MBFW Day 3: Christian Siriano Is Zen, While Venexiana Still Shines With Less Sparkle

Stripped organza blouse and skirt from the Christian Siriano Spring-Summer 2015 collection. Photo from Getty Images.

HEADS UP: It's early September and that means one important thing in the ragtrade: fashion trade shows. To that end, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring 2015. As we at VEVLYN'S PEN endeavor to bring some interesting fashion news to our dear readers, we don't mind changing with the seasons. One small tweak this season, each day one (perhaps two) designers/labels will be singled out for particular notice. That will be the main story (in more than 50 words). Elsewhere, our commentary will remain unchanged. We will continue to put emphasis on the truly inspirational on the runway and will only do a “best of” when it suits in 50 words or less. On some days we will provide a “snapshot” and so on. Finally, we will continue to do the off-runway bizarre, unusual and generally noteworthy. Thank you for your support!

Day 3
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere: ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY, ADAM LIPPES, ALEXANDER WANG, ALON LIVNÉ, ALTUZARRA, BAJA EAST, BILLY REID, CHRISTIAN SIRIANO, DESIGNERS’ REVIEW, EDIE PARKER, EVA FEHREN, JILL STUART, KATYA LEONOVICH, KOONHOR, LACOSTE, LIE SANGBONG, LUIS ANTONIO, MALAN BRETON, MAX AZRIA, PRABAL GURUNG, PRISM BY ANNA LAUB, RALPH RUCCI, ROBERT GELLER, SON JUNG WAN, VENEXIANA )

EVERYTHING at Christian Siriano is well-done for Spring-Summer 2015.

The cuts, draping, flow, layering. The fabrics appear to be the very best. This season for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, CS is inspired by the work of two different sculptors.

“I wanted this collection to feel light, clean, and crisp; tranquil like a Japanese zen rock garden, ...” he states in the program notes. (See video of ending procession below).

The Season 4 “Project Runway” winner largely realizes his vision. Take the draping on the crew neck long sleeve dress, it is reminiscent of the sinews of the body, undulating in a way that a sculptor might cast them.

On a few occasions, the treatment is overmuch, not attaining a level of tranquility, but descending into the chaos that is the brocade and crystal beaded series. It's is disorienting, as is the liquid lame.

Perhaps, they are to suggest the glass or liquidity for which the designer is striving. However, more consideration might have been given to scale. Cover a cropped top, for instance, with these appliques rather than the wide leg cropped trouser or front draped long sleeve dress.

The show opens with white lattice-work pieces. They have about them the essence of a “Project Runway” challenge. Though executed well and unlike the fetching striped organza ensembles - also in white - they look more at home on the table or hanging on the shower rod.

The last ensemble, a slightly daring sheer crystal beaded blouse and trouser combo, almost fully captures CS's vision. A sound note to end on.

SNAPSHOT: VENEXIANA
From the Venexiana Spring-Summer 2015 collection. Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

AS contributor Neil Wolfson noted in February, “gorgeous gownage.” Designer Kati Stern put the breaks on some of the sequins this season, instead opting for more cutouts. Shimmering fabrics, florals overlaid on organza and pale colors like mauve, mint and marine blue also do some of the heavy lifting that heretofore was the purview of sequins. Snatches of sequins and other sparklers often reside asymmetrically along the plains of the neck.

The effect is stunning, showstopping even.

On Deck today, Day 4: BRANDON SUN, CUSTO BARCELONA, DEREK LAM, DESIGNERS' PREMIERE, HOOD BY AIR, PORSCHE, PUBLIC SCHOOL ROLANDO SANTANA, THAKOON, TIM COPPENS, TRACY REESE, VICTORIA BECKHAM

Visit http://www.mbfashionweek.com/new-york to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 3 MBFW: Still No Wow!, But No Yuck! Either

HEAD’S UP: Can you believe it's Fashion Week already? That respite between September and February seems very short, especially since press registration notices started arriving during the crush of the holiday shopping season. In any case, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York has returned for the Fall 2012 edition. At VEVLYN'S PEN, we are going to do things slightly different this season. I still endeavor to provide a roundup of the best, worst and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre.

