Wednesday, July 13, 2016

Day 2 NYFWM Spring 2017: Gypsy Sport Acquires More Sheen But Retains Plenty of Grit; Loris Diran Shows a Soft, Sensitive Side That Is All Man ...

From the Gypsy Sport S/S17 collection. Photo by VW.


The players of Day 2: Joseph Abboud, New Republic by Mark McNairy, Tim Coppens, Garciavalez, Stampd, Simon Miller, Michael Kors, EFM, Loris Diran, Robert Geller, N-P-Elliott, Carlos Campos, Gypsy Sport, N. Hoolywood, Cadet, Brett Johnson, Ovadia & Sons

That is a term that it is surprising to attach to a Gypsy Sport creation. Yet, there it is.

Day 2 of New York Fashion Week: Men's S/S 2017 was one that did fashion proud. It commenced with the elegance and masterliness of Joseph Abboud.

Just after midday, Loris Diran, pondering South America, delivered sensitivity, sensuality, seductiveness and sexiness. The color palette is heavy on shades of gray with black and white areas, as well as a touch of teal.

Women can take many of the ensembles under serious considerstion. Indeed, the collection shows its feminine side, yet is utterly masculine.

Several jackets - in this collection they are mainly tapered at the waist and all hip length - are curved, shawl-like, at the closure. A black linen suit (gray pocket flaps and lapels, skinny pants) throws over a shirt in favor of a light gray, v-neck, knee-length tunic. Two collarless maxi jackets in teal and taupe are cleverly convertible. Undo the zipper and behold a short jacket that rests at the waist.

From the Gypsy Sport S/S17 collection. Photo by VW.

At teatime however, Gypsy Sport was served in large portions. The design duo behind the label takes the day in this humble opinion. The schtick of streetwear informed by found objects, many of them of the basketball uniform variety, has acquired an extra coat of polish without losing the razor-sharp edges (Thank you, Anna Wintour)?

For S/S17, two words: lace, fringe. These two appear on just about everything that cannot be nailed down. The effect: fanciful, ingenious, thoughtful, fetching. Cases in point, the sleeveless canary yellow jersey with fringe at the hem. The netted shirts with fringe.

Some words to the uninitiated: Gypsy Sport caters to an uber-cool, underground culture. It is not for most everybody. However, if conventional types can deconstruct the ensembles, it becomes possible to begin to wrap the brain around this bit of trigonometry.

In the simply adorable category are the blue shorts with yellow pockets and lace-trimmed boxers underneath. One of the most accessible ensembles is the canary yellow ribbed blouse with lace sleeves and blue-multi scarf transformed into an assymetrical skirt.

From the Loris Diran S/S17 collection. Photo by VW.

In executing a gimmick that works, the presentation at Cadillac House was a runway show presented in a continuous loop. In short, for nearly an hour the diverse group of models walked the runway over and over and over again.

Smartly done, because one look is insufficient to understand or appreciate the genius of Gypsy Sport.

On deck today, Day 3: Passavant and Lee, Nick Graham, Kenneth Ning, John Elliott, Assembly New York, Deveaux, Rochambeau, Matiere, Nautica, Thaddeus O'Neil, Tommy Hilfiger, Feng Chen Wang, Zachary Prell, Thorsun, C.P. Company

Visit to learn more about New York Fashion Week: Men’s, including shows and show times.

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