Thursday, July 16, 2015

NYFW: Men's Day 3: At Gypsy Sport, It's All in There — Possibly, the Kitchen Sink, Too

Gyspy Sport S/S16. Photos by Yours Truly.

Players of Day 3: Alexander Plokhov, Asaf Ganot, Billy Reid, Coach, Greg Lauren, Gypsy Sport, Jeffrey Rudes, John Elliott + Co., Loris Diran, Michael Bastian, Michael Kors, Nautica, Richard Chai, Theory, Thorsun, Tim Coppens, Tommy Hilfiger¸ Zachary Prell

RUMMAGE through the pile of clothes that the family is donating to Goodwill. Grab a handful. Tear them apart. Sew them back together in a stream of consciousness sort of way. Now, stand back and observe your handywork.

Because you have just created a Gypsy Sport collection.

It is day three of the maiden voyage of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and U.S. menswear designers continue to emphasize that far more can be done for men than erecting a suit or essentially T-shirts and jeans. (

In the case of streetwear label Gypsy Sport, designers Los Angeleno Rio Uribe and New Yorker Jerome Williams, for S/S16 have created tunics, dresses, pants, shirts blouses and so forth from found objects, including basketball wear, ropes, netting, curtains, old jeans and whatnots …

Let’s break it down a bit. A “skirt” made of netting with a yellow waistband constructed of an indeterminate material has interesting possibilities. Not feeling the Happy Face tanks and that sky blue dress tank poured over a blue-hooded shirt ensemble. All are baring a logo that could look like a hat.

The wide-legged patchwork pants with huge crème front pockets have verve. The cowrie shell mouthpiece is … cheeky. It can be repurposed.

The hats seem a bit ordinary when judging by the standards of those that have come before from this emerging label, which has been aided colossally by a collaboration with DKNY and work on a “Hunger Games” movie.

The most accessible ensemble, at least for those outside of Gypsy Sports club-kid/underground culture demographic, is the white T-shirt (baring that hat logo thing-ey), with tassels of cowrie shell and rope, black shorts with white stripe at hem, necklace of an indeterminate material and cowrie shells and brown cap. It looks quite cool. In general at Gypsy Sport, the parts are greater than the whole.

Speaking of cool and of more “normal,” Nautica. Simply put, on the run of show, “Our 2016 men’s swim collection is inspired by the sea, designed in the city.” The city is New York.

The New York connection is most easily discerned. Some of the trunks feature New York scenes or scenes that suggest New York. A navy and white shawl-neck cardigan, for example, seems to evoke both the streets of New York and its tall buildings, snaking along the ground and toward the sky.

Greg Lauren goes exploring for S/S2016, possibly near a desert town. Hence, the eye-catching patchwork poncho made from tenting and Moroccan blanket, for instance. At night, the poncho can go over a simple, white T-shirt. GL’s man may also be attending a white party during his travels, and there is much from which to choose. (See video above)

Nautica S/S16.

The same can be said of the collection of tunics, parkas, shirts and various strata of lounge pants with both minimal and sundry details and accents. Wherever he goes, whatever he does, the GL man will be wearing comfortable (especially pants) stylish pieces in linen, cotton, fleece, etc. The colors will be simple: mostly b&w, abetted by gray, taupe and occasions of striped navy.

On deck today, Last Day, Day 4: Aquatalia, Coach, Capsule, Craft Atlantic, deTroit, Edmund Ooi, Franco Lacosta, Hickey Freeman, J. Lindeberg, John Varvatos, Lucio Castro, Orley, Park & Ronen, Perry Ellis, Polo Ralph Lauren, Ricardo Seco, Sergio Davila, Siki Im

Visit to learn more about New York Fashion Week: Men’s, including shows and show times.

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