Players of Day 2: Anzevino Getty, Calvin Klein Collection, Coach, Duckie Brown, Engineered for Motion, Malan Breton, N. Hoolywood, Nick Graham, Ovadia & Sons, Public School, Rag & Bone, Rochambeau, Robert Geller, Shinola Detroit, Thaddeus O’Neil, Thom Browne,
Timo Weiland, Todd Snyder
WHILE the world has been going about its business, U.S. menswear has quietly come a long way, baby. From the poles of the heavily tailored suit and the extremely relaxed weekend warrior uniform of polo-type shirt, capri shorts and jeans.
On Day 2 of New York Fashion Week: Men's S/S16, this is abundantly apparent. There is a large swath and it is being claimed by at least two camps – both breaking out of the aforesaid claustrophobic box: those revising the traditional mode and those blurring lines.
Both alt-aesthetics are relaxed, not either too-buttoned up or too sloppy. The silhouette is a balance of slightly tapered and slightly deconstructed. Polished. Accessible. Credible. Achievable Aspiration.
Those revisionists present a post-metrosexual, digital-age male who may turn up in Public School’s elongated blazer and over-the-knee shorts in white. He could live in Peoria. Or Chicago.
Thaddeus O'Neil S/S16. Photo by Monet Lucki.
The point is, he is comfortable in his skin. Consequently, he can bear (and bare) Rochambeau’s silver sleeveless jacket over black shirt and black tapered pants. Similarly, he will boldly go to a black tie gala in Nick Graham’s gray metallic tuxedo …
RuPaul, in defense of drag queens, cross-dressing and perhaps marriage equality, once quipped that the U.S. constitution was signed by men who wore wigs. True that.
One was reminded of this, too, yesterday. Judging by the wares of some, men – straight men – will soon be wearing tights again. This is mostly metaphor but a bit literal, as well.
These designers are producing mashups of masculine and feminine. Can it be called mascunine or femiline? Incidentally, this is not a Boyfriend Jacket moment. The garments under discussion are androgynous.
Sometimes, blazers and light jackets are sufficiently laidback to pass for oversized blouses and tunics (Robert Geller). Shorts may be prettied up with girly prints; colors and fabrics take a page from women’s wear (see Thaddeus O’Neil). Shirts have characteristics that are feminine-forward (chiffon and organza at Duckie Brown).
Duckie Brown S/S2016. Photo courtesy of Duckie Brown.
Men, particularly straight men, have an opportunity here to dress with some flava without generating whispers about their sexuality if that is a concern.
One hopes that they can see the possibilities at, say, Anzevino Getty.
On deck today, Day 3: Alexander Plokhov, Asaf Ganot, Billy Reid, Coach, Greg Lauren, Gypsy Sport, Jeffrey Rudes, John Elliott + Co., Loris Diran, Michael Bastian, Michael Kors, Nautica, Richard Chai, Theory, Thorsun, Tim Coppens, Tommy Hilfiger¸ Zachary Prell
Visit http://www.cfda.com/programs/new-york-mens-week to learn more about New York Fashion Week: Men’s, including shows and show times.