The change will be most apparent in show coverage. Where before I was doing a sort of "best of," I will tweak that this season and focus on what truly inspires me. Why the change? Simply put, I have grown weary of watching far too many collections that lack imagination because too much attention has been paid to the bottomline. If nothing inspires me, I will tell you so and tell you why. Let the games begin ...


Day 3
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, Christian Cota, Christian Siriano, Band of Outsiders, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Jill Stuart, Lacoste, L.A.M.B., Mara Hoffman, Monique Lhuillier, Porter Grey, Prabal Gurung, Robert Geller, Rafael Cennamo, Ruffian, Son Jung Wan, Tibi, Vantan Tokyo, Venexiana, Wes Gordon

NO superlatives yet.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Fall 2012 marches on and seems to have not lost themomentum set by Day 2. Aside from disclosing that she is feeling a bit out of sorts because the Venexiana show wasn’t the transportive affair of past seasons, your humble tour guide will reserve further comment about Day 3 for later. Meanwhile, take a look at the Venexiana video and enjoy the photos below.

Monique Lhuillier & Tibi
Photos by Frazer Harrision/Getty Images.

Mara Hoffman & Jill Stuart

Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

Son Jung Wan & Ruffian
Photos by Frazer Harrison and Mike Coppola/Getty Images.

Mara Hoffman & L.A.M.B.
Photos by Frazer Harrison and Chelsea Lauren/Getty Images.

Lacoste & Herve Leger by Max Azria
Photos by Mike Coppola and Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

On Deck today, Day 4: Anna Francesca, Carmen Marc Valvo, Custo Barcelona, Danielle Kallmeyer, Designer's Premier, Diane von Furstenberg, Derek Lam, DKNY, Edun, Eighteenth, Falguni & Shane Peacock, Geoffrey Mac, Imitation, Jeremy Laing, Joy Cioci, Kevork Kiledjian, Lela Rose, Lorena Sarbu, Mathieu Mirano, Simon Spurr, Thakoon, Tracy Reese, Zac Posen, Timo Weiland, Tommy Hilfiger, Y-3

Visit http://http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ to learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, including show information and videos.

Day 1 NYFW: Not Boring. It's Beautiful!

Knit turtleneck and satin-faced organza tulip skirt from the Christian Siriano Fall 2011 collection. Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

HEAD’S UP: It’s now a tradition at VEVLYN’S PEN. The plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. This go round Yours Truly has a wingwoman in the person of Dame Francesca Simon. Even with two of us, though, we really, really can’t be everywhere. But we will be where something is happening and will keep you in the loop. Drum roll, please …

Day 1
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Nicholas K, Porter Grey, BCBGMAXAZRIA, Richard Chai, Duckie Brown, Luca Luca, Mara Hoffman, Tadashi Shoji, Eva Minge, Christian Siriano, W Hotels Global Glam, Irina Shabayeva

BY FRANCESCA SIMON

BEST IN SHOW – Perusing the Christian Siriano run of show – the program that gives descriptions of the pieces in a designer’s collection, as well as credits and sometimes his/her inspiration – I counted the word “black” 37 times. I was not pleased! It was one of the last shows of the night of the first day of an eight-day fashion frenzy. I was already about to “black out” from lack of food and a deep need for sleep. This would surely do it, I thought. Boy was I wrong!

The show was sheer pleasure – literally. Weaving tweed and knit into an interesting interplay of textures, CS commenced with classically detailed jackets – from doubled-breasted to blazer to zippered. Atop sheer chiffon asymmetrical skirts, the jackets worked magic. And thus began an interplay of the light and shadow within the black.

For Fall 2011, Christian Siriano likes heavy jackets over light, sheer skirts.

CS achieved a balance of repose and restlessness by interspersing heavy jackets with shawl, exaggerated batwing and asymmetrical collars paired with flirty, ruffle-bottomed, billowing skirts. Occasionally, he played it straight, bringing the classic men’s trousers into feminine space; sometimes cuffing them, other times giving them wide legs with oversized cuffs. Trouser fabrics veered from wool to silk crepe and were paired with luxurious cashmere.

The black theme continued with a parade of beautiful, feminine ladies in black. A billowing satin-faced organza tulip skirt. A boucle backless trumpet gown. A silk organza draped cocktail dress. But the textures, weight, movement, and moments accentuated their different shades. It was a sea of black, and a lovely sea it was.

