Thursday, September 10, 2009

Best of Show, Day 1: Bold Colors and Draping

Mauve silver sleeveless dress with folds on front and back from the Ports 1961 Spring 2010 collection. Photo courtesy of RTW.

HEAD'S UP: The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Mind, this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because I can’t be everywhere:o( But depend on it, I’ll do my best. Drum roll, please …

The Players (tents)
Michael Angel, BCBGMaxAzria, Davidelfin, Duckie Brown, Mara Hoffman, Nicholas K, Whitney Eve, Ports 1961, Rosa Cha

The Players (elsewhere)
Tiffany Koury, Cesar Galindo

Ports 1961 — Perhaps it stood apart because it is a collaboration of shoe designer Julia Lundsten, fabric maker Ritsuko Hirai and designer Tia Cibani. Carl Sandburg's "Flux," in part, informs the show:

Sand of the seas runs red
Where the sunset reaches and quivers
Sand of the sea runs yellow
Where the moon slants and wavers.

The trio seems to be working from the same storyboard, and they are clearly at peace, for an acute sense of serenity is the strongest message seen in the folds, draping and diaphanous silhouettes. The draping and folds are impeccably executed and breathtaking, particularly on a mauve silver dress, with a maze of folds in front and back. It has about it the look of a piece of sculpture. Difficult to achieve, yet it doesn't look fussy. The North African-born/Vancouver-bred Cibani doubtless was influenced by Hirai's fabrics. She's from Tokyo, and it shows in the kimonos and kimono-inspired pieces, but many of the looks are infused with something that speaks of a place other than Japan, particulary in some of the bold colors: orange, coral and lemon yellow, perhaps North Africa (perhaps not). There is also a smattering of bamboo — vests, purses, belts, necklaces — adding a welcome textural element, which ties in organically with the shoes, many of which look to have bamboo heels. In this collection, beauty, artistry and wearability live in perfect harmony.

Whitney Eve — WARNING: If you are not, say 25 or 28, steer clear of the maxi-mini dresses, skirts and shorts. These are for the young woman, the type who would rock a ponytail like those of the models. Like the hair, the collection is pert, flirty, girlie and as cute as a button. It has no higher aspirations. Need I add that it really helps to have good legs? Even if you are 22!

Tiffany Koury — In her first couture collection in a year, the North Carolina-born designer, true to form, did not skimp on quality in her choice of fabrics. The satin duchess dresses, silk organza mini dresses, w/petal skirts, the silk taffeta dresses with bodacious puffed sleeves, as well as the strapless jade gown in silk charmeuse with an ovelay of silk chiffon and gentle pleating, and accents of antique gold brocade look supple and rich — like a million bucks, but cost a tad bit less.

Rosa Cha — In what may be a trend for Spring 2010 — bold colors — the designer indulges herself, which she can afford to do with swimwear without fear of overkill. The oranges are so bright and sharp, sunglasses are required. The chartreuse is both brilliant and muted.

Nicholas K — The male models wore bouffants, which are puffed-out, but tapered; conversely, the clothes are loose-fitting: slightly oversized jackets, unfitted T-shirts, wide-legged shorts. Here is uptight hair (one could almost see the product keeping each strand in its proper place) and relaxed, carefree clothes — even down to the fabrics: what appears to be cottons and linens, even down to the colors: mostly muted hues. Point. Counterpoint.

Mara Hoffman — The geometric shapes, beach motifs, forest scenes and florals bring an attitude of exuberance and lightheartedness to familiar silhouettes.

Sean Paul on the Rosa Cha show, “I like swimsuits.” Full stop ... Pressed for more details, the singer expressed an appreciation for “the polka dots,” referring to the darts and crystal appliques.

Heather Tom — Yesterday, I ran into "The Bold and the Beautiful" actress at the FIT's Couture Council lunch in honor of Dries van Noten (See post below, " A Designer's Artistry Does Not Go Unnoticed") and today she was sitting on the front row at Tiffany Koury, wearing Diane von Furstenberg at who's table she sat at the DVN lunch. Small world.

A man outside the tents painting a print pattern on the body of a woman who looked naked, except she was wearing a flesh-toned (pink) bra and panties. It's fashion, baby!

No comments :

Post a Comment

Creative Commons License
VEVLYN'S PEN: The Wright take on life by Vevlyn Wright is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License .
Based on a work at .
Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at .