Day 2 NYFWM Spring 2017: Gypsy Sport Acquires More Sheen But Retains Plenty of Grit; Loris Diran Shows a Soft, Sensitive Side That Is All Man ...

From the Gypsy Sport S/S17 collection. Photo by VW.

BY VW

The players of Day 2: Joseph Abboud, New Republic by Mark McNairy, Tim Coppens, Garciavalez, Stampd, Simon Miller, Michael Kors, EFM, Loris Diran, Robert Geller, N-P-Elliott, Carlos Campos, Gypsy Sport, N. Hoolywood, Cadet, Brett Johnson, Ovadia & Sons

FETCHING. That is a term that it is surprising to attach to a Gypsy Sport creation. Yet, there it is.

Day 2 of New York Fashion Week: Men's S/S 2017 was one that did fashion proud. It commenced with the elegance and masterliness of Joseph Abboud.

Just after midday, Loris Diran, pondering South America, delivered sensitivity, sensuality, seductiveness and sexiness. The color palette is heavy on shades of gray with black and white areas, as well as a touch of teal.

Women can take many of the ensembles under serious considerstion. Indeed, the collection shows its feminine side, yet is utterly masculine.

Several jackets - in this collection they are mainly tapered at the waist and all hip length - are curved, shawl-like, at the closure. A black linen suit (gray pocket flaps and lapels, skinny pants) throws over a shirt in favor of a light gray, v-neck, knee-length tunic. Two collarless maxi jackets in teal and taupe are cleverly convertible. Undo the zipper and behold a short jacket that rests at the waist.

From the Gypsy Sport S/S17 collection. Photo by VW.

At teatime however, Gypsy Sport was served in large portions. The design duo behind the label takes the day in this humble opinion. The schtick of streetwear informed by found objects, many of them of the basketball uniform variety, has acquired an extra coat of polish without losing the razor-sharp edges (Thank you, Anna Wintour)?

For S/S17, two words: lace, fringe. These two appear on just about everything that cannot be nailed down. The effect: fanciful, ingenious, thoughtful, fetching. Cases in point, the sleeveless canary yellow jersey with fringe at the hem. The netted shirts with fringe.

Some words to the uninitiated: Gypsy Sport caters to an uber-cool, underground culture. It is not for most everybody. However, if conventional types can deconstruct the ensembles, it becomes possible to begin to wrap the brain around this bit of trigonometry.

In the simply adorable category are the blue shorts with yellow pockets and lace-trimmed boxers underneath. One of the most accessible ensembles is the canary yellow ribbed blouse with lace sleeves and blue-multi scarf transformed into an assymetrical skirt.

From the Loris Diran S/S17 collection. Photo by VW.

In executing a gimmick that works, the presentation at Cadillac House was a runway show presented in a continuous loop. In short, for nearly an hour the diverse group of models walked the runway over and over and over again.

Smartly done, because one look is insufficient to understand or appreciate the genius of Gypsy Sport.

On deck today, Day 3: Passavant and Lee, Nick Graham, Kenneth Ning, John Elliott, Assembly New York, Deveaux, Rochambeau, Matiere, Nautica, Thaddeus O'Neil, Tommy Hilfiger, Feng Chen Wang, Zachary Prell, Thorsun, C.P. Company

Visit http://www.cfda.com/programs/new-york-mens-week to learn more about New York Fashion Week: Men’s, including shows and show times.

NYFW: Men's Day 3: At Gypsy Sport, It's All in There — Possibly, the Kitchen Sink, Too

Gyspy Sport S/S16. Photos by Yours Truly.

Players of Day 3: Alexander Plokhov, Asaf Ganot, Billy Reid, Coach, Greg Lauren, Gypsy Sport, Jeffrey Rudes, John Elliott + Co., Loris Diran, Michael Bastian, Michael Kors, Nautica, Richard Chai, Theory, Thorsun, Tim Coppens, Tommy Hilfiger¸ Zachary Prell

RUMMAGE through the pile of clothes that the family is donating to Goodwill. Grab a handful. Tear them apart. Sew them back together in a stream of consciousness sort of way. Now, stand back and observe your handywork.

Because you have just created a Gypsy Sport collection.

It is day three of the maiden voyage of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and U.S. menswear designers continue to emphasize that far more can be done for men than erecting a suit or essentially T-shirts and jeans. (http://www.bit.ly/1OgqJA8).

In the case of streetwear label Gypsy Sport, designers Los Angeleno Rio Uribe and New Yorker Jerome Williams, for S/S16 have created tunics, dresses, pants, shirts blouses and so forth from found objects, including basketball wear, ropes, netting, curtains, old jeans and whatnots …

Let’s break it down a bit. A “skirt” made of netting with a yellow waistband constructed of an indeterminate material has interesting possibilities. Not feeling the Happy Face tanks and that sky blue dress tank poured over a blue-hooded shirt ensemble. All are baring a logo that could look like a hat.

The wide-legged patchwork pants with huge crème front pockets have verve. The cowrie shell mouthpiece is … cheeky. It can be repurposed.

The hats seem a bit ordinary when judging by the standards of those that have come before from this emerging label, which has been aided colossally by a collaboration with DKNY and work on a “Hunger Games” movie.

The most accessible ensemble, at least for those outside of Gypsy Sports club-kid/underground culture demographic, is the white T-shirt (baring that hat logo thing-ey), with tassels of cowrie shell and rope, black shorts with white stripe at hem, necklace of an indeterminate material and cowrie shells and brown cap. It looks quite cool. In general at Gypsy Sport, the parts are greater than the whole.

Speaking of cool and of more “normal,” Nautica. Simply put, on the run of show, “Our 2016 men’s swim collection is inspired by the sea, designed in the city.” The city is New York.

The New York connection is most easily discerned. Some of the trunks feature New York scenes or scenes that suggest New York. A navy and white shawl-neck cardigan, for example, seems to evoke both the streets of New York and its tall buildings, snaking along the ground and toward the sky.

Greg Lauren goes exploring for S/S2016, possibly near a desert town. Hence, the eye-catching patchwork poncho made from tenting and Moroccan blanket, for instance. At night, the poncho can go over a simple, white T-shirt. GL’s man may also be attending a white party during his travels, and there is much from which to choose. (See video above)

Nautica S/S16.

The same can be said of the collection of tunics, parkas, shirts and various strata of lounge pants with both minimal and sundry details and accents. Wherever he goes, whatever he does, the GL man will be wearing comfortable (especially pants) stylish pieces in linen, cotton, fleece, etc. The colors will be simple: mostly b&w, abetted by gray, taupe and occasions of striped navy.

On deck today, Last Day, Day 4: Aquatalia, Coach, Capsule, Craft Atlantic, deTroit, Edmund Ooi, Franco Lacosta, Hickey Freeman, J. Lindeberg, John Varvatos, Lucio Castro, Orley, Park & Ronen, Perry Ellis, Polo Ralph Lauren, Ricardo Seco, Sergio Davila, Siki Im

Visit http://www.cfda.com/programs/new-york-mens-week to learn more about New York Fashion Week: Men’s, including shows and show times.