When the color came – in mauve and moss – so satisfactory was the black that the former didn’t make much of an impact. The silk chiffon short sleeve blouse and silk organza ruffled ball gown skirt was the last piece in the show – the skirt looked like a chenille blanket – was the only let down. It was quickly forgotten, though, as raucous applause awaited the man of the hour.

BEST INTERPRETATION OF A VISION –
“ … The art of birds dancing in rhythmic harmony, branches and moss intertwining, light and shadows reflected in water — all these works of nature together emoting a spiritual transcendence, balance and tranquility ...”

With the words of Xiao Lei as his guiding message, Tadashi Shojo hit the mark on his mission to combine a sense of transcendence with the beauty of nature. He set the tone for this Far East-inspired ideal with ethereal music that was relaxing and sensual.

One of the more down-to-earth creations from the Tadashi Shoji Fall 2011 collection.

Emerging from a painted background of blue sky filled with fluffy white clouds, TS’ models, translucent in a pale makeup and straight hair, were almost angelic.

They breezed down the runway in wool jersey and lace creations trimmed in feathers, evoking the imagery of birds. TS’ extensive use of chiffon in vibrant colors of sun and sea, green fields of purple flowers and garden beds of begonias indeed brought a feeling of transcendence. Hand-cut organza floral designs added dimension to diaphanous gowns.

While TS’ vision exists in a realm up in and near the clouds, he managed to also beam it down to earth – if only briefly – bringing to his aesthetic a retail aspect. He worked with stretch wool jersey and silk crepe to create a body of dresses — one-shoulder, off shoulder, and halter — and ensembles with which the average consumer can identify. Of note was a washed silk crepe halter top paired with a black-draped pencil skirt.

A stunning, strapless blue-fringe dress was body-hugging, yet free-flowing with the fringe implying a rippling water effect. In this little affair, one can easily imagine a girl or woman about town dancing the night away in the arms of a mysterious strange or on a warm spring night sipping Champagne on the rooftop of some urban oasis. Ahhh, fantasy and fashion! - By Francesca Simon

BEST USE OF COLOR –
If the first day of Fashion Week is any indication, red is going to be an It color for fall. While a number of designers ventured into the zone, it was BCBGMaxAzria who came away with the most touches. For fall, he’s keeping things simple.

The model, Ajak, sporting a hot 'do and an apricot/smoke silk/linen iridescent stripe sack dress from the Fall 2011 collection of Richard Chai.

The most visible manifestation of this is the white turtleneck body suit underneath skirts and dresses. It is further informed by voluminous silhouettes that could be rendered dowdy in some hands. Max deftly delivers sophistication along with his simplicity. For spring he showed many body-skimming looks, particularly a fetching parade of little white dresses.

What saves these autumn dresses and skirts from appearing shapeless are low-slung belts, panels at the hip and thin fabric strips that bring to mind Normandy architecture. Here to save the day, too, is color-blocking. It is in the latter that the red really stands out – particularly against b&w and white and navy. Imagine a portrait bearing the images of several people, but one in particular commands the attention. That is the precise effect of the red.

Red is not only an accent, but the main color in a couple of frocks such as a silk crepe dress. It is eye-catching, supported by the white bodysuit with black cuffs, taupe belt, light gray boot and light gray clutch. – By Yours Truly, Vevlyn Wright

BEST HAIR (TIE) – Here one is sitting in the Richard Chai “Love” show a little tired and trying to keep both eyes open. The clothes are not boring but neither are they beckoning. Sure, the series – wing coat, blazer, military coat et al. – in charcoal degrade stripe is serviceable. Further, the funnel neck sweater will keep the neck warm on a day when the mercury is hovering in the mod-20s. They do fold nicely, don’t they. Moreover, while some of the pleating is a little undisciplined, there is something to admire in the different texture pairings i.e., georgette and merino wool. Yet one is about to catnap – until.

The fall 2011 collection of Irina Shabayeva is informed by cool hair and hot colors.

Behold a goddess got-up in an apricot/smoke silk/linen iridescent stripe sack dress. Was this what it was like in the presence of the Queen of Sheba? It may be a sack dress but this is a queen. Her highness aka Ajak is rockin’ a close-cropped afro – in platinum blond. It is “subtle loud.” To use another word, it is also the highlight of the show ...

