HEADS UP: It's early September and that means one important thing in the ragtrade: fashion trade shows. To that end, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2015. As we at VEVLYN'S PEN endeavor to bring some interesting fashion news to our dear readers, we don't mind changing with the seasons. One small tweak this season, each day one (perhaps two) designers/labels will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy. Thank you for your support!
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere: ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY, ADAM LIPPES, ALEXANDER WANG, ALON LIVNÉ, ALTUZARRA, BAJA EAST, BILLY REID, CHRISTIAN SIRIANO, DESIGNERS’ REVIEW, EDIE PARKER, EVA FEHREN, JILL STUART, KATYA LEONOVICH, KOONHOR, LACOSTE, LIE SANGBONG, LUIS ANTONIO, MALAN BRETON, MAX AZRIA, PRABAL GURUNG, PRISM BY ANNA LAUB, RALPH RUCCI, ROBERT GELLER, SON JUNG WAN, VENEXIANA )
EVERYTHING at Christian Siriano is well-done for Spring-Summer 2015.
The cuts, draping, flow, layering. The fabrics appear to be the very best. This season for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, CS is inspired by the work of two different sculptors.
“I wanted this collection to feel light, clean, and crisp; tranquil like a Japanese zen rock garden, ...” he states in the program notes. (See video of ending procession below).
The Season 4 “Project Runway” winner largely realizes his vision. Take the draping on the crew neck long sleeve dress, it is reminiscent of the sinews of the body, undulating in a way that a sculptor might cast them.
On a few occasions, the treatment is overmuch, not attaining a level of tranquility, but descending into the chaos that is the brocade and crystal beaded series. It's is disorienting, as is the liquid lame.
Perhaps, they are to suggest the glass or liquidity for which the designer is striving. However, more consideration might have been given to scale. Cover a cropped top, for instance, with these appliques rather than the wide leg cropped trouser or front draped long sleeve dress.
The show opens with white lattice-work pieces. They have about them the essence of a “Project Runway” challenge. Though executed well and unlike the fetching striped organza ensembles - also in white - they look more at home on the table or hanging on the shower rod.
The last ensemble, a slightly daring sheer crystal beaded blouse and trouser combo, almost fully captures CS's vision. A sound note to end on.
From the Venexiana Spring-Summer 2015 collection. Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.
AS contributor Neil Wolfson noted in February, “gorgeous gownage.” Designer Kati Stern put the breaks on some of the sequins this season, instead opting for more cutouts. Shimmering fabrics, florals overlaid on organza and pale colors like mauve, mint and marine blue also do some of the heavy lifting that heretofore was the purview of sequins. Snatches of sequins and other sparklers often reside asymmetrically along the plains of the neck.
The effect is stunning, showstopping even.
On Deck today, Day 4: BRANDON SUN, CUSTO BARCELONA, DEREK LAM, DESIGNERS' PREMIERE, HOOD BY AIR, PORSCHE, PUBLIC SCHOOL ROLANDO SANTANA, THAKOON, TIM COPPENS, TRACY REESE, VICTORIA BECKHAM
Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.