com/, and Jacuzzi Family Vineyards at http://www.jacuzziwines.com/. Both vineyards ship to most places throughout the United States. For international shipments, contact them directly.

Zin: A Tale of Two Vineyards, Part 1

Exterior shot, above, of tasting room at Cline Cellars. Photos from Cline Cellars.

BY TAMARA FISH

SO the French wine cask says to the American wine, "Eh bebe, where
are you from?" To which the wine replies, "What's it to ya?"

That, in a nutshell, explains two different perspectives about land and region and winemaking.

Long story short, before a scenic detour to a couple of vineyards. Many countries with extensive wine traditions (and I mean a millennia of wine production) developed systems of classifying not only the wines, but also the regions that produce them. A good sense of the region can tell much about the wine itself. That’s why any good wine store further sub-classifies the wines of many countries. For instance, French into Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhône, etc., and Italian into Piedmont, Umbria, Tuscany, etc.

Why all this fuss over regions? It’s mostly about dirt.What’s the dirt on wine? Not gossip. The actual real soil. Dirt is a rather complex compound, filled with different mineral qualities and water quantities. The type of soil greatly shapes the character of the wine. After a millennia of wine-making (and enough red wine hangovers to keep country music busy for centuries), the Europeans have their regions down to a science.

The Carignane grape is a blending grape that the vineyards at Cine Cellars yield a small quantity of each harvest.

By contrast, wine making in the Americas – that is, from Canada to Chile – is relatively new (only a few hundred years old). American winemakers are still finding out what the soil can do, having delightful fun with grape production, experimenting with blending different varietals, and basically seeing by trial and error what works and what doesn’t.

That’s why the American wine can say to the French cask, “What’s it to ya?” For now, it’s all about the grape, and not the specially designated region. Not convinced? Then consider this case in point:

A TALE OF TWO VINEYARDS
Along a rather non-descript country road in Northern California, an Italianate villa – Jacuzzi Family Vineyards – incongruously rises from the flat arid land. Across the street, tucked behind a longish driveway is a farmhouse, converted into something resembling a country store – Cine Cellars – that just happens to sell wine.

2008 Bridgefield Zinfandel

Looks are deceiving. Like “The Patty Duke Show,” they are related, even closer than cousins. The Cline family owns both vineyards. Cline Cellars is the first vineyard that Frank Cline created. Jacuzzi is the second.

Why two vineyards? The original one, Cline, partly specializes in Zinfandels, a grape indigenous to the American West but related to the varietal Primitivo. Jacuzzi, in contrast, specializes in Italian varietals, including Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Nero d’Avola, and the rare Aleatico. Two vineyards – one small area – producing entirely different types of wines. American viniculture. Ya gotta love it!

In this installment, a closer look at Zinfandel.

Cline Cellars’ Zinfandel: A Cut Above
Until about 20 years ago, Zinfandel, often called “Zin” for short, was not considered to be, shall we say, a fine grape. While the wines they produced looked great, bearing a deep plum color, they often very smelled strongly of blackberry (blackberry nose). The first sips often tasted on the sweet side with more of a fruit-juice effect than that of a well-fermented wine (fruit forward, jammy). There were few other flavors to detect (lacked complexity).

2008 Big Break Zinfandel

Zins nevertheless tended to bite back and demand recognition (hearty). A fruity, sweet, hearty wine? Not exactly a good fit for pizza, bad barbecue, or even burgers. Zins got no respect, until expert winemakers tamed the rough edges, tampered the sweetness, and smoothed out the jamminess.

Enter vineyards such as Cline Cellars. Cline produces masterful Zinfandels. The basic characteristics of a Zin comes through – the nose and taste of blackberry, the heartiness and a relatively high alcohol content (14 percent) – but instead of swilling spiked blackberry-grape juice, imagine a well-made wine.

The beauty of the Cline Zins is their wonderful aftertaste (long lingering finish). Subtle flavors come through (undertones), reminiscent of spices, which seem to take on different characteristics for a full minute after tasting (unfolds, reveals). The combination of heartiness, long lingering finish, and undertones that continually unfold make for engaging wines (good complexity). Cline Zins are designed to go with food: a well-aged cheese, charcoal grilled steaks or roasted lamb.

Two Zins of note:
2008 Bridgefield Zinfandel. A substantial wine, this Zin sports the traditional blackberry undertones, but also carries with it a touch of vanilla and nutmeg. $28.

2008 Syrah

2008 Big Break Zinfandel. A bear of a wine, add sage and cardamom undertones to the usual blackberry, and stand back. The tannins are soft enough, but the wine’s richness will knock you for a loop. $30.

[Bonus: Not a Zin, but a Syrah of note is the 2008 Syrah.
Imagine a Syrah approaching a Pinot Noir - bone dry with a touch of woodsiness from the cask. A steal at $12.]

Stay tuned: In tomorrow’s installment, the wonders of Jacuzzi’s Italianate wine.

Learn more about Cline Cellars at http://www.clinecellars.com/, and Jacuzzi Family Vineyards at http://www.jacuzziwines.com/. Both vineyards ship to most places throughout the United States. For international shipments, contact them directly.