Meanwhile, “Project Runway” alums are representin’ at Fashion Week. There’s Christian S., of course. Malan Breton is showing on the last day. And here is Irina Shabayeva closing out the first day. For fall, she is inspired by fire and ice. In her first official Fashion Week collection, IS uses red, black and white to evoke the various images of fire& ice that are capturing her imagination. Some silhouettes, for instance, the white jacket with little latticework-like panels on front are amorphous and unwieldy like a wild fire. Others in gray are embellished with paillettes to evoke both the various dimensions of an ice cube, as well as black ice. While there are places where IS over uses a theme – the latticework on a black dress – it is a clever collection and a continuing manifestation of the great promise that she showed on “PR.”

Look to the head, though, for an especially clever touch in the fire&ice show. With or without the mean black brim, the models’ hair is parted on the side and pulled back into a chignon. Where the hair is parted on the side it is also dressed in a cornrow. It’s a great look and a cool head. A head at such a temperature can be achieved with ice, no? And when things get hot – if there is, say, a fire, cooler heads really must prevail, no? – By Yours Truly, Vevlyn Wright

More from Day 1 shortly. Meanwhile see shows/highlights: http://www.mbfashionweek.com/

Strange, Wonderful, Bizarre & Funny Start

Supermodel Ellen DeGeneres, above, doing her thing at Richie Rich. Below in descending order, a pretty model in a pretty dress with a lipstick malfunction at Farah Angsana; Kate Ciepluch as a good model for wearing lace at Mara Hoffman, and Yours Truly and Apollonia catching up in Verrier's urban oasis. Top two photos from Getty Images; bottom two by Yours Truly.

Just like last time, the plan each day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is to give a roundup of the best (and worse where applicable) and most interesting Yours Truly witnesses, from shows to trends to sightings to the rather unusual/bizarre. Mind, this won’t be a comprehensive list simply because I can’t be everywhere. But depend on it, I’ll do my best. Drum roll, please …

Day 1 cont'd.
(SOME of the players at the tents and elsewhere): Nicholas K, "Project Runway," Richard Chai, Ruffian, Anne Bowen, Bensoni, Mara Hoffman, Candela, Concept Korea, Christian Siriano, Farah Angsana, Verrier, Daniel Vosovic, Richie Rich)

BEST IN SHOW
In her updo are flowers. On her face pancake-white makeup. Her blond eyelashes go on forever. She walks serenely down the runway in a salmon mini shift in organza with a lace back and organza train that ties in front into a passel of sashes.

See her there, a white veil pulled away from her face. Is that a black leather bustier over a sheer taupe tank? Her salmon harem pants are tapered from knee to ankle.

Here's a pink silk blouse with an enormous bow at the neck and three-quarter tulip sleeve.

It’s a strange and wonderful business that is Korean designer Lee Jean Youn’s latest collection. He was the last of the three to show under the rubric Concept Korea. He’s shopped “The Strange Wedding Ceremony”around the world, including Paris, and has received good notices. They are well-deserved.

In their unexpected get-ups the models walk ghostlike down the runway and take their place where they remain until the last model comes out. A huge screen projects their images. It’s simply arresting. No other collection on the first day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week - not even Christian Siriano in another strong turn - made such an impression.

It seems that in part LJY has deconstructed the traditional Korean costume, the full-bodied hanbok to create cropped tops, bottoms and cutaways. The collection is strange in that it is unexpected to see organza and leather hanging out together and black leather bustiers under sheer silk tops. To create the many intricate folds, bows, pins and tucks is massively difficult, yet in LJY’s hands it appears effortless. The workmanship is impressive. About the clothes is a quiet pride and dignity; they are peaceful and serene.

MOST DISTURBING MAKEUP
So many pretty after-5 dresses and gowns from Farah Angsana. Very feminine and classy. Sequins in just the right quantity and placement. What is dismaying, though, is the pink lipstick on the model with skin the color of rich, dark chocolate. Is this a minstrel show or a fashion show? The makeup person should know better. Shame!

MOST EYE-CATCHING HEADWEAR
Silver tentacles extend around the crown and over the heads of the models like rabbit ears. Others wrap around the head and shade the eyes like eyeglasses or bangs. A few wrap around the head and appear to protrude from ears. The Borg comes to mind. Meanwhile, the tentacles tap foreheads and temples in the manner of fingers on a telegraph machine. Behold, sculpture for the head. Sure to set tongues awagging at Ascot. Dreams inspired the collection of “Project Runway” Season 8 contestant Andy South. Another inspiration is statues brought to life, possibly by the tap tap tap of tentacles.

BEST PRESENTATION FORMAT
Enter the annex of the Box tent and take a glass of Champagne. Venture farther in and indulge in the serenity of a space dotted with trees, hydrangeas and wild flowers. Allow upbeat tunes from the Great American Songbook to wash away the stresses of the day. Breathe in. Now out. Observe the beautiful, young women strategically placed around the area, standing atop low pedestals, complementing the greenery. They are well-dressed in the pieces that comprise the 2011 collection of Verrier. Yes, lovely. “It’s a garden party” the designer says of the inspiration for her show. “We decided to make it an urban garden party. I was thinking about “The Great Gatsby.” We wanted to make it really nice and welcoming. We even brought the flowers.”

BEST OPENER
After keeping his guests waiting for his Popluxe show, Richie Rich calmed them down with ballerinas and a little Vivaldi. Once the lights went down and up, out came a few primas. One was packing a violin, while another was at the keyboards. And others pirouetted hither and yon. If that didn’t smooth over ruffled feathers and frayed nerves, the dominatrices would surely have slapped someone on the butt.

BEST RUNWAY SCOWL
Very special guest star Ellen DeGeneres channeling her countenenace from CoverGirl’s Simply Ageless Foundation commercial. Therein she muses that it should be no wonder that models look so mad because they are wearing expensive foundation - unlike you know who. What can one say? EG, tricked out in a miniature hat, white seersucker suit w/colored Lichtenstein-esque T underneath, brought it. The crowd erupted into applause and laughter and went near-ballistic when she was joined by RR.

BEST EXPOSURE OF FLESH WHILE LOOKING CLASSY, NOT TRASHY
She’s being photographed near the models in Mara Hoffman’s presentation at Pier 59. Clearly, she is not one of them, though she can be a model. What gives Kate Ciepluch away is that she is not got up in one of the laidback, devil-may-care “Military Gone Native” affairs that informs the collection. The buyer for Shopbop does Victorialand proud in the label’s black lace shirt. Underneath she sports a black bra, flat tummy and no muffin top. Her bottom is well covered by gray, drawstring shorts. She’s kicking it in a gray pump with a sensible heel. It’s not too fat, too thin, too high or too low. It’s just right. And so is she.


BACK TO THE FUTURE
I’m doing lightweight eavesdropping on a rather long interview Ashleigh Verrier is giving a reporter from an outfit called Fashion News Live. The interviewer is peppering her with interesting questions about her creative process. The designer is fully engaged and giving thoughtful answers. It makes waiting a little less painful.

After I lock down my interview, I complement the interviewer on her questions. She thanks me profusely. "I didn’t know whether I was asking good questions or not,” she confides.

I assure her that she did a fine job. A conversation ensues; introductions are made.

“I know an Apollonia,” I say when she tells me her name.

“I am Apollonia,” she says.

“You are Apollonia from “Purple Rain;” you don’t look like yourself,” blurts I before I can stifle myself.

“That was 25 years ago,” she reminds me.

And so it has been. The hair is different - smaller/shorter, more polished. The face seems somewhat familiar; perhaps it has been refreshed. In my mind she was a woman around 5’7” instead of the 5 feet plus a little change (in heels) looking up at me (in heels). Common sense should have told me that she must be shortish to be cast opposite Prince, with whom she's out of touch. Only her eyes seem familiar.

After our little reunion, I cross paths with Verrier again and inquire whether she knew who was interviewing her. She did not. “Really,” she said trying to wrap her brain around that piece of information. “That’s intense.”

And what has Apollonia been up to besides fashion journalism?

“I’ve been doing a lot of mentoring - mentoring young actors and doing some producing.”

In the works on the production side is “Food and the Single Guy,” an upcoming Bravo show. “It's the day in the life of a chef,” she explains.

Yummy.